NVLeatherWorx

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About NVLeatherWorx

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 11/10/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. Peace Out Leather Workers and this community; it has been nice but has degraded into a place where anyone can put their scam on (that is the solicitation for work that isn't realistic) and a source for very inaccurate and uneducated information.  As a professional who actually has been taught this trade by some of the former greats in leather working and artistry I find it to be a shame that our trade is being guided by those who guess (at best) what is the proper direction to go and then share this guess with the newcomers to leather; it is a severe injustice to what we do and to those who truly care about keeping the prestige in this craft that once existed.  There is a great pool of some very skilled and knowledgeable people here and that is a sign of hope but it is time to move on and get back to teaching those who truly want to learn and are capable of actually researching for themselves before just asking the same old question over and over again and then ignoring the guidance and assistance that has been offered.

    Good bye and have a great day.

    1. 480volt

      480volt

      I really hate to see you leave this forum, one of the best aspects of conversation here is that experienced professionals like you are willing to address topics of interest. It gives hobbiests like myself access to the opinions of people who really know what they're talking about, and gives us the perspective of a manufacturer, not someone banging things out on the kitchen table.

      Best of Luck,

      Ken

       

    2. bikermutt07

      bikermutt07

      Gonna miss your words of wisdom, here. But I know you have been frustrated for a long time with the barriage of nonresearched newbie questions.

      Good luck.

  2. In Need of Leatherworker

    Personally, if I were to be starting any kind of a leather company then I would probably make sure that I actually had some experience in the trade so that I didn't come off as just another person looking to make bank on the hard work and skills of others who aren't going to be properly compensated anyway for their time, materials, and skills. RockyAussie does some very beautiful work and I can be very sure that there would be nowhere near the proper, or fair, intent to compensate him for that work. I really am not a fan of those who wish to make money on our work while selling it as theirs (which is always the case so far). If you want to be in the leather business then learn how to make the things that you want to sell. It is that simple.
  3. As Mattsbagger said, do not apply to the flesh side of the leather as it will create some issues. When using Neatsfoot Oil you need to make sure that it is the Pure version and not one of the compounds that are out there as they are much darker than just pure oil. Apply lightly and let it set for a day or two and repeat if necessary. There is plenty of good information contained within these forums, all you have to do is search for it. You would actually be better off if you didn't put much value into the information obtained from Tandy as it isn't overly explanatory and leaves many newcomers making mistakes that could have been avoided if provided with quality and clear information. And the most important thing when it comes to final conditioning and sealing: all products do not play well with everyone else! In other words: you have to find out what is compatible with the materials that you plan on using and make sure that you only use those that will work with your intended direction; none of these are all encompassing so you will either have to get used to just a few items on hand which will limit what your overall direction is or get used to having a bit of everything laying around so you have flexibility. That is the way it is, it always has been, and it always will be.
  4. Mop & Glo finish question

    Just be aware that Mop & Glo can crack, even if diluted, and it creates a very unpleasant look when it does; looks kind of like a spider web when it does it. This is a product that is not intended for use on flexible surfaces as it is a floor finish and not a fabric finish. I have known several soldiers over my vast years in service who used it to give their Jump Boots (yup, an Airborne thing) that extra glassy look and when I saw it I would make sure that their toe caps were pressed and that they got the spider web effect; Airborne Troopers don't cheat!
  5. On the dry leather you may find it a bit more difficult to get the fades and other shading results you are looking for once you dampen the color as the moisture tends to set into the pores of the leather very fast. Another option that you may want to test out is to do all of your coloring and shading work while dry and then use a spray bottle to just mist the surface and see how that turns out. This way all that you will be doing is just setting the colors and shading and nothing more. Hope it works out for you but there are way too many non-leather folks out there who think that their stuff works on leather too yet they have never actually provided any visual evidence of it.
  6. I would never use any form of cooking oil as it will attract rodents (after all, it is food oil) and it also tends to become rancid down the road and can really stink up the place. As far as shampoo, I would never use a soap of any kind on leather as it is just a soap and doesn't offer any valuable conditioning elements nor does lend itself to protecting the leather from the elements. I would say that this "fellow leather worker" has not even read the simplest of instruction on the craft and has been trolling some of the most questionable forums for their source of information. This concoction possesses no valuable benefit for leather or anything else; I wouldn't even recommend it for dry scalp.
  7. Oil and Resolene?

