renegadelizard

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About renegadelizard

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.havocgunleather.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florence, Ky
  • Interests
    Guns, Shooting, Hunting, Fishing, and Dirt bikes..

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Holsters

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  1. i would change it up just a wee bit...before you glue, burnish the edges that don't follow a stitch line...ie..holster mouth and toe...you can also stain the leather before you start working on it..before cutting out the pattern...black will make it a bit stiffer..you can also buy drum dyed leather for anything other than "normal" colors...its a huge time saver....I also burnish my edges bore i wet mold...wet molding is a violent process and the hardened edges hold up better..thants my $.02.....
  2. retention is a function of your stitch lines, and to some degree, the trigger guard, but i don't think i would rely on the ejection port to set retention...especially on guns with sharp edges...they will erode the leather and eventually give out...
  3. I agree, its just bling...one of the worst hosters i have ever been forced to use, had those slots in it...it was done to acommodate a third slot and to get it all to fit, the slots were so close to the stitch line and crammed together, that it was impossible to reholster the gun without it going out of battery...
  4. I typically mold ejection ports, but i dont do a whole lot of boning per se, i dont want the holster to look like the gun, i want to look like a holster...so i usually give it enough thumb and bone folder to sink it in and thats about it...
  5. when i make one, i do it like malabar does, modular design so i can make different holsters, mag pouches/speed loaders, etc to be able to swap it out...for the harness, i use a butterfly design and leave the straps extra long until i can fit it to my customer...only then will i shorten the straps, but i still leave plenty of room for adjustability.
  6. I had the same issue with W&C..i ordered from them several times, the first time the leather was incredible, the second time, it was okay...the last two times there was a lot of wrinkles and waste..and it was so dry my cobra class 4 had a hard time punching throught it...cutting was a nightmare...i called and complained about the last order and i was told that "sometimes leather is dry and try wetting it before you cut it, but be careful because it might discolor it"....that was the last time i talked to anyone at W&C...Roger Jolly now gets all my orders...
  7. and how does he make a holster with say a dark finish and white thread if he dyes so late in the process?.. I really like the way he cuts his leather, it looks a lot quicker than the way i do it with my pattern knife, but im not sure i could change...i sort of like my knife..lol.. he makes some very definitive statemants about how some patterns will behave, ie collapse, pinch the gun, etc.., i havent found this to be quite so cut and dry as he put it..
  8. ive run into some caimen and ostrich legs that were glazed with some type of finish, and when wet it just sort of washed off..and got sucked up by the rest of the holster...always test your exotic to see what its going to do...did you air dry or oven dry?..i seem to have less color changes when i oven dry...
  9. i though it was for a glock?..lol...nice inlay work..
  10. I dont do any boning on an IWB holster...retention should be set with the wearers belt...i know some disagree, but whe i first started making holsters, i boned in an IWB and when i put it on, i couldnt draw the gun out...due to the retention set by boning and my belt i had achieved a mechanical lock...after that, i just lightly block the holster and give it a good stretch after drying..even on my OBW's, i usually only bone the area on the front of the trigger guard...i guess i jst like the holster to look more like leather and less like kydex...just my 2 cents...
  11. I hear you...i once spent 5 hours mixing dyes, testing, drying, finishing, drying and drying again to match ring lizard to a set of green camo grips...i still have 10 or 12 jars of various shades of green laying around my dye station...
  12. Hey Matt, I get what you are saying, I do, and i think for LEO's one handed holstering is not a tactic, it is practical application of the tools were working with...a rigid holster on a gunbelt...duty gear that was made specificialy for open carry...what i was ranting about were these guys that want an IWB holster for a full sized sig with a p38 space modulator mounted on it, oh, and make sure it is reinforced so i can reholster it with one hand....
  13. I dunk mine to form, and I use the angulus 600 cut with water to finish, pretty much the same as resolene I think.
  14. You have a bunch of people who attend these civilian on patrol type courses, and inevitably there is some swat guy teaching some portion of the class, and at some point tactics get brought up and the swat guy tells about his tactics and the civilian hears what he/she wants to hear...the next thing you know, you have a guy asking for a concealed carry IWB holster that will fit a full sized sig with a laser, flashlight combo, with a reinforced mouth so he can holster with one hand...because the swat guy said tactical reholstering was important....i guess im just getting old...little things like this really irk me...like quad rails on an ar 15...why, for the love of all things Holy, do you need 4 rails on a carbine...it looks about as cool as a cheese grater....anyway, two handed reholstering is when you have to use your non firing hand to assist in reholstering your firearm..
  15. Wow...very nice indeed...with the harness straps..so they total 6 Ounces?...i was thinking of doing something similar but I was toying with the idea of using something like 4 oz latigo or maybe even so suede...like the military boot scuff from SLC... Also, would you mind sharing the pattern for the harness system?