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About Boriqua

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  • Birthday 07/03/1963

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    Mesa, Arizona

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  1. Show me your wallet

    There is a pin that runs up and down on the badge. I designed the bezel so that there is a piece of leather that the pin goes through but there is a thin frame piece beneath it. So it takes a little work but you can slip the pin down in the cavity. The pin attachment is separate from the paper money interior. You dont see it from inside. So think of a stack from top to bottom.. Thick Bezel frame Full thin piece with holes for pin top and bottom Thin bezel frame Wallet interior piece.
  2. Using a Stitching Pony/Horse

    I didnt have spare lumber but the 1x4 was under $10. I think the hinge was $3. I had the bolt and the spring was from an old 1911. I had a large knob but went to the cam and love it. I think the cam was $5. So about $20 total and its the perfect hieght for me when sitting in a chair. I put the bolt kind of low to accommodate larger items but tugadude's clamp idea would mean you could move it wherever you want.
  3. Using a Stitching Pony/Horse

    I am not sure you have thought it completely through. The stitching pony for me is just an extra set of hands. If you are making your stitching pony as I did you can think through your needs and build accordingly. Mine has a bout a 3.5 inch gap so that I can sew things that have some girth or that need to bend. Even if I am sewing a wallet there is a sharp bend if you accommodated for the extra material for the top so the bent part goes in the gap and the part I am sewing goes in the clamp. The European style clams have a big belly that seems very useful though I have never gotten to try one and you might want to consider them. Before I die I will get hold of one to try. Here is a thread on those. With the narrow clamp area and large belly they seem ideal. but your question was about molded objects. You didn't specify what they might be but below I post a pic of a simple molded bag I made. After I glued my molded piece to my flat piece I was able to set up my pony so that one leg was inside the bag and one outside and still keep the clamp up very close to the stitching area for support as I used my awl. I have posted pix of my pony many times before but here it is again. I use it for virtually everything and I make a wide variety of leather goods. This has been in use at least 4 days a week for a couple fo years now
  4. Angelus Dye's ?

    I really like the vibrancy of the colors in the Angelus. I very much prefer their cordovan and mahogany to Fiebings which I used exclusively for years. The jet black took some getting used to. It is BLACK. Cool as hell especially on Leo gear but I find if I dont cut it at least in half I have to buff the bejez out of it before sealing. It is loaded with pigment. not a bad thing but if you are used to using the fiebings pro black the angelus jet black has a bit of a learning curve. Having said that I will reiterate..... it makes leather black black like you used to see on leather gear cops had back in the 70's. I can apply multiple passes of fiebings pro black and never achieve the black I get from the angelus jet black but whew .. the buff'in! I am going to try the special on my next order.
  5. I would end the stitch at the screw say 1/8" from it. Put a drop of locktite or nail polish on the screw and you wont have to worry about it again. I put blue loctite on everything. While the nail polish works fine it is damn near impossible to move again. Sometimes with age the leather shrinks a little and you may want to give the chicago screws an extra 1/4 turn. You can with the blue locktite but I have had no success when I use nail polish.
  6. Cowboy boots make GREAT holsters!

    Stunning work and a wonderful wonderful idea!!
  7. Show me your wallet

    OH and just a few simple 4 pocket wallets. I have a couple of new designs I want to try but have been nose to my stitching pony making holsters for months
  8. Show me your wallet

    Pretty simple affair but since you asked! Not made for me just by me. I never have nice things! Recessed badge wallet which was part of a set. Need to look smart when gettin those bad guys.
  9. Maul Vs Mallet My Experience

    Funny you should ask .. I was going to go over my old threads and let anyone that was interested know what I thought of some of the tools I had now been using a while. As far as the maul .. yup .. I still love it. I had to add a leather spacer after about 4 months but its dry as hell in AZ. Other than that it has performed wonderfully and has held up well. I use it probably 4 days a week for stamping and some setting. Here is where i got mine
  10. Oil or not?

    I have a question about oil and gun finish. Seems silly but I will ask anyway. I am doing a holster with a lined interior. Basically its just two layers of 4/5 oz sewn back to back. I left the interior without dye but it looks a little stark. I was thinking of applying a very small amount of neatsfoot on the interior but .. of all the holsters I have made I never put oil on the inside and am wondering if it can hurt the guns finish. I know guns are usually full of gun oil anyway but I dont know if there is some property of neatsfoot that is different. I have 100% neatsfoot oil not the blend. To the OP .. I have put a very small amount of neatsfoot on projects. I usually use a rag made from a peice of tee shirt rather than say a towel because it holds less oil. I rub it in well but .. unlike lobo I put it on before I dye. I then let it sit for no less than 24 hours before dying. I have had some colors give me fits with rubbing when I applied after oil after dye and I like my buffing rag to come clean before I apply final sealer/finish. Having said that I pick my spots with using oil and dont use it on all gear. I have guys with my holsters for 10 yrs + that were never oiled. If I know its for a field gun I will oil it. For a daily carry CCW holster or general around town .. I dont.
  11. Panama straw

    Thank you for your kind works everyone! Yup that is hand stitched ... Not my best though and I just kind of shy my eyes away a little when I look at the pic
  12. Tooled, dyed/paint, cut resolene, dry, super sheen, dry x2, antique, clean, dry, light resolene final
  13. New to leatherworking

    To add to what kiwican said .. there is also a beveler that is pretty narrow that I have used with really tiny spaces. Tandy B935
  14. Panama straw

    I have 4 others and I just bought a REALLY Really nice straw hat so I didnt mind sacrificing one that I had enjoyed and was ready for retirement. I have enough material left to do about 3 more holster or ??? So more experimenting to come and maybe next time I wont hate the stitching.
  15. On that piece I used a medium brown Antique. The resolene I use is always cut with water so it is a fair resist but not great. I put it first because, although I dyed the background brown, I wanted to pick up the grain and well .... make that part look more antique. I dont know .. I just didnt want it all to look flat and wanted to pick up the leatheriness of the leather. I thought it would also help to make a texture contrast between all the flat brown background and the smooth painted parts and make the painted parts pop a little more. I allowed the resolene to dry and then with a small paint brush covered all the parts I wanted to stay clean with a couple of coats of supersheen. No I did not paint on top of the supersheen. I was just sure to clean off the painted areas well with the sponges and rags but the supersheen was a really good resist and made it easier. You can see in the attached pic how the flat brown that was treated with the resolene picked up the antique but the colored parts are pretty clean