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About pcox

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    hamilton mo.
  • Interests
    repairing sewing machines, mules, blacksmithing

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  1. grind them off
  2. I have seen many casting flaws over the years. I think this one slipped by the factory. They may have filled it but the patch fell out later. Repairing defects in casting is common in foundries. Really will not hurt the operation of the machine. I have Consew 28 It does not have a feed dog just a slot for the needle and inside foot to feed works well and does not leave marks on the bottom. Eric why does this have a feed dog with no presser foot over it?
  3. I have seen some with the needle set a little too far down and the hook protector deflects the loop causing the hook to miss it.
  4. put your thread thru a soda straw between the spool and the eye above it. It will cause the thread to unwind rather than pull off the end. I have the un roller types on my Randle and my Landis one they work great. They need a spring in them so the thread don't freewheel when you stop sewing suddenly.
  5. I really like my Consew 1206
  6. you need a lighter duty machine. You can do it with yours but it will need a lot of adjustments and a flat table adapter.
  7. I put petroleum jelly on the cork in the clutch to give it a little more slip. singer used to make a product for this. Seen it used first in the shoe factory I worked in 50 years ago.
  8. Those are the wrong bobbins. correct ones are flat on the sides
  9. I have a bobbin winder but you can chuck on end in a drill and support the other end in a small hole in the end of a table. run the thread thru a screw eye at least 3 feet away and turn on the drill. You are a blacksmith you will figure it out
  10. I have a consew 28 that all most never leaves a mark but, it is not a cyl. arm and it is not a walking foot like most think of it has NO feed dog on the bottom, needle and inside foot only it feeds well and is as close to no marks as I can get with a machine. You are asking a lot from one machine.
  11. I have sewn with 69 thread on that class machine. I use 7x3 # 18 needles but I had to change lots of adjustments . Needed lighter tension springs and change bobbin tension. Those long skinny needles flex a lot as you go over seams etc so you are going to break some needles. I didn't think it was worth the trouble. As said above maybe time for another machine.
  12. tip the machine back on the peg and it's right in front of you on the bottom of the pump. no tools needed just swing it open or closed with your finger. the hook lube adjuster is also on the bottom to the right of the hook shaft bearing. It is marked small or big, both adjustments are clearly covered in the manual (pg. 12 and 13).
  13. Wiz, yes, the oil has the wicks wet in the head and I can see oil in the clear tube that oils the bottom part of the head. I sew as slow as 2 stitches a second. but very seldom faster than the lowest setting on the servo. There is a simple little by pass valve on the pump and it is completely closed for slow speed sewing. This needs to be opened up to about 1/2 if you sew faster as it will over oil everything. the hook lube is adjustable. The external walking foot cranks still need to be oiled by hand. I have 2 other pumpers that do not oil well at slower speeds but the 1206 oils well at very low speed. Most of the main shafts are hollow and have felt plugs in the ends. if you touch them you get oil on your finger. I know this is not in line with your experience of pumpers but this one seems to work at slow speed.