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  1. Here is what I did. I decided I wanted the pattern to be 3/4" total (height). 1 1/2" belt, my stitch line is usually at 3/16" in. I measured in to where I needed to be for the pattern. I then decide 4 1/8" would be the perfect legth of the arc. I tried several different round items I had laying on the bench turns out a small kitchen plate made the perfect arc. Then I just ran the arc, over and over until it was done. Very easy and it will be really easy next time since I wont have to wonder how to do it.
  2. Thank you for that. I appreciate it.
  3. https://www.triplek.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/271.jpg clearly I can figure it out, I was just hoping someone had a trick or advice on how to lay it out.. The stitching isnt hard I have a Cobra Class 4, and it makes belts nice. This belt will be 1/4" thick with a nylon liner (the guy is a heavy guy this will keep it from stretching)
  4. I make lots of belts, however nobody has ever wanted a lazy stiched belt. Is there a formula that makes laying it out easy? Or does someone have a pattern they could send me that I could print out and duplicate. Thank you.
  5. I know you already have plenty of suggestions but... I would have just lined that top portion of the tote above the cut out or including just under the cut out. You could set the 3 snaps in the liner and then glue and stitch it to the rest. Nothing would show from the outside and would be cheap and easy to do.
  6. I have a piece of leather that started as 2 oz that I ran through my skiver. It is now really really thin. If I need to, I just keep that under the foot as its moving. I just keep pulling it along. I find as long as my leather is really dry, I dont get feet tracks. (cobra class 4)
  7. weldwood straight no thinning needed (unless it got old then you can thin with a number of things, they sell a thinner for it) goes on smooth and clean, thinner than barge, you can buy it locally, cheaper and like Dwight said, only if you tear the leather will you break the bond (assuming you apply it correctly)
  8. If you told us what all you have tried it would help with a diagnosis. We also dont know your skill or knowledge level, so this may sound like we are talking down to you. I have a class 18. You understand that the top and bottom tension is adjustable correct? If the stitches are not going down then maybe you need to reduce the tension on top. So turn the knob counter clockwise. If that doesnt help. You can also increase the tension in your bobbin case/carrier what ever you want to call it. If you have tried that then let us know. Let us know what all you have tried, what needle and what thread too.
  9. I dont think that an online saddlemaking school would be as good as a few week or few month class that was one on one in person with an accomplished saddlemaker. However, I think it is doable. With webcams you could easily show the instructor details of what you are working on or struggling with. They could also show you things the same way. I have several saddlemaking books, several videos and other resources, but being able to ask questions to the right person and get the right answer would be good. Sure you can ask questions on online forums, but lets face it there are alot of people who think they are knowledgable and arent. (not just this forum probably all forums regardless of the topic)
  10. Im not very informed about the kickstarter thing. What is it you are asking for money for? and Why? Do you not have the money to buy leather for watch straps? If you do, why not just sell them? I dont understand.. (this isnt condemnation, just questions)
  11. I have molds that have only been used once or maybe a few times. It happens. If I dont have it, I just get ahold of my mold suppliers, see if the mold is available and then nail down how long it will take to get, THEN I quote the buyer my lead time. In the long term you will probably make something else for that mold. Like someone else mentioned go ahead and make a couple more holsters for that mold and list them for sale. Maybe someone else is looking for something oddball. Sometimes I cant make a holster for someone. If I cant source a mold or the real gun. It sucks. I have to explain that only the most popular guns get made into molds. I have had people offer to buy the mold for me, because they knew that they had something out of the ordinary. I have always said no. This is part of our business.
  12. I have a kick press and of course the tandy snap setters as well. I just got the snap setter a month ago and love it. It sets snaps so much cleaner. Money well spent. (although I dont use alot of snaps in my business) I do use the pull the dot snaps and bought that extra die as well.
  13. I think you may be thinking of curving it too much. You arent going to easily curve it past a mild smiley face shape. Once the belt is around the waist it doesnt need a lot of curve, just enough that the bottom flares out. Everyday wear of course will do this on it own but this is nicer on the hips. For a buscadero, you may have to cut it at on the curve for a 4" belt if you want that much curve.
  14. There are a couple ways I know to do it. Im sure there are more ways. 1 Actually cut the rig in a curve. I know some top holster makers that do that. 2. Cut your belt straight, wet the belt (prior to stitching) let dry, then stitch it. I do this method for the most part. I get the belt wet, then carefully manipulate the belt into an arc. I generally know the body shape of my cowboy holster buyers. If they have wide hips they get more curve. If they are thin and have no hips they just get a little curve.
  15. Those look nicely done. Funny I just made that style of holster for someone. I dont normally ever make that style, older gentleman wanted it. Plain though not pretty like yours.