Contributing Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About HBAR

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

LW Info

  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    search engine

Recent Profile Visitors

1,077 profile views
  1. I think you may be thinking of curving it too much. You arent going to easily curve it past a mild smiley face shape. Once the belt is around the waist it doesnt need a lot of curve, just enough that the bottom flares out. Everyday wear of course will do this on it own but this is nicer on the hips. For a buscadero, you may have to cut it at on the curve for a 4" belt if you want that much curve.
  2. There are a couple ways I know to do it. Im sure there are more ways. 1 Actually cut the rig in a curve. I know some top holster makers that do that. 2. Cut your belt straight, wet the belt (prior to stitching) let dry, then stitch it. I do this method for the most part. I get the belt wet, then carefully manipulate the belt into an arc. I generally know the body shape of my cowboy holster buyers. If they have wide hips they get more curve. If they are thin and have no hips they just get a little curve.
  3. Those look nicely done. Funny I just made that style of holster for someone. I dont normally ever make that style, older gentleman wanted it. Plain though not pretty like yours.
  4. I ordered one as well from you guys link earlier. $22 delivered for the deluxe one? cant hurt, may help.
  5. Bob Parks has an edge marker out. Angellus also sells their version too. I think Bobs is wider and stiff enough that you dont get little fibers hanging over the edge. You fill them with dye and just keep them filled. It works well.
  6. t-nut is the answer. Slide in t-nut. Amazon, grainger, mcmasters, everyone carries them. and about 10 different varieties of them.
  7. looks like the things every man I know has right now. Every guy in the military has the same stuff.
  8. how long would or should thread be good in your opinon... kept sealed in ziploc bag and out of any sunlight stored in a cardboard box. Is it indefinite? Ten years? Anyone know?
  9. If you want, you can end your liner right before the tongue hole. Go ahead and dye that edge and burnish it. When you get the glueing done and you go to sew it you can start a couple stitches onto the double layer, then back up just over the edge, sew the belt and when you get to the other side stitch just over your edge then back up a couple stitches. Basically your liner will be 4 inches shorter than the rest of the belt. I hope any of that make sense. Doing it that way makes a nice pocket for the center bar and it keeps the bulk down. I have done it several ways. I have seen people skive the bottom side of both layers before glueing. I have seen people skive the liner after its glued. Which way is best... I dont know.
  10. Matt, Did you say this was all hand sewn? That would be a lot of work for sure. Is the belt lined? Since its shiny on the inside it looks like it. If it is lined sew your billet, chape and bullet loops through just one layer. It should be easier for you to do it that way, and it will step up the finished look. It looks good the way it is now though. If you want you could make your bullet loops a little narrower to allow for getting the bullets out easier. They wont fall out, dont worry about that. It looks like you have them about 1" now, you could go 3/4" or less still.
  11. Many people just use hose. Many people have done it this way for many years. It works. Kydex holster makers use a lot of this stuff. Me too. If you want to pay for a product here are some choices. All the other pieces you need are there as well. http://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=553_639 http://www.shopdiyholster.com/o-rings/ http://www.ifithermoplastics.com/products/spacer
  12. Its just another way to secure the belt tunnel area. You could sew it of course or use some sort of metallic fastners, but for a holster with no skirt, I like this style. You punch holes only through one layer of the holster before you glue. You mark the holes on the liner and make sure you dont glue where the lace will go through. It doesnt show inside.
  13. Dwight, I used to make the rigs with loops. People dont want them. I sometimes put 5 on one hip. Mostly the game of Cowboy Action is played by older people. They dont want the weight of the guns and a full cartridge belt too. Basically a match entails standing for 4-5 hours with all the gear. Now people have a few extra cartridge loops on either their shotgun belt or shotgun slide. Personally I like having an actual cartridge belt, but for the game there is no real reason to.
  14. I made this for a lady shooter. She shoots black powder with a mexican loop style holster set up now. The holsters were not made for cowboy action, so they are 1 layer, floppy and too restrictive. I took Johanna's SLIM JIM pattern from this forum (thank you) cut it down and reshaped it to make this rig. I normally make the holsters much more minimal for competition rigs. This holster (I hope) maintains the original feel of the Slim Jim, Old West holsters. The holsters are around 12/13 oz and the belt is maybe 14 oz or slightly more. Fully lined (of course) I distressed the finish to, hopefully give it some charachter. Dark Brown Fiebings oil dye. 3/8 spots The belt is preshaped for comfort.
  15. I too bought various feet from Steve at leathermachineco.com. He has always had time to answer my questions and get me what I needed. I dont remember the feet being very expensive either.