George B

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About George B

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Dover, TN
  • Interests
    Fishing, hunting, camping and spending time with the family and grandkids.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gun leather & Western saddles
  • Interested in learning about
    gun leather and western saddles
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  1. Welcome. Dover Tennessee here. George
  2. Have to agree. This place used to be a wonderful spot to gain knowledge, help and that pat on the head. These days its a lot of so called experts poking the bear and then acting like "you" are the sensitive one. I sold a total of 337 pancake holster last year alone. I made them "my" way and have had only one returned because 8 oz. leather was not heavy enough. I make a living doing this and don't have the time for all the "expert" BS that goes on here. I'm done. You all have a good life and I'll enjoy mine. Taking the shortcut off the puter and ending my membership. Bye.
  3. Been using Barge's cement since the day I started building saddles. Used Weldwood a couple of times when I ran out of Barge's, it did the job with 2-3 coats that the Barge's did with one. Since I do holsters now, time is important, and I have found the Barge's to take less time without one separation over the years. George
  4. Have to agree on the edges. A little more time and they could look good. Also, try to keep the barrel end of the pistol up inside the leather at the bottom. Keeps the additional wear off it from being exposed. Otherwise looks pretty dang good. Keep it up. George
  5. Different strokes for different holster buyers. All of mine are tight with as much contact with the weapon as possible. Unless the buyer wants it different. I have had a few occasions where the weapon was too tight for the customer's satisfaction. A small shipment of KG-9 solved the problem. I make the so called 50/50 pancakes and that is the only style of pancake that I make. I do not make flat backs. No particular reason, just don't. I have not had any of the problems discussed by some makers, guess I'm just lucky. Over the last 6 years I have sold quite a few of them and have a large repeat customer base because of the retention they offer. Maybe they are not for everyone but they have done just fine by me. With Avengers I make them tight as all get out figuring that after breaking in they will have less tension across the front and lose some of the retention. Can't say I'm any kind of expert, its just my humble opinion.
  6. That's a hard one to answer if the customer has the gun. Problem for me would be not knowing which revolver frame it corresponds with. There are some S&W dummy guns and some Rugers but I haven't seen much on the Rossi. Need to determine that first then shop for the dummy gun with a similar frame size in 4 inch .357. Could be a J, K or L but I would bet a J or K S&W. Also how many shot cylinder? That can make a difference in the girth of the gun.
  7. I have considered the glued Kydex as well but would need to stitch it in place. Just don't trust the glue by itself. The difficult thing about the Kydex is when I'm doing an Avenger and trying to figure out exactly where the rail will rub. Thanks Dwight, George
  8. I've given Kydex a thought and will try to figure it out when I get time. I don't touch anything with a light attached to it. Did one and it looked like a dang shoe. Thanks, George
  9. Hey All, been a while since I've had the opportunity to post anything. Just keeping way too busy with the orders and family. Is there something I'm missing to keep the Picatinny rail and the new more aggressive rails from tearing the heck out of my holsters? I let everyone I make one for or have made that the rail will eventually tear up the inside of the holster where it contacts, and, may eventually effect the life of the holster. Some are so aggressive that I will not even take on the job. Anybody figured out how to deal with this? Any and vice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, George
  10. I couldn't find anything similar. Thought the 709 slim would work but no go. Ended up buying the blue gun. Biggest problem is finding someone willing to pay for a custom holster for a $250 gun. Everything I've made for it has been cheap "one holster does many functions" at a cheap price.
  11. Just being a one man shop I can turn out 33 pancakes and avengers in a week figuring 5 days at 10 hours a day. Gun show season and the holidays makes my winters nothing but work. I hand cut, hand edge, machine sand then hand sand edges, hand applied edge dressing and machine sewn.
  12. Light to medium belts I do flat and heavy belts like double 8 oz. I do a slight curve using a 5 gallon bucket. Either way you run the risk of wrinkles, whether on the front or back. Back when worn front when flat, I would rather have the back wrinkle a little than have the front wrinkle. The only ones I've ever had wrinkle were early belts using either crappy leather or leather taken too close to the belly.
  13. Great tutorial. Only wish it had been here when I had to learn by trial and error. Pretty much the way I do it with the exception of detailing after assembly by just dampening the front panel.
  14. lookin' good as always.