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About NVLeatherWorx

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  • Birthday 11/10/1964

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. If the dye is properly applied and allowed to set then neither of them will stain clothing. Vegetable-tanned leather by itself won't cause any ill effects to anything as it is tanned with natural materials. Poor quality control in craftsmanship and production of items is what causes things like staining, etc., and that is it.
  2. Olive oíl as a finish

    Yes, it does. However, be careful with Olive Oil as it can result in over oiling really easy. If you want to give it a bit of darker shade set it out in the sun after oiling it and watch it tan, literally. Sun tanned leather is a unique looking thing.
  3. Liner for gun belt ?

    You are welcome. Good luck on your project and post some shots when you can.
  4. Where I get my leather

    I love it! I took some heat a couple of years ago when I posted a picture of my employee of the month: Bessie the Cow. I figured that someone had to honor my best employee for what she brought to the table. I don't give my sources either because most are just looking for some small pieces; for those I just tell them where the local Tandy store is and send them on their way. I have a business account with all of my suppliers so I don't need to clog the system with orders that will actually be less than the shipping.
  5. I posted one here somewhere awhile back that used the Eco-Flo Waterstains as the coloring medium and about 5 different resist products as well so that everyone could see that it could be done with the waterstains but you had to be wise to what your resist was as everything does not work to resist even if it is advertised to do so. My resist products were Tandy Super Sheen, Tandy Block Out Resist, Resolene (full strength), the Eco-Flo Professional Matte Finish, and Clear-Lac. If I can drum up a picture of my results I will shoot it to you. I am currently working on a full color carving that is going to be resisted then antiqued; I will shoot you those images as well if you would like. Keep in mind, I only use Clear-Lac as my resist (it has a proven history with me and I haven't found anything else that even comes close) and Fiebing's Antique paste as my coloring medium. You will get varied degrees of resist and those degrees can be further tightened up based on the number of coats you apply of your resist medium so there is an awful lot to take into consideration when doing this technique and your experiment. You know what would make that skull really stand out? Give it a color treatment of white acrylic paint, resist it, and then hit with a dark antique paste; that would give it an aged rustic look. Still though, damn fine carving for someone who doesn't think they have an artistic bone in their body. You sir have a knack with this carving stuff (I learned this from the get go so most of my career in leather has been carving and tooling; for me it is just simple but I know what it took for me to get there). You keep at it because this level of detailed work is what makes Master Craftsmen in this trade.
  6. The Mythical Tiger/ritza Thread...

    And so are Egyptian Leather and Buckle Guy; both of them have been doing it for a bit now.
  7. White paint and black antique... how is it done?

    What are you using as your resist? This makes all the difference, especially with the Eco-Flo junk. When you tried to remove the excess from the resisted areas did you use a damp paper towel?
  8. Next time you do a random item like this try this technique to see what a real resist looks like: Step 1: use Clear-Lac to resist the actual tooled object by simply painting just the object with the lacquer and let it dry at least 8 hours. Step 2: once the resist is dry you can then use your antique of choice and apply it just as instructed by the manufacturer, just make sure that you don't let it set before removing excess, do this immediately. Step 3: final seal with whatever finish you desire. The object of a resist is to give different tones to the leather so you use it to block out the penetration of antiques into the areas that you want to be lighter or protected. For example, you see these beautiful carved pieces with full color detail and darker main body finishes; to maintain the pop of the color those areas are resisted before antiqued. You can not truly resist an entire piece because all you are doing at that point is to just try and obtain a lighter tone for the whole thing; this and resisting are two different techniques. Clear-Lac is a resist medium and a finish; Tan-Kote is a finish only. You can use Resolene as a resist or a finish; Satin Sheen is a resist or a finish. Leather Balm is a finish only; Neatsfoot Oil is a conditioner; beeswax is a conditioner/finish only. Everything does not work for everything and using any of these in heavy coatings is asking for some issues, regardless of what the manufacturer suggests. Regarding your tooling work on the skull: it is awesome dude! I love how that turned out and you have a knack for the tooling arts my friend.
  9. Rub n buff

