cbeatti2

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About cbeatti2

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Calgary
  • Interests
    Leather-work (of course), guitar, motorcycles, industrial espionage.

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  1. Good point. I'll give that a go next time around, and be more cognizant of the use of the shader. Thanks
  2. Thanks. I "borrowed" the pattern so I can't really take any credit for that...and I do agree Brown64, some lift would help. I should get me some of those lifters, or fashion a few in the machine shop.
  3. Hey. I've been away from leatherworking/tooling for a while (and I don't really know why) but have decided to work my way back in, gradually building my skillset. Attached is the first practice piece in maybe 3-4 years. Feel free to critique, as I can use some feedback. The pictures don't seem to do it justice to be honest, but I guess they rarely do, like a photo of a mountain and actually viewing the mountain for real are two totally different things...not that this simple piece is all that majestic. :-) Actually I am sorta happy with it, being the first attempt in a long while. Thanks!
  4. Agreed. Very nice, and lots of intricate tooling there, without being too much. Keep it up!
  5. Yeah, that's what I have started doing lately (helps to get it deeper into the tooling) but it's still not where I want it...maybe I need to increase my Clear-Lac thickness, or apply 3 coats. I don't think I have tried 3 coats before....hmmm. A lighter color of leather would help too I expect. Thanks!
  6. Hello again. Thanks for the reply. I am using Fiebings antique paste, and leave the resist dry for 24 hours between coats and before proceeding to the antique. Lately I have been cutting the paste slightly with Tan-Kote. I have been buffing with trimmed fake sheepwool....trimmed to not reach deep into the tooling impressions. Here is a sample of two coats Clear-Lac (24 hours drying time between) and then some Fiebings Mahogany Antique paste (left). Middle sample is paste without any resist at all, and right sample is untouched leather. I was working through this previously using multiple samples, trying to get the results I was looking for. The sample is very small, about 2 in x 2 in. The photos of the projects were using Sheridan Brown Antique paste I believe. Some samples of what results I have had:
  7. Hi Would someone here be able to fill me in on how to achieve this type of natural finish look for the high areas and the burnished look for the lows on these pieces? I've tried to do this, using a few layers of resist (LCI Clear-Lac) then antique, but haven't been able to maintain the natural, almost un-oiled look of the high parts of the leather as the antique always darkens the resist to some degree. Perhaps the secret is in the leather itself (awesome burnishing properties) and there is no antiquing involved here? It's a look I would like to be able to create for some of my projects but it's been alluding me. These guys sure go to town on their tooling, and create some nice work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5udaOaTBkeU Thanks! Clark
  8. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll go pick a set before the sale expires...I need all the help I can get with my leather stitching. Tracing paper is also on sale I see. Clark
  9. Ah, I see. They cut a hole like a chisel (hence the name) instead of making a hole like the awl does... The awl makes a small needle hole that gets stretched out and therefore would also shrink and seal up. Good to know. Thanks
  10. Thanks Wishful. I'll probably pick it up then...I keep thinking I have all the tools I need and then along comes the next need, but this one is a necessity I think, but then I always say that. LOL. Clark
  11. Hi Does anyone have any experience with the Craftool Diamond Hole Chisel Set (Pt # 3009-00)? It's on sale ATM and seems like a good buy for a hobbyist like me but not sure if I should be using something like this or simply using a diamond awl and doing one stitch at a time as demonstrated in "The Art of Hand Stitching Leather", after using the stitch wheel. The chisel set seems like it would reduce a lot of the inconsistency I seem to currently have in my stitches. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3009-00.aspx Thanks, Clark
  12. Hi. I am working on this biker wallet to try to get into the swing of creating non-kit projects and to see if I can learn how to hand stitch in the straight line I am wondering about the second piece (back of the cover, slightly smaller than the cover piece). Is this piece somewhat optional, to be added if you don't want the backside of the cover to show the flesh side or perhaps to thicken up the cover if using the same weight of leather for the entire piece? I have cut out all parts except for this piece, as the flesh side of the cover is pretty decent and the cover piece is of heavier weight and doesn't need to be any thicker. Thanks, Clark
  13. Wow, that is neat. Very nice. Thanks for following up and showing the details of how this all fits together to keep everything dry. Cheers!
  14. Very nice Chris. I have been meaning to build a similar handlebar tool roll bag and have a question regarding yours. With the flap edge facing forward like you have is there a problem keeping water out in a downpour (we all get caught in them)? I was thinking of making mine with the flap facing back to shed the water but am curious if there was a way you have sealed off the flap. Forward looks better if you don't have a shield...
  15. Yes, plus...thanks to Gary, I learned a new acronym and a new word.