Mark842

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  1. Not sure what the actual calculation is for tonnage per linear inch. I can tell you from experience that I can click 25-30 linear inch dies with 24 hole tubes included in the die on a 10 ten press easily with 12 oz or less. I currently own a 25 ton and 20 ton. Been my experience with clicker presses that if you have a large die that the press won't successfully cut in one shot, just hit it several times. I have some very involves dies that are couple hundred linear inches. I hit it 3 times per cut with either press moving the swing arm over the length of it as I go. Been doing this for years, doesn't hurt the die or the press. As far as the manual press like the weaver or a home built harbor freight one. I know people that have both and love them both. Whether you should go with manual or hydraulic IMO depends more on what you need in quantity. Obviously with a manual press like the Harbor freight adapted one you will be pumping a hand jack for each cut. If your only cutting a couple of items a day this is an excellent affordable solution. My friend did this, bought some 12" square by 1/2" thick steel plates off someone on eBay for a stable top and bottom with a cutting board on the bottom to protect his blade and he can click anything I can click. Only difference is I can click out a whole run of product..70 - 80 units in about 30 minutes. In the same amount of time he could probably do 2-5 depending on the die size and how many times he has to use it. If your lucky you may have a distributor for presses in your local area like I do. When I asked them about tonnage needed they told me bring down my dies and take a few for a test drive. If you don't have any dies yet, most have some basic dies for you to try that will give you an idea. My most involved die, over 250 linear inches worked with a Signature brand 10 ton. I just had to hit it 5-6 times.
  2. Another issue I see with your attempt is you are using a rounded corner on the outside edge and a 90% on the inside. This doesn't make it impossible but it does make it harder.
  3. Just FYI...there should be a small set screw on the barrel of the swivel knife that allows you to remove that blade and change it out. Lots of options in metal and ceramic blades. Some swear by ceramic or ruby blades and some like me just like plain old metal blades.
  4. I think for the most part Feibings is the most widely used. I am personally a big fan of Angelus products also. As for what your major tanneries use, good luck finding that out as it considered trade secrets and it is why some leathers are light years above others in quality. If they let people know how they do it we would all be doing it ourselves.
  5. With the photos supplied I don't believe it is. You will have three bars on a walking foot. One for the needle, one for the inner foot and one for the outer foot. It appears to be a one piece presser foot in the photos. The attached photo is walk a walking foot looks like. The one your looking at might just be a needle feed.
  6. Yep, thought about doing that and then I found I could get a new set with a smooth bottom and the split for $10. Yeah, I'm sure I would get used to it over time. I have 3 other machines that all have a split foot so that's just what I'm used to. I've been doing it by pulling it back down with the bobbin thread. It's just trying to get my fat fingers to fit under the 7/16" lift and I know, I can easily grab it with a tool of some sort...once again, just what I'm used to. Did a bunch of sewing with it today and it sews like a champ.
  7. Thanks guys, your making me feel better about the $1500. So far my only complaint with the machine is the small bobbin size and that inner presser foot is not split in the front so every time I change thread I have to use an awl to pull the thread threw the presser foot before pulling up the bobbin thread. So along with the new servo motor and speed reducer I have a new set of smooth bottom presser feet with a split inner foot on its way. The small bobbin...oh well, just have to deal with that one.
  8. Hi, to answer you literally you might try Angelus brand acrylic paints. Paint the letters the color of your choice and then seal them with your resist of choice. Everyone has their favorites, mine is liquitex varnishes, either matt or satin depending on the finish you want. After you seal the letters you can then dye the rest of the leather and if your resist does its job the dye will just wipe off the painted letters. If your not looking for an actual different color letter, like red on black, you can use an antique dye that highlight all stamping, toolings, cuts, etc.
  9. I run a motor burnisher, variable between about 2000 to 3500 RPM. On one side I installed a holder that would fit a standard 2" diameter sanding disc, the other side a standard hardwood burnisher..pick your favorite brand. On the side with the sanding wheel mount, instead of using it as a sanding I have a 4" long section of canvas fire hose. 2" of the fire hose is soaked with saddle soap, the other 2" is packed with bees wax. I sand my edges smooth on a separate belt sander, edge bevel, run the edge over the canvas side at about 2500rpm, then go to the wood at full speed 3500rpm and then the wax side of the canvas at 2500rpm. puts a nice smooth shiny slicked edge on a belt in about 2 minutes from start to finish.
  10. Wow, great info Eric! Thanks for posting all this. I've looked at some of this stuff over the years but have frankly been too intimidated to mess with some of it. Having it explained with pic's makes it seem less daunting. Mark
  11. Picked up another new machine yesterday. Have been wanting a post bed for awhile. Hopefully I didn't get screwed because I really couldn't find this machine anywhere in this configuration. All the 229 versions I could find online all have the roller feed. This one is a walking foot triple feed that amazingly enough doesn't mark the chrome tanned I'm planning on using it for. Sews real nice as is but the new servo motor and speed reducer are on order. It reminded me real quick why I hate clutch motors! Anyway, paid $1500 for it with a very nice table, k legs custom top and while I don't want it, a new clutch motor. Guess if I'm happy with it and it works all is good but hopefully I didn't pay too much for it. Curious for some opinions.
  12. I have the best luck skiving with a head knife and japanese style skiving knife. I lay the leather flat on marble and use the marble to steady the angle of my knife. I find my head knife works better on veg tanned/latigo and the japanese style on thinner lighter leathers. Both knives need to be extremely sharp to get good results.
  13. Huh, Ok. Did not know there were different size blades. you might of just cost me more money...
  14. Curious what your edging that is requiring you to mess with other settings besides the knob for strap with. I run everything from 5-6 oz to 14 oz through mine and the springs that adjust for thickness do all the work for me. i've never adjusted anything else on it as it edges everything I throw at it perfectly.
  15. Hello, I believe what your wanting is the look an antique dye gives. It highlights tooling or stamp impressions so they look darker than the rest of the surface. probably too late to use it now on your current project.