SARK9

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About SARK9

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  1. Seiko SK-6 followed me home

    Seiko SK-6 Minor tune up and stitching test- I bought a selection of needles and needle types, plus some heavy thread to get the machine adjusted and confirm it would function reliably at the upper end of its capacity. First go was with a #24 RP needle and T270 thread top/T210 bottom. Material sewn was a rectangle of 3/8" very firm "stall mat rubber" wrapped in about 10 layers of 1000D Cordura. Total thickness measured 0.456" or about 11.6mm. This seems to be about the max practical foot lift before the main tension discs unload. I'll look around for any tips or tricks to increase the machine's lift capacity a slight bit more. The machine did a good job on the upper stitch, but needed more upper tension as the knots were just visible on the underside. Of more concern was about 4 skipped stitches right at the beginning of the test. I looked at the hook/needle proximity and the needle eye seemed quite a bit too close to the hook point....checking the needle bar showed a small difference in patina around the clamp, suggesting the needle bar had slipped up at some point and needed to be reset and tightened. Without a service guide I just watched the loop form and lowered the bar to what I would consider a typical relationship to the hook point. I increased the upper tension about a full twist. Hand cycling detected no hard bits making contact. I switched over to some T-350 top thread/T270 bobbin thread and a #26 needle. The machine seemed to stitch quite well and feed pretty uniformly with the heavier thread and needle after the adjustments. The machine is making a VERY nice tight stitch now. I DO miss the reverse levers I've become addicted to but this gives me an excuse to do the "flip it 180" lock stitch technique. Top side stitching left picture, bottom on right. You can see the second test with the 350/270 thread on the bottom since the 277 bobbin thread was white on the 2nd run: -DC
  2. Seiko SK-6 followed me home

    Dikman quoth: "The only thing that I can see wrong with the table is the colour!" The std. 20" wide table top is a bit too narrow for a heavy machine with a bed width of around 10"....it crowds things, particularly on the underside, plus who needs an excuse to make a new top? @DFH--> Nicklesville is around an hour away, pretty much right down the road. @DonInReno Did you see the "official specs" from the Seiko manual I copied? Needle DDX1 #18 to #29, Seriously? My charts show that needle size is good for a ridiculous sized thread, though the thread specs show it tops out with #5/T-350. Whoa. I'm not exactly sure what converts to the #00 size....The machine came with some diamond point needles, and I've got some fabric needles on the way. I'll have to see it work with T-70 to believe that one. @Constabulary Good info on the presser feet, I only have the one that came with it. I have a sort of universal standalone bobbin winder made up with opposed cones on the shaft that handles anything from my 29K bobbins thru this machine's monsters...the drip pan would be nice, but dang! From Germany? Sounds like a bunch of postage stamps would give their life for that one! If you still have a 132K with a head rest peg, I'd love to see a picture of it tilted back to show how the "factory" intended for the machine head to be supported. -DC
  3. I picked up one of these next-level upholstery type machines over the holidays....just in case I needed a bigger hole punched in something! The machine was sitting in a rather crude sawed hole in a too-narrow "standard" industrial table....the first order of business was to clean out the inletting to allow clearance for the machine to tilt back, and rout the table top for the usual hinges. Next, the motor that came with it was physically too large to allow the foot-lift chain's connection to function....I swapped it with one of my older Consew CS-1000's (with the optical gradient controller), then relocated the pedals to suit. I popped in a spare 9-1/2" X 2" reducer pulley, which with the nice large handwheel pulley and a 2" motor pulley should yield about a 7:1 ratio. Slow it is! The backside of the machine is a pretty curvy landscape....I'd appreciate some input from one of the folks here with a Singer 132K* or similar for advice on where to locate the head rest peg in the table, or what part of the machine head seems to be the best support area for this sorta heavy item to rest on. I'll make up a new table for it after it warms up enough to paint and use contact cement. -DC
  4. Juki 1541 or Cowboy 3200

    A practical approach you might consider is to get the new CB3200 or similar with warranty and dealer support, then add a flatbed attachment if needed. This gets you sewing with the maximum versatility right off the bat, using a machine that has a large current following and plenty of experienced advisers for your applications. You could take the money you save on the price difference between the 3200 and a new 1508 class machine and look for a serious deal on one of the very popular upholstery-type walking foot flatbed machines, such as the Juki LU-563, the Consew 206RB*, Seiko STH-8BL, or literally dozens of similar good quality models that frequently show up in usable condition at attractive prices. Its not impossible that the dealer you approach for your 3200-type machine would make you a package deal to include an older flatbed candidate, and he will know the how to navigate the huge range of models available. Several of these older machines such as the Juki LU-563 can often use T-210 thread, or be modified to run it. -DC
  5. Cut-Line c-225 Max Thread

    Looks like a clone of a Mitsubishi DU-105, also cloned by Chandler as a C-75. Here's a video demo of something similar- -DC
  6. What Hand Stichers are out there?

