leathersmyth

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About leathersmyth

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    Male
  • Location
    Calgary,Alberta,Canada

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  1. You need to use a riveting hammer to spread the prongs. The one end is flat hammer part but the other end is a wedge to open the wings of the feet. There are a few sizes of hammers depending what you need. I have used them for 40 years and still use them on the bags i make. They pretty much never need to be replaced....
  2. Depends what you are sewing, There are several machines that can sew the weight. Depends on thread, weight of leather,what you are sewing. Some of my machines can't get into what another one can.So i jump from machine to machine depending on project.
  3. If you look at picture, you can see where the two bolts bump together, Your back one,might not be sitting where it should be. The back one is the one you adjust if the stitch does not correspond with the numbers on the dial... So if you are getting no movement would tghink that back bolt is either backed out too far so not hitting dial bolt, or is missing....
  4. I would be interested in the punches... I am in Calgary, I prob will be heading to victoria begining of june, or could send them by post...
  5. I have had them made by a machinist in calgary. Took them a sample and they copied.... But i might of gotten some off aaron martin in the past as well.... Where did you get shuttle and bobbins from?
  6. If you look at the dial from the back, There is a bolt sticking out from. This in turn should be touching another bolt(end to end) As you turn the dial the dial bolt should push on the one behind it. This should cause the entire part of the head to move forward and back which is how the stitch get adjusted...
  7. There are two versions of this machine. The older ones are like this where the bottom arm is a solid bar... The newer one is a silver end. The newer one,you can replace the front bobbin shuttle parts if get worn. The older solid ones,once worn, thats it for the machine..... The newer version is better because you can replace bits and bobs if need to. the part that is bent is the pressure foot tension. Hard to say, what is exactly wrong with. Would need close pictures to see what is going on. Might be able to straighten the bent bits. Shuttles should not be a problem to replace. more the worn parts might need to be addressed and a worry about getting sewing again....
  8. Years ago, I switched to water based glues as much as possible to get away from fumes etc... They take longer to dry but i fiqure a small price to pay for less toxic.... Tandy water based contact works pretty good overall.....
  9. I have a machine made by the D.B. Die works company, it is a rotary stamp machine (like a gold foil stamp machine but with rolling numbers instead of being able to take dies) that heats up to about 400 degree and that you can change the numbers if you are making a production run and want to keep things marked. So they were made at one point but i would not be able to fathom a guess on how old the machine is...... Have had it for 40 odd years. If you have a Foil machine you could use the numbers from the sets to do the same thing, more fussing swapping numbers around...... Depends on how big numbers you are wanting to use......
  10. If, They are nails.... You can get nails that are made for trunk making. You kinda get use to how to set them, But you use a metal behind the leather and when the tip of the nail hits the metal it turns like a J. That is what causes it to "hook" into the leather and hold. When you are driving nail in,you do a sort of brush hit with the hammer, This then goes through the leather and hits the metal which causes the nail to bend like a J. Hard to describe.... I have set Thousands of them and get to know how it "feels" to set... If you set wrong they will bend like a L which is not what you want. You need it to go like J so holds leather like a rivet...... And yes, the trunk nails will turn the leather that colour with time and moisture.....
  11. Randall has been in business since 1858 and they were then and still are today, one of the largest suppliers of leather machinery, parts and tools in the U.S. The company name is now Campbell/Randall. Stitching horses were made in two different styles. One with straight in-line jaws and one with jaws that were set and turned a little to the left. The straight jaw was designed for harness makers and the off-set jaw as made for saddle makers......
  12. I will dig out my manual that is original and see if i can scan it. It is leather bound so will check if can put on scanner bed.
  13. PM Sent....
  14. You are going to have a tough time finding 3/4 oz. 40 years ago it would of been much more common to find thinner weights in english bridle. But with so many tanneries closing and limiting to what they produce,makes it harder to find the thinner leathers. Years ago i came this close to getting a splitter that did a whole side. They decided to keep instead of selling. But the reason it would of been sweet was because i would of then been able to get a heavier side and split to what i wanted. As is, i can split 14" and get the same thing,but it sure would of been nice to be able to do a whole side instead of being limited to 14"...... One option is if you get a drum load done at tannery,then you can get what ever thickness you want. But you will need to buy alot of leather if you go that route esp.with all the colours. 60 years ago we could order a drum load of what we wanted,but times Have changed to way back then.... All you can do is check with all the suppliers, and see if off chance someone has a job lot of english bridle to sell..... There is a supplier that i have contacted that gets a lot of leathers form europe. I am waiting to hear back from them to see what they can come up with. I use a lot of 3-5 oz in cases i make up, and always looking to find. Would not be wickett but if english bridle...... also, what kind of footage are you after? A bundle? 1000 feet? or a hide of each colour?
  15. There are a few ways to go about. A) depends on how many are many? To do belts in large (Large) quantity you could use a beam press,(clicker bed usually not big enough to lay die out on table and do one press ) Then you would need to have dies made up for each width and size you are making. Then it would be a matter of laying the hide on the beam press putting dies on, push a button, and instant belt with all the holes/slots done,then just the finishing aspect left. Lots of outlay of money to get started. B ) you can get machine strap cutters that can cut as many strips from hide you want. Biggest time is setting up the machine to the size you want. But if you are doing all one width then you don't have to bother with to often. Once hide is cut into strips, you punch holes where you want. I have a gang punch that i use, which centers the leather and then punches all the holes at once with a push of a foot lever. So depending what size holes and how many holes i want to punch . Use the dies i have and it takes two seconds per belt. C) A simple way, depending on leather you are using, Get a Good Plough gauge ( I prefer over draw gauge) Cut the straight edge along back,set gauge to width you want and start cutting. Once you have all the strips from hide, you start making the sizes you are after. Use hand tools to punch slots and holes needed... It all depends on how many,what type of leather and what is your profit margin per belt.... Belts are pretty standard for sizing, so once you know what size you want, you put holes in same place on each belt. Usually they have 5 holes the center hole is used as the size you are after and then there are two holes on either side of that hole. Ie) a 32 belt would have a center hole at the 32" mark,with two holes above and two holes below that point. Finishing again,depending quantity and type of belt you are making. The edges will need to be rounded and then dyed,polished to finish the edge. If you are doing a stamp belt,you can get dies, premade or made to order ( yes, the purists will cringe) once the leather is cased you run the blank through the machine and you get a imprint on leather. Then the finishing part needs to happen... The other way, is to carve and stamp the belt blanks out by hand. (time consuming if you have a few hundred to make up.... )