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About Boriqua

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  • Birthday 07/03/1963

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    Mesa, Arizona

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  1. I think it looks great! I am a great believer in allowing for happy accidents But ... since you asked I will try and offer some semi useful input. First off .... I am a motorcycle guy from way back and have tried a ton of products over the years to completely water proof and I get really good water resistance but have never actually gotten to water proof. If you can except that life is grand... now what we dont want is for the water to mess up our stuff and make a permanent hideous mark.. that I can help with. Almost all products will mess with your color some. The only one I have ever used that doesn't seem to lighten or darken the color is resolene. It offers a good deal of water resistance, doesnt stink and in my experience if the item does get wet the stain doesn't stay and once dry appears ok. I would be afraid of supersheen on a light leather I know will bend alot like your bag. Having said that ... if you had come to me for an item and told me the circumstances of where you live I might suggest the ol Bee's wax and pure neatsfoot oil blend.You will find a few different concoctions with a search of the forum but I just did a 50/50 by weight split in a simple double boiler setup. When cool it forms a paste about the same as tin shoe polish. I heated my leather slightly with a hair dryer and rubbed it into the leather. I then slightly heated the paste and watched it soak in. When dry I buff. Sometimes I apply again. The up side .. I have never tried anything that offers as good a water resistance. I tested a whole host of different products when designing some leather jewelry pieces and ran bits of dyed leather under water soaked them in cops and what have you. Water runs off of leather treated with the beeswax and neatsfoot oil and any partial staining is gone when it drys. Down side possibly is it will darken your color some. I think it looks attractive as hell but YMMV. You may want to use less dye to account for the darkening. I think its a gorgeous finish, is highly water repellent, easy and inexpensive to produce, doesnt have a foul odor and is easy to touch up. It is a wax though so the possibility exists like with any waxed or oiled garment, like a Barbour jacket, to rub some. I have used this finish for gear I knew would be used heavily outdoors by hunter guys and they love it. Alex
  2. Maybe I wont do it for this project but I am going to do some experimenting. No they are different. Its covered I think in a blurb in "coloring leather" as well. If I want white to stay white when I do an antique I cover it in Supersheen. Its not perfect but it is FAR more white than when I use resolene. Try it .. it can open up some creative ideas. Usually I preplan how much I want the base color affected by overlay colors or antiques and want some impact from the subsequant applications so the resolene works great. It allows just enough mucking up to blend nicely but still resist. Here are some pix of a not great holster but .. the design area is black, cordovan, Mahogany, and oxblood dye then sealed with just enough resolene and overlayed with antique. If I used supersheen you would see the transitions more but with just the right amount of resolene I keep most of my color and blend edges.If I wanted and planned for harder edges then supersheen. I'm babbling again!! Compact/ I will report back with pix after I experiment. Alex
  3. LOL !! yea what the hell .. the older I get and the more time I spend alone the more I tend to babble! Simplified version ... will resolene stick to supersheen and not do freaky stuff??
  4. I have some stuff out there for a few years that still looks great. I have used acrylics on guitar straps and it seems to hold up fine. I use a variety of types and brands but one thing that is constant is I water my acrylics down fairly substantially and build up the color. The first couple of passes is so watered it acts like watercolor and just tints the leather. The hobby lobby acrylics are tough stuff and my wife uses it on outdoor flower posts and rocks and it stays out in the AZ sun but I would be worried about adhesion glopping it on a piece of leather straight from the bottle.
  5. ugh even thinking about moving is painful. Then there is the year with stuff still some where in a box. I hope I will pass quietly into the night right where i am because I have moved a bunch and it gets harder every time. Doesnt MN get to like 30 below !?!?!? Gets to 50 above around here and I start to whine.
  6. Has anyone ever tried applying resolene on top of supersheen? Is it destined to crack? I am working on a holster and it is a fade from dark blue through purple and to oxblood. With most of these types of things I give a good spray of resolene, wait a day and apply stain if the design calls for stain. As most of you know supersheen resists stain and keeps the original cover better than does resolene. You can then use that knowledge for effect but .... Since this is a fade I was thinking of painitng out some of the blue with supersheen with a small paint brush and allowing it to dry. Then spraying the whole design area with resolene and allowing that to dry and then applying my acrylic stain. This should keep some of the blue area very blue and allow the rest to fade and be affected by the overlay colors. But .... I have already spent a fair amount of time on the piece and am afraid that I may not get good adhesion between the supersheen and the resolene on top of it. Any thoughts or experiences most welcome. Alex
