Goldshot Ron

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About Goldshot Ron

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  • Location
    Southern California

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles and tack
  • Interested in learning about
    improving leather working skills
  • How did you find
    search on web
  1. N.Porter Saddle

    I didn't find any card. There was a serial number behind the cantle on the near side. The seat is only 12 inches, yet the stirrup fenders are 19 inches long; so it isn't a kids saddle. The fleece was in good condition for the saddle's possible age. I only repaired and replaced what was critical for safety and to keep the customer's cost down. It's a nice and strong saddle, too bad the seat is so small. Also, does anyone know what the purpose of the left hand strap on the fork was for? Ron
  2. Recently received this N.Porter saddle to clean and repair. The leather was in good condition, and the saddle was a pleasure to repair. Can anyone identify the possible age of the saddle? There are some construction designs that are similar to those found in Stohlman's Encyclopedia of Saddle Making. The saddle tooling was also unique. Ron
  3. Carving, what am I doing wrong?

    What is the surface that you are using on which to place your leather? Wood or stone? You haven't shown your tooling surface. The mallet or hammer that you use is also important. Too light and it becomes too much work; too heavy, and your impressions will be too deep. It appears that you are letting the stamp bounce on the leather. As mentioned already, your beveling should not appear as individual blows, but as a smooth line where your tool marks fade into each other. Since your stamps aren't very expensive, go ahead and modify them. I've thrown out a lot of old Craft Japan stamps because I filed them down too much; but by doing this, it gives you a better understanding of how stamps are designed, and different impressions you can make by just playing around with just one or two stamps. Good luck, Ron
  4. My first floral design

    You have a couple things going for you. Ferg mentioned background, and I agree with him that you have done a good job with having about the right amount of background filler. Your flow is good, and the balance looks good. I'm going to make two comments: one, your flowers and leaves seem to be just second thoughts. Your wavy leaf on the right is how your other two leaves should appear. It's center stem is part of your overall design. The heart shaped leaves do not seem to be connected to the stem like you wavy leaf. Also, your flowers aren't connected with a bulb or stem. They are just there. One last comment (and I know I said two things), if you get a French curve, you'll make better curved lines with your design. Believe me, it's hard to transfer your image to leather if you aren't working with nice flowing lines to begin with. Good work, Ron
  5. Paul, First, is the fleece real sheep skin or imitation. Second, check for staples holding pieces onto tree; if so, it's factory made. Third, if it passes the first two tests: real fleece, not stapled, then check the bars under the left stirrup leather for a tree maker's mark (some makers put their mark or label here). Fourth, what type of screws have been used: phillips head or slotted oval. Older saddles would use slotted oval, and maybe brass, no stainless steel nor fancy star heads. Check stirrup leathers for their adjustment buckles. If they are laced, this could indicate an older saddle, maybe 1940s or older. However, since the rigging is inskirt, and the weight is heavy, I tend to think that the saddle isn't antique worthy. If the stirrups are original, they appear to be heavy roper style stirrups that came out maybe in the 1960s. Please keep us informed of your findings. Ron
  6. Latest Iphone case patterns

    Like Tom, I have made wooden blocks to mold my leather around. After making a case, it can be stretched by wetting the case and adding an 8/9oz. piece to the mold and remolding to fit the phone. One problem you'll find when making a case for someone, they neglect to tell you that they have a protection trim around their phone. Always look and measure the phone yourself, don't count on the customer's figure being correct. Ron
  7. Tin Seat Strainer

    Here's one tip if you haven't tried it yet; make angled cuts between the nail holes along the bars. The cuts should be uniform in length and distance between each other. The cut would be from the edge of the strainer, and no further than the edge of the bar (approximately 3/4 to 1 inch). Cuts don't have to be made along the cantle section. This allows the strainer edge to conform to the bars without hammering the hell out of the center seat part of the strainer. You shouldn't be hammering the plate so hard that you break a mallet. Also, use an anvil to help shape the plate, not your tree. I have a piece of train rail for my anvil. Also, make sure that the bottom of the strainer is not so flat that it lies on the horse's spine, or pushes the pad down causing a pressure point along the back. Everyone lays the ground seat pieces differently over the strainer, so remember that the leather primarily forms the seat, not the metal strainer. Hope this helps, Ron
  8. Belt holes...size

