NVLeatherWorx

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About NVLeatherWorx

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. Amen brother! Let us shout it from the rooftops!!!
  2. Slap or blackjack ..

    Very much the same idea behind what the German Polizei use today, it is a short rubber billy-club styled device that is spring loaded and when it goes to town on you it is staying the night. More modern is the sap gloves; a full leather glove that has a large band of shot built-in along the primary knuckle line. These things are effective (have used them when deployed in those less than desirable locations of the planet) because you never know what you are going to run into. Don't know where you would find any patterns though but you I am sure that you can find them out there somewhere.
  3. Leather edge finishing from the professionals with an sander

    I thank you very much, this is what these forums are supposed to be all about and yet we tend to collect those low-skilled, non-thinkers, who feel that they are capable of competing with us. This is the perfect candidate for a Darwin Award.
  4. Leather edge finishing from the professionals with an sander

    And now that you have called out Dave from Saddleback you need to understand that he was once operating here in the U.S.A. (his homeland) and decided to take his operation south of the border to save some serious cash (which he now banks even more of). The leathers are all sourced from local tanners where is based now and their quality is not as great as they are made out to be. I have personally spent time with a Saddleback bag and the smell of the leather was repulsive at best. The quality of the stitching is nothing to go crazy over as it is machine stitched and I have seen these bags fail as a result of that. There is nothing that is great about a Saddleback product nor does anything about their products make them the authority of quality, process, technique, or even a top-notch price example; they simply charge more for lesser quality work than they used to be in the beginning and in turn the people who actually do all of the work are given a meager salary at best to give their life to the brand. There are plenty of self proclaimed Masters out there who can baffle you with bullshit all day long and just because you have a great looking product doesn't mean that you have a great product; a great product is one that has been carefully designed and methodically produced to give the user years of useful service and that all requires expertise, training, and humility. You made a comment earlier that you don't pay for expertise but you pay for results. Well, let me lay this out clearly: quality results only come from expertise and true knowledge of your trade and there is no way around that one; this applies to every trade out there and to think otherwise shows a serious lack of humility which is a necessity when you are trying to learn and improve your craft. I have seen many people offer you guidance and assistance with the questions that you pose here and yet every time you drag out a thread by creating argument points or contentious disagreement with the answers. Here is the reality that we all must face: if we want to play with the big dogs then we need to become a big dog and establish our place with the rest, only you control that so give that some hard thought. To make it a bit easier to understand for you I will use your comment on how you don't pay for expertise but you do for results and I will equate that your Etsy shop. You are new to Etsy so the fact that you don't have any sales yet is not something that I am going to go after because the sales on Etsy don't just happen because you are there, you have to wait for them. I will however comment on the quality of the workmanship that you have posted with your 3 listings and when it comes to results I have to say that they are NOT of a quality that is being sought out. You may be a person of skill in your homeland and there may be people who look to you for the skills that you have because they have no idea how to do it themselves but your skills, expertise, and the results of them are not of the level that your global marketplace are looking for. The majority of consumers, whether of leather goods or other items, look for quality results in their products and the expertise behind those results because once you start comparing the "value" priced item against the more expensive item (leaving Saddleback out of this equation as the quality is not as good as it is touted to be) you need to be looking at the expertise level. I have made wallets, belts, purses, and other items back in the early 1980's that are still being used today by their owners and that is because I put my skill, knowledge, and expertise into every piece I make and I gained those items through education, practice, asking for guidance, and asking for critiques and reviews; all of this to become better at what I do and all of it required some humility because you don't always get that glowing response. This is the way of the world and if you wish to compete in it and with those of us who are in it, and here, this is what you have to start working towards. You can better serve yourself by absorbing the guidance and help that has been so graciously offered by the many people within these forums or change direction and quit asking questions that you don't really want to hear an answer on because it doesn't fit within your wheelhouse. Your situation where you are is different than every one of ours and ours are all different from each other as well and we understand and accept that; you need to spend your time focusing on your market before you can visit other markets and if your area can not support your intended desire to grow a business then you need to get yourself up to standards and results that will allow you to compete elsewhere. No intention to beat you down here because that is not how we as helpful resources should be operating but sometimes the truth must be made known and it often is painful to accept. Just keep working on your results to achieve what you are looking for and don't worry about what the "other guy" is doing, you be you and find your niche in this trade and let them have theirs. Good luck and keep practicing towards fine finished products.
  5. Wallets layers?

    From the looks of your card slots in the image you are already using a very low weight leather so there isn't much skiving that could be done to that without the risk of damage. When I make wallets with the stacked pockets like that and the request is for anything more than 3 pockets per side I have created T-slot templates that have the bottom (hidden section) offset from one another. In other words, one T-slot base will be to the left most side of the component and the next one will be to the right most side of the component; I then continue on until the final cover pocket. Either way, you are still going to have some thickness but it is minimized by being spread out instead of just down the center line where all you pocket bottoms line up. Another option is to use a lining leather for that many pockets as it is much thinner than the rest.
  6. Leather edge finishing from the professionals with an sander

