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About Nuttish

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Hand stitched personal leather goods

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  1. Saddle Soap Application Methods

    Make a solution and apply it with a graffiti drip pen.
  2. The foot is considered a wear part. The old manuals say you can send them in to be reground. I doubt anyone does this anymore and new ones cost enough that a bit of my own time is worth it. I've dressed feet by sticking progressively finer sandpaper to the outside of the bell knife with double sided tape to match the radius of the right edge to the radius of the knife. Then used sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to dress the inside taper leading down to the righthand edge and round the righthand edge over so it doesn't mark my leather.
  3. getting my logo stamp, suggestions?

    If you have Illustrator or Inkscape, you should consider drawing your mark in vectors and having some magnesium or copper plates made from a place like Owosso Plates in Michigan. They make letterpress and hot stamping dies by the square inch. Just figure out what dies you want and what size sheet they'll fit on. If you're hand stamping with a mallet, you can JB Weld them to a piece of steel rod that adequately supports the entire back of the image area of the die. This will be many times cheaper than having a single custom stamp made and you'll be able to get a variety of stamps.
  4. Pfaff 1245 706/47

    The top results of my first Google search for "pfaff 1245 feet" contained listings for good used OEM Pfaff feet for your machine costing less than $50. The Chinese feet from meet your description of not fitting. Half of the feet I've gotten required some amount of filing or drilling to work. Something to keep in mind when looking for used parts is that they're often sold by part number, not the machine or machines they fit. For the most part, all Pfaff parts are stamped with a part number. Get the 1245 parts book for a list of all feet, plates, and accessories for your machine. There are loads of used parts out there.
  5. Custom acrylic templates

    There used to be a hackerspace in Barrie and IIRC folks were working on founding another downtown. They'll pretty much always have laser engravers suitable for cutting the 1/8" acrylic you'd use for templates and I'm dead certain you could find a nerd willing to cut your pieces for way less than a job shop would charge.
  6. Knot help

    This is the definitive encyclopedia of knots. Maybe you'll find something interesting that suits your purpose.
  7. Granite Slab

    Find a "surface plate" intended for a machine shop or a piece of marble or granite from a grave monument fabricator.
  8. Fortuna Skiver Questions

    I wouldn't say these things are particularly easy to repair at all if there's appreciable runout in the sharpening stone or bell knife drive shafts. If the thing is running, color the knife edge with a marker and lightly touch the sharpening stone to the edge and see whether it contacts relatively evenly. If not, I'd pass unless it's cheap and you already know how to fix these things or want to learn how and like spending money on parts. Reiterate what others said about the accessories.
  9. Bell Knife Skiver

    The Fortuna machine is the industry standard. I would expect the Cowboy clone to be good quality. Parts are going to be easy to get from them or Campbell Randall. That's the machine to lean toward. There really aren't any alternatives to that type of skiving machine anyway.
  10. How to keep my ruler from sliding?

    Rubber cement some wide rubber bands to the bottom. Or just paint the bottom with a generous coat of rubber cement all on its own.
  11. Edging for newbies

    What kind of leather is that, what tools and chemicals did you use, and what's wrong with your edges in your view?
  12. Lekoza??

    KS Blade makes the ones I found first.
  13. Tools maintenance

    We clean rust with oxalic acid and then rub paraffin into a little piece of flannel and polish the tool. Works great.
  14. Lekoza??

    In just the last year or so several nice hand brogue punches have become available in the US. Lekoza isn't the only show in town. The only prior option I could find was a very expensive German tool.
  15. DIY Filler for Edges?

    As I said, PVA is a great filler and on its own burnishes beautifully. It's durable and remains flexible enough for our purposes. However, it remains porous to water and could always stand to be mechanically stronger. I make my solution based on protocols from academic articles from polymer and materials science journals. I'd rather not completely give away the secret sauce, but with these search terms you'll easily be able to figure out what I'm doing with cheap and readily available ingredients: crosslink PVA glutaraldehyde.