VanRhodes

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About VanRhodes

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Product development, skydiving. Aspiring parachute rigger.

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  1. 5 or 6-cord, nylon thread, equal to or greather than A-A-59826 Type 2 Class B. A-A-59826 supersede the older VT-295E spec. Pay close attention to the way your sling will be loaded with regard to the splits or joints for the eye's. Please have a look at the linked PDF for some interesting technical reading. http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/110406.pdf
  2. By accident I found a couple of pictures of the Singer 7 class with an adler-looking head and spring.
  3. Also, the Adler 20 class is longer than the Singer 7 class. The base differs an inch or two in lenght if im not mistaken. Regarding the square faceplate of the Adler 20 I have actually seen a Singer 7 with a similar look for sale here in sweden, unfortunantly I did not save the pictures the seller sent me.
  4. That looks like an Adler 20-20 with a standard lift. High lift machines has an extra spacer in between where the head is mounted to the base of the machine. I don't know if you disassembled it or if you're just missing a few parts for your thread tension mechanism.
  5. I would love to see one in gray hammer paint with black details. <3 Make sure you post PLENTY of pictures during the process
  6. That might be the case for my machine since its using SIMANCO parts for the shuttle, hook and driver. This would explain why it might be a little bit off in timing. None the less, shortening and reshaping the hook worked like a charm so give it a shot.
  7. To be honest with you Sandyt, I solved it by reshaping the hook. I shortened it a couple of millimeters with a dremel and it's now working perfectly. I figured I could give it a shot since I got an extra hook with the machine.
  8. On my Adler 20 I can move it buy gently tapping it with a mallet, on the 7-33 however, it's a completely different story. I did try tapping it with a mallet but perhaps I wasnt using enough force.
  9. CowboyBob: I did loosen the screw in an attempt to slide the shuttle race closer to the needle (just like I did on my adler 20), but this one is properly stuck for some reason. Its not even budging.
  10. Yeah. Cant thank you enough for all your help Gregg! Now I just gotta figure out how to get the shuttle race moving to adjust the needle to shuttle relation. For some reason I cant get it moving closer to the needle. Also somewhat worrried about the amount of sideways play in the shuttle hook. I can push it closer to the needle and make it shift a few millimeters but I'm not sure if this will actually be an issue while sewing. I dont have any play even close to this in my Adler 20.
  11. If all else fails you can always buy the new style rock shaft from Keystone sewing. That is said to mitigate the broken-pin-syndrome and I gotta say the NSRS is looking pretty darn sweet.
  12. I got the parts from Gregg @keystonesewing today and I wasnt really expecting the tapered pins to be this big and for a moment I thought he had sent me the wrong pins. However, I guess youre supposed to drive them in and then just cut to size wich is kinda neat Thank you for the super speedy shipping! Yetibelle: I also included a picture the shows the approximate angle between the two sides of the rocking shaft.
  13. I love how much time you are putting in to restoring that old beast. I'll see if I can get you of the rocking shaft tomorrow when I'm at the shop again.
  14. Yetibelle: What subclass is that Adler? I have the Adler 20-7 as well and it's massive, quite a lot bigger compared to the 7-33. My 20-7 has a SIMANCO shuttle race amongst other parts so I guess they're fairly similar in some aspects and I've also seen pictures of a Singer 7-class that is fairly similar in appearance to the 20-7. For my 7-33, they're more or less in line. Gregg linked me this as an alternative solution in case the rocking shaft I had wasnt repairable. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/95106499cbd74198a77839493fb3924e Not sure if it will fit yours, but it might be indicative of the angle between the two arms.
  15. Thrash threasure: Please post som pictures of the Adler 20 you are restoring! Id love to see what you've got going on. On a side note, the hole in the shaft is very clean and not worn at all on mine. It was just a broken pin and the break was so clean I could barely make out the pin from the shaft when I took it apart. Yetibell, I have fixed it with a temporary pin for now and there is no play at all, what so ever in the linkage.