NVLeatherWorx

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About NVLeatherWorx

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 11/10/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. Never used it for main pieces but have shaved some of it down to use for linings and the like where thinner was better. It is chrome tanned and has also been highly altered to get that "pristine" look that furniture leather has. Don't really have much use for it otherwise so I just stay clear of it altogether.
  2. PM sent.
  3. The object of applying a resist is not to resist the whole thing but to only resist specific detail areas that you want to stand out from the rest. It is a waste of time to resist an entire piece of leather as there is no color variance to the finished look. If you want an entire piece lighter just use a lighter color and continue to apply overall. In the image that you provided, the intended resist section should have been the stamped area with the remaining "untouched" section being left to absorb the whole depth of color (you could also reverse that by resisting the unstamped area and not the stamped area to get a different tonal look).
  4. If you are making things for your own use then it doesn't matter what you would charge for it because you obviously aren't going to buy it from yourself. This information is directed at those who are making things for other people, not themselves/personal use. If you were to start getting requests from others who see your new leather gear though you would find yourself sitting in this same boat and wondering what to charge for it and that is when you can gain some insight from what we have provided as a response to the question.
  5. And this is how it starts; it did for me over 40 years ago and I have also taken my work overseas (stationed in Germany from 82 to 95) and made things while I was there. I now have wallets, belts, and even some saddles and Rodeo gear (yup, did that too) littered around the world. I do maintain one major rule now though and that is: all carved & tooled works are by custom order only now because it just ain't worth the time to make a bunch up for "show and tell" anymore; just have may picture portfolio now and it does what it is supposed to do, get customers. Keep up the good looking works and don't hesitate to share some more with us.
  6. First, using things like Mop n Glo, which aren't intended to be used for such things as leather finishing, won't yield anything positive for you; this is why there are specific products that have been developed for leather work. You have to remember that Super Sheen is a water based product so it won't hold up as well to things that have a spirit based formula; just simple chemistry there. Although Resolene will give you some resist factor it must be applied FULL STRENGTH and not in any other watered down blend. If you want to get the most positive results from your resisting attempts you need to consider going to one of the lacquers, such as Clear-Lac, which is available from Springfield Leather. This is the same product that we all once knew as Neat-Lac (for those of us who have been working with leather that long) and it has always produced the best and most consistent results. Another tip would be that to get the most eye popping results from a resist you might want to consider using your darker colors (Sheridan Brown is not one of them, it barely even adds much color as it is) and always make sure that everything has set and cured no less than 8 hours before moving on to the next step (apply resist, set aside and wait for it to properly set, apply Antique). I have been doing this for over 40 years and have never had a resist attempt not work for me so it is in the product mix and the process that you find the failures. There will be some chime in about being a purist but the reality is that this trade and craft requires a bit of traditional purity to get the results that you are looking for and to not follow the written flow of such activities (and this is all written down in many places by many workers and masters) will result in a failed attempt and wasted time and materials.
  7. I can get a single side of H.O. 11 to 12 oz. (or any other weight) for a maximum of $7.95/sft from a supplier; this is the same price that you would be paying per square foot if you ordered it direct from H.O. on their purchase plan. And this price is for the A grade. I also know that you will be pay a premium for B grade from Springfield Leather. I am in this as a business so every dollar invested into inventory has to be spent wisely; this is where the establishment of wholesale accounts is key and you don't have to be a big business to get the good pricing.
  8. There have been several within these forums recently that have had some issues with the consistency and quality of W&C leather, the OP here is just one of many to have posted about this. I have been user of H.O. for a very long time and have also used leather from W&C and Horween and have found that they are all comparable. I prefer H.O. because they are extremely high quality (the A grade, but their other grades are also very clean and nice to work with), they have always been consistent in their appearance and performance, and they are not as high priced as several have been making them out to be. If you order direct from the tannery then you will be required to make a purchase of a minimum number of hides as per their policies but you can get their leather from other suppliers for equal to the tanner rates as long as you establish a wholesale account with that supplier (if they offer one that is). I have never had an issue with H.O. and would, as a minimum, say that it stands equal to W&C. Tandy used to have one helluva fine veg-tan awhile back, their Live Oak line, it was the standard by which others were judged but they had to go ruin that idea and started supplying the lesser quality leathers that are now tanned out of country in pursuit of higher profits; one of the many things that supports the idea that they have long since lost their way in our craft. We all have to make our choices on what we use and who we get it from but we also have to be open to the potential of other options if the need arises. In the case of the OP here it was quite obvious that the leather he had received was less than acceptable and should not have been selected based on what his needs/requirements were (which he instructed them in). His provided image also supports the fact that W&C has some consistency issues as the OP has been using their product and noticed it himself. I have tried others and always go back to what has been consistent in quality, appearance, and results; just the way proper business really operates.
