Tejas

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About Tejas

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    DIY Marine Canvas and Sail Repair

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  1. I think you are looking for a technique for aesthetics, so I'm not sure this helps, but as for ending at a particular point, I sew to one less stitch from the ending point and with the needle up use the reverse level to shorten the last stitch to end as close as I can to to the desired point.
  2. Here is a file that seems about the same as troubleshooting2 but in a different format. sewing_troubleshooting_chart.pdf
  3. I got a custom binder from Keysew, and am quite pleased with it. http://store.keysew.com/sewing-parts-and-accessories/460-custom-angle-binder
  4. As for how to install the zipper slides, the image in link below was taken from a The Green Pepper pattern. http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx61/Tejasdave/Double Pull Zipper/Dual Pull Zipper Scaled_zpsrx9cympk.jpeg
  5. As mentioned in a previous post, I buy zippers from Sailrite, always YKK zippers, including finished zippers, and continuous zippers, zipper sliders and zipper stops. Making double pull zippers from continuous zippers is not difficult. Sailrite has zipper videos than might be helpful, and that should be applicable for continuous zippers acquired elsewhere. http://www.sailrite.com/type/Projects--AND--Tips?keywords=zipper http://www.sailrite.com/Zipper-All-Questions-Answered-about-Zippers-Streaming-Video I've not tried it, but apparently a finished zipper can be converted into a double pull zipper. https://justinelimpusparish.wordpress.com/2010/11/01/making-a-double-head-zipper/
  6. I buy zippers from Sailrite. http://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Zipper
  7. As for changing the bobbin without removing the bobbin, the machine was a Consew 206 RB, also using a right-angle binder at the time -- pulled out the old bobbin, put in a full bobbin, and continued sewing. I don't recall, but I think I later tied-off the threads on the underside.
  8. When I got my machine I decided upon the 1508 because I had learned on a top-load bobbin machine. Had I learned on a bottom-load machine, I might have decided upon the 1541. Prior to buying the 1508, I had sewed for two-weeks on a bottom-load machine, and the benefit of less requirement to hold the thread was not sufficient enough. An advantage of bottom-load -- mentioned by mixmkr -- the ability to change the bobbin without removing the material was not compelling to me. My other machine is a bottom-load machine, and I still prefer top-load, but then I sew only occasionally.
  9. I frequently use PTFE Tenara V-92 equivalent thread, threaded as you describe as "originally threaded" but with an additional loop -- four-hole guide vs three-hole -- with no problems on a Juki 1508. However, the 1508 thread-path cascades through two tension disks.
  10. The Juki 1500N Engineer's Manual lists the various models' specifications. Gregg characterizes the differences: "As for the H model of the LU-1508N...this machine has a heavier 'flywheel' or handwheel. It's about six pounds, the standard is is about one pound. This helps with starting torque starting the run and getting the machine turning over. The H model also has a heavy hook that will allow a larger needle and thread to be used. That's it, part for part, really. I don't really know why people would think this is a much heavier capacity machine than a standard walking foot is capable of. It's not." In the following thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66067-machine-choice-heavier-than-a-juki-1541s/ LU-1500N Engineer's Manual 2002.pdf
  11. As for lack of reverse, here are four ways to mitigate lack of reverse for back-tack. At the start and end of a run:1. Turn the material end for end and sew over the seam. The result is the same as a back-tack but not always practical for large projects.2. Sew to the end of the run. Lift the foot slightly pull the material about 1/2 inch toward you, drop the foot and sew over the seam.3. At each end of the run, leave several inches of thread. Tug the thread on the under-side and pull the top-thread through. Tie off the two threads with a surgeon's knot. A square knot can be used, but a surgeon's knot is more secure.4. Same as above, but leave even longer threads. Do not pull through. Thread a needle on each and sew several stitches through the same holes in the seam. A hassle, but the resulting back-tack should be more secure than a machine back-tack.There are situations where reverse can very useful, such a sewing around for some reason fairly far inboard from the edge of the material, such as a ppatch, but that can also be done by a combination of maneuvers similar to and including the manual back-tack described above. Another use is the ability to position the needle for a single, shorter stitch, such as at the end of a run. I started with a Singer 111W155 and really liked it.
  12. Attached is a copy of the service manual. For some reason the cover page with the document number is near the end of the pdf. Juki LS-1340&42 Servcie Manual.pdf
  13. Assuming that you have a user manual, attached is a service manual. JUKI_DNU-1541-S_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf
  14. Here's a link to the thread lubricator I use. http://www.sailrite.com/Magnetic-Thread-Lubricator