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About superpacker

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  1. Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    No. I know sew is the strongest, but I like to give the option to switch out Buckles so I use screws
  2. Belts - Two Rivets or One?

    Good clarification. I was thinking about center bar Buckles that don’t need a keeper For those I’ve seen one used. But I use two. On heel bars I’ve seen 2 used.
  3. Obviously on a 1" belt or narrower, a single rivet or screw will suffice, but on wider belts 1.25 - 1.5" it seems to me that you'd want to use two rivets/screws, and the first really well-made belt I ever got (and the belt that got me into leathercraft) has 2. But I've seen a lot this wide only use 1. Any method or madness behind these two options? I'd be curious to hear what people say.
  4. Does anyone else do this? I don't have a rounded edge beveler. Just a #2 and#3 flat so far. So when doing belts in the 10 oz range (+ or -) I do one pass on each side, to make a clean 45 degree angle, on either then repeat by knocking down the new edges that were created by the first pass, and so on, working my way towards the middle. Seems to get me a nice round edge with no sharp angles. but haven't seen any online videos of anyone else doing this. So wasn't sure if I was missing something. I think I've read of some people just doing one pass and rounding the edge with coarse grit sanding.
  5. I understand that when used as a finish on hair/grain side of leather that Resolene should be diluted to about 50/50. HOWEVER, I always like to treat/seal the backs of belts to create a strong moisture barrier, especially for belts that will be used in workwear/outdoors settings. In that instance, is there any benefit/determent to used undiluted resolene on the back / flesh side? Or should this too be diluted?
  6. Anyone have one Or seen one they recommend for a door hanger with sleighbells for Christmas decoration?
  7. For belt edges, Black and Chocolate Brown are easy - that dark and you just have to make sure you get good saturation. But when doing a medium dark edge color, like a mid brown, I've found that it can get uneven and blotchy. Any tips for an even application? I've been using an edge marker, and daubers make me nervous due to less control, but I wonder if that would work better here? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
  8. I'm working on some belts in the 9-10 oz range, various US veg tanned leathers, and after I bevel, I normally go straight to burnishing when doing small leather goods. But on these straps I feel like I'm not getting a fantastic burnish and I wonder if it's because the edge is to scraggly after beveling and needs some sanding. Is it recommended to sand after beveling and before burnishing? If so, can you recommend a sanding process?
  9. Snap Setting Issues

    I’m going to look for better snaps and focus on post length going forward. And the conical path tip from plinkercase has also been helpful. These two thinks should get me there. Thanks!
  10. Snap Setting Issues

    I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong, but when I use a hand setter, the two parts of my top snaps always end up off center from each other. Especially on thin leathers. I’ve tried small constant hammer hits, one heavy hit, same results. Is there a key to perfectly setting snaps without having a press?
  11. Fredk, great comments. So it sounds like it’s possible to condition a leather item post resolene finish? Is there any benefits? Also, if I use neats foot oil after dye (not beeswax), to condition and even dye spreading, then use resolene on top, will that still allow for a conditioner to go on top? Say something like Skidmores which is a beeswax based with a lotion consistency?
  12. that’s good to hear because I’ve thought of trying a layer of waxed based conditioner before laying down an acrylic finisher but wasn’t sure how well it would adhere
  13. Good point. Doesn’t appear that I can edit the poll now. Bummer. Thgouhts are still welcome!
  14. Been reading anything I can get my hands on about the dyeing process, and working on improving my own dyeing abilities, but the finishing step (pun intended), has me curious. There seems to be two clear camps - acrylic versus non-acrylic. The acrylic camp says that crocking and dye rub off is just a fact - it will happen, so an acrylic finish is necessary as most non-acrylic finishes are only partial waterproof. So if the item will see any moisture, e.g., holsters and tack, a permanent moisture barrier is needed, and that means acrylic, plain and simple. The non-acrylic camp asserts that dyes today are much more color fast, so only a temporary or wax-based finish is needed, and acrylic finishes either ruin the look and feel of the leather up front, or will eventually crack and ruin the leather later by taking some of the top layer with it. I know this is certainly a "to each his own" thing, but I'd love to hear thoughts and opinions and experiences. If anything as a repository of anecdotes for those new to dying.
  15. Do any other oils or conditioners have the same effect? E.g. min oil or carnuba cream?