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About Tejas

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    DIY Marine Canvas and Sail Repair

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  1. Probably easy to make. The presser foot spacers I mentioned came as a set in various thicknesses. However, the seller's link is no longer valid.
  2. Here is a thread on similar subject. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/62249-sewing-through-thick-spots-with-juki-1541s/
  3. For sewing over difficult changes in layers, I use a jean-a-ma-jig or presser-foot spacers, aka hump-jumpers. Sew up to the hump, and with the needle buried raise the foot and insert the spacer behind the needle and manually sew up onto the hump. Sew across the hump. To sew off of the hump, while still on the hump raise the foot with the needle buried, insert the spacer in front of the needle and sew over the drop-off before removing the spacer. Manually climb the hump, over short humps and off the hump. https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Jean-Majig-Sewing-Product/dp/B005572NPS/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1506068841&sr=1-2&keywords=jean-a-ma-jig
  4. seiko CH8b manual

    This thread might help. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56568-seiko-ch-8b-or-singer-45b8bc/
  5. Specs on an Econosew 2060E8BLD

    According to http://forum.sailrite.com/econosew-2060al_topic462.html the Econosew 2060AL is quite similar to the then current Sailrite 111. From pictures, the 2060E8BLD seems close but not quite as similar. The Sailrite 111 Guidebook pdf is too large to attach. If you are interested, send me a PM, and I'll email a copy.
  6. Singer 111W155 Rehab

    Here is a Army manual starting on page 113 with detailed instructions for disassembly, but not much help for assembly. I haven't found a pdf, but hardcopy can (or at least could) be purchased via ebay. https://archive.org/stream/TM10-3530-202-24#page/n1/mode/2up
  7. Singer 111W155 Rehab

    Chapter 3 of this manual might be helpful. http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf
  8. A compound walking-foot machine might be more essential than you have experienced so far. I sew mostly marine canvas and when sewing canvas, the number of layers can mount up quickly. Simply sewing a double-fold hem over a semi-flat felled seam is nine layers. Sewing a double-fold hem over a flat felled seam is 12 layers. Doulble-hems at a corner also result in nine-layers but can be mitigated to fewer layers by mitering the corner. Add some webbing, and layers and thickness can increase quickly. Needle-feed also helps mitigate the tendency of lower-layers of material to feed faster than upper-layers with drop-feed machines.
  9. I think that the machine is a Cordes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvCpv6kllY8
  10. Juki DNU 241

    I thought that the Nakajima 280 later became the Juki 241. I don't know if it helps, but attached is a manual for the two machines. Juki-241H-Nakajima-280L.pdf
  11. JUKI Question

    I'm only familiar with two models -- 1541 and 1541S. The S model has a safety clutch, and while retails for only $100 more and is worth the expense. As for retail price and other information, the following link might be helpful. http://store.keysew.com/sewing-machines/juki-sewing Here are a few suggestions for buying used. When buying a used machine, try to find a manual online, or at least a few pictures. Sometimes machines are not even complete. If a manual cannot be found, try "how to thread [machine make and model]" on google. Take scissors, small screw drivers, thread and sample fabrics, needles, flashlight and of course the manual. Using different colored thread for needle thread and bobbin thread and different from the material color helps to be able to see the stitches and tension. First, ask the seller to demonstrate the machine if they can. Then with a flashlight look top, bottom and underneath at overall condition and especially for rust. Look at the slots in screws and the sides of bolt-heads for evidence of heavy-handed maintenance. Try to wiggle the needle bar by hand front to back and sideways. It should not move. The machine should be tight, but operated easily by turning the handwheel. The handwheel might have a little play but the feed and needle bar should not. The electrical connection on older machines can be a problem. Wind a bobbin with your thread and using your top thread, sew with your sample material. Verify that the stitches look OK both top and bottom. To test stitch length, set the stitch length, un-tread the needle and with the hand-wheel operate the machine sewing forward “sewing” a piece of light cardboard or heavy paper for a few inches. Then with the hand-wheel operate the machine in reverse. The needle holes in reverse should perfectly match the holes going forward. Remove the cardboard and measure the actual stitch-length versus the setting. Do that for various stitch lengths. If applicable, repeat for various zig zag widths. Beware that oil can become very viscous and interfere with the operation of a machine that has been unused for a very long time. In a severe case, the machine might need to be immersed in solvent to dissolve thickened oil. Attached is a Juki 1541 service manual for all models. JUKI_DNU-1541-S_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf
  12. I think you are looking for a technique for aesthetics, so I'm not sure this helps, but as for ending at a particular point, I sew to one less stitch from the ending point and with the needle up use the reverse level to shorten the last stitch to end as close as I can to to the desired point.
  13. Some Education Material

    Here is a file that seems about the same as troubleshooting2 but in a different format. sewing_troubleshooting_chart.pdf
  14. Edge banding on a juki 1541

    I got a custom binder from Keysew, and am quite pleased with it. http://store.keysew.com/sewing-parts-and-accessories/460-custom-angle-binder
  15. As for how to install the zipper slides, the image in link below was taken from a The Green Pepper pattern. http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx61/Tejasdave/Double Pull Zipper/Dual Pull Zipper Scaled_zpsrx9cympk.jpeg