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About gottaknow

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  • Birthday February 12

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial sewing machines since 1980, head mechanic for CC Filson.
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
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  1. As Bob said, it's a copy of the Singer 231-7, 231-8. I still use one for felling medium weight fabric. Not built for denim because there is no front needle guard (important to chainstitch machines for heavy work). Fairly easy to work on as chainstitch machines go, but without a manual, you won't be able to make all the settings. Nothing at all like a lockstitch machine, but as Uwe stated, for the price it could be an interesting challenge. Regards, Eric
  2. Glad that worked out for your. I still use a couple machines with Quick Rotan set ups. They seem to just keep going! Regards, Eric
  3. I've seen one of those machines at a dealer in Seattle. It wasn't for sale, he felt sorry for the guy and took it on trade. There are a large number of Russian immigrants in the Northwest. Apparently this guy hauled this head with him. It went to the scrap yard as we figured the best place to get parts was in a landfill in the former USSR. Regards, Eric
  4. Hello, I'm new to the leatherworker boards and just acquired a Singer 111w117. It is missing the cutting attachments, and I saw an old post that you may have had a source for those missing parts. I'd be grateful for any information you could supply. Have you been able to find an actual MANUAL for the 116/117? I can find the parts list readily, but not an actual manual. Some are saying the stitch lengths are adjustable; others are saying not. I'm new to the 111 class, period, and it is a bit of a different beast. I don't see how the stitch length would be adjustable, but that won't matter to me - what it does is beautiful right now. :D  Thank you! Heather Stiletto

  5. Hemming folders come in two styles. Turn up and turn down. The turn up are the easiest to use, but your outside of the hem ends up with the bobbin thread. It can be more challenging to make it look good on canvas. Turn down folders create beautiful hems, but have a steeper learning curve. What ever you decide, make sure the folder is big enough to handle any seams you'll need to cross. A way around that is to use a swing away mount to pull it out of the folder in order to cross a seam. As a general rule, I always mount hemming folders on swing away mounts. When ordering, specify the desired finished width and the turn under amount. On a typical 1" folder, you'd typically specify the turn under amount as half the finished size. So for a 1" hem, your turn under would be a 1/2". That means you'd need to add 1 1/2" to your desired finished project size. Regards, Eric
  6. No worries mikesc. We serge as much as we can on woven goods. Company I work for has been doing production since 1889. We guarantee every garment for life. That's why we do it. For life is a long time. Regards, Eric
  7. When garment leather is joined to woven fabric, for example denim, it is always serged. Not because the leather frays of course, but because denim does. We serge lamb skin collars to heavy wool. Small round point needles do a fine job joining lightweight leathers. We serge every thing we can in the factory to eliminate bobbin changes and to build stretch into garment seams. But yeah, most hobbyists have no use for one. Regards, Eric
  8. John Price at Atlanta Att. is one of the most knowledgeable folder guys I've ever dealt with. Their folders are works of art. Regards, Eric
  9. I make a living getting industrial machines to do things at high speed and often things they weren't intended to do. Home machines make decent door stops. Regards, Eric
  10. We buy the Kessler hand crank tables. They are good quality, come in countless configurations, but cost about $1100. My GoreTex seam sealers are on pneumatic lift and tilt tables. Considering the entire units are 40K each, I imagine the table itself is quite expensive. I do have one table for a Reece 104 that is actually hydraulic for raising and lowering. Interesting design, but way overkill for it's purpose. It's a matter of want vs need I guess. I do love the locking casters on the Kessler tables. We rearrange the factory often as styles dictate, the casters are priceless. That's a pretty spiffy set up in that video though. Regards, Eric
  11. No problem Brian. I still have so much information I'm planning on sharing as time permits. It's a shame to have it just sit here in my file cabinets. Regards, Eric
  12. Here's a Variostop manual from 1976. Page 2 has all the information to let folks know which motor they have. Regards, Eric Variostop.pdf
  13. Here's the Variostop manual from 1976. Page 2 is useful to tell you exactly which motor you have. In there day, these were top of the line. I'll post this manual here, but I'm adding it to my information thread I started a bit ago. Regards, Eric Variostop.pdf
  14. I had the pleasure of completely retiming one of those that had been taken apart by a novice. Not the funniest thing I've ever done.
  15. This is about half of my SnapOn screwdrivers. I keep a duplicate set in our Seattle factory so when I fly over to help out or teach, I don't have to put my tools into checked baggage. Saves a ton of time at airports. In the old days, (pre 911) I would just carry them on in an attaché. Some of the handles in the picture have been around since the 80's, with the blades being replaced when they begin too get dull. I always start out an apprentice mechanic with a set as well. I like their electronic series because they are not flared out at the blade tip. There are a lot of places on machines where the taper won't fit down a set screw hole. I buy those in 1/16", 1/8" and 3/16" blade width. The larger screwdrivers have a hex built in just below the handle. You can use a box end wrench to apply some serious torque to pop a stubborn screw loose. Regards, Eric