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About chevvy64

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  1. Thanks for that, it would appear most people are using it in the same way. Curious about the finish on it if used alone though, and as too how much water repellency it actually gives.
  2. Never used MPB, not even sure if it's available here in the UK. They are both waxed based finishes, that will need to be reapplied at some point (depending how heavily the item is used, and what it is exposed to). I have used the Aussie myself, spread onto warm leather, worked in with fingers, and used a hairdryer to help it soak in; then buffed with plenty of elbow grease. It gave a lovely warm lustre, rather than a glossy finish from the acrylics, which some people prefer
  3. I have used it myself, in the same way yo do; and sometimes still do; no complaints using it at all. Colour transfer can be a problem, I agree; and I use neutral shoe polish also. Thanks but I wasn't asking for a formula as such, I was trying to figure out why the resolene I bought to try had no protection at all, and wondered if this was usual. As resolene is classed as a finish I would have expected to see some sign of water resistance, but I am seeing nothing; it's "almost" as if I didn't put anything on the leather at all. From the replies it would seem as if it is being used as a seal rather than a finish?
  4. I doubt anything would go through the resolene as it is an acrylic finish, so you would need to feed/condition your leather prior to application. I doubt the resolene would be able to adhere to the leather surface once any wax is used, so Sno-seal would be the same.
  5. Hey Spartan and jackd942, thanks for your replies. So you are not actually using it as a stand alone finish, but more of a seal, which I assume is just to stop colour transfer? I would be interested to hear from anyone who does use it as a finish on it's own, it does say it provides a water resistant finish.
  6. Hey marine, and thanks. I didn't expect it to be waterproof, nothing is; but I was expecting some sort of water resistance. I have split it 50/50 as per all the posts I read regarding application. 2/3 light coats; left overnight on some pieces, and a few days on others (as the overnight pieces showed no repellency). I assumed it would bead, at least initially; but there is nothing. It is only marginally better than no finish at all, surely that can't be right?
  7. Hey all, I have poured over the forums looking for related information, but have found nothing, so hoping for a little help. I have never used Resolene as my finish, but those who use it seem to swear by it, so I decided to give it a try out of curiosity. I figured it was always good to have other options available, and so I ordered some. I read posts on the dilution, and application methods; and have followed the advise whilst trying it out. The problem I'm having is that there seems to be no water resistance at all, no beading, it just goes into the leather. I have applied by brush, sponge, and airbrush; all with the same results. I have left some test pieces overnight after 2 or 3 coats, and others I have left for a week, but it makes no difference; there is no repellency at all. I know it is useless if it has frozen, but I have no way of knowing if it was at any point before it got to me. I also have no idea what the result of it being frozen would be? Would the mixture separate at all, or would it just lose its water resistance? Anyone ever encountered this, or have any advise? Many thanks
  8. Hi there Uk peeps; a meet would be lovely but I have no transport at the moment, so unless you're up near the Manchester area it wouldn't be possible for me I hope no one minds but I would like to mention that I am currently building a website, It's a little sparse atm as being a one man band (well woman) I just don't seem to have enough hands to sort everything as quick as I would like, but it's getting there. I don't mean to hijack the post sorry, but as everyone here is from the UK it made sense to mention it here. I don't know about you lot but I was pretty miffed at paying through the nose for average quality supplies, so I decided to do some research into it and see what I could do. Some of the stuff is now going up on the website in bits and bats, and I have tried to start with the obvious stuff, and will build on that as I go. I would love to just order everything and put it up, but I'm only a little business, so it's a case of slowly does it. All the supplies are of excellent quality and definitely not like some of the flimsy things I have been sent in the past; and I think very competitively priced. If what you want isn't up there yet you only need to call or drop me a line and I will see what I can do. I can source far more than I can afford to put up at the moment, and as long as I don't have to buy hundreds of thousands I should be able to help. I also have a few other things I am currently trying to fit in some testing for, I'm pretty excited about them, and am trying to steal the time to get the testing finished I would be very grateful if you would have a look and see what you think, any feedback or recommendations on what you would like to see supplies wise is always appreciated. I can also guarantee the service is friendly and first class, cause it's me!
  9. Perhaps Renaissance wax? As you would probably clean your boots anyway, it is used by the British Museum and countless others across the world to preserve many types of items from bronze statues to paper. The items are obviously not being worn but I see no reason why it can't be used and then just reapplied from time to time, when you are polishing your boots anyway. It should do no harm at all (as far as I know) and is trusted on valuable items for preservation. It is also waterproof, plus it can be used on almost any item, so if you buy it at least you probably can use it elsewhere.
  10. Not sure if this is the same problem, but after dying (also black) I had some patches of a white crystal type substance that caused a haze on the surface. The crystal were very tiny, almost powdery, but it had a sort of sparkle you could plainly make out, if the item was tilted and it caught the crystal substance in the light. Turned out it was salts from the leather; and a good buffing took them off with no detrimental after-effects that I can see.
  11. Not had a chance to do try the hairdryer test yet as been out most of the day so I will do that tomorrow. It was bought as veg tanned tooling as I usually do so it's something I haven't seen before, I shall let you know how it goes Thanks for the input, appreciated
  12. Ooo thanks North I never thought of that, great idea Should narrow it down at least eh
  13. Hey WinterBear and thanks, I saw that when I was searching for an answer. Only thing I wondered about was the sparkly crystal type shine to the powdery look, would tht be fats and is detrimental at all in the long term?
  14. Hey all, hoping someone can advise me as to what this is? I have made a belt for a friend today, they only wanted a line border on and nothing more. I competed as requested and then dyed the belt black as they had asked. I noticed that what had looked like a clean hide, apart from having a lot of fat scaring, looked a bit pock marked and rougher after applying the dye; however I left it to dry and figured I would take a look when the belt was dry. It was left overnight and on inspection the next morning, is covered in patches of a white shiny, powdery (reflects like tiny crystals?) substance. Does anyone have any idea what this is? I have wiped it off, but I have no idea if it will return, or will be detrimental to the leather in anyway over time? Have dyed another strip to see if the same would happen and it has; it's currently drying but I can see the same substance starting to come through as it dries. Possibly it's activated, or whatever, after casing the leather, as I can see no evidence of any residue on the shoulder before wetting. Many Thanks
  15. Sorry to bump this up again guys, but I really would like to know how to set these before I go ahead and manage to break some more of them. They arn't cheap so I really can't afford to ruin them all whilst I experiment more than I already have done. There has to be a way to set these types of rivets manually, and someone else must have done some previousy? Look forward to any advice Many Thanks