Hunhunt

Members
  • Content count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Hunhunt

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    woodwork, leatherwork, birddogs, horse training

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Mission oak furniture upholstery, shoe making
  • Interested in learning about
    leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google search

Recent Profile Visitors

3,622 profile views
  • ljk

  • wnb

  1. Advice on a skiving tool please

    I've never tried plane irons but I have used wood skew chisels. The main problem with woodworking chisels is that the handles limit how low an angle you can use in making the skiving cut. I generally use a very low angle. Another thought would be to try using a power hacksaw blade if you know a machinist who is replacing an old blade. The steel should be very good and the price would be right.
  2. Advice on a skiving tool please

    Get it really razor sharp and then keep it sharp by frequent stropping. I have leather stropping wheels on my Tormek sharpener but you can do the same thing by mounting a piece of vegtan scrap leather to a flat surface. I rarely have to resharpen with the grinding wheel since I use the stropping wheel frequently. It is amazing how fast leather can take the razor edge off a cutting tool.
  3. Advice on a skiving tool please

    There is a very good Lisa Sorrel video on the use of these skewed type skiving knives. I have one that I got from her that I really like. Has to be kept absolutely razor sharp to work efficiently. It works far better than the Tandy's skiving tool (super skiver).
  4. Leather for Shoemaking and Tools

    You might check out the video series available at this website: http://www.healthyhandmadeshoes.com. It takes you through the entire shoe making process using the simplified stitch out (stitch down) sole construction method. It is a very simplified process and you can always modify what you learn from the video to suit your needs. As far as leather, I use 5-6 oz chrome tanned leather for shoes that is often sold as "chap leather". For the midsole you will probably want to use a vegetable tanned leather (I use 8-9 oz). Other materials you might use would be plastizote for the insole and crepe which is sandwiched between the midsole and the outsole. I use synthetic outsoles (Vibram) as I find leather outsoles to be too slippery.
  5. Wood stain for leather.

    Since I am primarily a woodworker rather than leather worker, I keep a lot of wood stains and dyes stocked. I've always avoided pigmented wood stains (think thin paint) for leather since I am afraid the results would be blotchy and unnatural looking. I actually don't use pigmented stains much for wood either. I prefer aniline dyes for wood to get a more transparent finished look. I've used the same dyes on leather with good results. The dyes I use are primarily water or alcohol based. I do apply a finish (Tandy's Eco-Flo Professional) over them to avoid any bleed-out. I recently used some Fiebings leather dye on a leather project and liked the results I got. It seems like the Fiebings dye was more color fast when applying the finish than the wood dyes I've used.
  6. Electrathon, thanks for the tip on shoedo.com. Lasts are indeed the hardest thing to come up with for the amateur shoe maker. I've been buying used lasts off ebay and reshaping, repairing for my use (I'm a woodworker too). Unfortunately, it's not easy to find the Munson lasts I prefer and my collection is far from complete with regards to sizes. Shoedo.com has some very interesting looking lasts on their website. Here's an example of some shoes I recently completed on a pair of Munson lasts.
  7. Walnut flooring?

    I generally drop contact cement instead of dye on the concrete floor of the barn tack room. Makes a pretty big mess. Which is why I'm banished to the tack room for gluing.
  8. Southern Idaho

    Welcome from a fellow southern Idaho leather worker. This forum has been a tremendous wealth of information for me. Don't know if you are aware of it but southern Idaho has some of the most outstanding saddlemakers in the country including Dale Harwood (if he's not retired) and Carey Schwartz. I have one of Carey's saddles and can vouch for the quality craftsmanship that goes into them. As I recall, he offers some instruction including a video series. You can check out his website. I started learning how to make shoes as a result of this forum and a video series I found on-line. It's a hoot.
  9. manual shoe press

    Another option that is less expensive if you aren't making a lot of shoes is the old LA Macker type presses. The pressure is applied through an acme screw thread. They show up on Ebay frequently. I payed less than $100 for mine and have been gathering various press forms for it as they come available. The press works fine.
  10. I've used 9 - 10 oz bridle leather from Waterhouse Leather for belt making. Was very pleased with the leather. It is very waxy, minimal stretch, and wears very well.
  11. Leather Boots In The Pacific Northwest

    Horween Predator leather is an extremely oily, waxy leather that I have used in shoe/boot making. It is difficult to glue because of all the oil (contact cement seems to remain "gummy" for awhile) but once everything has been sewed up it works fine. Predator may work good for your application. Some of the Crazy Horse leather that I have purchased from Zack White Leather has been almost as oily/waxy as Predator. The last Crazy Horse "dark brown" that I got was like this. It does have a sort of sanded surface which may not be your preference.
  12. Henry still had some size 5 needles when I ordered a few from him this past month.
  13. I have now successfully used both .8mm and 1mm Tiger thread. I used a size 5 needle with the .8mm and tried both a size 6 and size 7 with the 1mm. I prefer the look of the 1mm to the .8mm for outstitching shoes and I'm now using that exclusively. The size 6 needle worked fine with the 1mm thread. If I was using a particularly dense leather or for some other reason having trouble getting the knot to draw up into the stitch then I would switch to the size 7 needle for the slightly larger hole. There is not a lot of difference in the size of the 5-7 needles. Initially the hole seems quite large for the thread but as you press the edge down for gluing the sole to the midsole the stitching fills in nicely. Don't know about stitching through an additional layer of rubber outsole as I haven't tried that. You may have to go to a larger needle to do that. As far as the force required to do it I can only say that stitching through 2 layers of 5-6 oz leather (heels counter + upper) and 9 oz of hard temper midsole is effortless. It has lots of mechanical advantage.
  14. Thought I'd follow up with what I've learned so far with the machine. The ancient linen thread that came with the machine would break (upper thread) every time I tried to use it while trying to draw the lower thread up into the leather. While I waited for new thread to arrive I decided to completely clean the machine to remove all the sticky accumulation of gunk from all the years of previous use. Turns out gun cleaning solvents work great for cleaning away all the gunk (tested them on the underside of the base of the machine first). Then I loosened the bobbin tension slightly and tightened the upper tension some. I had decided to start off trying "Tiger" thread since the woven thread would eliminate the concern for finding right hand twist thread. The .8mm thread arrived and I spooled some up and gave it a try. I bypassed the lube pot since the Tiger thread comes pre-waxed. It worked perfectly on the first try. This little Junker & Ruh SD28 machine is really cool. The stitching is virtually indistinguishable from the way I hand stitched before. In less time than it used to take me to mark the upper to midsole with an overstitch wheel and punch the holes with an awl, I was done stitching with the SD28. I would have spent another 30-45 minutes hand-stitching the seam. I imagine there are other alternatives to the Tiger thread that would work (certainly linen but it's hard to find in various colors) but I'm thoroughly satisfied with the Tiger thread. This is the first time I've tried it and I'm really sold on it.
  15. I actually have the Campbell-Randall website bookmarked as they are a great source for linen thread as you mentioned. Frankford Leather also stocks it. However, as I mentioned above, you can only get the linen thread in white or black. I use far more dark brown than any other color. I am curious to know your experience with the Lax Wax. I've been hoping to avoid having to use any lubricant, as I mentioned, just because it seems like it would be more messy and an additional hassle compared to just using modern pre-lubricated (waxed) thread. There is also still the issue of needing to run waxed thread in the bobbin as that is a stated requirement in the manual. I wonder where the other users of Junker & Ruh machines are? I know I've seen the machines discussed on the forum before. I'm surprised no one has chimed in about experiences trying to use modern threads. They really are cool old machines.