VanRhodes

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About VanRhodes

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Interests
    Product development, skydiving. Aspiring parachute rigger.
  1. On my Adler 20 I can move it buy gently tapping it with a mallet, on the 7-33 however, it's a completely different story. I did try tapping it with a mallet but perhaps I wasnt using enough force.
  2. CowboyBob: I did loosen the screw in an attempt to slide the shuttle race closer to the needle (just like I did on my adler 20), but this one is properly stuck for some reason. Its not even budging.
  3. Yeah. Cant thank you enough for all your help Gregg! Now I just gotta figure out how to get the shuttle race moving to adjust the needle to shuttle relation. For some reason I cant get it moving closer to the needle. Also somewhat worrried about the amount of sideways play in the shuttle hook. I can push it closer to the needle and make it shift a few millimeters but I'm not sure if this will actually be an issue while sewing. I dont have any play even close to this in my Adler 20.
  4. If all else fails you can always buy the new style rock shaft from Keystone sewing. That is said to mitigate the broken-pin-syndrome and I gotta say the NSRS is looking pretty darn sweet.
  5. I got the parts from Gregg @keystonesewing today and I wasnt really expecting the tapered pins to be this big and for a moment I thought he had sent me the wrong pins. However, I guess youre supposed to drive them in and then just cut to size wich is kinda neat Thank you for the super speedy shipping! Yetibelle: I also included a picture the shows the approximate angle between the two sides of the rocking shaft.
  6. I love how much time you are putting in to restoring that old beast. I'll see if I can get you of the rocking shaft tomorrow when I'm at the shop again.
  7. Yetibelle: What subclass is that Adler? I have the Adler 20-7 as well and it's massive, quite a lot bigger compared to the 7-33. My 20-7 has a SIMANCO shuttle race amongst other parts so I guess they're fairly similar in some aspects and I've also seen pictures of a Singer 7-class that is fairly similar in appearance to the 20-7. For my 7-33, they're more or less in line. Gregg linked me this as an alternative solution in case the rocking shaft I had wasnt repairable. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/95106499cbd74198a77839493fb3924e Not sure if it will fit yours, but it might be indicative of the angle between the two arms.
  8. Thrash threasure: Please post som pictures of the Adler 20 you are restoring! Id love to see what you've got going on. On a side note, the hole in the shaft is very clean and not worn at all on mine. It was just a broken pin and the break was so clean I could barely make out the pin from the shaft when I took it apart. Yetibell, I have fixed it with a temporary pin for now and there is no play at all, what so ever in the linkage.
  9. According to Gregg, those pins often break due to the pressure of the spring on top so go ahead and check yours. It should be clearly noticeable if something is broken.
  10. I havent received the pins yet(they're in the mail), but I included a picture clearly showing the broken pin, still attached to one part of the rocking shaft. These are the pins I ordered. The ones for the 7-33 are apparantly the same as those used for the Seiko SLH 2-B http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/906c427e93724c929ff31a838537115f
  11. I've got the NPS installed on one of my machines and it does work well. For the controlbox, there really arnt alot of options to chose from you so basicly click you way through the menu's and make your choice. unfortunantly I dont recall the exakt menu sequence, but some trial and error will solve that. Its actually fairly easy. As for setting up the NPS, you need to attach it to the shaft and set the two discs in the correct position. You've got a 50/50 chance of setting the discs up properly so just give it a try and reverse the order if your first chance didnt give you the correct output
  12. Gregg got back to me, saying it looked like a broken tapered pin in the rocking shaft and upon closer examination it turned out he was right. I broke out the dremel and some hardened steel bits and drilled the tapered pins to relieve them, and could then continue to hammer them out of the sockets. I temporarily affixed the rocking shaft by inserting temporary pin in to the socket to test the function and it appears to be working rather smoothly now. Next stop is the Keystone Sewing webshop to order some parts, might as well order a couple of tapered pins while I'm at it
  13. Weird. Try now, I changed them from private to unlisted. Dont know why they ended up as private though, must have been some preset that was saved from an earlier upload,.
  14. I picked up a singer 7-33 yesterday from a local guy here in Stockholm yesterday, honestly, I never thought I would have that much luck scoring a 7-33. As expected, its a bit of a fix-er-up. I'll need to clean her up good and buy a new thread take up spring and a new thread guide for the thread tensioner and I plan to get those through Gregg. But upon further inspection I noticed something weird and I wanted to check with any of you guys that has experience from the 7-33 if this is the way it should be. Please see linked video. (Sorry about the standing video format) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb2zECk0ESg It would seem to me, that the connecting shaft between the end that goes to the eccentric feed and the lifter for the inner foot should be a one piece shaft. e.g if it moves on one end, the other should move as well. But this is clearly not the case at the moment. Is this the way it should be? The second issue I'm having is that the outer foot, or the vibrating/walking foot, is dragging behind and really isn't moving as its supposed to do as is evident in the following video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBDwkJBpYAs Being very new to the machine I'm not quite used to the mechanic's involved and I have this far failed to find much in the way of useful information regarding these issues so any help from you guys would be greatly apprechiated. Thanks in advance.
  15. Do you have a close up picture of the feed dogs? I scored a rather nice Adler 20-7 a couple of years back(wich also has a SIMANCO shuttle race btw) and it appears you do not have the original feed dog. The Adler 20 is compatible with several of the Adler 120 parts, feed dogs included, with the difference that the feed dogs for the 120 is a little taller, thus protruding higher above the needle plate. If you look closely on the Adler 120 you can see that the needle plate is slightly thicker to mitigate this.