  9. Who did you get this pattern from? Sounds to me like the creator needs to do a little more detail explanation on how their product is supposed to come together. I can try to help you with it, as long as it isn't in a foreign language (aside from German).
  10. No worries! If you are a businessman then you need to think and act like one and I, as a businessman, would have had that thing on a return trip within a couple of hours of seeing it. Customer service may not be happy about having to arrange for a return but if customer service had actually been considered when your order was pulled, verified, inspected, and packed then that conversation would not have even happened. I always explain to people that Customer Service departments exist today because we stopped providing customer service during the sales process; if you provide quality customer service then you shouldn't have to create a department to handle the complaints. Kind of solves itself.
  11. These are things that you can research on your own and there is plenty of information contained within these forums to help you along the way. However, I can tell you that using an 8 to 10 oz. strap leather (I use 10 to 11 oz. H.O. veg-tan) you are using some of the strongest leather that will last many, many decades. There are belts that I made back in the late 70's and early 80's that are still in use, it is about how well they are taken care of by the end user that determines it's life span. If you are focusing on stamping and/or carving & tooling then you can only do that with veg-tan and it can be conditioned by you to have the same end properties as any of the other bridle leathers if you just learn how. I only use veg-tan for my works, regardless of what the intended use is, and I condition everything with my own house made leather conditioner and waterproof sealer which is also available for purchase by anyone. The other advantage of veg-tan is that it can be dyed/stained in any color that a customer wants whereas bridle leather and Latigo is already finished in a limited color run. If you are ever looking for extra long straps (pre-cut of course) Springfield Leather sells an 84" belt strap that is cut from 9 to 10 oz. H.O. veg-tan that can yield one helluva long belt, it is available in just about every width you would need too. If you are looking at making stiff belts then you may want to consider making 2-ply belts, top strap is from 8 to 9 oz. and the bottom strap is from 5 to 6 oz. but keep in mind that a belt is supposed to be comfortable and, stiff belts are not very comfortable until they break-in (which takes quite some time) and then they only "feel" comfortable because the wearer has gotten use to the feel. Good luck in your quest and hope to see some of your works.
  12. Well, that would depend on how serious you are with your future in this craft and how much profit you want to make from your items. If you are going to approach it as a hobby then you won't be as concerned about profit and paying yourself for your time but if you are taking this to a business level those things will change; they have to. If you just want to sell you works for the cheap, which really undercuts those who are in business for a living, then you would most likely want to drop this into someone's hands for around the $60 mark; if you are a businessman who actually intends on making a living on your skills then you would be moving this belt out the door closer to about $175 or maybe even more. As a hobbyist you just want some money to buy more stuff to work on and maybe get a fast food lunch while out and about while as a businessman you have to make sure that your wages (and associated expenses) are covered plus you materials and all of the other things that go into being a business (fees, licenses, operational expenses, taxes, etc.) and you have to also ensure some profit in there to keep yourself in stock with leather and what it takes to make more things. Only you can determine what your worth and it should be based on what your intentions/direction are going to be but be honest with yourself about it and ask, what would YOU pay for a belt like that knowing what you do about how it is made and what went into it?
  13. This is business and if the product is not to the standards expected, and advertised, then you should return it. The W & C issue is not new and there have been several posts over the past couple of years that document this issue. The choice is yours on whether or not to return it but from what I see from your attached image this is obviously a very fatty and terrible piece of leather. I haven't seen anything this bad from Tandy and their cheapest/lowest quality line (Craftsman Oak). If I had received a piece of leather looking like this, especially for the price that they charge, I would contact them and let them know that it is being boxed up and coming back to them. I would then make sure that a refund was done and I would spend my money with H.O. because I have yet to have an issue with their leathers; their lowest grades look better than this one does.
  14. Springfield Leather sells the Angelus versions of these in a few different tip sizes, Tandy has started selling a model of these as well.
  15. ...is.