superpacker

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About superpacker

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  1. Anyone have one Or seen one they recommend for a door hanger with sleighbells for Christmas decoration?
  2. For belt edges, Black and Chocolate Brown are easy - that dark and you just have to make sure you get good saturation. But when doing a medium dark edge color, like a mid brown, I've found that it can get uneven and blotchy. Any tips for an even application? I've been using an edge marker, and daubers make me nervous due to less control, but I wonder if that would work better here? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
  3. I'm working on some belts in the 9-10 oz range, various US veg tanned leathers, and after I bevel, I normally go straight to burnishing when doing small leather goods. But on these straps I feel like I'm not getting a fantastic burnish and I wonder if it's because the edge is to scraggly after beveling and needs some sanding. Is it recommended to sand after beveling and before burnishing? If so, can you recommend a sanding process?
  4. Snap Setting Issues

    I’m going to look for better snaps and focus on post length going forward. And the conical path tip from plinkercase has also been helpful. These two thinks should get me there. Thanks!
  5. Snap Setting Issues

    I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong, but when I use a hand setter, the two parts of my top snaps always end up off center from each other. Especially on thin leathers. I’ve tried small constant hammer hits, one heavy hit, same results. Is there a key to perfectly setting snaps without having a press?
  6. Fredk, great comments. So it sounds like it’s possible to condition a leather item post resolene finish? Is there any benefits? Also, if I use neats foot oil after dye (not beeswax), to condition and even dye spreading, then use resolene on top, will that still allow for a conditioner to go on top? Say something like Skidmores which is a beeswax based with a lotion consistency?
  7. that’s good to hear because I’ve thought of trying a layer of waxed based conditioner before laying down an acrylic finisher but wasn’t sure how well it would adhere
  8. Good point. Doesn’t appear that I can edit the poll now. Bummer. Thgouhts are still welcome!
  9. Been reading anything I can get my hands on about the dyeing process, and working on improving my own dyeing abilities, but the finishing step (pun intended), has me curious. There seems to be two clear camps - acrylic versus non-acrylic. The acrylic camp says that crocking and dye rub off is just a fact - it will happen, so an acrylic finish is necessary as most non-acrylic finishes are only partial waterproof. So if the item will see any moisture, e.g., holsters and tack, a permanent moisture barrier is needed, and that means acrylic, plain and simple. The non-acrylic camp asserts that dyes today are much more color fast, so only a temporary or wax-based finish is needed, and acrylic finishes either ruin the look and feel of the leather up front, or will eventually crack and ruin the leather later by taking some of the top layer with it. I know this is certainly a "to each his own" thing, but I'd love to hear thoughts and opinions and experiences. If anything as a repository of anecdotes for those new to dying.
  10. Do any other oils or conditioners have the same effect? E.g. min oil or carnuba cream?
  11. Alpha, thanks for the response. I was curious if that might be the case. I've included a picture and would love to hear any comments you have. I was hoping some type of conditioner would sort of move the dye around a little.
  12. My first time working with dyed leather - a natural veg tan horse strap dyed to dark brown. A wool dauber was used, and while pretty well covered, once dyed I noticed that there are streaks and patches that are lighter or medium in color than the dark brown. Should I either: 1) do a second full coat? 2) Go back with a dauber over the lighter areas? 3) just give a good rub and buff with a cream conditioner which will redistribute/darken the piece? For reference, wouldn't mind subtle highlights and lowlights in the color, but don't want it blotchy. One thing I wasn't certain about is whether if I leave it as is if a good cream with redistributes the dye to give the subtle high lights and low lights, or whether more dye should be added.
  13. Conditioner or Finisher First?

    Sorry, I misspoke in my post - After dyeing, I plan to add an initial softer/conditioner (e.g. carnauba or Skidmore's leather cream), an acrylic finish, and waterproof (blend of neats foot and beeswax) but not sure which order to use. Thanks!
  14. Conditioner or Finisher First?

    I have a natural belt strap that has since been dyed to the desired dark brown. My next steps are to add conditioner (a blend of carnauba and beeswax) and a finish (resolene or tan kote) - the only thing is I'm sure which goes first, do you condition then finish, or finish then condition? Thanks!
  15. Setting Stainless Snaps

    I've read some mention that a special setter is needed to set stainless snaps. Is that true, or just an attempt to have you buy another snap setting tool? Or can I use the normal Line 20 tool I already have for standard brass/base metal snaps? If not, can a press be used? Thanks!