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About gottaknow

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  • Birthday February 12

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  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial sewing machines since 1980, head mechanic for CC Filson.
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
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  1. Technically it could be done, but a regular speed reducer would be much simpler. Regards, Eric
  2. If the machine is sewing ok for you, heel back on the pedal to apply the brake whenever you stop. This is a basic function of a clutch motor. I have a Juki LU 562 that does the same thing. Not really worth my time to find exactly why, but I've seen this on several machines over the years. The large cam that drives the needle bar will sometimes just rotate down due to its weight. Especially on a machine that is well worn and well lubricated. If your brake is set correctly, you should be able to stop the rotation of the machine. When I use a clutch, I always heel back to stop the machine. If the machine wants to creep a bit, it simply can't. Even if you've got some bent bars, if the machine is sewing ok, no worries. Regards, Eric
  3. Are you using a clutch motor or a servo? Regards, Eric
  4. Backlashing in the bobbin case is a fact of life. Over the years, there have been many remedies, some that work better than others. If you're sewing a long run at higher speed, simply slowing down a bit before you stop will allow the backlash to be taken up before stopping. The original backlash prevention for Singers was a very thin piece of fabric inserted underneath the bobbin and one drop of oil applied to this as needed. Cohesion did a very nice job of stopping the backlash. I still do this in the factory for older machines that don't have a backlash device in the case. The new (and older Juki's) use a spring device that applies friction to the bobbin. Their double needles use a coiled spring that pushes out against the bobbin to stop backlash. If you choose the fabric method, just make sure that it's thin enough not to increase the tension after inserted. Trust me, high speed garment machines will backlash 12" or so if no steps are taken at all. A huge mess ensues. Even a single drop of oil under the bobbin will decrease backlash. I also use aluminum bobbins whenever possible. The difference in weight makes a real difference. Regards, Eric
  5. In the factory we simply rewind it onto a new cone with a really handy rewinding machine. It does 4 cones at once. Regards, Eric
  6. Hi Eric,

    See other Monarch. This one was their 2nd generation & judging from the fact it was stitched with 100% cotton and that style Talon this particular one was made either during or shortly after  during WW-2. 

    With ever so slightly larger back panel & larger sleeves. Thus, allowed for more movement. Than that just earlier (black) model

    Either model is okay with me.

    Cheers, Dave




    Completed Corduroy Lined Cuff jpg.jpg

  7. I zoomed in and it appears to have a walking foot. Buyer beware on one from a private party. For lots of reasons. Regards, Eric
  8. Happy Birthday!!!

    1. gottaknow


      Well thank you!

  9. The problem with an electronic unit, is you have no idea what shape the drive unit is in. For my tired Brother, it will do two layers of heavy webbing, but not three. Two years ago it would do three. Even with testing, if it's been in a factory, they are run 40 hours a week. That's a lot of cycles on a ten year old machine. My Brother 311 is new, and all we sew on it is labels on one layer of wool. Find one like that and you'd be ok. My 438 has spent most of its life doing heavy webbing on tactical gear. You just don't know what you're going to get. Regards, Eric
  10. Nice Uwe! We use Kessler tables which are height adjustable with a crank handle since operators come in all sizes. We also have some set for stand up operation. They are on wheels as well since we rearrange the factory quite often. Your design does resemble the Kessler a bit. Well done. Regards, Eric
  11. I have several pattern tackers. The most user friendly are the Brother 438 series. I also have the Juki 1900 series which are very reliable. I'm buying 4 new Jukis this year, but I haven't seen them yet. I also have some now antique Mitsubishi's (1980's) that still work fine, but getting new pattern chips programmed is an issue. We set all of our labels with a new Brother pattern tacker which we can program ourselves. Each label size requires a different clamp setup which are about $700 each, and we have 6 different labels. The older Brother 438 has a very tired servo that doesn't like webbing very much, and goes into error. It will do lighter stuff all day. Buyer beware on any used electronic tacker. Regards, Eric
  12. I keep a couple of 269's around if we need some additional production. They can humble a lot of good mechanics. I'm old, so the first factory I worked in had about 15 of them. I don't mind working on them, better than the 2 Reece PWX42 pocket welt machines. I do like the simple design of the 68/69's. We use several in or luggage factory. I totally agree with Gregg on not buying a 269. Regards, Eric
  13. Wow. I haven't seen a US 160-20 for 30 years. Most were branded under the Lewis name, though made by Union Special. It's actually a single thread blindstitch machine. My memories are not fond ones. Keep that puppy. Regards, Eric
  14. Yeah, that's one there. You can see the advantages. Able to do inside curves, but lets the binding flow better. Regards, Eric
  15. That Juki Lk 1850 is a workhorse. I still keep one ready to go as a backup. That Union Special 56300 is a great machine. There are several model variants using the same casting. It has the best oiling system I've ever seen. Parts are available here in the States. I also spotted a feed off the arm chainstich. Can't tell the make, though it resembles the Singer. You have several overlock machines as well. Looks like you have a "bone yard" of about anything you need. Welcome to the forum! Regards, Eric