brmax

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About brmax

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    Leatherworker

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    Male
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    Missouri

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    These HD Sew Machines and working the leather tools
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  1. Ok, keep us in the loop of your results. The bobbin cases are likely to have a bluish flat spring in it, as the anti spin part. Most do yet they can be purchased without. So this could be optional and of interest. Also some of these cases could be purchased extra as a real benefit later on, this you likely know. Good day Floyd
  2. It sure is tough one! I am trying to come up with how some extra thread can get out there, I mean with the case tension spring doing its job. Additionally only noticable after a corner, ya this ones a So if the last three stitchs are made in a slow process, Im wondering. Though I still have faith in that case tension springs only letting out whats regulated on the hooks pull. Good day Floyd
  3. No, not this part rather this lever (sometimes called opening lever) helps move the bobbin basket & case assembly slightly. In this its a repeated movement and the thread gains a clearance. This thread clearance is obtained directly 12:00 position of the lever you see or top of the hook area in the photo. We can notice the thread when assembled with machine tilted back (hand turning/power off) as sewing scrap. The hook makes its revolution and the thread moves around the finger/tab slot. This is a repeated movement and regulated by the bobbin case lever mentioned. In short the juki 1541s is this style requiring its own design hook and includes a safety clutch mechanisim on the shaft. The standard 1541 as mentioned and some like it, are designed with different hook design that requires no bobbin case opening lever. Also this standard Juki did not include the saftey clutch. Some of these others of late I understand do have the safety clutch mechanism on shaft. In some extra moments, these opening levers in operation can be easier seen on the “top” loading bobbin machines. While some videos are showing the opening of that area for thread clearance and adjustments. Theres also some good reads and important info on that tab or finger with these style machines. Hey its Friday! Have a good day Floyd
  4. Im going to have to ask is the machine the same as your work machine. Also is the tech the same company and or person as your work calls on. In any case I thought it strange most all issues were in corners of the same turn. So with some more or lots more questions, particulars can this same test be made with both directional turns. In this I would deffinetly bump up to a 19 to better assess possibilites. In that Im familar with solarfix and do use 18, but were not discussing needles primarily. We really could look at positions of the tension spring and take up lever when we know needle eyelet is still below the material but on its continued way up. Just doing a straight line stitch would be the choice. Its tough doing armchair diagnostics. So a big thanks for the pics but its gonna take much more and or a video. Remember these issues are exactly what this forum section is all about, you are at the right place! Good day Floyd
  5. As you know, If you consider the needle is best to still be in the material when you turn, is easier. So with that if we take a look, and it can be a practice thing with the knee bump/lift. I mean getting use to the feel for presser foot lifting a lot! yet keeping the eyelet below the material. Its going to be somewhat acquired and then additional acquirements in material type changes. Good day Floyd
  6. Consew 226 or consew 206rb?

    If you can ask them to oil them as you watch, this would be great. With that done, by having no thread in the needle or lever above it. You can lift the lever for the presser feet, or using the knee bumper. Doing this so the presser feet are raised and in a stay position. You can initially run the machines to hear most of their movements and gear train. This done also, just as you might wind some bobbins. I find it a lag time and chance to see, feel and hear particulars that are mentioned above from others. (great tips) These machines are both in the middle range or upholstery class machines. Which are great for your present task, but planing for much heavier leather stuff is not so much in your best interest. Imo To add something im sure you have seen in post so far are speed reduction types that are built or purchased. This part will be your new best and likely smartest investment part! have a good day Floyd
  7. What am I doing wrong?

    Yes, I agree also and you picked up a good tip in that. If your corners last stitch ends with the needle being down and after bottom center its going up. The amount can vary but try 1/4” or more to start. I feel the thread is then at a secure point to lift presser a bit to turn material. Is a smaller needle available or has this been considered. I understand each material has its go to size with threads. An 18&19 is my go to for 92 threads. Much of our time we will easily see a consistency when most of a products stitch line was sewn facing up. Its always a bit different looking when, we have to or just for convenience keep flipping over and stitching. Just something we try to pattern for even in our best stitch line. Good day to ya Floyd
  8. Yes, If you selected your leather choice thickness/weight carefully. Just as you and I would do in the upholstery size or class machines. Our need or want to fabricate super thin nylon materials one in a while, its always our tough denial decision. So finding a sweet spot leather thickness with thread you can center the knot of heavier thread. I have mentioned before using thread colors to contrast a product. This as well can be looked at for blending if one wants thread concealed. All that aside the feed mechanisim can be bigger on the large machines as are the gaps and or holes for big needle abilities. Have a good day Floyd
  9. Elize Industrial Sewing Machine

    The way the model number runs out, sure sounds like a Seiko. Its possible they have some involvement in my opinion also. Floyd
  10. Juki 1541 or Cowboy 3200

    What Don said on thread is a great/scratch that, I mean Excellent point in this conversation. In bolstering this thread point its a colorful item in the planing, that in time can get much higher (quick) in the budget accounting. I for one sure did not think beyond a few colors initially. In some items a few colors works perfect, and sometimes in the same there can be other conversations. In example the thread contrast or something a bit more blunt . In usage the 1lb spool is perfect budgeting, even as a mid level priority color ( everybody's is different ). Yet smaller spools are what I need to re spool a bit. This can be a pita so If available same brand etc etc. small spools can be a great addition. So beyond and compounding your cost is thread color. Again its a great point brought up, do consider it in your initial budget outline. Good day Floyd
  11. Sewing machine refinish

    The thing about the best stuff is pro products are in larger amounts. So if you can be aquainted with them, its the shortcut. Especially having them in their shop doing a small project within their other big projects. But anyway here is a great info link thats spot on. Good day Floyd
  12. Juki 1541 or Cowboy 3200

    Many times making stern choices in just a few projects is best for your machine decision. With that project choice, many here can say in short order if these are your best choice. I don't think either machine is going to be quick in tension adjustments for the thread extremes they may list. I like to agree thread size changes are time consuming. Therefore projects are efficient if thread size is consistent. Good day Floyd
  13. Looks like a great find! Congrats The stand is looking pretty heavy duty I agree. A keeper imo Good day Floyd
  14. Caster wheels for machines

    I will suggest the style rather than brands as they will be renamed likely anyway What I have used and mounted in different ways are the swivel type. In particular they have and need “ both” braking and swivel locking. The frame you have to attach to is a key point here, I think. Another thought is if the floor rolling surface is not hard surface. I personally think a wheel bigger than 2.5” is required, as residential carpet is thicker. I have installed, by welding many of these on my k stands. These stands can be a real pain for this in my opinion. On the other hand as a young grunt, ages ago in upholstery shop. Boards of 2x4” were comonly used on bottom of k-stand legs ( front to back ) and this provided a superb mount surface for casters, without welding. Over 40 years ago The e-place has what I found great prices with 5” casters in the past with features mentioned. I used this size on shop tables and smaller diameter, from local box stores on k stands for concrete floor surfaces. In any case bigger is much easier to “ start “ the roll. Finding ones with either steel or aluminum locking parts, especially the foot application part is more durable, btdt. Good day Floyd
  15. Modern high performance threads

    Im not aware of the strength ratings of kevlar or any other in that “ super thread “. I can say they have made most to the standard of others strength. This being regulated on standard size threads. Although though better durubility has came from advances in the industry. Especially towards heat and liquid environents. Its always good to hear what you find out, so appreciate hearing what is out there. It is important to hear these strengths based around other standards to start. Thanks Good day Floyd