Cascabel

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About Cascabel

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  1. I have always felt that some things should NOT be made of aluminum !! It is not strong enough for some applications.
  2. Interesting !!! I had not noticed the needlebar thread guide on my 4500, and had not been using it. Never seemed to cause a problem at all. I will use it the next time I sew something on the machine and see if it makes any difference one way or the other.
  3. My personal cure for that problem is to apply a suitable amount of pressure on the hand wheel with my right hand, sort of like a brake to slow things down, if need be. It helps a lot to have a huge wheel on the machine, and a small pulley on the motor, like what I have on my 42-5. Very easy to control that way
  4. I suggest after removing the head, remove any thread stand, lights or other parts from the top of the table, then turn it upside down, and slide it down the stairs on it's top. Just get in front of it, and let gravity do the work. Easy one-man job that way !!
  5. As far as negotiating stairs go, if your machine comes in a box, the head and stand will arrive separately if you buy new. Best to leave the pieces in their boxes, and lay the boxes down on their sides, and SLIDE them either up or down the stairs. Open the boxes AFTER getting it up or down. When I took delivery on my Cowboy 4500, I moved it up my stairs by myself as two separate pieces. I had to strap the stand to a hand truck in order to slide it, as it did not come in a box. I just laid the things down, and got behind them and pushed them up the stairs. If going down, just go down the stairs a few of steps ahead of the load, and let it slide down by it's own weight while you control it. I move heavy luggage up or down the same way. Have a friend standing by in case you need a hand, but there is not usually enough room on stairs for two people to work together, so the sliding method seems to me to be the best way to deal with the situation. Just be careful that it doesn't get away from you !! If your machine does not come in boxes, strap the head by itself to a hand truck for ease of handling. If it is a flat-bead machine, simply turn the table upside down after removing any thread stands, or other protuberances, and slide it on it's top.
  6. . Always bear in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" machine, and just because it is made of cast iron, and painted black does not make it a real industrial machine. Many of them are Grandma's old sewing machine that showed up at a yard sale. EBAY and Craigslist sellers lie !! The old domestic machines are excellent within their limitations, but none of them are real "Leather" or "Industrial" machines. A simple way to tell is that if the motor is the size of a man's fist, and attached to the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine. Real industrial machines have a motor the about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. And real industrial machines are NEVER designed to fold down into the cabinet like a domestic. They are much too heavy !!
  7. After I oil my machines, I always place a piece of absorbent fabric under the foot, and lower it on top of the fabric, and in addition, I lower the needle into the piece of fabric to catch any oil that runs down from the needle bar.
  8. Depending on where you live, there may be an industrial machine dealer nearby if you are near a large city. A great many of them have an assortment of old machines available to cannibalize in their storage areas. I am in the Atlanta, Ga. area, and found a couple of very cooperative dealers with available parts. You might have to go on a personal search through their storage area to find what you need, because they often have no idea what machines they have available, and very often nothing is cataloged. One of my dealers had 42-5 bobbins in stock, that I got because I had correct part numbers from on-line catalogs. There is a certain amount of small parts interchangeability, but you will have to determine that for yourself, as there are no cross-reference catalogs that I know of. Once it is up and running, you will find the 42-5 to be an excellent machine. Happy hunting !!
  9. In situations like this, I have always had good luck using the small hexagonal screwdriver bits. You simply turn them with a wrench while pushing them hard into the screw with the handle. You can increase the grip of the screwdriver bit by coating it with valve grinding compound. It makes a huge difference !!. If the situation permits, you can hold the bit hard into the screw using a clamp, instead of the handle and then turn it with a wrench. It only requires a small amount of movement to break it loose. Using the screwdriver handle tends to cause the tip to "walk" out of the slot if not held absolutely straight. You may have to carefully re-cut the slots a bit deeper using a small file or piece of hacksaw blade, if they are badly boogered up. Keep in mind that when buying replacement screws that Singer uses it's own proprietary threads that are non-standard, so you will likely need to get replacements from a Singer supplier, or get a friend to make them for you on a lathe.
  10. I have found that bobbin tension springs are sometimes over-tightened, which actually can cause loss of tension because the "bow" of the spring gets flattened out. Bobbin tension springs should be adjusted in SMALL increments, like a quarter turn at a time. This applies to ALL bobbin tension springs.
  11. I never had an issue with the 42-5 not releasing the tension, and I actually prefer this feature, as it allows sewing of anything I can fit under the foot, and causes no tension issues when climbing over thick seams. I have always just grabbed the thread below the take-up arm, and pulled out a few inches, and then simply removed the item after raising the foot. I also just use ordinary 135x16 and 135x17 needles in mine. I don't know if my machine was adjusted for these common needles by the previous owner or not. but I suspect so, or maybe adjustment was not needed. I was able to get spare bobbins from my local industrial machine supplier, with no problem. I think the bobbins are common to several different machines.
  12. As a point of reference, my 42-5 gets 5 stitches per inch at the longest setting, with no slop at all in the feed dog, so I suspect that is normal for a machine without excessive wear.
  13. Pullers are commonly available at tool rental places. Usually rent for about $5.00. Take a look at what types they have, and pick the one that looks most suitable. Just PAY ATTENTION while using it. Make sure it is starting to move the wheel before applying a lot of force. Pullers are quite capable of breaking things if there is still something holding it !! Look for any kind of end piece on the shaft with a screw driver slot in addition to the set screws before using the puller. I broke a wheel using a puller before I was aware of this. The part appeared to be just the end of the shaft, but was slotted for a screw driver. It was actually a large headed screw to keep the wheel from sliding off.
  14. I have gotten gallon jugs of sewing machine oil on ebay fairly inexpensively.
  15. Always bear in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" machine, and just because it is made of cast iron, and painted black does not make it a real industrial machine. Many of them are Grandma's old sewing machine that showed up at a yard sale. EBAY and Craigslist sellers lie !! The old domestic machines are excellent within their limitations, but none of them are real "Leather" or "Industrial" machines. A simple way to tell is that if the motor is the size of a man's fist, and attached to the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine. Real industrial machines have a motor the about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. And real industrial machines are NEVER designed to fold down into the cabinet like a domestic. They are much too heavy !!