thefanninator

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About thefanninator

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austin area, TX

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  • Interested in learning about
    Luxury goods, bags, briefcases, wallets, European leather & tanneries, exotics

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  1. Check out Instagram and you'lll find that the top Japanese leather craftsmen use the European style. Most of them are using Blanchard pricking irons. See go_leathers. He has a few tests of several other brands. https://www.instagram.com/go_leathers/ Amy Roke is another brand of pricking irons. They are pretty new but very high quality made in China. The stitching chisels you read/hear about are used mostly to punch all the way through the leather. With these I see a slightly thicker thread and lower stitch count per inch. As far as I know neither of these styles use a stitching groover like the saddlers and other leather crafters here in the USA.
  2. If you're gonna use suede you probably want to paint the edges. Here's a long wallet made entirely of suede. I think the edges were painted.
  3. Very cool. Thanks!
  4. I make my own. Sometimes based on someone's else's photos. I've bought a few from China and they always seem to be slightly too small. Credit cards pockets end up being too tight. I've also used some free ones that apparently were not tested so things didn't quite fit right. You have to make the pattern a few times and make changes that you only find out about when actually making the item.
  5. I don't think there is one book for everything leather. Too many styles and techniques. If you're looking for tooling books try Sheridan Style Carving by Bob Likewise (with Bill Gardner & Clinton Faye). The Leatherworking Handbook by Valerie Michael is a good one for learning hand stitching, construction techniques and has some practical projects in it.
  6. The heat helps the creasing tip glide across the leather add some more pressure for a deeper crease. The crease is mostly decorative but helps compress the fibers to create a stronger edge. Some wax and paint gives it a nice finish and seals everything up.
  7. Yeah, I have one. It's junk. Haha. I use the French one now.
  8. Yeah, I think ya'll are right. Top edges do look like they're rolled. Pockets are hard to tell but are definitely creased with a heated creaser.
  9. This is not a rolled edge. These edges are creased with a French tool called a Fileteuse Manuelle. It's being called an electric creaser here in the US. The edges are then painted and waxed. Where are you in Texas?
  10. Equus Leather in the UK uses those. I think he has them custom made. http://www.equusleather.co.uk/belts/equus-belt-kits.html
  11. There's a few more things I'd like to add. If you are going to burnish... follow Hidepounder's thread: I use Tandy's Edge paddle tool for edge paint application... you might find you like using an awl or scratch awl better. Edge paint will peel eventually especially on the bend of a wallet or something. It can be repaired. Just sand it off, clean it up and repaint.
  12. Edge paint. Skip the Fiebing's Edge Kote and use one of the professional edge paints. Fenice, Uniters, Giardini, Stahl or Vernis. No need to waste time or leather experimenting, or burnishing anything besides straight veg tanned. Here are some other options for finishing an edge: Turned or Folded edge. Bound edge. French bound edge. Turnover allowance. Here's an edge on a sheath I did. I used Fenice and did several coats and sanded up to 1500 grit then hit it with paraffin wax.
  13. Practice. You could do this by either hand or machine. Here's a pic of a card holder I stitched by hand to practice 12 spi.
  14. Is it a brand name, mass produced wallet? I'd bet if it isn't custom made it's machine stitched.
  15. Check with Campbell Randall - they might have an idea. They carry some brands from Italy. https://www.campbell-randall.com