    I use Pure Neatsfoot Oil to condition it after it has dried but the oiling is not heavy, and it never should be. I give it a simple wipe of oil using a 1" stippling brush and let it cure for about 12 hours; I give it a second application using the same method and let it cure for another 12 hours. Once I have the two treatments applied and they have had time to set I check to make sure that the leather has the soft supple feel that it should and that the shape has been retained. Oiling of leather is so commonly done incorrectly and that is what results in the myriad of issues that leather workers are having with dyes/finishes not taking properly, heavy rub-off, excessive stretching, and so many other things; just apply your oil treatments as light coats and let it set before you repeat the process. I also apply my dye/stain/antique to formed items in light and layered methods with at least a 24 hour set time between each one. It takes awhile to get a formed piece done this way but you don't run the risk of undoing everything that you have just done by doing so; patience is what makes a fine finished product and patience is not found in speed and rushing things.
  8. Oil and Resolene?

    Soaking your leather in oil isn't quite a good thing to do as it will give the leather a very spongy feeling and it won't ever be quite right. When I have made sheathes I always have the clients knife with me and I wrap it in plastic wrap and painters tape to seal out moisture from the blade; this allows me to properly wet form the sheath around the knife and I don't get the spongy results that come from over oiled leather. The plastic wrap and painters tape do not add enough extra dimension to the blade to create an issue and just for safety sake I remove the blade from the sheath a bit before the leather is totally dried; when the leather finishes drying it has a little bit of room to snug up (some may call it "shrink") and the knife fits snug once finished. That is just my way of doing things. If moisture is going to be an issue then I create a form of the blade with the thinnest Kydex I can get and then build the leather around that; have used it repeatedly when the local hunters need a new sheath for their hunting knives. The Kydex sleeve allows them to put the blade into the sheath while they are working on cleaning their kill without getting the blood on the leather itself.
  9. Just make sure that you get Pure Neatsfoot Oil and not the Compound version; the compound is a blend of oil and other chemical "conditioners" that does have issues down the road.
  10. Peening copper rivets

    Nailed it!
  11. Seeking advice for Applying Finish to Gel Stains

    First of all, replace your Mink Oil with Pure Neatsfoot Oil as it is a conditioner and Mink Oil is a waterproofing agent only. Second, anytime you apply any coloring agent (dye, stain, antique, etc.) you should let it set for at least 24 hours to ensure a full cure and set. Third, ditch the gel stuff and get some more permanent stuff (Fiebing's for example) as the gel stuff is water based and is going to rub off well after you even apply your final finish; it is not good quality stuff and there are hundreds of threads within this community that cover that and many other issues with water based products. Once you have finished a project if you want it to be water resistant (you won't every get it truly waterproof as that is a commonly misused term within the leather industry) then you need to look at using a final finish that includes beeswax as it will get into all of the pores and other areas of the leather and provide a good solid seal. I personally use Leather Balm with Atom Wax and then apply a final finish of my own blend of Pure Neatsfoot Oil and Beeswax to give it that extra water resistance that it needs. No matter what, the user will always have to take care of their leather items and give them a little love every now and then.
  12. Springfield Leather no longer accepting PayPal?

    It is all about cost of doing business with PayPal on the larger market (world wide web shop versus smaller eBay sales; besides, PayPal is a requirement for eBay, it is voluntary everywhere else). If you are a seller and use it to process your payments from customers you would know real quick how much you give to them for each sale; now imagine that same concept for a business that does a few thousand dollars per day. And again, PayPal pools your funds within their system which then requires you to log into your account and transfer them to your bank; I speak from experience when I say that it gets to be quite a hassle to have to transfer everything every time I use PayPal. This is why I have gone another route as a seller.
  13. What type of leather are you using? This makes a huge difference. What type of dye are you using? This too makes a huge difference. Some pictures would really help some of us be able to troubleshoot your problem and give you some direction. If you aren't using veg-tan leather then you are already heading down the wrong track but we can possibly turn you around (with another piece of course) if you are using veg-tan.
  14. Springfield Leather no longer accepting PayPal?

    If you are a seller then there are better options to go to other than PayPal. My primary processing method when I travel and do shows, etc. is Square; they have slightly lower fee rate and your funds are deposited directly to a bank account that you link to your Square account. Their app is also much more user friendly and more Point of Sale looking that that of PayPal. Another option is to use Intuit's GoPayment app and device. It is pretty much the same rate as PayPal but they deposit your funds directly into the linked bank account and your sales data can be synced to your desktop/online version of QuickBooks accounting software if you are using it. It too is more user friendly than PayPal can be known for. Neither one of these two options have any monthly fees or hidden charges attached to them; there are several more systems that are available but they all have fees, charges, etc. that make them less attractive to sellers who are looking to maintain as much profit as possible from their hard work.
  15. Springfield Leather no longer accepting PayPal?

    Anyone ever thought about reaching out to them and asking about it? If they did drop PayPal then it was most likely due to the hassles that exist around actually having it a payment processing option; I have used them but they are not my main go to choice because I don't like the all of the hassle associated with them. I have several friends who have dropped them altogether for this very reason; more options that are much more user friendly and actually cost less to use. Business is business.