mrdabeetle

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About mrdabeetle

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday August 30

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://1of1designs.net/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Hats, armor, reenactment leathers

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    renaissance and medieval armor
  • Interested in learning about
    tooling, coloring leather, hardening leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    http://tombanwell.blogspot.com/

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  1. Not exactly the same thing, but with some modifications, this should work. http://myinnerneedtocreate.blogspot.com/2011/05/handmade-mei-tai-baby-carrier.html
  2. These are from 'The art of making leather cases vol. 2' by Al Stohlman. There are several different methods of doing this depending on the style of bag. I suggest buying these books from Tandy. They are very helpful for learning construction techniques.
  3. This is the inside of a spaulder. All of the plates cascade off of leather straps that run vertically on the inside. The breastplate is attached to the 'body' plate on the outside using a short buckled strap with a few holes for adjustment spaced 1/4" apart in the front and a short riveted strap in the back. The chest and back are buckled on the outside like in this pic. As for scaling the armor, these are for a generic proportioned male. Parts can be altered to fit. You will need to do a poster print, leaving the scale at 100% (not fit to page) as seen below.
  4. I save my dry dye applicators for this specific purpose. When you brush the dry applicator onto a freshly died piece, the fresh dye pulls the color from the dry one. I quickly blend the color using the wet applicator and it makes a nice aged look.
  5. Here is an updated link to the patterns. I apologize for the wait. I've been busy. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8b5iPJrJBn6OG1RYkd3cTR1djQ&usp=sharing
  6. The corners of the flap where the stitching creates the belt loops need to be reinforced. These are stress points and cause the leather to rip away from the stitches. When the belt forces the loops to curve around the body, those points will start to tear. A single rivet will prevent the rip or you can stitch a teardrop shape on the ends to spread the stress. If you use leather lace instead of thread, this is not an issue at all because the lace will stretch where the thread will not. I know that it sounds like I have nothing good to say, but managing stress points will greatly improve the longevity of your products. You have made a very accurate historical pouch. Thank you for sharing your work.
  7. We don't see much upholstery type stuff here. Thanks for sharing!
  8. The tan pigment has lots of yellow in it. It will mellow over time. Great looking case!
  9. The only thing that would make this better is if the hardware all matched. You can get the antique brass snap hooks from hardwareelf.com and sometimes on etsy.com and Tandy sells the antique brass rivets in several sizes. Craft shops often have them with scrap-booking stuff. I hate to sound like I'm being mean, but the mismatched finish on the hardware takes away from the impeccable quality of the carving and coloring.
  10. I think it would look better stitched. You would need to part the fur to keep it from getting caught in the thread and dragged through the holes. It would certainly last longer stitched. I never use glue as a permanent solution. I always use glue to temporarily hold the parts in place before stitching and/or riveting. As the leather ages and the item flexes with use, the fibers loosen and glue will eventually come away from the leather. Glue is fine for shoes because the sole wears and gets replaced. That's my two cents. You can test the glue method on some scrap. If it works for you, go for it. There are some videos on youtube where shoemakers use glue. Watch the way they rough the surface to allow the glue to bind better. This makes a world of difference. Good luck to you and I hope you find/create a method that works best for you.
  11. Shapeways has a 2d to 3d print option that can create a 3d image from a silhouette. I made a makers mark stamp for less than $10 including shipping. When it wears out or breaks, I can just have another printed and shipped.
  12. To get straight stitching holes in garment leathers, apply masking tape or painters tape to the edge of the leather <FLESH SIDE ONLY!>. Scribe a stitching line where you would like your stitch to go. Using a lacing/thonging chisel, punch the holes along the line. Remove the tape, and you are ready to stitch. Ignore the crooked magnet snap, I fixed it later I also use masking tape and a scribed line when I am hand cutting long strips of garment leather for flogger falls or straps. I hope this is useful to someone.
  13. This is another belt pouch pattern that I just threw together today. I have not added any stitching lines but I have added a seam allowance on the front panel piece. This pattern is intended for use with garment leather. If you use veg-tan tooling leather, make sure it is 2-3 oz or thinner for best results. As an option, you can omit the back and belt loop and duplicate the front panel and gusset and have a drawstring coin purse look. Softpouch1.pdf Softpouch2.pdf I apologize for not being able to add more to this pack yet. Between festivals, holidays and life in general, I have been pretty busy trying to catch up with the world. Thanks everyone for your interest and support. I will try to work on the requested patterns as I have time. This pouch is similar in appearance to the fairy pouch made by Fairysteps on etsy.com (shown below)
  14. The best thing to start with is a kit. Tandy has a decent roper wallet kit. They also have roper wallet guts by themselves. I've used the roper guts recently and was happy with the result. If you are wanting to make the guts yourself, take a look at this tutorial: http://leatherworker...?showtopic=9940 Springfield has some very nice wallet guts here: http://springfieldle...Interiors/ The customer service at Springfield is top notch and they are much more knowledgeable about the craft than some of the Tandy folks in my experience. If you are going to be hand stitching, make sure to only pull the thread snug, not tight. The lighter weight leather will pucker very easily if your tension is too high. This can make your card slots pucker or deform. Good luck to you. "I never make a mistake. I only make examples of how not to do it next time." - Anon