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  1. Measuring error

    Every one of the table-edge yardsticks I have are pretty inaccurate...I suspect the vinyl T-molding edge trim that these rules are printed on stretches over time, or was stretched varying amounts at the time of application. The older green Singer tables as well as the newer gold ones (still ancient) both are useless. The later model tops with their rule printed on the surface laminate seem OK. -DC
  2. Monster Adler 120-2

    I've been making up my tables with the "servo" mounted on the top rear of the table....where the "dead space" for big lamps and thread stands usually is. This is a bad picture of my "universal table" for various "domestic" sized machines, and I set up my 29B that way as soon as the box was opened. The price point is now attractive enough to kill off the pathetic "domestic" stock motors for good, in my hideout. And... Since we don't have to shoehorn in 45 incredibly awkward pounds of archaic, buzzing, *watermellon sized* motors anymore, the main reason for going underneath the table at all has sort of gone the way of the dodo, at least for the casual user. I doubt I'll ever slot a table for belts again. -DC
  3. -DC
  4. One thing about off-the-shelf binders in general, assuming you find one to mount on your Seiko, is they are usually made to accept pretty thin materials, and wont feed or fold properly if you go to a bit thicker or wider material than their design specs....some don't ever seem to work well even then. The folders from Suisei have a good reputation for off-the-shelf functionality. One of the advertisers here may handle them, or you can call Sailrite to see about a rush purchase. You WILL need to tell them what you are using it with, if you can use an in inline or need a right angle folder, if its for single "raw edge" tape or double fold/bias/straight fabric, how thick the tape and material to be bound is, and how wide the tape you want to use is. You also may need the correct feet/feed dog and needle plates, depending on what you are trying to do. Assembling random folder components which will produce professional grade results for demanding clients can be.....problematic. Good luck! -DC
  5. Odd Adler Cylinder Arm Machine?

    Amazing machine- If the Singer 11 version is any guide, it could do ALL the above, depending on which subclass it is and what accessories it has. The rod in the slot just left of the front handwheel does seem to be the adjustment for ZZ width. Getting across the arm, up the arm, or zig-zag in one model is pretty awesome. -DC
  6. Odd Adler Cylinder Arm Machine?

    If it is actually a *feed up the arm machine*, as hinted at by the shape of the foot, then that slide arrangement could be a possible stitch length regulator and/or a part of a needle feed mechanism, as the throw for both would travel in the long axis of the arm. Whichever it is, it needs to live here with me. -DC
  7. About the only thing I do different on mine is to replace the shaft with a threaded version that will accept every bobbin type I own...from the Singer 29K's large bobbin to the Juki LU-563. A #12 thread works about right with the diameter range.
  8. Mitsubishi DU-105

    The upper portion of the Mitsubishi CU-865 *looks* identical to the 105....I expect the thread path is the same. -DC 8-13.pdf
  9. Just from looks, it may be that there is actually an *offset adapter* attaching the foot to the bar that could be replaced or need to determine where the needle position center needs to be in relation to the presser foot bar, and whether this machine does a right home or left home like several makes of ZZ machines do. -DC
  10. Many walking-foot triple-feed machines used for binding are equipped with the horizontal-only feed dog movement, with the Pfaff 335 and its many clones probably the most familiar. I have a Mitsubishi CU-865-22 which has this system, and it really gives me no trouble feeding the range of materials I usually take to it. Some of the binding combinations are NOT particularly easy to feed if you think about it.....The elliptical or 4-motion feed dog movement is probably more forgiving in some instances, but it all depends on what you are going to be sewing. The way the center foot moves on a needle-feed walking foot system lets it press the work to the feed dog and travel with it, which is a reasonably effective transport. Give it an audition as is and it may surprise you. -DC
  11. Treadle rod

    Most industrial sewing machines use a "3L" belt, which come in half-inch increments. Example: A 32" belt will be a 3L-320, a 32-1/2" would be a 3L-325. -DC
  12. Treadle refurb.

    The "laminate trimmer bits" with a ball bearing guide do an excellent job. The important thing to remember is to carefully inspect the inner edges of the hole which will act as the guide for your cutter, since it will duplicate any defects present. An automotive body filler such as "Bondo" does an excellent job. I much prefer the older plywood from salvaged tables for my own stuff, as there is no comparison between the older higher-density plywood and the pressed rubbish being sold now. -DC
  13. The clutch motor....

    I was looking at the decal where it says "Foot lift output 24V" and thinking hmmm.... -DC
  14. Nice job, and stainless is definitely the way to go! -DC
  15. I'm seeing several spec sheets on the 30" 158 which list the machine's weight as 108kg...nowhere close to 400 lbs. -DC