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About WolfteverGunleather

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  • Location
    Ooltewah, TN, USA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters, Belts

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  1. Cobra Class 14 Splitter tips??

    Just purchased a Cobra Class 14 splitter, and received it last Friday. It was easy to assemble and start operating. So far I've split 8/9 and 6/7 W & C skirting down as thin as 2/3; HO heavy skirting down to 3/4, Calf skin 3/4 down to 2/3, chrome/veg bison down to 3/4. When splitting the heavy stuff super thin, you need to do it in multiple passes rather than try to go all the way in one split. I've also leveled 8/10 down to 8/9 where I was only shaving a thin layer in some spots. All scenarios have produced excellent results: clean split level across from edge to edge. If you try to go super thin (1/2 oz), the grooved feed roller prints from the flesh side through to the grain side so I would not recommend it, but the machine actually split firm leather that thin. The thickness gauge on the front of the machine shows thickness in irons instead of oz, so you have to convert and/or run a test piece to measure and then readjust, but that's a minor thing. Don't have enough experience with it yet to know how long the blade will hold its edge. or how difficult it will be to get set back up when reinstalling a sharpened blade, so I can't advise on either of those questions. Machine was packaged well, and had been setup and tested by Steve and crew before shipment. I'm very pleased so far. Phil
  2. Recent Builds

    Beautiful workmanship, as usual.
  3. Wet form crocodile/alligator hide

    You'll need to cement and/or stitch the alligator to some veg tan in order to properly wet form it. If I'm making a holster with alligator on the outside, I use contact cement and stitching to attach the alligator and 6/7 oz or 8/9 oz veg tan (depending on the holster size and design) flesh to flesh, then wet form it as I normally would.
  4. Nyah nyah nyah NYAH NYAH!

    Earned and not given.....I love it. Enjoy!
  5. A couple of Bible Covers off the bench recently

    Beautiful work! Very well done!
  6. Since I joined Leatherworker, I've started a leather business. I'm on Instagram under my business name, and would like to change my user name on Leatherworker to my business name also for consistency. Can I do that? And if I can, how do I do it?

  7. Horsehide vs cowhide for holsters

    I've made holsters exclusively out of cowhide for years, but I'm wanting to try some horsehide. I understand some of the differences in horsehide being denser, more resistant to moisture, and not dyeing as evenly as cowhide. My question is whether I should expect an equivalent thickness in horsehide to have similar working characteristics as the same thickness in cowhide. I've gotten pricing and ordering information from The Tannery Row, and they offer the russet horsehide strips in 5/7 oz or 7/9 oz. Should I expect the 7/9 oz horsehide to mold, bone, and hold it's shape pretty much the same as 7/9 oz Hermann Oak or Wickett and Craig, or is there a noticeable difference in temper, stiffness, or moldability oz for oz?
  8. Very attractive design and top notch workmanship.
  9. Ruger Vaquero

    Thanks, Sofaspud.
  10. Ruger Vaquero

    Thank you George.
  11. Ruger Vaquero

    A little creative design for a Ruger Bisley Vaquero.
  12. First Wickett and Craig holster

    Thank you Sceaden!
  13. Tooled .45 LC Rig

    Beautiful rig!
  14. First Wickett and Craig holster

    Red bear and car guy, thanks for the positive feedback. My edge finishing largely follows the Bob Parks (hide pounder) method. Even the edges with a Dremel tool (220 grit) Bevel the edges Hand sand with 400 grit Hand sand with 600 grit Stitch Wet mold While still wet from molding, burnish with glycerin saddle soap and denim When almost dry, burnish with more saddle soap and wooden slicker When dry, dye edges Touch up spots with 600 and 800 grit Touch up dye Reburnish touched up spots Wax with parrafin and wooden slicker