the deacon

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About the deacon

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    chicago, IL

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  1. Excellent! Thanks guys
  2. Wow, never thought it would be tough to wrap my head around this. Looking for L and R presser feet for my Juki Ls-341. Can anyone offer guidance? I've seen a bunch of juki feet but nothing called out my model specifically. thanks deacon
  3. Thanks Wiz
  4. Hi all, I just got a Juki 341 and it does beautifully on both leather and canvas. A few of my bag designs have both leather and canvas (leather bottoms with canvas making up the majority of the bag) in which case one seam transition from leather material to canvas. I'm using 4-5 oz leather and 10oz-18oz canvas, 69 thread. For the leather I normally use a leather needle that is cuts a diamond hole. This poses a problem for the canvas as it cuts the fibers. Is anyone out there working with these materials and have found a needle that can be used for both, so that I don't need to sew the leather section of the seam, then change needles and sew the canvas section? Thanks deacon
  5. I didn't know that, thanks for the info!
  6. Looking for a bench type skiver (6" or 8") to do laps on 5-6oz chrome leather. thanks
  7. Thanks for the detailed response Tor. Have you used the CR or CSO on chrome leather?
  8. I've heard it's tough to skive chromexcel leather. I need to lap skive 5-6 oz leather for bag handles (about 7/8" wide straps). I know Tandy, Cowboy, Randell Campbell, Osborne all have skivers. Are there some that work better than others when it comes to chrome leather? Any tips or tricks? Any personal experience lap skiving chrome leather? thanks all.
  9. Hi all, This machine came up for sale near me and couldn't dig up much on it via google. I wondered if anyone has used it? thanks deacon
  10. appreciate the input Darren. The dealer is going to set up the machines I mentioned so I can try them out and see which machine is a good fit, great service. I've seen that Cowboy has an attachable table making the cylinder arm easier for flat goods. Does Juki have that option or can I make one for it?
  11. thanks again Uwe. I have a Juki DDL 555 that is a work horse and great machine, so I'm inclined to agree with you. The used Juki is $1900, about $350 more than the new clone. I haven't done any comparison shopping yet to know if these prices are middle of the road or not.
  12. Thanks Uwe. I should have mentioned that the Juki and Sieko would be used models, I can't afford brand new. The Typical would be a new machine. In case that information impacts the conversation.
  13. Hi all, I'm in the market for a cylinder arm machine that can handle canvas and 4-9oz leather for bags, wallets, and the like. I've been looking into the CB227R, Juki LS341 and Seiko CW8B. In my research I've come across a LS341 clone called a TypicaI. Has anyone heard about this machine? Any other opinions for the machines under consideration? the Juki, Seiko, and Typical would be from a local reputable vendor, I'd have to get the CB227 shipped. thanks deacon
  14. Thanks Ole South and everyone else. Making the move from wovens has proved a touch difficult. Here is an image of a few woven seams and their names. Not pictured is the basic straight stitch (right sides together with a single stitch) or the french seam (where the edge of the seam allowance is encased in the seam allowance, so no fraying edges show). It seems terms like french seam and lapped seams mean something different depending on if one is using wovens or leather. I will take your advice Ole and embrace the more simplicity of leather stitching. I am going to do more experimentation using the glue and clamp method and check out the results. What little machine leather knowledge I have came from a garment leather worker who used thinner lambskin. It was he who said to glue the seam allowances open after stitching to attain a crisp, clean seamline. It appears that advice mainly pertains to those thinner weight leather? What are the pros and cons to using 1/2" seam allowance vs. 1/4"? Thanks for the great discussion all.
  15. Beautiful work TinkerTailor, the image helps. Interesting, in soft goods manufacturing "darts" describe the take up of excess fabric to shape, thanks for the heads up. Also thank you for the pointers to use glue. I was under the impression in order to get a clean flat seam when you machine stitch leather right sides together malleting the seam open is necessary. How can this be done if the seam allowances are glued together? I have some Master contact cement that shoe makers use which has worked well. Stuff is mighty powerful smelling though. any tips on the best way to stretch and manipulate the leather around tight curves? In the fabric industry we use thinner seam allowances (1/4") around curves to facilitate smoothness, would the same apply here?