chiefjason

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About chiefjason

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  1. Want to save a little time and frustration? Edge and burnish that top edge on the front piece before you mold it. It works for me because all my edges are black. So I edge and burnish the entire top edge of the front leather piece. Mold, glue, trim. Any edging that gets trimmed off is usually to the trigger guard side and the pocket and front edge are still burnished and looking good. I always hated having to burnish that edge after I molded them.
  2. I've got some of these. Shipping would be a touch more than the actual cost of one clip, FYI. http://www.bluegunstore.com/MetalHolsterClip-CLIP5-273.aspx
  3. At least 6 time a year I'm asked about a gun I can't get a mold for. Heck, I have a guy driving an hour to my house to get a second holster for an odd ball revolver. He mentioned it on a gun board I'm on and another guy is having me make him one too. Can't make one for a Charter Arms 9mm revolver without the actual gun. I can't tell you how many holsters I've made for the Taurus PT111 G2 BEFORE a mold was out. I borrowed one multiple times and ended up just buying the gun. I make several holsters for guns most folks don't offer, but I had to buy the guns to do it. I find it kind of funny to see the guys that basically have the enter rings list as available. Those guys are doing what you are talking about I bet. Waiting until they have an order to get the mold. My guess is it's an easy way to answer questions without taking the time to communicate with someone. If they don't see their gun they can be on their way.
  4. Sorry, been a busy few days. Size is 9" x 13". Two punched holes in the top for binding in store. Colors are listed as Loden and Jade. They also have a sticker attached on the flesh side.
  5. Where are you, how big per piece, and how many? Do you mind green? I have a bunch of swatches from furniture stores. Well, probably from the manufacturer to send to the stores since they are all the same color green.
  6. As to line 24 snaps, IMO spend the money and get pull the dot's. Unless you like the potential for snaps coming loose. I was never satisfied with line 24's when I needed something to stay snapped. FWIW, pay attention to the post size on the Dot cap. Dot snaps are usually used with fabric in military applications. So they have several sizes of posts for the cap. If you already have line 24 snaps you can sub the cap from there and it will work with the dot female snap. Dot caps are pricey, I usually buy 24's and just use the cap so I don't have to guess as to post size. It's about the same price and I have 24's if I need them.
  7. More specifically 6-32 x 1/4" brad hole T nut and #6 x 3/8" flat head phillips machine screw. The machine screw has a tapered top to fit the snap better. Home depot will only have the silver ones. If you want black check here. You can get everything here but you will have to buy 100 at a time. IIRC springfield leather and tandy sell the snaps individually. https://www.ifithermoplastics.com/category/fasteners
  8. Beeswax should help. I apply it near the end to fill in any small holes left from burnishing and even things out. Grab a scrap piece and give it a go.
  9. I can see that on light brown. Mine is dark enough that any bleed through gets either mixed in with the brown or covered over. And I don't do a solid brown either, more mottled so that helps too. I tried brown edges and they always seemed to lighten up, so I went with black. But each style is going to have things to watch out for.
  10. All of mine get black edges. Specifically pro oil black because it burnishes well. Get really wild and edge it black where the hippo is and brown on the rest.
  11. Try getting the edges damp then edging with a sharp edger. It will partially burnish the edge as it cuts and may get you what you want.
  12. One of the few areas where I'll say I don't bother. With the belt running in and out, it's going to burnish itself or get roughed up. One of the other in quick order. I've never had a comment about it either. If I wanted to I have a burnisher in my drill press with a point that will get in there and burnish it. I just don't see the point.
  13. I dye first. Then stitch. After stitching I oil/wax then finish. The only time I stitch first is with dark stitching when I have a reinforcement piece or something to stitch before forming the holster. If you plan ahead you can still dye that piece then stitch with light stitches but you have to be more careful. It also depends on if I'm dyeing the inside of the holster I'm working on or not. If I'm not dyeing it, it's one less step. If I'm dyeing the inside I have to remember to pre dye the piece AND the inside of the piece where the stitches are going before I stitch.
  14. I put some denatured alcohol on a rag, turn the burnisher on, then run it through the burnisher. Seems to work fine when I need to burnish a natural edge. And that is pretty rare so it gets a lot of use with dye ahead of the cleaning. Basically, about the only edging I do is with black dye so I don't bother cleaning it unless I have too. And I usually check it by burnishing a scrap piece first.
  15. I wear gloves while I'm dyeing and burnishing. After about 30 minutes it's good to go. I regularly work a holster up in the evening and stitch it that night. And that is edged and fully dyed just a hour or two before sitting down to stitch it. The main problem is when I want to burnish a natural edge. I have to clean the burnisher really well. I go back over my edges with a mix of paraffin and bees wax to fill in the small spots that don't get burnished too.