Cascabel

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About Cascabel

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  1. Get a short screwdriver that uses 1/4 inch replaceable tips. Choose a tip that is a PERFECT fit in the slot, or grind a little to get a PERFECT fit. Use the screwdriver handle to exert STRONG downward pressure, and turn it using a 1/4 inch wrench directly on the tip. That usually works for me. If you have already boogered up the slot, then all bets are off !!
  2. Best affordable machine

    Words of wisdom, so pay attention !!
  3. Has this ever been done?

    I think what you are asking about is called a Reeves Drive. My metal lathe has one. It works quite well, but I'm not sure it would be suitable for a sewing machine.
  4. **Help Identify Machine**

    I'm arriving a bit late to the party, but I thought I would chime in on this subject. . Always bear in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" machine, and just because it is made of cast iron, and painted black does not make it a real industrial machine. Many of them are Grandma's old sewing machine that showed up at a yard sale. EBAY and Craigslist sellers lie !! The old domestic machines are excellent within their limitations, but none of them are real "Leather" or "Industrial" machines. A simple way to tell is that if the motor is the size of a man's fist, and attached to the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine. Real industrial machines have a motor the about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. And real industrial machines are NEVER designed to fold down into the cabinet like a domestic. They are much too heavy !! Another consideration is that the thickness a machine can handle is dictated by the fact that MOST, but NOT ALL machines release the thread tension as the foot rises either by the thickness of the material being sewn, or when climbing over a thick section like a seam. This can cause skipped stitches and a host of other problems, such as tangles on the back side. This applies to both domestic and industrial models. This is a feature of the design of most machines, allowing easy removal of the work from under the foot when raising the foot manually when done sewing. Some machines, like my Singer 42-5 can sew as much thickness as you can jam under the foot, as it does not have this tension release feature.
  5. Hand Crank Mechanism for Singer 29-4

    I just stick my finger between the spokes on the wheel on my 29-4, and spin it that way. Mine turns quite easily, because it's well oiled. Never saw the need for a hand crank on it. Mine has a treadle, but I never use it.
  6. New Cowboy 4500

    I was not aware that they currently have a brake built in to the motor !! Mine does not have that feature.
  7. New Cowboy 4500

    The hand wheel should turn quite easily. Look for something causing a drag on it. When the wheel is installed, there should be a small amount of clearance between it and thrust washer on the machine head.
  8. What about this machine?

    Always bear in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" machine, and just because it is made of cast iron, and painted black does not make it a real industrial machine. Many of them are Grandma's old sewing machine that showed up at a yard sale. EBAY and Craigslist sellers lie !! The old domestic machines are excellent within their limitations, but none of them are real "Leather" or "Industrial" machines. A simple way to tell is that if the motor is the size of a man's fist, and attached to the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine. Real industrial machines have a motor the about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. And real industrial machines are NEVER designed to fold down into the cabinet like a domestic. They are much too heavy !! Another consideration is that the thickness a machine can handle is dictated by the fact that MOST, but NOT ALL machines release the thread tension as the foot rises either by the thickness of the material being sewn, or when climbing over a thick section like a seam. This can cause skipped stitches and a host of other problems, such as tangles on the back side. This applies to both domestic and industrial models. This is a feature of the design of most machines, allowing easy removal of the work from under the foot when raising the foot manually when done sewing. Some machines, like my Singer 42-5 can sew as much thickness as you can jam under the foot, as it does not have this tension release feature.
  9. Capability of hand crank singer 15-91

    Always bear in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" machine, and just because it is made of cast iron, and painted black does not make it a real industrial machine. Many of them are Grandma's old sewing machine that showed up at a yard sale. EBAY and Craigslist sellers lie !! The old domestic machines are excellent within their limitations, but none of them are real "Leather" or "Industrial" machines. A simple way to tell is that if the motor is the size of a man's fist, and attached to the back of the machine, it is a domestic machine. Real industrial machines have a motor the about the size of your head mounted underneath the table. And real industrial machines are NEVER designed to fold down into the cabinet like a domestic. They are much too heavy !! Another consideration is that the thickness a machine can handle is dictated by the fact that MOST, but NOT ALL machines release the thread tension as the foot rises either by the thickness of the material being sewn, or when climbing over a thick section like a seam. This can cause skipped stitches and a host of other problems, such as tangles on the back side. This applies to both domestic and industrial models. This is a feature of the design of most machines, allowing easy removal of the work from under the foot when raising the foot manually when done sewing. Some machines, like my Singer 42-5 can sew as much thickness as you can jam under the foot, as it does not have this tension release feature.
  10. How to Ship Consew 206RB5

    If you are moving it yourself, and either can't or don't want to remove the head and pack it separately, (which is the best way), lay it down in the trailer or truck, rather than haul it standing up. These things are pretty top-heavy. If it is already laying down, it can't fall over and be damaged !!
  11. Sewing cinch straps

    Back when I worked for the airlines, just for fun we made up a test sample using passenger seat belt components to do an experiment with a tester used for testing the pull strength of cable assemblies. Passenger seat belt webbing is identical to automotive seat belt material. Surprisingly, the metal fittings broke before the webbing did. I don't remember the exact tension that we went to, but it was well over 10,000 pounds when it failed. We used a standard passenger buckle and end fittings in the experiment. Webbing is amazingly strong !!
  12. New Outlaw hand crank Boss clone

    I have always felt that some things should NOT be made of aluminum !! It is not strong enough for some applications.
  13. CB4500 thread guide mod

    Interesting !!! I had not noticed the needlebar thread guide on my 4500, and had not been using it. Never seemed to cause a problem at all. I will use it the next time I sew something on the machine and see if it makes any difference one way or the other.
  14. The clutch motor....

    My personal cure for that problem is to apply a suitable amount of pressure on the hand wheel with my right hand, sort of like a brake to slow things down, if need be. It helps a lot to have a huge wheel on the machine, and a small pulley on the motor, like what I have on my 42-5. Very easy to control that way
  15. Moving a Singer 241-12

    I suggest after removing the head, remove any thread stand, lights or other parts from the top of the table, then turn it upside down, and slide it down the stairs on it's top. Just get in front of it, and let gravity do the work. Easy one-man job that way !!