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About NVLeatherWorx

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  • Birthday 11/10/1964

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. Bag straps- what weight do you use?

    If you can't purchase a side then I highly recommend that you start looking at using pre-cut belt strips for your bag straps. For a bag that is relatively small and lightweight and is not intended to carry much weight you can get away with no less than a 6 to 7 oz. strap; majority of your bags should use a 7 to 8 oz. or 8 to 9 oz. strap so as to ensure that there is no stretch or undue stress applied to any portion of it. I use 8 to 9 oz. (standard belt strap weight) for all of the straps on the bags that I make; haven't had any complaints yet. I only use the 6 to 7 oz. straps for retro-fit/repair of the high end designer bags (I average at least one high end bag repair per month and it is always to have the garbage straps replaced with quality leather).
  2. Bag straps- what weight do you use?

    Putting webbing on a nice leather bag is like putting water into the gas tank of a fine sports car - just ain't right.
  3. magnets to sandwich

    Buckle Guy Ohio Travel Bag Tandy All three carry magnets that are pretty darn powerful; they are used to make money clips.
  4. Knowledge vs. Experience

    You nailed it my friend. I have been explaining to new people that I have to train in a work environment that is mechanically demanding and I always make it very clear that even though we have seen evolution in the technology behind how we design and build things, we have lost the true knowledge and experience of how to think on our feet and work through the issues that arise while on the task at hand. We have become technologically advanced but our ability to use our minds to achieve the great things that mankind has been able to do throughout history is no longer there. The best example of this can be found in the design and construction of the Great Pyramids; with all of our technology today we are unable to replicate the process or results to even think about trying to build that same structure. Experience is probably the best determining factor in one's successes but knowledge, when truly understood and applied, gives you the direction you need to go to gain that experience.
  5. Thanks for your response; I have been contemplating on whether or not to give them a try with some of my own designs but I wanted to make sure that their materials are solid. I have had some made by others and was not impressed with the results. From what I can see from their website they have a heck of an operation going and it is nice to know that they have a quality product as well.
  6. Did you purchase the acrylic template set from Make-Supply Leather or just go with the paper version for now? Kind of curious as to how well their acrylic templates are; seem to be solid but have seen some acrylic versions (from other sources) that were not all that great.
  7. I have found a supplier of small zippers for smaller projects like this one. I ordered 50 zippers from her for about $0.21 per zipper and they are perfect; needed them at 4" and they are spot on. I actually a make a wallet like this that uses them and I have now tossed all of my zipper making supplies because it was taking up space. Found here on Etsy and she has a several sizes that you typically can't find in the common market.
  8. That Rogue Wallet design is not anything new; Tandy Leather had this in their line-up a few years back (even before the Minimalist movement) and it is now available as a downloadable PDF from their Leathercraft Library (I have an original design sheet for this very item). By the way, they have it registered with a copyright so Rogue might want to be careful with pushing anyone else too hard about design infringement. That little pointy end is supposedly intended to make it easier to remove the wallet from your pocket; supposedly the rounded end limits any corners from getting snagged.
  9. Lace work

    The outer edge of the holster has been laced with a double whip stitch, as has been previously pointed out. The decorative "tab" on the front is indeed a Blood Knot, and the "lanyard" is a simple flat braid. All of these can be easily executed with some basic knowledge that can be found all over the internet. The type of lace used for the outer edge and the lanyard appears to be a 1/8" Natural lace, maybe calf or could be Roo lace; Blood Knots are typically done with either latigo lace or created with lighter weight harness/latigo leathers for the larger designs (this one would fit that bill well).
  10. What's happened to Hermann Oak?

