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  1. Probably need some pics, if not using a link to your photo storage site like photo bucket or other kinds some use. Then ive heard resizing a close up picture to about 128kb size. This can be seen when your mouse is on the newly sized photo. Anyway if where the needle area is, and there is 3 seperate post coming down. your on a roll with a walking foot machine most likely. Something interesting is if its a flat bed style or if it has the cylinder arm style off the side and some have the post style sticking up. I seen in a search cylinder arm but without a bit more, my or others search or familar knowledge is up in the air. And we dont want to bother ya with a bunch of links. Glad to help! Fwiw sometimes here in the last 15 years many copies of other machines have been cast. Some have great new mods so it can be tough. As several tags can be installed, some brands with different attention paid to modifications be it dealer design or just dealer adjustments. Floyd
  2. I would consider a bit more towards the machine with a pulley wheel. Good luck Floyd
  3. Its so much easier re-looking up post on a pc versus a d phone. The scrolling for me first gets a rating, and well. Anyway probably best to ask how much or whats hook to needle clearence look like. But it is running about center on feed dog so kinda puts the cover at first ? My standard cover is not slotted at the screw hole on my Cobra. Although in looking at other photos some i seen some use this. So if there is room at edge of cover say next to the casting, slotted holes could be handy. Floyd
  4. The bonded would have a coating applied somehow. And as you mention your doing, running bonded topside. This is the design intention to better help in higher tension or stress areas and these type mechanical situations. I believe speed of stitching also plays a big roll here as this can develop heat. A supportive and may well be a sales point. Is some bonding specific applications this is to also add better results to usage of products. Good day Floyd
  5. Im not sure on which descript in a mobile table im only recalling the typical 4500 stands. On some other ones with top that has a center open design i can see them being easily mobile. Myself struggle with to many seats and heights so try to keep my ocd pattern the same with machine setup. Floyd
  6. I found 3 different factory installed parts. The one in the photo, one with slight drop in the eyelet hole about a 1/16" or better. Another without eyelet just a small tang wraped around so making it easier to insert thread behind it. None of these parts make much difference in this issue. About .015" at the top of the walk foot so .415" bottom side. So one can assume with perfect alignment the outer presser foot will be ok. Though in sewing super thick stuff the part with the drop down would get trashed by the walk foot first. Versus the others hitting the outer presser foot top as i see it. The best option i found for myself is to use the 190 system needles in these 15 series if your sewing over .400". The 190 sys will fit the same wheather a 1341, 1541,1541s,1508n, 1508nh and quite sure the other super pro 15 series. I found this problem in a (few) begining noise moments and said self this banging crap has got to go! So in digging around found the 190 sys will give ya like 3/16 of an inch more. Floyd To offer another great reference:
  7. I recall reading on the site here somwhere, the machine likes to have about an eighth of an inch more clearence than the material. This was a good tip i do believe. On a measurement here i get .400" with feed dog to bottom of foot clearence. With one cup of coffee this morning! It could get more scientific later if needed. The part mentioned in post is touching the top of a factory walk foot in my measurement. This part surely can be had cheaper and in an Original part, totally agree. This measurement i mentioned is with 135X17 needle sys setup. This setup i havent made time to change anything. I think there are options available though, needle bending has been a concern spoken about. Honestly with this thickness of material it may be time to consider other machines. Soft rope cording or the likes i wouldnt have an issue considering options. But with that .400" in a solid well? So if on the lighter choice i can offer a bit more, as others. good day Floyd
  8. The motor looks in good condition from the photo. I agree the wiring can age out and i my opinion think much of this is just the makeup of the wire coating not so much heat cycles though a concern on all circuts. So i would seriously consider what type wires are in the flexible metal conduit. If its can help maybe. I use a hot knife many times at machines. With that and a concrete floor i have installed one of the metal "handy" electrical box on my machine k stands securely. The idea is to benefit using a gfci recepticle and i use the deep double size box as the main input junction. I only mention this as the system there in the photo should have a seperate ground wire added just because that was the next newest update in them days. Im just getting to old for the jolt these day i only want that from the coffee. Good day there Floyd
  9. Welcome to the machine area Yes on two machines, your holster you mentioned needs big thread so a Juki 441 or the famous clones made from that. Seems everybody needs the mid size machine to work a majority of the other load also. You can find excellent new hardly used machines, if i can so can you. The key is patience so in the mean time look for the singer clones, but classed/ called compound walking foot style. This is just the ticket ya need. Listen up to these others on here i have learned a great deal from this place myself. The secret with all purchases cash in hand and willing to travel. Floyd
  10. There maybe somewhere an illustration on the adjustment here but its not in the Juki engineers manual where i have noticed. So any of you are more than welcome to share the typical adjustment and or measurements. I certainly would appreciate the information. Thanks Floyd
  11. Thats what gets my goat, i got all worked up on mine and so got ready. Did work outs! Push ups everything. Even brang all the tools in, a new pot of coffee. I made the call and like : do this, i did and it was fixed and done. Dam coffee in my cup was still steaming. Floyd
  12. Its dry. It may be possible to remove the top presser spring retainer nut totally. In doing this a better oiling of these parts surely could be tried. This seems to be a new machine fit type issue though a pain i think a bit of time and youll be off n stitching. I had earlier tried myself manually lifting the presser foot on mine at its mount point and this is handy. Have a good weekend Floyd edit: oh the ole chatter roller ya!
  13. If when you sit next to it and manualy lift up on the foot at the mounting is there noticeable drag. You could remove the side for a better oil app possibly. I had a great talk with the tech at leather machine so do give them a shout back in the shop good day Floyd
  14. Interesting tip, thanks my cobra has a flat ledge at bottom sticking out maybe? an 1/8" with a small thread hole. Versus the ring band as your photo which looks to have plenty room. Looks like a great mod. Good day Floyd
  15. Hey Zach i found the top of the belt rides on the pulley outside, so easy method is wrap some painters tape around pulleys tape together, mark and then cut. Measureing this is i think spot on, in your hardware stores the appliance v-belts are typically a "B" series and what you need they come in 1 inch measurements. That treadle is a nice one with good end bearing mounts! Any way it looks to be missing a small bracket mounted accross the toe side, left to right. You may need to find or make a 12"flat steel piece replacement with the end having a say a one or two inch long 90 degree turn with a hole drilled to accomadate your purchased linkage. These many times are adjustable on them screws as different motors and the likes. Good day Floyd