• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About gottaknow

  • Rank
  • Birthday February 12

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial sewing machines since 1980, head mechanic for CC Filson.
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
  • How did you find

Recent Profile Visitors

7,902 profile views
  1. John Price at Atlanta Att. is one of the most knowledgeable folder guys I've ever dealt with. Their folders are works of art. Regards, Eric
  2. I make a living getting industrial machines to do things at high speed and often things they weren't intended to do. Home machines make decent door stops. Regards, Eric
  3. We buy the Kessler hand crank tables. They are good quality, come in countless configurations, but cost about $1100. My GoreTex seam sealers are on pneumatic lift and tilt tables. Considering the entire units are 40K each, I imagine the table itself is quite expensive. I do have one table for a Reece 104 that is actually hydraulic for raising and lowering. Interesting design, but way overkill for it's purpose. It's a matter of want vs need I guess. I do love the locking casters on the Kessler tables. We rearrange the factory often as styles dictate, the casters are priceless. That's a pretty spiffy set up in that video though. Regards, Eric
  4. No problem Brian. I still have so much information I'm planning on sharing as time permits. It's a shame to have it just sit here in my file cabinets. Regards, Eric
  5. Here's a Variostop manual from 1976. Page 2 has all the information to let folks know which motor they have. Regards, Eric Variostop.pdf
  6. Here's the Variostop manual from 1976. Page 2 is useful to tell you exactly which motor you have. In there day, these were top of the line. I'll post this manual here, but I'm adding it to my information thread I started a bit ago. Regards, Eric Variostop.pdf
  7. I had the pleasure of completely retiming one of those that had been taken apart by a novice. Not the funniest thing I've ever done.
  8. This is about half of my SnapOn screwdrivers. I keep a duplicate set in our Seattle factory so when I fly over to help out or teach, I don't have to put my tools into checked baggage. Saves a ton of time at airports. In the old days, (pre 911) I would just carry them on in an attaché. Some of the handles in the picture have been around since the 80's, with the blades being replaced when they begin too get dull. I always start out an apprentice mechanic with a set as well. I like their electronic series because they are not flared out at the blade tip. There are a lot of places on machines where the taper won't fit down a set screw hole. I buy those in 1/16", 1/8" and 3/16" blade width. The larger screwdrivers have a hex built in just below the handle. You can use a box end wrench to apply some serious torque to pop a stubborn screw loose. Regards, Eric
  9. All of my screwdrivers are SnapOn brand. The tips are hardened which work nicely on hardened screws. For tight spots, I prefer 1/4" insert bits. I apply torque with a box end 1/4" wrench. If need be, I wedge a screwdriver on top of the insert bit for downward pressure. I also use SnapOn insert bits, they last the longest. I've also built many custom tools where nothing is available for a specific task. Regards, Eric
  10. bobbins

    3.5" above your cone is not nearly enough. From the base where your thread sits you should be at least 17" to the first guide loop. It doesn't matter how far it is to the winder. Even with smaller poly/cotton thread you need more distance. You could also add another guide between the first guide and the winder. If you do that, don't make a loop for the thread on the end of a wire. Your thread will throw a half-hitch around it and hang up. Use a longer piece of wire, install a guide at least 6" down from the top so it can't wrap around and get caught. Also, the older the thread, the kinkier it gets. I would start with getting your first thread guide quite a bit higher than it is now and go from there. Regards, Eric
  11. bobbins

    Two things come to mind. First, if the speed of your motor for your winder is too fast, you don't have a chance, especially with bonded thread. Second, most thread manufacturers recommend having the first guide loop 2 1/2 times the height of the cone height. For example, if the height of the cone is 8", the first loop the thread passes through should be 20" from the base where the cone sits. Thread needs a chance to unwind and relax before it goes through the tension disc. The wire loop also needs to be directly above the center of the cone. Oh, and lastly, high quality thread tends to behave itself better all the way around. (not judging your thread, just commentary). Regards, Eric
  12. Here's the Service Manual for the 1245. This is from 1989. Regards, Eric Pfaff1245Service.pdf
  13. I would avoid the Mitsubishi LS 2210. They sew just fine, but there is a design flaw in the tension release mechanism. A needle feed Juki would be a good choice. Regards, Eric
  14. It's funny you should ask. That's about the only part of that mechanism that doesn't break easily. I have several used ones I've collected over the years. More than happy to send you one. Pm me your address and I'll get one on the way. Universal Sewing and DSI Sundbrand both carry them as well. Regards, Eric
  15. The way they usually break is someone uses channel lock pliers to try and force the knob. The working part of the mechanism does tend to get stiff. As a matter of routine maintenance, I remove the spindle and shoot some oil in the shaft to keep things moving smoothly. One of the machines I'm rebuilding is getting a new hand wheel as well. I found original Singer shafts for $115.00. Regards, Eric