zaynexpetty

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About zaynexpetty

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/17/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Utah.
  • Interests
    Leathercrafting, rockhounding, camping, photography, and hiking.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Accessories
  • Interested in learning about
    General Leathercrafting.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,734 profile views
  1. How do I clean suede?! - a hurricane Harvey casualty

    White Vinegar is a safe way of killing mold. Use it after using the a brush to remove most of the residue, Id recommend the fiebings set with the soap. Afterward, spot treat the moldy areas with white vinegar, dab and then rub gently, wait for it to dry, then brush the areas with the suede brush. Vinegar is also effective at removing odors. If you still have a slight vinegar smell afterwards I think just using a dusting of baking soda should help neutralize it. Not sure if it would have any ill effects on the suede. I'd test it out on a scrap piece if you have one.
  2. How do I clean suede?! - a hurricane Harvey casualty

    Fiebings makes a brush and bar combo that helps clean suede and nubuck without the use of liquid.
  3. Hello all, I'm making my second batch of vinegaroon and I can't remember if I used Apple Cider Vinegar or White Vinegar the first time around. I also don't remember what size of bottle I got, and the ratio of wool to vinegar. I bought a gallon of apple cider vinegar. Will this work? Would white vinegar work better? How many pads of steel wool for 1 gallon? Thanks again, Zayne
  4. Burnishing thin natural leather?

    Is tokonole as wet as gum trag? or is it more of a paste?
  5. Burnishing thin natural leather?

    oh, yes. I know 4/5 oz is not very thin haha. Its just the thinnest leather I work with. Im finding that with natural, un-dyed leather, it is best to lightly and VERY carefully wet the edge, wait until it has dried up some a little, burnish it with a rotary burnisher, apply slightly soft beeswax to the edge carefully, burnish again with rotary burnisher. I'm still having an issue with the edge rolling over a little bit on the flesh side, but its not that big of a deal. Sometimes I bevel the inside edge again after burnishing if its curled over too much. I generally don't have a problem with dyed leather (other than applying beeswax in cold weather). My process for burnishing dyed leather goes as such: sand edge with medium grit (sometimes i will use a higher grit if i feel its too fuzzy on the edge, but i generally use grade A hermann oak with doesn't really have that problem so much wet edge with mixture of 50/50 water and liquid saddle soap VERY carefully with wool dauber wait until edge has dried up a little burnish with rotary burnisher (i have the hole master tip - drill burnisher from pro edge burnishers) rub on beeswax carefully and thoroughly burnish again with rotary burnisher rub edge vigorously with scrap canvas piece to smooth over and get rid of the white residue from the beeswax sometimes i will reapply beeswax a second time if i feel i didn't get good coverage.
  6. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  7. Solid Brass Hardware Supplier

    I've been ordering through buckle guy for a couple years, great company, and I love that they don't have minimums. Just looking for similar style/quality with a wider variety. Sounds like I'm going to have to save up and order wholesale. In that case, what are some good wholesale suppliers that have similar quality/style?
  8. Solid Brass Hardware Supplier

    I am a huge fan of buckle guy, but I am looking for some more suppliers that offer similar quality/style without minimums. I am specifically looking for some sleek/minimal looking solid brass center bar buckles. It would also need to be a situation where I could continue to buy stock in the future, so I don't think anything on eBay or amazon would be a good choice (unless you know more than I do). Ive checked out buckleguy, OTB, leatherguy, leathersmith, weaver, zack white, tandy, springfield, brettuns... Maybe overseas? I don't know. Thanks! Zayne
  9. Wickett & Craig vs. Hermann Oak comparison!

    I didn't take top side photos because my concern wasn't about the top side. Also, I stated that I liked the top side of the swatch they sent me, so that is kind of irrelevant. Yes, I realize it was not a fair comparison (as the other two commenters already pointed out), because the swatch they sent me was most likely not split, whereas the Hermann Oak piece was.
  10. Wickett & Craig vs. Hermann Oak comparison!

    Ahhh, okay. I still have a lot to learn about the different cuts and their attributes. I pretty much have just been ordering the highest quality sides in whatever oz I need and hope for the best.
  11. Wickett & Craig vs. Hermann Oak comparison!

    I do a lot of accessories like belts and wallets, so I like the flesh side to be as tidy as possible without much work (or any preferably). Thank you for the knowledge! I guess I didn't take into consideration that the swatches were most likely not split. Great point. I did get a response from the sales manager stating that the tooling swatch I received (i sent him a picture) might have been cut from the belly, but wouldn't it be a lot thinner (not 8-10 oz) if it was?
  12. Wickett & Craig vs. Hermann Oak comparison!

    Well, thats good news! I don't think it was split, because it seems to be some of their "8-10 oz" which they then will split down for you. The HO piece I have there is 4/5 oz so I'm assuming it was split, but it was just in my scraps and it might have been from a less than A grade quality part of the side I purchased. Still, I liked it better than the swatch WC sent.
  13. Hello, So, I've been wanting to SEE a good comparison between Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, there is a lot of people somewhat DESCRIBING the differences (or lack thereof), but I have not found anyone having actually documented it with photos/video. So, I received some swatches from W&C the other day, and decided I'd upload some pictures for reference. I have been only using Grade A Hermann Oak (yes, true Grade A). I was excited to hear that Wickett & Craig's tooling leather is lighter in color, and that they have no minimums straight from the tannery! I have to say, though; I am a little concerned with the flesh side quality of the swatch I received. The big thing I've taken away from HO's Grade A tooling leather is that the flesh side is always very tight and the fibers seem to be very short and consistent across the back. I was hoping that would be the case for Wickett & Craig's top grade leather, but the quality isn't quite the same for the flesh side. The flesh side of the W&C tooling swatch seems to be looser, the fibers seem to be a bit longer and inconsistent. Not a HUGE difference, but a difference, nonetheless. Now, I wrote the sales manager regarding the quality, assuming that the swatches that they used were just from scraps and aren't of their "Standard" or "Top grade" quality. The response I received was this: "The flesh will not be a problem Zayne. I'm sure it is just where they clicked the swatch?" Im not exactly sure that means, but I'm assuming it has something to do with them cutting out the swatch with a press, and it just doesn't seem like thats what would have caused the flesh side to be the way that it is. Anyway, have a look at the photos I uploaded. Again, I don't know for sure if the tooling swatch W&C sent me is factually top grade, but the sales manager didn't say that it was or wasn't when I asked him, hence the response. So, I'm assuming that the swatch I was sent IS their top grade, unless one of you can prove me wrong! In one of the pictures, I included the flesh side of the "Oak Skirting" swatch I was sent with all the other swatches from W&C. The flesh side of this one really scares me. It reminds me of the first cheap side of leather I purchased from Tandy. I'm really hoping this isn't W&C's "Standard" quality. Please prove me wrong! P.S.- I am in no way trying to throw shade at Wickett & Craig, I actually do prefer the lighter color of their tooling leather compared to Hermann Oaks. I'm really just looking to provide some information and hopefully gain some insight in return.
  14. Hermann Oak backs supplier?

    Awesome, can't wait to check out the swatches when I receive them. Thanks for the input!
  15. Hermann Oak backs supplier?

    I contacted W&C to see about getting a couple of swatches sent to me. So far it feels like I'll be ordering a back from them. I do actually like the idea of the W&C being lighter in color, I prefer my natural undyed/finished products to be lighter in color. I have noticed HO to be a little darker than I'd like. I don't do any tooling or anything, but I guess the softer top would help with cutting out my designs. Thanks for the input!