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About cbeatti2

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  • Birthday 06/10/1964

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    Leather-work (of course), guitar, motorcycles, industrial espionage.
  1. Agreed. Very nice, and lots of intricate tooling there, without being too much. Keep it up!
  2. Yeah, that's what I have started doing lately (helps to get it deeper into the tooling) but it's still not where I want it...maybe I need to increase my Clear-Lac thickness, or apply 3 coats. I don't think I have tried 3 coats before....hmmm. A lighter color of leather would help too I expect. Thanks!
  3. Hello again. Thanks for the reply. I am using Fiebings antique paste, and leave the resist dry for 24 hours between coats and before proceeding to the antique. Lately I have been cutting the paste slightly with Tan-Kote. I have been buffing with trimmed fake sheepwool....trimmed to not reach deep into the tooling impressions. Here is a sample of two coats Clear-Lac (24 hours drying time between) and then some Fiebings Mahogany Antique paste (left). Middle sample is paste without any resist at all, and right sample is untouched leather. I was working through this previously using multiple samples, trying to get the results I was looking for. The sample is very small, about 2 in x 2 in. The photos of the projects were using Sheridan Brown Antique paste I believe. Some samples of what results I have had:
  4. Hi Would someone here be able to fill me in on how to achieve this type of natural finish look for the high areas and the burnished look for the lows on these pieces? I've tried to do this, using a few layers of resist (LCI Clear-Lac) then antique, but haven't been able to maintain the natural, almost un-oiled look of the high parts of the leather as the antique always darkens the resist to some degree. Perhaps the secret is in the leather itself (awesome burnishing properties) and there is no antiquing involved here? It's a look I would like to be able to create for some of my projects but it's been alluding me. These guys sure go to town on their tooling, and create some nice work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5udaOaTBkeU Thanks! Clark
  5. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll go pick a set before the sale expires...I need all the help I can get with my leather stitching. Tracing paper is also on sale I see. Clark
  6. Ah, I see. They cut a hole like a chisel (hence the name) instead of making a hole like the awl does... The awl makes a small needle hole that gets stretched out and therefore would also shrink and seal up. Good to know. Thanks
  7. Thanks Wishful. I'll probably pick it up then...I keep thinking I have all the tools I need and then along comes the next need, but this one is a necessity I think, but then I always say that. LOL. Clark
  8. Hi Does anyone have any experience with the Craftool Diamond Hole Chisel Set (Pt # 3009-00)? It's on sale ATM and seems like a good buy for a hobbyist like me but not sure if I should be using something like this or simply using a diamond awl and doing one stitch at a time as demonstrated in "The Art of Hand Stitching Leather", after using the stitch wheel. The chisel set seems like it would reduce a lot of the inconsistency I seem to currently have in my stitches. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3009-00.aspx Thanks, Clark
  9. Hi. I am working on this biker wallet to try to get into the swing of creating non-kit projects and to see if I can learn how to hand stitch in the straight line I am wondering about the second piece (back of the cover, slightly smaller than the cover piece). Is this piece somewhat optional, to be added if you don't want the backside of the cover to show the flesh side or perhaps to thicken up the cover if using the same weight of leather for the entire piece? I have cut out all parts except for this piece, as the flesh side of the cover is pretty decent and the cover piece is of heavier weight and doesn't need to be any thicker. Thanks, Clark
  10. Wow, that is neat. Very nice. Thanks for following up and showing the details of how this all fits together to keep everything dry. Cheers!
  11. Very nice Chris. I have been meaning to build a similar handlebar tool roll bag and have a question regarding yours. With the flap edge facing forward like you have is there a problem keeping water out in a downpour (we all get caught in them)? I was thinking of making mine with the flap facing back to shed the water but am curious if there was a way you have sealed off the flap. Forward looks better if you don't have a shield...
  12. Yes, plus...thanks to Gary, I learned a new acronym and a new word.
  13. Hi Brent That pretty much encapsulates everything that has been going through my head on how to complete this project. I didn't really want to resist the whole piece because I wanted a more natural look (not plasticized) yet still wanted the beauty of the antique. For some reason, as I have mentioned, the antique paste has colored the resist on other projects to some degree and it has lessen my confidence. I just might try that masking method that you mention, and slightly feather the residual antique paste into the untooled area. But then there are those gremlins and the bad karma to worry about.
  14. Hi Yes, I have done quite a bit of antiquing, percentage wise of what I have made up till now, and it's becoming a bit of an addiction...but it's the larger area that I was concerned with and trying to leave it untouched. Everything up till now has been mostly tooled so it wasn't a concern. I still enjoy watching that video though... along with the other videos that the verteran's in this biz have posted. Aaron, your mention of a medium heavy coat made me wonder if perhaps I am applying Neat-Lac too lightly. I was reading where you don't want a thick coat of the Neat-Lac so I usually do two thin coats as a resist. Maybe too thin. Hmm I am using the Fiebing's Paste...might cut it this time with Tan-Kote as I have been reading that that can help with the coverage... but that's another topic. Thanks for your help guys. I'll forge on and see if I can do this right. Cheers!
  15. Thanks Aaron What do I do with the large non-tooled area...just resist it too, and antique that area as well although most of it will be wiped up, and hopefully all of it? I did a smaller project this way and the antique paste affected the untooled area, even after two thin coats of neat-lac, which is why I am concerned. If I only put the paste on the tooled area some of the paste can make it's way to the untooled area. Perhaps I need to clean up the paste better somehow. Attached is the picture project pieces, to give an idea of of what I am struggling with. Thanks, Clark