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    DIY Marine Canvas and Sail Repair

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  1. Here is Wiz's video of a compound walking-foot machine that shows the movement of the "inside foot and needle." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-QjJgJKKVM
  2. Chapter 4 of NAVEDTRA 14217 which includes the Consew 225, which I think lacks reverse but might be similar, might help. On page 4-9: 2. Adjusting the total relative lift of the alternating pressers The total relative lift of the alternating pressers referred to here is that the feet lift one-half inch at total lift. .... http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf
  3. Here are four ways to lock stitches at the start and end of a run without back-tack reverse: 1. Bury the needle, turn the material end for end and sew over the seam. The result is the same as a back-tack but not always practical for large projects. 2. Sew to the end of the run. Lift the foot slightly pull the material about 1/2 inch toward you, drop the foot and sew over the seam. It is important when pulling the material toward you to maintain upper and lower thread tension to avoid a jam. 3. At each end of the run, leave several inches of thread. Tug the thread on the under-side and pull the top-thread through. Tie off the two threads with a surgeon's knot. A square knot can be used, but a surgeon's knot is more secure. 4. Same as above, but leave even longer threads. Do not pull through. Thread a needle on each and sew several stitches back through the same holes in the seam, essentially the same as a manual saddle-stitch. A hassle, but the resulting back-tack should be more secure than a machine back-tack. Also, the result is cosmetic. However, reverse, at lease on some machines, can be used for needle positioning, such at the end of run or when turning a corner.
  4. 201k clutch slipping

    Here is a cached link to the TFSR sewing machine manual that includes Singer 201, and that might be helpful. The manual is also available elsewhere for a fee. http://web.archive.org/web/20160403015721/http://www.tfsr.org/publications/technical_information/sewing_machine_manual/ You might want to download all chapters before the cache disappears.
  5. Both multifilament polypropylene rope (ask for floating line) and nylon webbing can be purchased at a chandlery. For looking online you might try West Marine or APS for the line. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/samson-rope--mfp-multi-filament-polypropylene-floatline--P005_152_002_503?recordNum=7 http://www.apsltd.com/line/polypropylene-sailboat-line-rope.html For webbing or 3/8" line, you might try Sailrite. https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=nylon webbing https://www.sailrite.com/Regatta-Lite-Single-Braid-Polypropylene-Line-3-8-Yellow
  6. Help with singer 99k

    Raksha, Below is a link to a manual for several vintage Singer machines, including the 99. The manual in chapters used to be online but has been removed. However, here is a link to a cached copy. If interested, you might want to download a copy of all chapters before it really disappears. However, a copy is now available elsewhere for sale. http://web.archive.org/web/20160403015721/http://www.tfsr.org/publications/technical_information/sewing_machine_manual/
  7. Juki 563

    Chapter 4 of a manual that might be helpful for self-service is: http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf and that states: "Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical ...." Here is an edited version of chapter 4: http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/USNavySinger111WConsew225REPAIR.pdf
  8. Knot help

    I should have mentioned that a simple, pleasing looking and reliable knot that might fit the OP's application is the figure-eight loop, aka figure-eight follow thru, figure-eight on a bight, flemish-eight or flemish loop. https://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/
  9. Knot help

    The bowline is reliable under load but does have limitations. According to wikipedia: "Although the bowline is generally considered a reliable knot, its main deficiencies are a tendency to work loose when not under load, to slip when pulled sideways[3] and the bight portion of the knot to capsize in certain circumstances.[4] To address these shortcomings, a number of more secure variations of the bowline have been developed for use in safety-critical applications." Among more reliable bowline variants are the cassock bowline, double or triple bowline, water bowline and Yosemite tie-off bowline. https://knowpreparesurvive.com/survival/skills/bowline-knots/
  10. Knot help

    Here is a link to an animated knot web site. There are other sites. https://www.animatedknots.com
  11. Juki 563

    The best copy of the manual I've found is on Gregg's Keysew web site. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf
  12. Juki Dnu1541S troubleshooting

    I'm sure somebody who can help will respond soon. Assuming you already have a user manual, attached is the service manual that might be helpful. JUKI_DNU-1541_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf
  13. Sewing machine repair book.

    Here is an old thread with links to US Army sewing machine operation manuals: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/22758-us-army-sewing-machine-operation-manuals/
  14. Using Wax Lube Pot on a 441

    Your lub-pot is opaque, and thread-path cannot be seen. I've only used the Sailrite lub-pot and have not had that problem. The Sailrite thread-path is on the bottom of the pot, and only a small amount of lub in the pot is necessary. The reservoir is transparent, and the lub-level can be seen for replenishment. There is also a screw-on cap, so oil is unlikely to slosh out.
  15. Deep Cleaning a Juki 563

    Here is a link on penetrating oils, including WD40. You might want to test a small spot for aggressiveness before applying liberally. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/