Goldshot Ron

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About Goldshot Ron

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  • Location
    Southern California

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles and tack
  • Interested in learning about
    improving leather working skills
  • How did you find
    search on web
  1. Roping Saddle

    Joel, Missed reading your comments, and seeing your work. Haven't met anyone in the local area who does saddle work any more; but, I'll put the word out on your draw down stand. If you have any good stamps (King, Bob Beard or Hackbarth) I'd be interested. Sorry to hear you downsizing the shop. Ron PS...Randy, I agree with the other guys, dye your edges; even the chestnut skirting. You don't have to wait too long after dying to the edges. When the edge is still damp (from the dye), rubbing the edge with your cloth will quickly give you a shiny edge. Just make sure that you are not rubbing it into the undyed area.
  2. Oak Leaf Pattern

    Randy, I applaud your attempt here. It sounds funny, but filling a blank space like you are considering, allows you to practice your tooling. At the same time adding an artistic touch to your work. Now to the acorns, the empty shell adds flavor to the work. However, the sample you showed does look like an old innertube. Just draw 3 acorns, and erase the nut, then make a cut where the shell would be on the back side of the nut. One other consideration would be to make your leaves slightly larger so that they cover the convergence of the stems. This allows the viewer to use their imagination as to how the design flows. I've added a doodle that kinda shows what I'm suggesting. Ron
  3. Removing the horn from a saddle... is it possible?

    Big Horn Saddlery makes a good endurance saddle with a western look; and, there is a maker called Stonewall Saddles (located in So. California) that make a nice endurance saddle at a reasonable price. Stonewall Saddles is more likely to design a saddle specially for you. You mentioned cable rigging; I believe Freckers saddlery (in Idaho?) can make you a cable rigged saddle without a horn. However, cable rigged trees are only made by two brothers: one is called LaPorte saddle trees (out of Cheyenne, Wy.) and the other is LiteRide or Chicago Stockyard Saddle Trees. Both makers use composite trees and can install the cable when the tree is made. I personally have used a Big Horn endurance saddle for over 30 years. It has worked well with Arabs, Appys, and Walkers. It's cheap enough for you to take it to a saddle maker and have him/her to do any custom modifications you'd like, and a shop in Canada is more than likely to carry this brand. I would recommend staying away from flex-style trees. Ron
  4. First ever bag!

    Looks really good. I don't see a flaw. Your stitching looks great. Did you use a pricking iron or diamond awl? I make quite a few rounds for horse gear, and your rounded handles look excellent. I've only installed one zipper in the past, and it was a pain. Your's looks professional. Did you design the pattern for the bag? That's a talent in itself. Kudos. Ron
  5. Roping Saddle

    Looks good Randy. I thought Howard Council was a saddle maker, what is unique with this type of tree? I see a lot of improvements in your work, and it looks like you have a good feeling for what you are doing. I do have a few comments or questions: the rope strap looks awkward, the placement of the front rosettes are a little low on the jockey, your horn edge could be rubbed out more, and (I say this because I took a hit in a contest on this) your wool needs to be trimmed better to give a nicer appearance. Your stitching looks really good, and the stamping of the skirts and jockeys look uniform, and blend in quite well with the Carlos Meander border. If you haven't ordered Cary Schwarz' Cantle Binding DVD, I highly recommend doing so. It'll help improve your Cheyenne Rolls, not saying yours is bad, but I bet you are still sweating the task. Look forward to see saddle number 6. Ron
  6. Tell me about knots

    I just checked YouTube...there are plenty of "how to" videos there to watch and learn how to hand stitch leather. Also, what type of thread are you using? Are you waxing your thread prior to sewing?
  7. Tell me about knots