  7. With solvent based be sure to buff well before you go to seal. Your rag should come up clean before you add sealer. I air brush my resolene but I to start with about a 50/50 or 60 water to 40 resolene on my first pass. You can watch it absorb into the leather at this concentration. Your first pass will look almost as if you hadnt applied anything. Then depending on the project I will just keep applying until it is built up to my liking or make a small batch of a higher concentration to apply over my initial watered down application. I no longer have issues with transfer and I have used this method on IWB holsters in Arizona.. You are right about the waterstain .. In places I dont want a big build up of resolene I sometimes use the black or brown Tandy pro waterstain and it is damn near transfer proof. Its a little steep in price but I like the stuff.
  8. I havent used the acrylics but have several colors in their solvent dyes. The colors are JUICY. I have been moving away from fiebings in my recent orders and have used fiebings for a couple of decades. Only caveat I can add with my experience is that the Jet Black from Angelus while indeed the blackest black I have ever used requires a fair bit of buffing after drying. Cut it in half to use it and it is still BLACK BLACK but you will be buffing heavy before sealer. I don't have that issue with any of the other 5 colors I have and continue to use.
  9. Actually ... thanks alot fellas .. you helped to reinforce where I was in my thinking. Not knowing everything leather I thought I should ask before saying no but my gut said it was a money/time eating disaster waiting to happen. Love this place!
  10. I am doing some work for a LEO and one of the things he asked me to do is cover his safariland holster with basket weaved leather. I saw pix of it before he sent it but didnt realize how very many contours there are in this particular holster. I have covered kydex holsters before but never anything with quite so many divots and contours. So I cant use 4/5 oz which was my original intention because of all the bends. I have some 2/3 oz which is mostly 3 oz but its goat and has a pretty heavy texture and doesnt take a very deep stamp since its so thin. I would really like to help him out since he seems so excited about it but I am about 2 seconds from telling him I have to pass. I am worried if I ruin it I have to pay for a new one! So ... I am here to see if anyone has any advice for making this happen. I tried small piece of leather glued to the fabric wrap and it glues up firm so I don't have to remove the wrap. When I pulled it off it actually separated the fibers and didn't come undone. I don't think I can use a camouflage tool so I was just going to stamp an oversized piece with basketweave and trim to size. I posted a few pix at the link and one with red dots shows all the contours on just the one side. Any suggestions or advice or admonishments and warnings would be appreciated. He just wants this holster covered in black basketweave.
  11. Shweet!
  12. I got something like this on ebay .. I admittedly went cheap and had to clean up the set some but they really upped my game and made all my corners inside and out look great since getting them and have saved a ton of time. I will never go back to cutting them out with a razor or knife. I have now been using the set for about 2 years and am very satisfied. I think I paid about 10 bucks for mine and am not sure you get a better polish on ones costing more. If you get them I would assume you will have to spend some time polishing. they are not pretty but mine work great and I use them several times a week.
  13. If you choose to use the scratch awl ... which I dont recommend if you already have a diamond awl then you should still make sure that on every stitch if you put the needle in from the back/ front first then do it the same every stitch and to make sure if you place the first thread in the lower part of the hole then be sure to always place the second thread on the top. Consistency is the absolute key to a good look stitch. So long as you do every stitch the same you will be ahead. .. but if you already have the osborne ... that is the way to go. Tandy has a contact cement that is supposed to me non stinky but weldwood works great and is available almost everywhere locally for a good price. It is available in wee little bottles at hobby stores if you dont want to buy a quart. I only use the scratch awl "round hole" on hard right turns otherwise its the diamond awl.
  14. Wow! That came out great. That is probably the best piece I have seen you post up here. Not saying the others weren't nice but this is another step in my opinion. Very nice! Alex
  15. I back stitch and then cut my thread ends about 1/6 in from the work. I then take a lighter and heat up the ends until they start to melt then squash them with my thumb so they form a little mushroom cap. If the stitch is on an inside I will never be able to get to again should anything happen I do all the above and then put a drop of crazy glue.