    Years ago I purchased a CS Osborn oval punch. It was the smallest they made. Because of the bevel of the punch, the hole is larger than ideal. Who makes oval punches that would make a nice hole? Ron
  9. PDF martingale breast collar

    Do whatever you have to do to make it work.
  10. PDF martingale breast collar

    Attached are plans and instructions. Note that the radius of the arch is 4.5 inches. This may vary depending on the horse, but fits a 16 hand quarter horse mare (big girl). Photo 1 - collar, photo 2 center strap to cinch, photo 3 is all parts except the snap and buckle at cinch center dee. Chaff guard in optional.
  11. PDF martingale breast collar

    I can post a jpeg of the pattern, and the instructions. But, a pdf version is beyond my computer skills. Ron
  12. PDF martingale breast collar

    Are you looking for something like this photo.
  13. Season 4 in my saddle

    Ken, I don't know your age, nor the area where you were raised; but being raised in Southern California, most of the people that I've met have been mainly recreational riders. They don't need heavy saddles, and the only jerking down that they do is on the cinch. In the last 65 years, I've met some ranch riders that had to rope a steer for doctoring, and young fellows that like to play cowboy (even those young fellows have grown up and use chutes more and more). I've worked with packers that tow mule strings, and they use lighter saddles, especially in the Eastern Sierras where less weight is good. A well built saddle doesn't have to be 40+ pounds. As a Back Country Horseman member, I see the aging of America when it comes to horse people. As we age that old heavy saddle has to give way to lighter saddles if we are still to enjoy the horse experience. I think the experience that you describe is that of people who make their living on horseback. Running cows doesn't have to be on horseback any longer. Heck, in my area, there's a family that have been running cows for over 125 years. One of the daughters rides her mountain bike to check on the stock (through areas where only a mtn. goat can go). I just hope horses stay around a little longer, even if people are using endurance saddles. People can still buy good roping saddles, but I think the trend is toward lighter and more comfortable recreational saddles. Ron
  14. Wade Tree Help

    Ryan, Do you want a bronc saddle or a working saddle? I've read the replies to your tree questions; however, I keep wondering: "what kind of saddle do you want to build?" Do you want a ranch, roping, trail, pleasure, mounted shooting, or reining/penning style saddle. Forward swing is okay for some events, and there are always people that want a lot of forward swing; but that doesn't mean that it is the correct way to ride. When laying out your stirrup leather slots, you have to take into account your rigging placement and rider BALANCE. When you throw your legs forward, you are placing yourself off balance; thus, your body moves backward. Being young you may have the strength to adjust and hang on, but wait till you age. Balance will be your friend when you're in your 60's. I've added some lines to your photo to show you that moving your stirrup leathers forward affect how you'll place your rigging plates. My drawings show roughly a flatplate design. You can see that if you cut into your front rigging position, you weaken the area that supports the front ring. Forward swing can be increased with lighter leather for the rigging rings, but is this what you want? Blue line is rigging plate. Yellow line is the one you drew. and the green line is where the forward most edge should be for the stirrup leather slot. As you can see, if you cut out the forward yellow line, you decrease the amount of leather supporting your ring. If you ride up and over the rigging plate, you create a lump under your leg. Take into account that the rear swell edge of the rigging plate is usually skived thinner than the front to begin with, but skiving it more to allow for forward swing weakens your plate. I suggest you do a little more research in designs, styles, and rider placement. Ron
  15. Season 4 in my saddle

    Billy, Did you ever think of carrying your rear part over to the middle of the bars and lacing both sides together in the rear. Then leave off the rear jockey, and just put a design on the rigging plates in the rear area. The more I look at your idea, the more I can see it as a way to reduce weight, yet still maintain the integrity and strength of the rigging. Just thinking outside of the box . Ron