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    Searches on industrial sewing machines

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  1. Taking TK-8BL Sewing Machine

    Most of the 3L belts are available in half-inch steps, at least here in these parts. Its why the size is designated in 3 digits, such as "3L425" being a 42-1/2" belt. -DC
  2. Tension

    Its probably an illusion or an artifact of a poor res monitor, but it almost looks like your thread could be going *behind* the tension disc rather than between them on the side-on photo. It happens- something to double check. -DC
  3. Brother A-7200b-405

    I've used both the RPC and the electronic *static phase converters* and I would have to say, the static version is probably the way to go for indoor (such as IN HOME) use. Once connected, they are invisible to the they are not even there. You do take a small HP hit with either the rotary or static, and the roto is said to be slightly better in that regard, but really, for sewing machines, its probably academic. The roto phase type requires a 220v single phase motor to run constantly if you are needing 220v/3ph you have a couple of the primary disadvantages of using a clutch motor right there....the motor is always running, meaning noise and power consumption, in addition to your always-on old school sewing machine motor. The upside is, the roto is rated in terms of the motor HP it will will *run* several motors simultaneously as long as the start load is not exceeded. An electronic servo motor or a VFD are probably similar in cost, but it won't give you the high production automatic functions like programmable back tack/thread trim/needle up/down etc. if those things are required. -DC
  4. Bauer 1919 harness machine

    Here is one in the wild: -DC
  5. It doesn't look like any of the feet you pictured are the type you need, and as far as I know, the 227 uses the ultra-common SInger 111W style inner and outer foot. The ones you pictured are (1) the normal single-needle high shank feet mostly used by garment class machines, and the others(2) all appear to be the walking foot style which Pfaff uses to fit their own proprietary take on walking foot machines....they are superficially similar but will not interchange with the Singer machines. The width of the inner foot and the feed dog its self make the "spring loaded edge guide foot" a bit tricky to make for any distance less than 1/8". You may find a narrow inner foot combined with a right or left toe zipper foot used in conjunction with a fixed edge guide to be the route to explore, if I understand how you are going to sew the edges. Your dealer should easily be able to set you up with a couple of edge guide options and get you a set of zipper feet....I suggest getting both a right and left outer foot while you are at it. -DC
  6. Juki LU-562 subclass 3

    I think I would keep practicing one of the various *stitch locking methods* evolved in a time when reverse was rare, while you scour the sale lists for a bargain on a (non-subclass 3) LU-563 or one of the other dozens of roughly equivalent walking foot machines which come with reverse. It DOES happen. You will certainly be money ahead in this endeavor. I sort of prefer the LU-563 and some of the Singer 211's simply because of the *U* style bobbins... -DC
  7. Measuring error

    Every one of the table-edge yardsticks I have are pretty inaccurate...I suspect the vinyl T-molding edge trim that these rules are printed on stretches over time, or was stretched varying amounts at the time of application. The older green Singer tables as well as the newer gold ones (still ancient) both are useless. The later model tops with their rule printed on the surface laminate seem OK. -DC
  8. Monster Adler 120-2

    I've been making up my tables with the "servo" mounted on the top rear of the table....where the "dead space" for big lamps and thread stands usually is. This is a bad picture of my "universal table" for various "domestic" sized machines, and I set up my 29B that way as soon as the box was opened. The price point is now attractive enough to kill off the pathetic "domestic" stock motors for good, in my hideout. And... Since we don't have to shoehorn in 45 incredibly awkward pounds of archaic, buzzing, *watermellon sized* motors anymore, the main reason for going underneath the table at all has sort of gone the way of the dodo, at least for the casual user. I doubt I'll ever slot a table for belts again. -DC
  9. -DC
  10. One thing about off-the-shelf binders in general, assuming you find one to mount on your Seiko, is they are usually made to accept pretty thin materials, and wont feed or fold properly if you go to a bit thicker or wider material than their design specs....some don't ever seem to work well even then. The folders from Suisei have a good reputation for off-the-shelf functionality. One of the advertisers here may handle them, or you can call Sailrite to see about a rush purchase. You WILL need to tell them what you are using it with, if you can use an in inline or need a right angle folder, if its for single "raw edge" tape or double fold/bias/straight fabric, how thick the tape and material to be bound is, and how wide the tape you want to use is. You also may need the correct feet/feed dog and needle plates, depending on what you are trying to do. Assembling random folder components which will produce professional grade results for demanding clients can be.....problematic. Good luck! -DC
  11. Odd Adler Cylinder Arm Machine?

    Amazing machine- If the Singer 11 version is any guide, it could do ALL the above, depending on which subclass it is and what accessories it has. The rod in the slot just left of the front handwheel does seem to be the adjustment for ZZ width. Getting across the arm, up the arm, or zig-zag in one model is pretty awesome. -DC
  12. Odd Adler Cylinder Arm Machine?

    If it is actually a *feed up the arm machine*, as hinted at by the shape of the foot, then that slide arrangement could be a possible stitch length regulator and/or a part of a needle feed mechanism, as the throw for both would travel in the long axis of the arm. Whichever it is, it needs to live here with me. -DC
  13. About the only thing I do different on mine is to replace the shaft with a threaded version that will accept every bobbin type I own...from the Singer 29K's large bobbin to the Juki LU-563. A #12 thread works about right with the diameter range.
  14. Mitsubishi DU-105

    The upper portion of the Mitsubishi CU-865 *looks* identical to the 105....I expect the thread path is the same. -DC 8-13.pdf
  15. Just from looks, it may be that there is actually an *offset adapter* attaching the foot to the bar that could be replaced or need to determine where the needle position center needs to be in relation to the presser foot bar, and whether this machine does a right home or left home like several makes of ZZ machines do. -DC