    Has someone out there actually SEEN a 45K71 with the side handwheel? I'm curious about the mechanics involved, as the photo seems to suggest a picture of that handwheel sort of floating in space... ?? It must use an external bevel gear that just engages the rear mounted handwheel.... -DC
  7. Modern high performance threads

    Like he said. The lack of bonding on most Kevlar threads is a bit of a hassle when threading your needle.... First, its often very difficult to cut cleanly and tends to *puff out* with nearly invisible straggler filaments when the cut end is even slightly touched. Miss the eye on your first stab and you usually have to re-trim the frayed end. Also, you won't be melting or burning the ends of your thread tails. Color selection is pretty skimpy, and the colorfastness is a bit of a gamble with different brands. Mostly you need to find something to like about its natural yellowish color. I have used a little on nearly every machine I have at one time or another, from T-45 to T-210, and other than the hassle threading the needles, its never seemed to be that fussy to sew with any of my hooks set normally, but then, I don't really sew production quantities, just specific sporadic needs. You probably don't want to wrap a big birds nest all around and under your hook.... -DC
  8. Modern high performance threads

    The Thread Exchange has info on most of this stuff- https://www.thethreadexchange.com/downloads/the-thread-exchange_Kevlar_guide.pdf https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=ptfe-fiberglass-Thread-Information Some of my research for my own applications indicates that Kevlar materials are not particularly suitable for prolonged UV exposure, and there are cases where its own relative strength is reported to be a disadvantage, as it is so much more durable than the materials it interfaces with that it can "saw" its way thru joined items in certain conditions of load stress and movement. Your designs need to take several factors into account when you wish to take full advantage of the remarkable strength of these aramid materials. -DC
  9. #1 looks like a Singer 241 or 245....oil bath type garment machine with no oil pan to be seen. #3 is one of the 211 models...I can't see a reverse lever on it, but who knows. At worst its similar to one of the Singer 111W machines, so its useful if its cheap. The Juki is one of the more modern single needle straight stitch machines, from a front view I have no idea exactly which one, but it is straight stitch only. It also needs its oil pan, and the table and rubber corner mounts that make it fit the cutout properly. #4 is a most likely a Singer 281, another straight stitch oil bath type machine with no reverse. #5 looks to be a model 78 Singer, its a walking foot machine with NO LOWER FEED, but some folks like the stitches it makes just fine and keep them around. Last one looks like a Singer model 31, the 31-15 is most common but there are several others, including at least one model that has reverse. All the "oil bath" machines really need the reservoir pan that holds the oil for the pump pickups. Caveat Emptor. -DC
  10. Has this ever been done?

    I have a manual screw machine (turret lathe) that uses the spring-loaded variable pitch pulley pairs which are activated by a lever....it is not effortless to move the lever, nor is the response time particularly quick. This arrangement could have the components reduced in scale for the very light demands of a sewing machine I suppose, and overcome some of the physical effort and response disadvantages. With the other options more readily available, like VFD's, various servos, and even the antiquated clutch motor itself, this seems to be more like a proposition of "why open a door when you can just tunnel under it?". -DC
  11. Cast iron bed crack - options

    Alas, the hammered rosemary seems to have been discontinued. There may yet be odd cans on high shelves that have not been sold here and there, but none of the Rust-oleum sites online show this as a current color offering. If there is any retail stock remaining, I certainly can't find it. -DC .
  12. What should I look for on a used Juki LU-563?

    Its possible you are thinking of the problem with the Consew 206 series that was corrected with the 206-RB5's stitch dial locking lever. The Juki stitch length control is similar to the Singer 111W models. You may have meant the reverse lever? -DC
  13. I'm pretty sure some of the non-electronic "servo" motors have a brake pad of sorts....try depressing the pedal slightly to see if it disengages it. -DC
  14. Mounting servo on top of table

    When I'm using a table with a "normal" stand and existing pedal, I made up some adapter brackets for the remote sender unit: -DC