• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About NVLeatherWorx

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/10/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. Don't go by that type of tracking information, it is always inaccurate regardless of who you are purchasing from. I have placed orders with SLC that indicated that the Postal Service hadn't picked up the package yet after 2 days and had it in my mailbox 2 days later; I get the same thing with Amazon and everywhere else.
  2. Buckel Guy carries Tiger Thread as well and in larger spools than you can typically find elsewhere.
  3. You always want to condition the leather to replace any oils that may be drawn out during handling, the best product for this is Pure Neatsfoot Oil (no compounds, they have way too many chemicals in them). The application of dyes/stains will be no problem, just apply your oil after the coloring has dried properly and you should be okay. Be careful not to overdo the oil though as it will turn the leather into a soggy, stretchy mess and it won't work too well as a drive belt. There should also be no cracking, just make sure that you maintain the conditioning of the belt over the time of its use.
  4. Takes about 25 minutes, including "punching" the holes. I suffer from Arthritis in my hands (all those years as a combat soldier getting your hands smashed one way or another) and can still pull it off without the pain taking over. If you are doing just a plain wallet (no stamping/tooling) then you can get away with using 3/4 oz. for the back and 2/3 oz. for interior parts. I use the "T" style pocket design so that the edges (all of them) are not overly thick. Just an FYI though: the thinner the leather, the easier it is for something to slip out of place and create an issue. It appears that you are trying to create what could be considered as a "designer" style product; if you ever have the chance to take a close look at those high-end/high-priced designer wallets you will notice that they aren't very perfect looking either, you just get confused by the all of the "bling" effect items which distract you from the reality that it isn't all that great looking when you focus on it. Don't give up on wallets as this seems to be the market for the time being; it is about 80% of my business right now so that is what I am focusing on.
  5. The first thing is that if you want a good finish that will last don't use ANY of the Eco-Flo products, they don't have any staying power and there are plenty of questions just like yours that have multiple responses saying this very same thing; go to quality products that are spirit based (Fiebing's for example) that will penetrate deep into the leather and stay there where they belong. When it comes to color/shading it is all in how much you apply, the less you apply the lighter the results. If you are looking for unique tone techniques then it is time to start reading up on how to use dyes, stains, Antiques, and all of the other finishes; we all did it this way and there aren't any real shortcuts here when it comes to creating quality looks. And by all means, test, test, test, until you get what you are looking for; great way to put some of that scrap box clutter to work for you.
  6. Did the Aftcra thing and it is a total bomb; there is no exposure through their platform and I don't think there ever really will be. Did the Handmade at Amazon thing as well and the issues are multi-fold with them: way too many listings that are NOT handmade end up showing up during a search, most of the stuff that does populate your search results is that cheap, faux leather garbage from foreign sources, their policies are confusing and inconsistent, and so much more. And, as with Etsy, the Amazon definition of handmade is not truly handmade, it just sounds good when you use it I guess is their thinking. If you are just starting out the stick with Etsy, at least it won't break the bank.
  7. Pricing is the part of the process that you need to find yourself comfortable with establishing. If you are out to do this as a business then you need to think like a business and take EVERYTHING into consideration when setting your prices. For example, you have your materials, supplies, time, shipping/postage, shop expenses (rent, water, electric, etc.), and everything else that goes into making that one product/item. Now you have to add in any profits that you are looking to take in (and this requires you to think like a very serious business) and this all comes together to help you lay out your pricing. If you plan on actually taking some of the sales for your own (paying yourself for your time) then you have to make sure that you are taking a fair wage for yourself which means that is what your labor costs will include (aside from the traditional labor expenses of taxes, payroll fees, insurance/benefits, etc.) as part of the equation. If you have product that is unique and not widely available/distributed then you have a better chance at setting your pricing higher as you have no real competition for the sales. Bottom line is this: if you are in it to be profitable then make sure that you are selling for that in mind; if it is just a hobby then don't worry too much about what you should charge (most hobby sellers set their pricing at just a slight little bit, less than 20%, over the cost of materials) as it doesn't matter if you make money or not, you are just doing it for the fun of it. If your product/items are available then do some research into what others are charging and compare yours (quality, style, appearance) to theirs and if yours looks better you can go higher than theirs, if not go lower. There is an abundance of makers selling full-time that put out some pretty cruddy looking work yet have their stuff listed at prices that are above the quality that they put out and they are still selling hand over fist; if you have something better then make money on it and when asked what makes yours better than the other guy? Just let them know that your product is superior throughout and has been made with quality, design, and aesthetics in mind (it looks beautiful when compared to the lesser versions).
