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About MrLentz

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  1. Hey thanks for all the tips! I will probably go ahead with it and plan to use a cutting mat for the knife. It's long grain, so not quite as nice as the end grain described. I have a couple laminated tables, so it'll be nice to have something wooden that looks a bit better!
  2. Hello, I am putting together a workbench to function as a multipurpose space for tooling leather, assembly, stitching, and a little dyeing too. I have access to a lacquered maple butcher block style table top and was wondering if there are any pitfalls about a lacquered finish with regards to general leatherworking? I hear lacquer is a very strong finish, but also tends to be thin and can scratch after some time. I will be tooling on a granite block inset into the table so there's no damage happening there. I might use the table top to bevel edges now and then. Is lacquer a good choice for a table top or should I go with a laminate instead? Thanks!
  3. Leather Work Gloves?

    Great - thank you for the tips! Welding gloves are a great idea.
  4. Hello, I have been trying to find some very durable leather gloves for more intense yard clearing. The ones I find at most stores wear out quickly and just aren't that great! Does anyone know where to find the real good quality cowhide gloves that say farmers/ranchers use that can hold up to quite a lot? Thanks!
  5. How to Heat a large workshop

    Thanks for the tips! I definitely was considering the closed cell spray foam insulation. It seems like that stuff is the best way to insulate these steel buildings. Though I believe it can be quite costly...but worth it in the longrun
  6. Hello! I have been working out of a small space for quite a while, but recently have the opportunity to move into a 2,000 square foot steel building. Yes I know - I could park a 747 in there. Most of it wont be used for production, but I was wondering how to heat the place for winter? Outside air temps are typically 40 degrees. It's got 18 ft. ceilings and is pretty much a large open space. I was thinking at first - using vented propane radiant tube heating. However, since this is infrared heating and heats objects....does anyone have experience with using this type of heating with leatherwork below? Is it a bad idea? I can hang them fairly high. The other option is forced air via one of those hanging units, or possibly a typical home furnace. That seemed a bit of a waste considering the size of the space and height of the ceiling. All of the hot air would go to the top! Anyhow - just looking to see if anyone has experience heating a space this large, especially for leatherwork and any considerations for it. Thanks!
  7. How is this seam created?

    That seems to be a good trick, though it does sound like a lot of work! Sorry to hear they donated yours to a thrift store, where's the decency!
  8. How is this seam created?

    Ah yes - because you can rotate the needle direction on those machines. I need to use thicker thread though, but I guess that would be the tradeoff
  9. How is this seam created?

    Back before I owned a leather sewing machine I had dreamed up a few designs with the gusset seam as shown below in the photos (not this same bag, but just the seam on it). Once I got my first machine I quickly realized this style of seam did not appear to be possible using a sewing machine. It is not your typical seam, just an overlap of leather. I know it is possible to do this by hand stitching, but I had seen photos of this same bag in brown with what looked like a backtacking that a machine would have done. Is there a way to machine sew this style of seam I am just not thinking of (a patcher could do it possibly, but I have a regular cylinder arm and a flatbed consew)?
  10. Hello, As I continue to set up and use my new Cobra 4 sewing machine I have been speaking with the Leather Machine Co. to figure out a strange issue. I thought I would also put it up on here in case others have had the same problem, or in case we find a good solution, in which case - we can all benefit! Upon installing either the stirrup plate or holster plate, it is apparent that the needle comes down very close to the right hand side of the slot. On the holster plate the needle pretty much touches the right side of the slot. This is with the plate installed as far to the right as possible. In the instructions it says to have the needle more to the left side of the slot when using any of the plates. Basically a business card thickness between the left side of the slot and needle is necessary. If it is in the center or to the right of center you risk skipped stitches or frayed thread. - So far they have sent me out a new needle clamp that screws up into the needle bar. The new clamp did not change the position of the needle at all. - I then made a suggestion that perhaps the stirrup plate and holster plate need to be ground down on the right side to allow more play when installing. My reasoning is because the needle seems like it comes down center or just off right of center of the feed dog (when installed), and that the top stitch plate seems to be installing just fine as per instructions. I only have issue with the holster or stirrup plates. I am still waiting to hear back about that suggestion for grinding the plates down, I certainly don't want to patch something when there is a better way to adjust/fix though. Anyone else had to grind the plates down to fix their placement on these Cobra 4 machines? I'll keep updating as I hear back.
  11. haha, well as long as it is not a patch for a bigger problem i'm fine with it!
  12. Yeah - I am not sure, it did stop it from skipping. My guess is that when the outer foot is going up, the inner foot is pushing down - and due to how the linkage is set up there must be some lateral force on the outer foot bar with the spring. Both feet use that same spring for tension, so the inner foot looks like the lateral force is counteracted by applying equal force using the bushing against the wall. Without enough pressure on the bushing plate, the rod probably bends ever so slightly. Same with too much pressure is my guess as well.
  13. Ok, just to clear this problem up - it has been solved. Leather Machine Co got back to me after seeing the videos, it turns out the problem had to do with the steel plate on the inside back of the case where a roller bearing rolls up and down it as the presser bar lifts. Turns out the plate was not close enough to the bearing, so I loosened the top screw on it, applied pressure pushing it closer to the bearing, then tightened the screw back down. Problem solved!
  14. Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I am getting back in touch with them to keep troubleshooting this. I know from this forum they have good support which is why I chose to buy from there. I have wiped out the interior of the case and oiled every moving part, so it's probably a bit more technical at this point. Here are two videos of the stutter.