    Been a long time since I have visited this place and posted but here I go. I have been, and still am, an H.O. supporter and have not had any issues with their leather. I get all of mine from The Hide House (www.hidehouse.com) in Napa, CA and it costs MUCH less than SLC or anyone else, even with my wholesale pricing as a business operator. In fact, my average price per square foot for H.O. is $7.95 and so far every side that I have purchased from them has not had any issues in the usable portion of the hide. You will always have the clamp marks and some rough areas around the edges and that applies to all suppliers and tanners but foot prints and the other stuff, not even a hint of them.
  11. Peace Out Leather Workers and this community; it has been nice but has degraded into a place where anyone can put their scam on (that is the solicitation for work that isn't realistic) and a source for very inaccurate and uneducated information.  As a professional who actually has been taught this trade by some of the former greats in leather working and artistry I find it to be a shame that our trade is being guided by those who guess (at best) what is the proper direction to go and then share this guess with the newcomers to leather; it is a severe injustice to what we do and to those who truly care about keeping the prestige in this craft that once existed.  There is a great pool of some very skilled and knowledgeable people here and that is a sign of hope but it is time to move on and get back to teaching those who truly want to learn and are capable of actually researching for themselves before just asking the same old question over and over again and then ignoring the guidance and assistance that has been offered.

    Good bye and have a great day.

    1. 480volt


      I really hate to see you leave this forum, one of the best aspects of conversation here is that experienced professionals like you are willing to address topics of interest. It gives hobbiests like myself access to the opinions of people who really know what they're talking about, and gives us the perspective of a manufacturer, not someone banging things out on the kitchen table.

      Best of Luck,



    2. bikermutt07


      Gonna miss your words of wisdom, here. But I know you have been frustrated for a long time with the barriage of nonresearched newbie questions.

      Good luck.

  12. In Need of Leatherworker

    Personally, if I were to be starting any kind of a leather company then I would probably make sure that I actually had some experience in the trade so that I didn't come off as just another person looking to make bank on the hard work and skills of others who aren't going to be properly compensated anyway for their time, materials, and skills. RockyAussie does some very beautiful work and I can be very sure that there would be nowhere near the proper, or fair, intent to compensate him for that work. I really am not a fan of those who wish to make money on our work while selling it as theirs (which is always the case so far). If you want to be in the leather business then learn how to make the things that you want to sell. It is that simple.
  13. As Mattsbagger said, do not apply to the flesh side of the leather as it will create some issues. When using Neatsfoot Oil you need to make sure that it is the Pure version and not one of the compounds that are out there as they are much darker than just pure oil. Apply lightly and let it set for a day or two and repeat if necessary. There is plenty of good information contained within these forums, all you have to do is search for it. You would actually be better off if you didn't put much value into the information obtained from Tandy as it isn't overly explanatory and leaves many newcomers making mistakes that could have been avoided if provided with quality and clear information. And the most important thing when it comes to final conditioning and sealing: all products do not play well with everyone else! In other words: you have to find out what is compatible with the materials that you plan on using and make sure that you only use those that will work with your intended direction; none of these are all encompassing so you will either have to get used to just a few items on hand which will limit what your overall direction is or get used to having a bit of everything laying around so you have flexibility. That is the way it is, it always has been, and it always will be.
  14. Mop & Glo finish question

    Just be aware that Mop & Glo can crack, even if diluted, and it creates a very unpleasant look when it does; looks kind of like a spider web when it does it. This is a product that is not intended for use on flexible surfaces as it is a floor finish and not a fabric finish. I have known several soldiers over my vast years in service who used it to give their Jump Boots (yup, an Airborne thing) that extra glassy look and when I saw it I would make sure that their toe caps were pressed and that they got the spider web effect; Airborne Troopers don't cheat!
  15. On the dry leather you may find it a bit more difficult to get the fades and other shading results you are looking for once you dampen the color as the moisture tends to set into the pores of the leather very fast. Another option that you may want to test out is to do all of your coloring and shading work while dry and then use a spray bottle to just mist the surface and see how that turns out. This way all that you will be doing is just setting the colors and shading and nothing more. Hope it works out for you but there are way too many non-leather folks out there who think that their stuff works on leather too yet they have never actually provided any visual evidence of it.