    I am hoping that you were being sarcastic about this. Saddleback Leather is not design and process guru that some think they are, just as there is no validity to the statement that just because it is on the Internet or Facebook or whatever your favorite online distraction is that it must be true. There are just as many ways to finish your leather edges as there are to do anything else with leather so it is up to YOU to figure out what works best for you and then stick with it. I, for example, have been working with leather for over 40 years and was taught the method of simply wetting the edges and then hand burnishing and it works just as it should, as long as you do it properly. I also have a mini bench motor that I have setup as a burnishing station just to fiddle with and I use the same technique of wetting the edges and then run it on my burnishing machine. The results are exactly the same as when I hand burnish but it takes more time to accomplish this way than by hand because you have to lessen the pressure applied so that you don't over heat the leather and scorch it. A craftsman needs to figure out their place in this market, educate themselves for that place, tailor their skills and expertise to meet the needs of that place, and then stick with it. Only look to change something if it isn't working at all and then make sure that what you do replace it with works as you want it to.
  7. There is no value to you taking on work that is based on the length of stitching that you are expected to do and being limited to a "standard" when it comes to what is considered acceptable to charge for your work. Who is someone else to determine what your time, skills, and machine use is to cost? The answer to that question is, you, you only; there is no government or industry formula that can work that out because they don't know what your experience is or what goes into doing what you do so you are either in the leather working business to make money, pay your bills, and grow your business you are just in it to fill your time and get walked on by others who are just using you to do the work that they do not want to learn or invest in themselves. I would never take on a job where someone else will dictate to me what an acceptable charge/cost is on any aspect of the work I do as I am the one with the skills and know-how that you are looking for so why the hell would I let you tell me how much you will pay?
  8. steps for finishing

    If you are using an Antique then you can go with doing the color detail work first (whether using dye or acrylic paints) but you should always add a resist (even if using acrylics) to ensure that there is no unwanted penetration from the Antique. Once you have your coloring all done, including the Antique, you can seal it with whatever your top coat of choice is. If you are using dyes as your main coloring then you want to dye all of the leather first and once it is dry you can do all of the color detail work and then seal it once dried. Dyes will penetrate resists and you will ruin the entire project.
  9. Brass Briefcase Locks

    Depends on where in the World you are located. If you are in the U.S. then your best source will probably be Ohio Travel Bag.
  10. Dye problems looking for advice?

    As most have said, apply dye, let dry completely, buff heavily, and then seal. It does help a bit to dampen your leather as well. When doing belts or collars I always leave the back side the natural color (that is if you are working with veg-tan) as it will darken by itself over time and when dealing with animals I don't want anything to be at risk of causing an allergic reaction on them. Another thing that I have done for many years is to apply my first dye application and let it dry, buff it, apply a second (to make sure that I get good, deep color) and let it dry, then buff. From here just move on to my standard finishing and done.
  11. Bleed-proof dye job

    "Patience comes to those who wait" - Probably one of the most "duh" moments in the writers life was when they penned that little tidbit of wisdom. Patience is something that we can all learn to be better at in this trade regardless of how long you have been doing it. Of course, we also know that patience is a virtue but I am not one who is very virtuous. On the conditioner, you can also apply it a bit thicker for the initial application and then use a standard blow dryer on a medium heat setting to "melt" it into the leather; still let it sit for a bit before you buff it out though and, if need be, you can apply another coating as normal to give it that rich look. I have found that my end finish looks almost identical to what a Resolene finish would give you, not overly shiny but it has a nice "glow" to it.
  12. Bleed-proof dye job

    Here is where I go with it: Oil - 50%, Beeswax - 30%, Cocoa Butter - 20%; you can dabble with it and come up with whatever you find feels best to you. I always take a piece of unfinished veg-tan with me and when someone asks about the conditioner I apply some and then buff it off after a few minutes (like to let the oil soak in and beeswax to firm up first). Then I take and put a drop of water on the leather and let it sit there. I leave it there for a couple of hours and everyone else that sees it gets that spark in their eye that they just have to get some of that stuff. Now, you need to be very clear that this in no way will permanently waterproof the leather; nothing really will regardless of the claims and published information; it does doe very well at repelling water for a very extended time though and that is the key. Good luck and have some fun with it. If you get into the business of packaging and selling you can find the perfect tins (that is what I use) on Amazon. I have 1/2 oz. tins that I give away on all sales over $90, 1 oz., 2 oz., and 4 oz. tins that I sell. The 1/2 oz. tin alone will last a couple of years, maybe 4 (depending on the number of leather items that it is used on of course). It doesn't take much to work but you will learn that shortly.
  13. Bleed-proof dye job

    There isn't really anything personal about the blend. I use natural beeswax (it has been heavily filtered to get all of the junk out but is as pure as it can be, and without all the smoke smell), Pure Neatsfoot Oil (no compound garbage), and Pure Cocoa Butter; the trick is to get the right ratios so you have a finished product that has the same consistency as lip balm. In fact, I have one local leather craftsman that uses my sealer as his Mustache wax for the "handle bars", he loves it. It doesn't have a honey smell or any other smell for that matter but it does bring out the natural aroma of the leather, especially if it is a true Oak tan leather; you get the real leather smell without all of that "perfume" smell to cover up the stench of a lesser tanning solutions.
  14. Bleed-proof dye job

    Pro Dye, Pure Neatsfoot Oil (not that Compound crap), and my sealer of choice is my own blend that I make right here in the shop; all pure and natural ingredients without all of those "essential" oils that just stink the place up and make leather nasty.
  15. Hey Mutt, As long as you are on this side of the Dark Side, we are all good. It is those who wish to be on the other side of the Dark Side that should worry.