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About brmax

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    These HD Sew Machines and working the leather tools
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  1. Beginner Saddle Leather Sewing Machine

    I think you would benefit quicker with investment returns with a 3200 cowboy machine. I also think this standard table setup can help in the overall size concept/ duties. I dont think its needed, but if some thicker than 5/8” materials for bridles etc. are wanted, the class 3 cobra can be next handy size for that work. In a bigger shop setting follow up with a longer cylinder arm heavy stitcher as the 4500 cowboy and the class 4 cobra. These and some others can be obtained as quality machines based from others. Both of these just mentioned are as the class 3 much thicker capacity, but have a much longer cylinder for clearance in your products. These last three have a 7/8” or possibly a hair thicker material capacity. Keeping an eye on the local used sales listings is always an excellent tip. This is critical in searching. Also with these choices mentioned from the machine section here, you can be assured a direct, qualified machine selection. With this, you then you can better gauge others you find. If you are as I sometimes am. At the go, go on get’r done point. Well give this place a holler. good day Floyd
  2. What model is this?

    Nice looking machine.
  3. Firefighter Sewing machine

    What kind of machine is this, or whats it designed for. Like google description.
  4. Many countries or we can just say places have general fees or taxes as a standard. I understand tarrifs are a form of these in some language. In a better description I think. Tarrifs are in one way or the other, a levy. In that being more specific to a purpose. There are many different aspects of its effect. Actually both sides is seen, in every home. In essence its seen to help their public in some economic strategy. As we know this thinking is and usualy best considered for their total, public citizens. Just my opinion, have a good day! Floyd
  5. Juki 1541S Inconsistent Tension

    The thread path is looking good from my point of view. Whats a priority for myself is keeping a consistant pattern of how I thread through all the guides and holes. Everyone can do it in any method by the book, but as everything having a known consistant pattern helps. Especially in any situation of multiples and or monitoring these for troubleshooting. Your onto the issue for sure, if its possible look or video the spools usage or thread coming off during this issue. When you notice an irregular stitch, you may count until the next. Maybe its a visible moment off the spool where you see something. Narrowing further I have made marks on the thread just off the spool to help in different situations. Its crazy how a lite! thread issue coming off the spool makes it a pain for a bit. Good work there Floyd
  6. Juki 1541S Inconsistent Tension

    Not that the textile weave wont close up! But the needle size is to big, in that the recommendation from mfg.’s is size 16-18 for tex 70, size #69 threads. Sometimes its easiest to back off bobbin case thread tension screw. Adjusting this where its very lite! tension. Then working with the top more easily. Your stitch can waver a bit I think first with the needles hole making ability. Then followup with tension checks. Carefully notice any case tension screw. In their ability to be consistant in applying or reducing. I've had one with threads very very screwy, from new. Uncommon i think. I do feel we all consider, or maybe i should just say me. I feel the big brands we know of do in fact have better consistancies in their products. This sometimes bothers me afterward, when i have these very same issues. But hey, I many times relearn Something I heard and started is keeping a few different bobbin cases extra. Also more importantly is keeping some separate if you can for different thread sizes. This I find criticaly handy in using threads of same size, but different types. In examples, high heat or solarfix marine. In closing I wouldnt do anything without changing the needle size first, to at least close as possible to 18. Good day Floyd
  7. With the photos, I can say it has exactly the same casting features of a 1341, that Im staring at. Looking at the first photo, a view at the back of the machine head. I recall seeing that mounting style of the knee / presser foot riser rod before. Seems different tables can possibly benefit with it I guess, and confident its a factory placement. Possibly the pedestal stands as the class 4, the 4500’s and 441 typically use. I had made a slotted hole directly under that machine connection. So to have the bumper rod traveling down and then toward the needle or cylinder end. Im using an existing corner of a bigger sew table. In all our setups, these parts can and should be to better our performance or comfort. With that, I still used the blue flame to get the particular bends in the steel rod just right. Good day Floyd
  8. Was this a new factory table attachment, its clear it has some really rough contour. As you mentioned, in other words, an after market quality attachment, by Uwe would be nice. Here though, there are few but still comparisons with Uwes table attacments and these other factory brands. I believe its they are for sew machines, thats about all. Good day Floyd ps: i also have a factory table attachment. It mounts fine and is totally useable. It came with a used machine purchase of mine. With these respectfully, I now understand the newer options available, they look Great!
  9. Cowboy 3200 wont run

    Can you remove the hook or shuttle assembly, to see if this helps. From the information, Im only considering a bind. But a bit more conversation could benefit troubleshooting. Good day Floyd
  10. CB 4500 Thread Tension

    Seems a few charts show a 25 as minimum needle choice. This may be general as some leather is hard as a rock. In my pack of; Organ 7x4NW, DYx3LL= 200/25. The needle could slide on the 277 thread extremely quick, if one is doing that typical needle thread sizing. So I would care to hear if others use a smaller needle with veg tan and 277thread, in ten ounce leather or there abouts. Good day Floyd
  11. 2&3 would have my interest. I believe a 5550 of sorts juki, and the singer 211 believe it is. Good day Floyd
  12. That is a great tip you mention Uwe. The orientation of the bracket, I hadn't noticed and with the photos, it helps. Good thing for all these pictures from everyone. After looking here earlier, I failed to copy and paste. Though did see on aliexpress a longer lever for this. Oddly this was in the same searching of the flip down part. The longer lever may well be made by the same company, that kwokhing has quite the part list. Where ever the lever was I passed on the save n paste because the 37.$ price. Anyway, thanks you all for the heads up on these installs, tricks n tips. Good day Floyd
  13. It looks like it could hit on both, hex bolt and the guide. Can you describe that? If the bolt is removed does it, the lever still contact the guide body. Floyd p.s. Someone may mfg a different lever.
  14. In the short time being interested in industrial sew machines. I honestly have only been around k stands. I think the L stand and H stands with their frame structures are a newer design. In my opinion they could be higher in price, although im sure with either there are both thick and thin box tubing and or dimensions used, just as the k stands. So what I have is the k stand, but what I like are both the L and H. Someone mentioned formica thickness, I agree, some thin stuff is used in these tops way to easily. Thumbs downs, with it. In some manufacturing I have seen hundreds uneven/ bumps on these tops. Its like they unprofessionally sprayed glu strings on, went to lunch came back to find they needed to spray more glue on. Then run it through their roller press Stands: most have the; lower foot support, running across. These tend to get both feet on them, or mine do. Especially if this area is raised from casters installed. This may be a support part, that one wants or needs lowered by some method. I mention this simply because I found couple of my k stands had this an inch or so higher, and in that not the same with any others Ive had. I have on all these supports installed a 12” plywood square left side of the go pedal, just a need for a bit more left shoe area. Closing rant: H stand, with nice white top and it requires a smooth top surface. Good day Floyd
  15. Im in total agreement on casters. I used the mig to weld them on mine, as they are k stands. As mentioned they are contanerous on the feet, for mounting anything except slab of plywood. I have seen countless casters mounted with this method first, then on stands. Keep an eye on all the stand types, its possible to locate something just right. If your familar with the router and its performance, this gets to be just another new task. Just be mindfull of the particular inside corner ledge cutting. Even take a look for stands on C list, ive seen them there before. With that, the real old k stands I do believe they had thicker steel, im positive of that. good day Floyd