    You need to buy a book on sewing leather. Tandy has one that was written by Al Stohlman. Cary Schwarz has a CD for sewing, and there are a few others. You should be using the two needle method called saddle stitching or a "handy stitcher". The only knots or half hitches used to secure your stitching would be at the end of your stitching or at splicing. Also, in the instructional materials, it shows how to affix your thread to your needle. You DON'T tie a knot to affix the needle to the tread.
  8. Charlie, First buy a saddle making book for direction: Stohlman's Encyclopedia of Saddle making or Harry Adam's book to name a couple. These books will give you all the information needed to make repairs. Second, determine if this saddle is worth repairing. What is the skirting condition, is the rigging safe and does it fit your horse, how will this saddle be used (pleasure riding, kids, roping, mountain trails, etc.), and who was the maker of the saddle? These are some considerations you need to determine. Looking at your photos, tell me that this is not an expensive saddle and the materials in the saddle look dry and worn. The rigging looks like it may need some attention. Also, the stirrup leathers appear to be about 2" in width, and double tongued buckles are used for adjustments. Anyway, I am always, first, concerned about saddle safety for the horse and rider, and then what needs to be repaired. The repairs you mentioned would cost, if performed by a technician, any where from $150 to $200. If you tried to repair it, expect to spend $300 plus for materials, tools, and instructional materials. I'm not trying to dissuade you from trying and learning, but giving you more information to determine the direction in which you may want to go. Ron
  9. Saddle Bags

    Josh, Your work looks very good. The design of the bags looks well planned and functional. Your dee attached to the buckle strap is something that I haven't seen before. The binding along the top of the opening looks good and adds a touch of class. My only question would be: are the bags deep enough to hold a couple of beers? Ron
  10. Saddle #3 Completed

    Thanks Ron for the rigging photo. I used a similar rigging on a saddle last Fall. I like to use lugs for the skirts, and this design works great. I'm still riding the first saddle I made, and my flank cinch dees were set back by my lack of knowledge. I've used this saddle extensively on a large Quarter Horse mare, and she would buck occasionally. Recently I have been using a Colorado Saddlery with the flank cinch sitting more forward, and she seems to give me less trouble. I now use my first saddle on a smaller QH gelding, and I can definitely see that the FC is too far back on him. He hasn't bucked, but he is a mellow "old man's" horse. Thanks, Ron
  11. Seat Patterns

    Randy, I have found Jeremiah's method to work the best for me. I've tired Stohlman's methods, paper patterns, rubber type plate patterns, and a few other's who I don't want to name. One thing to mention in regards to the cantle ear cut when putting in a Cheyanne Roll, the ear tab needs to be lower on a Cheyanne Roll than on a straight up cantle. I've yet to see where anyone has addressed this issue. Please feel free to quote any sources on this procedure. Ron
  12. Saddle #3 Completed

    Ron, The saddle looks good. Your cantle stitching looks good. Have you tired rubbing out the awl mark? You could blame it on a Levi pocket rivet and a rowdy colt. One comment is that your flank cinch dee is wandering back some. Also, I'm waiting to see photos of your rigging under the fenders. Toot's pattern tip sounds worth trying.
  13. You've found out that the time consuming part of this job is taking off the old wool. I have not found a quick and easy way; but, the best way for me has been to slowly remove the stitching on the top side by pulling up a loop and pulling the top thread through the bobbin thread, Once you get in rhythm it's not fast, but faster than cutting the stitch and removing each little hanging piece of thread from the stitch holes prior to sewing. After removing the stitching now pull off the wool. This sounds like where you are at at this time. You have to remove the old wool so that you can properly align and re-glue the skirt filler pieces under the wool. These pieces may have come loose and will affect your stitching on the new fleece. And, prior to attaching the new fleece you need to clean and condition the skirts. I recently refleeced a custom saddle that the original maker had contact cemented the wool to the skirts. This was a real pain when removing the wool. So I recommend gluing the fleece on with rubber cement. Good luck, Ron
  14. Third Saddle

    You have to call Bob Douglas to order items. I don't have their number handy, but it should be easy to find.
  15. Third Saddle

    Ron, Your saddle looks really good. The lines are clean and the design looks balanced. It's hard to believe that this is only your third saddle. I'd like to see a photo of how you put in your rigging, and sewing in the top of the skirt assembly. A little over a year ago I broke off an awl while sewing a binding. The broken part of the needle still in the haft went through my thumb nail. It was a Bob Douglas awl, and it takes a lot to break one of his. Anyway, the reason it broke was that I was in a hurry and was not pushing straight on the needle. Luckily, fresh blood wipes off leather fairly easily. Keep up the good work. Ron