chiefjason

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About chiefjason

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  1. Getting Black to Stay True Black!

    Fiebings Pro Oil Black. I have never had a problem with it on the grain side. Sometimes it takes a couple times to get the flesh side a good black, it wants to turn a blue if it's not dyed well. But even then, it usually evens up when I apply finish to the flesh side. I usually dampen my leather first, seems to help it go on better. I do a lot of holsters with uneven dyeing, I like the character. Except black, that is all or nothing. And the Pro Oil has never let me down.
  2. That would certainly be easier to pattern. I like it. This is the first time I have done it, so nothing is set in stone. The only reason I call it a mistake is I noticed it after stitching. I pulled all the stitching out, put an extra hole on each end, and re stitched. It was not how I intended it to be, but I still like it. A stitch or two and a good glue line will hold. Probably the biggest complicating factor on mine was how small the knives are. Not a lot of room for error, or room to work.
  3. I just finished 2 that were folded over smooth side out. I skived and buried the leather into the welt. Which means you have to shorten the welt to compensate. They came out OK but I also learned a few things. The black one was buried enough to secure with glue and a couple stitches. I got the brown one short and had to stitch over the top to get another stitch in it.
  4. Last leather holster I did for a laser I just brought the stitch line in front of the laser, but did not close in the muzzle. That give the gun/laser/light a shelf to rest on. If it's just for occasional use then the extra length of the holster to add the shelf won't be a problem.
  5. Shadow mark when using basketweave stamp

    I use a dead blow mallet so the mallet does not bounce too.
  6. Dwight's right. Those lights take so much of the retention out of the holster it's not funny. There are guys that do a good job with them, but it takes a lot of trial and error. And an optic, yikes. If I were to even consider doing that I would start with an Avenger style pattern to make it easier to cut a space for the optic. And I would strongly consider doubling my price. So either they walk, or it's actually worth my time.
  7. Flexi-Max? IWB

    Boy that is one pretty rig. Nice work!
  8. Holster leather

    All veg tanned here. But Chrome tanned is used in some IWB holsters since it's stronger for it's weight. It makes a thinner holster.
  9. Locking thread to needle

    I pull off more thread than I need. 6X the length I am stitching. Then pull several inches through the needles. No knot, no heating, just leave it. If several inches of it fray, who cares it's getting cut at the end. Is your needle at the very end of the thread and knotted to it? If so, try giving yourself some more room.
  10. Beautiful Sheath Ruined Furniture

    Do you know if it softened the finish on the furniture? I used to work in furniture and we had known issues with rubber feet on certain finishes. The rubber feet would react with the finish, soften it, and remove it when the object was picked up. To the point we told folks to use felt pads under the rubber feet. My guess is the problem is in the furniture, and that finish reacted with the sheath. I have a few spots on my night stand.
  11. WICKETT & CRAIG leather selection

    I was doing natural veg tan. So I can barely tell the difference in a cut and a non cut hide. Now if it was bridle or something that was dyed it would be a whole different issue.
  12. I only hand stitch. This is exactly what I do for my stitch holes. And I don't use a stitching pony. I just hold the holster and stitch it. Usually while in bed with a drink watching a movie. lol My only recommendation would be to lay a thin piece of cardboard under the leather. Sometimes the hole for the awl will imprint on the leather. I use 346 thread and 00 needles. Fingerless gloves for pulling tension so you don't get cut, I use original Mecanix gloves with the thumb and pointer cut out and the rest intact for pulling. Small pliers for back stitching and tight spots. A home made stitching palm for pushing the needle.
  13. I don't line my holsters. Anything you put a gun in will eventually wear the finish. I have a Sig that has serious wear on the finish from my t shirts. Nothing else touches those spots. If you do line a holster it usually makes a stiffer holster.
  14. Sealing Leather

    I use Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water to seal my holsters and sheaths. The are worn close to the body, over or under clothes, and get sweaty. No complaints on bleeding. And I've even worn mine in the rain, or days of camping in damp weather. I brush it on good until it bubbles up a bit, then wipe it off. I do the finished outside once, but do the edges and insides twice. If you want it to shine more, I use Atom Wax as a final finish and polish. Before any of that I apply a 50/50 mix of beeswax and paraffin wax with a splash of oil in it. This also helps water proof it and adds some oils back into the leather.
  15. How to customize a holster

    As an artist you either stay away from them or use a template. Circles are either right or wrong. There is no kind of right with a circle.