jforwel

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About jforwel

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montana
  • Interests
    hunting, hiking, shooting, motorcycling

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    belts, holsters, slings, coasters, wallets
  • Interested in learning about
    anything to improve my skill
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search
  1. OK, thanks for the replies, flat it is!
  2. I want to put a reinforcing strip at the top of a 1911 holster. I want to sew with a machine but of course sewing it flat and then trying to form the holster would cause a problem with fit. With a curve in the holster the area where the strap is would shrink. How do you put one on? Do you do it by hand after putting the curve in the holster?
  3. Weaver sells leather like that called "pasted back". I like it for coasters.
  4. You're not rambling Chief, well put and understandable, thanks. j
  5. OK thanks, I think I will practice some knife and tooling work and experiment with your methods.
  6. Thanks Art, do you think I could use a deglazer on this project and re-do it?
  7. I have been using Fiebings antique paste, wiping it off and then spraying thinned Resolene with light coats. The problem starts when I hand stitch. Either from handling or just pushing the needles through and pulling the stitches snug the finish starts to flake off on the area around the thread. I have read the finishing posts and it seems that maybe I shouldn't be using the antique for my color. I did not use a sealer first. I have RTC, Wyo-sheen, and Tandy Satin and Super Shene on hand. I have used Tandy's antique liquid and their finishes without issue. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  8. Some brass hardware for other applications has a laquer type finish to prevent tarnishing. You might try a lot of Brasso to get through it or use rouge and a polishing tip on a Dremel tool to wear through the coating, then you should be at the bare brass. You can tell because you will be able to give it a real good polish.
  9. Excellent idea and I guess you could make different sizes to suit your needs. Didn't the old masters make their own stamps from nails?
  10. When ever I want a lighter color under a darker one I use a brush to put a block on. Either RTC or Tandy's Block Out. It seems as if your technique is pretty much the same although I think the air brush would make it faster.
  11. I'm going, I'll be taking classes with Al Gould
  12. I accumulated a lot of Tandy tools when I started out but now I'm building a whole new batch of Barry King tools starting with the most used in my projects. Once I saw them at the Sheridan show I was addicted. Not the highest priced but certainly head and shoulders above Tandy.
  13. After breaking a Tandy awl I went to the trade show in Sheridan this past spring and bought an Osborne awl and also bought a Douglas awl at the store. I haven't used them yet but I like the idea mentioned above about using a drill press for straight punching, turned off of course. I always use a four prong chisel for lacing but I run them on a bench stone first since they come so dull.
  14. I have used canvas cloth to burnish edges on some things and I wonder if rubbing the GT in with the cloth would burnish the flesh side. I will have to practice on some scrap.
  15. Thanks for the compliments, Dan I am about an hour east of Glacier Park.