  8. Buckle Guy doesn't have minimums, unless you want to get some pricing breaks that is. If you are just looking for some single item orders then just stick with paying way too much at a local Tandy store. Wholesale/quantity purchases are where see the benefit of working with a supplier that has a wide range of products and/or options; looking for the smaller amounts is best kept at a lesser capable store level.
  9. That minimum is per order but once you start getting the supplies that you will go through it doesn't take much to get to that number; there is no annual requirement with them. By plain I am assuming that you are talking about the simple belt clip style? Those are not for money clip use even though you may see some labeled as such or used as such; they are worthless for this use and have no use as a belt clip either as they are not very rigid or strong. I only use the flip-clip style and the spring loaded bar clips for fold over type money clip wallets.
  10. Those items (Dr. Who, Mickey Mouse, etc.) are all protected items as the images and anything attached to them as is stated in their registration and copyright filings so ANYONE who makes an item that contains anything of that nature is in violation of U.S. Federal Code and is subject to imprisonment, a fine, or both and these are indeed enforced very stringently within out court system. You would not believe the number of people who have found themselves standing in front of a Judge for making an item that included the Harley Davidson logo (just one example, this is the case for ALL Trademarked and Copyrighted images/logos, and writings); it is common here in my area and yet there is still those who think that they won't get caught, that is until they bring their stuff out for sale at a local craft fair or other such event and find themselves being shut down. I know of people who have lost everything they own just because they thought that they could get away with it, WRONG!
  11. Here are the item links: Flip-Clip Money Clip at Springfield Leather: http://springfieldleather.com/?ck=xUQw_etHAs_7p0zT&vid=b2XHhCklAmaR-u3B&cktime=149339&cart=4431&promocode=&promocodeaction=overwrite&shipmeth=18398&gc=clear&chrole=14&fragment=/Money-Clip-Flip-Np Flip-Clip Money Clip at Ohio Travel Bag: https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/65f591e3-b8a9-4418-8b91-b9ebc85907c2/C-1816 For Ohio Travel Bag you will need to register for a Wholesale Account first and then you can place an order, minimum order amount is $30 for them; Springfield has no minimum.
  12. The one on the left is actually a holster clip so it is pretty much set in its shape and usefulness; for the one on the right (that is actually a money clip) there are plenty of sources: Springfield Leather Tandy Leather Ohio Travel Bag and I am sure that there are many others. For bulk, you might want to go with Springfield or Ohio Travel Bag as their pricing is much better than Tandy. And, just for the record, they all get their hardware from the same source so you decide how much you want to pay for them. The leather is easy to cut your self and there is no reason to purchase it as a pre-cut kit as you end up paying way too much for them that way and half the time you will find that not one single piece lines up with the next one.
  13. You can contact the maker and see what they say about it but, unless the item is truly registered and/or patented, there isn't much stopping you, or anyone else, from making something like this and moving forward on it. The key to true protection of your works is attached to the expense of actually registering them and obtaining a patent/Trademark/Copyright on them; merely saying that your works are protected without having anything legal to back it up does not prohibit one from copying it. As a professional courtesy you should always respect the works and creativity of others and, in the event that you "copy" any of their designs, you should give them credit when doing so. I would however bet that if you were to search the Internet a bit more that the vary design that you have linked above is available from several different sources in one fashion or another so that would not make it a unique item which would make it that much easier to create your own version of it.
  14. I "watermark" everything just so it is known who it belongs to. I have actually found some of my "watermarked" images being used by another local weekender and had to shut it down because he wasn't even following through on most of his requests and I wasn't about to get my name dragged into that mess.
  15. Resolene will not waterproof the leather, it helps to protect the leather from the elements but it isn't waterproof as it itself is a water-based product. Waterproofing only comes from using products that are labeled as such or those that you can make yourself just like so many of us do. I use my own blend of beeswax and Pure Neatsfoot Oil and it can pass the test of being waterproof, the water actually runs right off the leather and doesn't even bead up. There are several sources for a recipe for such things via the Internet and they are not hard at all to make if you have what you need. Several of us even make it to sell as an add-on item to our leather goods. Just remember, you can't stop water with water. And when you get the chance, drop the use of Eco-Flo products as soon as you can; they are not good at all and there are plenty of stories to support this throughout these forums.