    Did you use Tandy's Eco-Flo Cova Color? I found that it is very watery and doesn't cover worth a hill of beans; I have always had good results with the original Cova Color from Fiebing's (I order direct as a distributor of their products). I have also experimented with the moisture content of the leather when applying Cova and have found that when the leather is still a bit moist (not soaked) I was able to get a more even cover; still had to apply more than one coat but the reaction between dry and damp leather is total opposites. Give it a try on some damp leather and see what happens. Another tip that I have learned over the years of using these acrylic paints is that you can't just shake the bottle to get it all worked up; remember back to the days of grade school when you were doing the fingerpainting projects and that acrylic paint was all lumpy? You have to stir up the settled layer on the bottom of the bottle and then give it a shake or two; if it is a bit thick just add some water and shake some more until it has a "creamy" look and flow to it. This stuff can be tricky and also very annoying but the pop of color is hard to match with just regular dyes. Looking forward to hearing your progress on this.
  10. Liner for gun belt ?

    Might I recommend then that you make this belt as a double layered 8/9 oz.? If you want to go a bit thinner then you can go down to a 6/7 oz. back liner but if the firearm is on the more heavy side you should go with a double layered version from the same weight leather for maximum rigidity. In the future if you continue to make these gunbelts you may want to consider making them from saddle skirting as it is firmer and thicker from the get go and also wouldn't require you to line it with anything, unless that is your style of course.
  11. Normally I would recommend that a person contact the maker of an item to discuss their questions but in the case the Mernickle line and knowing his work ethic (and the fact he is only about 1200 yards away from me and our respect for each other) you won't get anywhere with that direction. You may be able to figure your design question out by carefully "deconstructing" the design from the various images that you can come up with. Sorry that I can't provide any more on that though.
  12. belt rules?

    However, keep in mind that the only accurate measurement is that which is taken by physically measuring the person who will be wearing the belt. Another point to mention would be to space your buckle holes for the tip end at 7/8" apart versus the noted 1" spacing; the human body does not expand/contract (grow/shrink) in full 1" increments. The concept of spacing at 7/8" has been the recommended standard for decades and I have found it to be more accurate when fitting for comfort of the wearer, which is what we should be doing to ensure a satisfied customer. I also prefer to have a tip section of 5" in length (measured from center of last hole to the actual tip center/point).
  13. Dye loss

    Are you using a pre-dyed vegetable-tanned leather or an drum dyed oily leather? This makes a difference. The other side is, did you dye the leather yourself or purchase it that way? Oily leathers tend to release excess dye pigments because they don't have enough absorbing structure to latch on to; if you dyed the leather yourself then oiled it the oil content may be too high which will cause the same issue. The reality is that if there is too much pigment contained within the cell structure of the leather no amount of burnishing the edges or attempting to "seal" them is going to "stop the bleeding"; this is where the science of this craft comes into play and there are just some things that will prevail no matter what we try and do to prevent them. If you dyed the leather yourself then you need to make sure that you have buffed off all pigment before you do anything else; when applying oil replenishment conditioning do it in light coats and only enough to reestablish the natural suppleness of the leather (if it feels spongy or stretchy then it has too much oil/conditioner in it and will start to release anything you have applied). I am sure that you weren't looking for a science lesson here but there are times where they do come in handy. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress and results.
  14. Liner for gun belt ?

    The answer to you question will be based on what is the original thickness/weight of the main belt leather and what is your desired overall thickness when finished. One thing to carry forward on any project you undertake is that suede is not a good material for lining as it collects and traps all moisture and dirt which ultimately causes the leather to become glossy and eventually can get to a point where it stiffens and cracks. Suede looks pretty and it has a very soft and supple feel but it is like a sponge, just not as easy to clean.
  15. Absolutely correct but I don't care whether it meets the legal definition of leather or not, it just ain't leather. This type of fake product use is what has hit our industry and trade (the leather worker) and gives that consumer the information to question whether or not what we do is worth what we charge. All I ever do is let them know that they can buy that fake thing pretty reasonably priced and keep doing so every once in awhile or they can have it made for them out of real leather and have it for life. I even sat with a customer and calculated out how much they have spent (and will spend) on a cheapo wallet and when they found out that after 10 years they will have bought one of mine twice over they decided that it was worth it to have me make one for them because they would have it much longer and for much, much less overall. Lightbulb moment.