• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About chiefjason

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  1. Assuming that is a pocket holster? If so, you don't want a tight mold anyway. Fingers will do the trick. A bag might deform the stamping, or some of the bags have patterns inside them that can transfer to the leather too.
  2. That's probably more than just 3 pieces. But not a complete 4 piece either. Two options. The back piece is grain side out so it can be stamped with flesh side to the body. That's the easy way, but I doubt the sheath is done like that because the belt slots are stitched. And the workmanship is too nice to skimp on that. Most likely the loop is 2 layers with a thin grain side out layer going just into the welt. And the main piece is grain side to the body. That lets you stamp the outside of the loop and would require the loop to be stitched.
  3. So I finally got talked into making a shoulder holster a while back. What can I say, I usually quoted high and got turned down but money talks. Made a couple of them since, including one for myself that I'm very happy with. I had a customer come to me with an odd request and I took it on. The closest thing to the holster I made is one Mattel made for a cap gun back in the 60's. The off side strap wraps around the shoulder and back to the the holster across the back. There were a couple other requests including wider shoulder straps. Short answer, he's not real thrilled with it. But since it was a special order he's not upset about it and just wants to buy a different strap set. Not a big deal. His main complaints were that it rode too high on his neck and the yoke was a bit too stiff. To my questions. I used 5-6 oz leather for the straps. Maybe slightly heavier on the yoke. I'm considering cutting the weight for the straps and yoke down more to make them more flexible. Good idea or not? Or what are you using? And I really don't want to go to fabric or nylon. Any secrets to how to get the yoke to ride lower towards the shoulders? Honestly, all of the ones I have made seem to ride high. But I've not worn anyone elses shoulder holsters so not much to compare. And he sent me pics and it rides considerably higher on him than it did on me. Because I wore it around the house one afternoon to be sure it was worth sending out. It also looks to fit tighter around his neck than mine, but I'm pretty sure my neck is wider than his. FWIW, he says he tried several adjustments and could not get happy with it. Which is odd becasue I liked it. Go figure. But comfort is subjective. So what say you? And I have a few pics if it helps that I can post.
  4. What he did. ^^^ If you wanted too you can angle the loop to change how the sheath carries. I use the same process for cross draw sheaths.
  5. Double mag holster/pouch

    One thing that "might" stop that flare is to make the top wider. Don't make it square. Not drastic by any means but about as much as the bottom looks like it flared. Because the bottom does not flare, the top gets pulled in when you shove the mags in the pocket. When I do mag holders I flare the stitch line at the top to give them a little more room so they don't change the shape of the mag holder as much. That said, looks good and I wouldn't think twice about sending it.
  6. Gaps in edge gluing

    It helps weld the contact cemented pieces together. I use a 1lb dead blow hammer. I pay particular attention to getting the edges. I'm usuing 8-10 oz leather so I just hammer straight on the edges of the holster. I have used clamps, linolium rollers, burnishers, etc. I start off with the roller and burnishers to get started. But since I started finishing with the hammer my edge issues are gone.
  7. The K, P, T, and CW series should have the same or very similar dimensions if that helps. I actually own a CW, a real one, and have done decent with it but they certainly don't fly out of here either.
  8. Looks good. Assuming you are going to use the belt loops? If you build the wrap to accommodate the belt you can just wrap it around the belt and it will hold when open. I built a 2x2x2 pouch that carries that way. Just a thought.
  9. I put it on last. Let dry. Buff out.
  10. "Can I have a discount?"

    The answer is usually no. However, I do have some scaled pricing based on shipping vs local pickup vs friends vs repeat customers. So I'll sometimes adjust my prices for those. Let's say I quote a local guy my standard price, he asks for a discount, I can knock $5 off because I build the shipping price into my price. He gets a bit knocked off, I don't have to ship and make the same amount. Random guy asking and shipping? They better be buying a lot, then maybe. It's happened maybe twice. Or I'll figure in that I only have one shipping cost and use the money saved to negotiate a bit. I tell them I price my stuff at the lowest point I'm willing to take for it on a single item. They can take it or leave it.
  11. Instead of tossing that one, try it as a cross draw. I don't usually do 4" like that, but once you go 6" or longer I push folks towards cross draw. But I also cant them. But the straight drop with the 4" barrel might work OK.
  12. s&w 38special ctg blue gun

    Watch the K frame molds. They have the exposed ejector rods and not the underlugs on most of them. FWIW, I usually have to build up a shorter barrel to make 6" barrel holsters. You don't need a lot of strength, just something to take up the space to mold it.
  13. Contrasting color thread

    Some dyes are worse than others. Feibings Pro Oil Dye does not seem to bleed for me, even with white thread. USMC Black never seems to NOT bleed. Might want to add about a foot of extra thread and hope the extra thread catches most of the dye that rubs off too.
  14. Burnisher attachments

    I have the hole master for my drill press and the round hand burnisher for molding holsters. The large end is great. I also use it for any edges that are not dyed. I've had both for a number of years with no problems.
  15. Burnisher attachments

    I get mine here. Love them.