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About cmantz

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  • Location
    Jackson, MO

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Custom Lasered & Embroidered Bronc Halters

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  1. I know this is an old post but if anyone is interested in purchasing acrylic templates specifically for tack (breastcollars, halters, wither straps, headstalls, etc), you can visit my website at or you can find me on FB at
  2. I am looking for a used Heritage foot press if anyone has one they would consider selling. I have the funds and am ready to buy!
  3. Has this been sold?
  4. Chad...yes I still have it. Let me know if you have any questions.
  5. HAHA I am headed there this weekend for a trade show. My main business is embroidery and screen printing and there is a show there.
  6. bwillielv Yes, I do still have this for sale. I have one person that has expressed interest in it. Let me know if you have any questions. You can email me directly at Where in Kansas are you located?
  7. I use Dreamtime Creations now. I think their pricing is decent on loose stones and defintely cheaper than Standard for the rim sets. Other supplier is Rhinestones Unlimited. I am going to look at them for just rhinestones as I think they might be a little less.
  8. Wow Steve! That is very kind of you! You are as awesome as everyone says you are!!!
  9. Artisan Toro 3000 for sale. Nothing wrong with the machine. The only reason I am selling is I would like to upgrade to Cobra Class 4. $1500 or best offer. Located in Jackson, MO (between St. Louis and Memphis)
  10. Ok...Here are two pics...I have a #22 sharp needle w/ 138 top and bottom. I have the main tensioner cracked down pretty good (I can see probably .25" of the threaded knob sticking out). Also, this machine seems REALLY hard to turn by hand. Is that normal?
  11. If the machine was sewing good with lighter weight thread, seems like I would have to loosen tension when going to a thicker thread?
  12. Finally got my singer 111w155 running. Had new hook put in and adjusted so now it actually will sew...well kinda I had 90 thread in top and bottom and it was fine. Switched to 138 and have some looping on the thread looks great. So need to figure that out. This machine has a clutch motor on it with a 2 1/8" pulley. Question: would switching out pulley to 5" pulley slow it down enough or do I just need to get a servo motor? If I need a servo, any recommendations on the best place to get one? Thanks
  13. When I back my nosebands with pigskin I don't burnish the edges. I use DuraEdge by Fiebings on these. Also, sew before you do your edges. Edges are last.
  14. was the problem on this first breastcollar (hence the ugliness of the back side)..I cut both the front and the liner and glued them together, Then I sanded the edges and sewed the outer edge when each piece was flat.. Then I added the center plate and sewed the tabs back, then attached the overlay. Definitely NOT the way I should have done it. The next set I did, I cut out the front pieces, finished the edges on the tabs and glued the tabs back. Then I glued on the piece for the back liner, stitched the outer edge, and then trimmed my liner...then sewed the overlay, finished the edges, etc. This gave it much better look from the back as the tabs are now sandwiched between the layers I am still so new! Thank goodness for help and advice that I received from so many! TwistedB...yeah...don't attempt this until you have a sewing machine. I have a boot repair guy in town that would sew my nosebands for me when I started out but honestly, there would be no way for him to sew tack sets as because it isn't something that you can put all together and then sew at once. As it is, my sewing machine is at home while all my other supplies are at the shop and that is a PAIN! As far as machines, I found a used Toro 3000 on this forum for a good price so I grabbed it FAST!! And it was an added bonus that it was relatively close to where we live so I didn't have to ship it or buy it without seeing it. The machine is adequate for my use. If I hadn't found this one and was buying new, I would get the longer arm. I have sewn all my life and this is MUCH different. And then factor in trying to learn about leather (which I also knew NOTHING about 8 months ago). I don't do this for a living...which is a good thing as I would probably starve. For the amount of time it takes to make these things, I don't make very much per hour that I put into these. Also, there is a lot of competition and such a HUGE range of craftsmanship. You see some really nice tack (Heritage for example) and then you see some GARBAGE!! I was at a barrel race and someone was selling sets really cheap and they looked really awful! 3/4 oz patterned leather on the top and probably 4/5 oz on the back and the tabs that weren't even sewn...just held back with conchos! And she was selling a ton of them. Sometimes I think customers don't appreciate the "extras" and just buy based on price. But I couldn't make tack like that and be proud to say that I made it.
  15. What form of the saddle soap do you use? bar, paste or do you mix with water? do you burnish while still wet? Will this work with a wood burnishing stick? I am still struggling with edges. I have tried the Fiebings Burnishing ink. Seems to work ok...but it doesn't seem to give good even color on the edges (I am using the dk brown). I have been playing with the gum trag for more of a natural edge. Also tried glycerin followed by parafin but that produced a "sticky" edge which didn't seem like it would hold up well as compared to the gum trag edge. I have a bar of the Fiebings saddle soap...need to get it out and give it a go. Also, for those with the cocobolo wood there a technique that produces better results? ie: faster vs slower speed on the drill press; move leather in one direction vs short back and forth strokes; do you want the burnisher to turn INTO the edge or AWAY from the edge?