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About gottaknow

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  • Birthday February 12

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington State
  • Interests
    Art, music, sewing, photography, gardening

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Industrial sewing machines since 1980, head mechanic for CC Filson.
  • Interested in learning about
    ironicly, hand sewing, leather carving and stamping
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  1. I'm with Bob. If it were mine, I'd braze it in a few spots and call it good. Regards, Eric
  2. I love the smell of burnt windings in the morning... Actually, I have several vintage Singer 220 3 phase motors still in service. Best sewing machine motors ever built. I keep track of their condition with an amp probe. They all however have new wire from the motor leads through the fuse box and up to the feed rail drops. I trust the windings in the new Chinese motors much less than the older Singer and Amco motors. Regards, Eric
  3. Universal Sewing Supply sells that same part for around $13. Don't get ripped off. It's a common part. Regards, Eric
  4. Nylon thread cuts stainless, case hardened steel, anything it rubs against. In a home or hobby machine, you can replace it with about anything and it will last a long time. In a factory, I stock replacement eyelets for everything along the thread path. It's always amazes me what even poly/cotton thread will cut through. For years, Reece used porcelain eyelets on many of their automatic machines. It lasts a very long time and stays smooth throughout it's life. Regards, Eric
  5. I'm interested in not giving any advice on hook and awl machines. I've worked on good ones and horrible ones (usually after being worked on by someone else). Wiz's advice was spot on. I've always thought a dead one would make a great mailbox post. Regards, Eric
  6. Make sure the throats plate is on with the small tab engaged. If it still won't rotate, you've likely still have thread under your bobbin basket and you'll need to take it apart to clean it out. Have fun! Regards, Eric
  7. You likely have thread jammed between your hook and the bobbin basket. You'll need a short, small screwdriver to remove the gib screws (they are located on a flat piece as you look down on the hook) with that flat ring loose or removed, you can clean out the jam. Oil it and make sure you secure the tab on the basket into the notch of the throat plate. On that machine, you need to hold your threads when you start sewing. Have fun! Regards, Eric
  8. We are all waiting Wiz. Regards, Eric
  9. As split bar machines age, the mechanism that causes the bars to raise and sew independently are usually very small ball bearings inside a fixed needle bar set up. After time and pounding through hard materials, the bar/s that are in the sew position will "jump up" and then back down by themselves, leaving multiple skips. Split bars can work fine for many years on thinner materials, not so much on thicker. The reason yours are missing parts for the walking mechanism is that this failure could have occurred and to save the machine it was converted to sew lighter material. There's really no reason to destroy a double needle with a split bar IF it's working correctly. Regards, Eric
  10. It's a good candidate for a boat anchor. I would move on. Split needle bar machines are flawed even when brand new. Regards, Eric
  11. Probably not too well. The Reece S2 will only do rectangular buttonholes. Its big brother the Reece 101 or 104 will do keyhole button holes. Regards, Eric
  12. Nice work. Looks great! Regards, Eric
  13. Put the throat plate back on. Making sure the tab on the bobbin case is retained by the notch in the throat plate Regards, Eric
  14. The titanium needles are great. I use them on all my bartacks, memory stitchers, button hole and button tackers, as well as my heavy chainstitch felling machines. Best advance in needle technology since I've been working on machines. I've never checked Wiz, but are they widely available in the common leather points? Regards, Eric
  15. I seem to recall that Groz Beckert took over the production and marketing for Torrington in the early 80's. I'm not sure how long they kept the brand name alive, but I don't think it took them long to figure out the black coating was a waste of time. At that time, I was head mechanic with 350 operators. Stocking duplicate needles was a huge expense, so I just found the best way to keep needles cooler without them, which to this day is needle coolers with Silicone thread dip. The air is the most effective. Needles get hot at high speed and the heat increases with each piece sewn. Especially long seams with little lag time between pieces. If an operator is overlocking an underarm and sideseam on a jacket and stops to line up the underarm seam, the hot needles are sitting against the thread for a time and when sewing starts, the thread snaps. Silicone won't stop this, or coated needles. Air will keep the needles cool while they're just sitting there. Keep in mind, textile thread sizes rarely exceed T70. I've seen upholstery machines damage T135 without breaking it, but cause a small melted area. For those that sew faster, you may not know you're damaging your bonded threads unless you test sew as fast and as long as you would normally. Sew for a bit, feel your needle for heat. If it's too hot to touch, you're likely damaging your thread. You can see or feel a melted little blob with your fingers. For those that can count your stitches as you sew....never mind. Regards, Eric