chiefjason

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About chiefjason

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  1. I ONLY do flat back holsters. With this one exception. My double mag holders are old school 50/50 molds. I cut, glue, stitch, then shove the mags in. I'm not saying you can't make a jig for this, I'm sure you could. I just found that it was quicker to drop back to the 50/50 for this one thing. I think the trick to jig molding the front is that you will have to use pretty thin leather to press down in the middle. Or, you could use the middle between the mags for some style of retention screw so you don't have to mold it all the way down.
  2. Shame you had to ugly up that holster with that pistol. I'll admit it, I've considered getting a used on to see if I can sell any. But I did now for my dad's HP .45, dang what a big freaking pistol. I've got drills smaller than that pistol. lol And yeah, if someone had money they want to get rid of no shame in helping them spend it.
  3. I moved to pull the dot snaps after the line 24's were popping open at all the wrong times. PTD snaps have their own issues though. They need to break in a bit before they get smooth. And they relationship between male and female part can cause them not to work occasionally. If you don't get the post set low enough, or use a small enough screw it will interfere with them setting. After reading Lobo's post, I might have to look into this snap issue. But so far, I like the PTD snaps when the snap is required to hold something securely, like IWB loops, horizontal snap mag carriers, or straps for a woods gun. But I use line 24's on thumb breaks, some accessories, and less important snaps.
  4. Oil or not?

    I use a oil/bees wax mix that I apply with some heat. 3 light rubs of this mix and heated to absorb on each side. Seems to work really well. Belts and straps I outright oil, and might do the oil/wax too. I like how it darkens and deepens the color too. The only time I don't oil is if someone wants a really light tan. The oil just ruins that.
  5. Thumb Break Shoulder Holster 1911 Pattern and Advice

    A lot of things sound good in theory. But in practice not so much. If he wears it OWB a lot the holsters will bend to his waist. That is going to be less comfortable on a shoulder holster, causing the wings to dig into the side. IMO, I would try to talk him into 2 separate holsters. I rarely ever do multi purpose holsters. Because they don't do both things well, they only do both marginally. Holsters need to be specific to the task at hand, and only one task IMO.
  6. Cracks on belt

    If you hand dyed that it may not be cracking, it might be lifting. When the bending exposes undyed parts of the leather and appears lighter. Drum dyed leather does not do that because it tends to be struck through. If you apply a light layer of dye with a dauber you can get a significant color change when it is bent. Not so much a defect as it is a characteristic of leather. The best way to avoid this if you are hand dyeing is to buy drum dyed leather for the loops. FWIW, I hand dye most of my leather. It all does this. My drum dyed leather does not. Just the nature of working with leather. You might be able to mitigate the issue by dip dying the leather instead of dying with a dauber.
  7. Nice. I've got a guy wanting one here soon. Just trying to work out the details. Was trying to work out the ammo loops and think I'll go with that style. I've done similar with large revolvers and it works very well since you can glue them on the backside to keep them in place.
  8. 8-9 oz will be fine. I used to order by the square foot from there and you don't really get much control over what you get. You may be able to ask them or tell them what you want. Now, if you order a shoulder or back then you have control over where you get the leather. Stay away from bellies, they are too soft. If I stopped ordering sides I would problem go to ordering backs. Belt bends would work too.
  9. I have used the same cross draw to mount to a chest strap for a chest rig. I can actually conceal that one but you have to button the shirt up. Wore it to my LGS and around for a little but just for giggles. Actually was not that bad, even driving with it on.
  10. Good work. I despise thumb breaks and revolvers. And looking at yours, I think I'm setting the snap too deep and it's catching on the cylinder. Note to self........
  11. Yeah, I've made about 6 of them so far. And used the same pattern for a stealth hunter too.
  12. After talking to him it was too crazy not to give it a shot. Seems the crazy ones are the most fun. This one. The S&W 500 cross draw. And one odd SOB holster I made over the summer. The normal stuff gets a bit boring and these mix things up.
  13. The French skivving knife looks a lot like a chisel. Mine is 1.5" wide. I keep it sharp enough to just press it right through 2 layers of 8-9 oz leather. Either would work great, Japanese steel is usually very good stuff. To the last question I use a #3 for general use on 2 layers or 12 oz and up single layer. I use a #2 on 7oz single layer and less.
  14. I'm calling it the "Smith Rig". My LGS called me up a few weeks ago to talk to this guy. I originally tried to get out of it but he kept telling me I had to do this. Talked to the guy for a while, decided to give it a shot. I mean, who doesn't want a NY reload for Desert Eagles? Since this is my first real shoulder rig I mocked it up completely with scrap leather. made some mistakes that I fixed in the finished product. The second mocked up side. The first one ended up flat side out, swapped the pattern for this one. Final cut. Todays delivery.
  15. Nice. BTW, I hope you had every bit as much fun as I did getting those rubber gaskets in the holster for the retention. As far as I can tell they worked. But what a hassle!