ClaireAshton

Contributing Member
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    125
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About ClaireAshton

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Shrewsbury UK
  • Interests
    Tall Ships Sailing, Road Cycling

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Small Goods, wallets, bags etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    improving techniques and others projects.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google Search

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  1. Hi, just for an experiment I split some vegtan very thin, about an oz. Made up a fully lined trifold to Steve Montelli specs and it came in at 0.25 inch fully folded. I wasted about 25% splitting it down, but it works. Bear in mind it was 9 layers of leather and 9 layers of lining. Bridle? Ask Nigel Armitage as he uses B r idle a lot and may have tried splitting it down very thin.
  2. Oh Bingo! Can't see the prices for anyone other than students. Guess I'll have to go back to school...... Looks promising though and only a mile or two from Tandy
  3. Very informative! Thanks for the link and I may well try and do something with them. Sounds promising!
  4. http://www.fineleatherworking.com/image/cache/data/tools/blanchard-indispensable-01-960x906.jpg I think this is the knife. If so the above is not applicable as it looks a curved blade. This needs to be removed from handle and worked in a circular motion initially and the in a curved sweep. Difficult to describe and best viewed on youtube. Try search ok n sharpen convex knife. Al Stohlman's book on Tools gives diagrams I believe. Treat it as small section of head knife. Good luck!
  5. Hi, Without being able to see your action, It's a fair bet you increase the angle momentarily at the end of every sweep as you lift off, thus ruining all the good work of the sweep. The best way to easily get round this is to stop with blade in position and then deliberately lift directly upwards. Ideally a jig with correct angle would solve the issue. Out of interest I sharpen the blade of my utility knife and I haven't changed it for ages and it is sharper than new. I just strop on leather and on papers to 12000 grit.
  6. I've got four. Got them on Ebay and refurbished them for use on thinner leathers.
  7. Thanks for all your suggestions, at the end of the day what I want to do is to have a go at making my own boots and just wanted a last to enable me to do that. The ones on Ebay in uk are unspecified sizes and look like for shoes. Ah well.....
  8. HI Tried using a PVA glue but still comes through even if left to very tacky on the flesh side of to slide cards out. Veg Tan . If left too longwill not stick at all. The lining is a beige colour and is quite shiny. Not willing, yet, to go down double sided tape route yet. First time lining using a non leather product, should stick to pigskin but trying to design to" Steve Morelli " specifications that is very thin profile yet easy to slide cards out. Steve has a You TUBE channel and all he does , seemingly, is to review wallets.
  9. Hi Thanks for the info. I think I'll give the LOBB outfit a miss at 5000 pounds 8000 dollars for a pair of shoes! The rhino lasts you have to buy about 50 pairs as they only sell full sets but at 1000 USD very good value for a shoemaker. The other one suggested do individual pairs but for cowboy boots. The issue I have is I had a serious bicycle accident, Mercedes at 60 mph and me left with totally stiff ankle. I went for some rigger boots once and needed 3 burly staff to pull off the bad side one, thoughts of cutting it off flashed through my mind. But back to now, my foot is deformed and I need custom fit. My feet aren't dainty, so mens work boots are more the size needed. I do remember something about a biker standing in some goo and waiting for it to set but I can't find it now. All suggestions welcomed apart from those including standing in sand cement mixes! Claire
  10. As the title , how do I make lasts so l can make myself a pair of everyday boots. I have heard ofof plaster casts, feet in jelly and so on -but I want to end up with a pair of wood lastsI can make the boot directly onto. HELP! Best Wishes Claire
  11. Found this on youtube... Wrap Wallet - The best wallet in the world, made in the USA:
  12. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56577&hl= A review of a leather supplier in uk
  13. Er, should I pack up? What is the world coming to? Next thing will be Machines that can stitch leather instead of by hand.......
  14. Hi, My take on this quite simple. You can't dye brown yellow. You can dye it browner or combine with a colour to give green or black or red etc. Light Blue is next to impossible and as above, as soon as light gets to it it will darken. So with veg tan it is start with as light a hide as you can find and make sure uv protection is in finishing coats - or - go down the coating route. Effectively paint the surface with an acrylic such as Tandy Cova Color. I recently did a bag in red, white and blue to be patriotic (No! The Union Flag for the UK). The red and blue airbrushed ok with dyes but the white had to be surface. If you go down this route for yellow, apply many coats very thinly as cracking is an issue with anything lying on the surface. Best of luck! Claire Sorry! Missed Twin Oaks reply which pretty much covers it.....