Boriqua

Contributing Member
  • Content count

    875
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Boriqua

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday 07/03/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mesa, Arizona

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Everything

Recent Profile Visitors

5,141 profile views
  1. Maul Vs Mallet My Experience

    Funny you should ask .. I was going to go over my old threads and let anyone that was interested know what I thought of some of the tools I had now been using a while. As far as the maul .. yup .. I still love it. I had to add a leather spacer after about 4 months but its dry as hell in AZ. Other than that it has performed wonderfully and has held up well. I use it probably 4 days a week for stamping and some setting. Here is where i got mine http://www.wrising.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=f330ad7fe550f9131980e586d6d6acc1
  2. Oil or not?

    I have a question about oil and gun finish. Seems silly but I will ask anyway. I am doing a holster with a lined interior. Basically its just two layers of 4/5 oz sewn back to back. I left the interior without dye but it looks a little stark. I was thinking of applying a very small amount of neatsfoot on the interior but .. of all the holsters I have made I never put oil on the inside and am wondering if it can hurt the guns finish. I know guns are usually full of gun oil anyway but I dont know if there is some property of neatsfoot that is different. I have 100% neatsfoot oil not the blend. To the OP .. I have put a very small amount of neatsfoot on projects. I usually use a rag made from a peice of tee shirt rather than say a towel because it holds less oil. I rub it in well but .. unlike lobo I put it on before I dye. I then let it sit for no less than 24 hours before dying. I have had some colors give me fits with rubbing when I applied after oil after dye and I like my buffing rag to come clean before I apply final sealer/finish. Having said that I pick my spots with using oil and dont use it on all gear. I have guys with my holsters for 10 yrs + that were never oiled. If I know its for a field gun I will oil it. For a daily carry CCW holster or general around town .. I dont.
  3. Panama straw

    Thank you for your kind works everyone! Yup that is hand stitched ... Not my best though and I just kind of shy my eyes away a little when I look at the pic
  4. Tooled, dyed/paint, cut resolene, dry, super sheen, dry x2, antique, clean, dry, light resolene final
  5. New to leatherworking

    To add to what kiwican said .. there is also a beveler that is pretty narrow that I have used with really tiny spaces. Tandy B935
  6. Panama straw

    I have 4 others and I just bought a REALLY Really nice straw hat so I didnt mind sacrificing one that I had enjoyed and was ready for retirement. I have enough material left to do about 3 more holster or ??? So more experimenting to come and maybe next time I wont hate the stitching.
  7. On that piece I used a medium brown Antique. The resolene I use is always cut with water so it is a fair resist but not great. I put it first because, although I dyed the background brown, I wanted to pick up the grain and well .... make that part look more antique. I dont know .. I just didnt want it all to look flat and wanted to pick up the leatheriness of the leather. I thought it would also help to make a texture contrast between all the flat brown background and the smooth painted parts and make the painted parts pop a little more. I allowed the resolene to dry and then with a small paint brush covered all the parts I wanted to stay clean with a couple of coats of supersheen. No I did not paint on top of the supersheen. I was just sure to clean off the painted areas well with the sponges and rags but the supersheen was a really good resist and made it easier. You can see in the attached pic how the flat brown that was treated with the resolene picked up the antique but the colored parts are pretty clean
  8. Panama straw

    Perhaps I misunderstood but I didnt weave the straw. I just cut a section out of a hat I had. I post things hoping to spark someones imagination. My very small contribution to the site. When you are out and about look for interesting textures. I made this about 25 years ago so its certainly not my best work but the inlay was some coconut hair I found under a palm tree in Puerto Rico. I just thought it was cool looking. I have seen shark and ostrich and elephant to death. Its beautiful and if the maker is good makes a tremendous final product but how boring it would be if we all did the same stuff. I am pretty cheap on pricing and that holster sold for $85 plus shipping because I was so disappointed with my stitching choice. Had I loved the piece I would have sold it for $125.00 and I am fortunate to sell just about everything I make.
  9. The Safety's Off

    I think its very nice. The stamping could be a bit more defined for me but its your vision so as long as its something you know about and have control over and choose to do then awesome. If I had one critique it would be the stitching. Its straight and looks great but if you are going to use contrasting stitching lets see it! I would have gone with a heavier thread. Doesnt have to be gargantuan but I think you may have missed a good opportunity by not going a little heavier.
  10. Even in the pic you posted the white is slightly affected. The leather has grain and is going to pick up "some" antique but I have had good-great results using supersheen as my resist. I have tried all sorts of methods and concoctions but what you need to do is kind of slick up the grain. So multiple lighter coats building up the white then I may spray my entire project with resolene and then go into the lighter colors I dont want brutalized and hand paint on a coat or two of supersheen. Be sure to let it DRY DRY. I leave my project alone a day or two so the acrylic fully cures hard. When you remove the antique, I use the fiebings acrylic stuff, be sure to have a few sponges and rags. You can use the corners of the very lightly damp sponges to keep removing carefully from the places you want white. I even have some Q tips and a small bowl of water to help with removing antique from the surface. I dont use supersheen as a final sealer but it does work great at preserving lighter colors.
  11. I havent posted anything in a while and sold this one off just a bit ago and figured that again it might jostle someones imagination on what can be inlay. So I do a basketweave where I alternatly hand paint some of the weave so it looks kinda like woven straw(ish) Its fun and people really seem to like it but I thought well why not do it in straw and had a genuine Panama straw hat I didnt use much anymore and it was sacrificed to the experiment. I did 6 spi and in hind sight I think I would have liked 5 but .. maybe the next one. Black body with Toquilla straw inlay and cigar colored stitching. Add 1911and you are good Couple of other pix here if anyone is interested http://www.boriqualeather.com/Gallery/index.php/Leather-Holsters/Panama-Straw
  12. Damn Brother .. Did you have to set the bar so freagin HIGH! That there is some beautiful work. I can only hope to do something maybe half that cool!!
  13. Here is how I handle my resolene. I mix resolene with 50-60% water and put it in a condiment bottle I get at the dollar store. While you are in there by the biggest pantyhose you can find. I usually only mix up about 1/2 -2/3 bottle at a time and each time I make a new batch I cut a new piece of pantyhose and hold it tight over the mouth as I screw down the top. I use primarily a gravity feed brush so I just undue the nipple and pour a little in the bowl. Has worked for me for a couple of years now. Still working on the original pantyhose.
  14. I am in a little shock at the moment .... Jeff .. A video!! WTH .. everything about life is now in question. Anyway .. Jeff does his fade after wet mold so the colors are staying fresher. I usually do the fade before wetmold so go with a little extra dye. I just like doing as much dying as I can with a flat piece.