Peter Darby

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About Peter Darby

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  • Location
    Manassas, VA
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, Medieval re-enactment, traditional archery,

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    medeival reproductions
  • How did you find
  1. Old World Wedding Decanter

    Great looking. I like the concrete mold idea. that would work with a lot of odd surfaces.
  2. Hedeby Quiver

    I'm in the SCA
  3. Hedeby Quiver

    I just finished my latest recreation of the Hedeby quiver (actually the Hedeby quiver is pieces of at least two quivers, perhaps even three) from the age of the Vikings. Google the title and you can see several different interpretations of how the originals may have looked. I sewed the main bag inside out like a medieval turnshoe and sewed a gusset between the main pieces. I didn't use a form because I don't think that the original used one, although I could be wrong. The top decoration encloses a leather doughnut that keeps the mouth open and ensures that over time the quiver top will not collapse. I'm now making another one for a friend and it will be much nicer looking. For example the gusset will have a rolled edge and the stitching will all be inside but I will not have to turn it. (Like a medieval turnshoe it is not necessary to sew something inside out to put the stitching inside a confined space. The beauty of the design is that unlike modern bandoleer style back quivers or side quivers, this functions equally well as a side, back or baldric style quiver. If you look at the archers on the Bayeux tapestry you will see that most wear side quivers but one seems to have a back quiver made the same as the side quivers.
  4. Cuir Bouilli (Boiled Leather) Gorget

    No, I carved it in. I didn't make a mold because it was more of an experiment than anything else. I sewed it inside out then turned it before I did the hardening.
  5. Cuir Bouilli (Boiled Leather) Gorget

    Looks good. I have played with Cuir Bouilli with mixed results and decided that like you a mold would be necessary for armour as well as knowing the amount of shrinkage. Here is a boiled leather quiver I did. I used 2/3 weight leather to see if the hardening would give it the necessary thickness and rigidity. It did but I should have made the quiver a bit longer
  6. Mjolnir

    I love it.
  7. More Archery Stuff

    I like it.
  8. Rattlesnake Knife Sheath

    Beautiful work. I looked at the first picture and thought, must be new to leatherwork. When I scrolled down I literally broke out laughing. I really like your design.
  9. Back quiver and matching arm guard

    Very very nice.
  10. Bible cover for the Wife

    Very nice.
  11. Like Gary I like the holsters but am not a fan of rivets. Somewhere on youtube is a video that shows the holding strength of rivets verses stitching. As I recall the rivets were no stronger than stitching. But it took a lot more force than you should ever encounter on normal holster use.
  12. First holster for 2018

    I am glad you like the look. I doubt if any holster is perfect for everyone. This one was based on Al Stohlman's designs in his holster book. A minimalist design but adequate. The gun is held tightly but comes into your hand easily. The trigger guard is enclosed but the design is such that the leather can not come in contact with the trigger itself. The one element of potential concern is that you can touch the trigger as you draw the revolver. However actually sticking your finger far enough into the guard as you draw to trigger an accidental discharge cannot be done inadvertently. If you have a small revolver and an adequate piece of leather, make one and try it out.
  13. Beautiful work. For me the beauty lies in the perfection of the work. Awesome molding, edges and construction.
  14. Backpack

    That is gorgeous. Use said the daubers tended to overdaub, although I think it looks great like that. A little trick I learned is to take a wool dauber and light it. Let it burn for a few seconds then use a paper towel and wipe off the burned part. It comes clean and then makes a great edge dyer. It will soak up the dye but when lightly pressed on your edges doesn't allow the edge to sink into the dauber and spread dye to the edges.