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About byggyns

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  1. Trouble with setting copper rivets

    Once you punch down the washer, use some side cutters to trim the excess post. That should leave enough of a burr on the post to hold the washer in place. Then use the ball side of a ball peen hammer to peen the post around on to the washer and lock it all together. You need a stable base to peen them on. I use the steel rivet setter plate (with the little hollows for the rivet heads and caps for snaps) on top of an end-grain cutting board. Now that I have a bench vise with a decent size anvil, I may start using that as my base. I'll also agree that the hole in the washer may be a little too large. It should be a struggle to get it to go all the way down. Who did you source your rivets & washers from?
  2. Finishing A Veg Tan Belt

    Tandy's professional water stain is better than the regular Eco-Flo dye. I've used it in dark and light colors (not black yet) with the top coat designed for it. I also used resolene over the pro water stain, and it had some issues cracking after drying, but didn't have any color draw off. I'm sorry I can't give you help specific to the eco-flo dye, but you should be able to get the Pro Water Stain even in Cali.

    journal covers (including small field notes sized covers; look up the Midori Travelers Notebook), pen slips, bookmarks small draw string pouches (for the lighter weight stuff) Luggage tags, ID badge holders Wrapping tool handles (I like to do that to some of my larger punches for more grip) You can also make a wrap for just below the heads of axes & hammers for those missed hits that like to beat up the wooden handles.
  4. Reclaimed Leather Pieced Together

    If it were me, I would do the center of the front, back, and flap on the bag with the ball panels arranged vertically next to each other. then use more panels and trim them to fit the gaps between the whole panels. That way you have the full panels as a focus. Maybe mix and match and use the panels with the logos & lacing as your central focus and the plain panels as the fill ins. A layout like this, with the red ovals as the full panels. I know the shape of the panels is not quite an oval, but it should fit a little like this.
  5. Oil or not?

    Boriqua, I haven't had any issues with NFO on gun steel either blued or parked, carbon steel knives, or various stainless knives and stainless guns. All of my experience with it was with veg tan. I won't keep any steel stored in chrome tanned as I had a stainless blade damaged keeping it in chrome tan, but that sheath wasn't oiled with NFO.
  6. Shoulder Gun holster

    Having not made one, I can't give you a measurement. However, if you want an easy way to lay it out, use 3/4" poly straps like are used on backpacks. It's less than $0.25 a foot at my local hardware store, and makes laying out strap goods easy since I can just fold it over and safety pin it in place. It cuts easily with a knife or scissors & ends can be sealed with a lighter.
  7. Belt Holes: Oval, Tear Drop, Round

    The thicker the leather is, the more you want the holes to be oval shaped. If you have thick leather, tight fitting round holes will cause the tongue on the buckle to want to stick out or force the belt material to bend too sharply. A lightly scribed line will help your holes to stay straight; line up the tips of the oval with the line. You can also make a template out of thin plastic cutting mat or bag stiffener and clamp that to the belt before punching to keep those holes straight.
  8. Removing oil stain on tooled veg tan

    kitty litter and oil dry are both fuller's earth (the older traditional products, at least). As mentioned above, get some fuller's earth with the fewest number of additives possible. The least expensive oil dry at most auto parts stores is almost 100% fullers earth.
  9. I have an end grain bamboo cutting board, which works well. the end grain acts like the stump/slab,. I use the side with the channel for punching and use the flat side for cutting. The one I have came with rubber feet on one side, but I pulled those off. It's similar to this one:
  10. With the "Thunderer" (m1877) being double action, I'm fairly sure that there are some dimensional differences from the classic SAA (m1873). I know that the "Double Action Army" (m1878) was even larger than the m1877.
  11. Help Applying Saddle Stitching to Tool Bag Design

    I'll second the suggestion of adding an awl to your stitching. I use the diamond chisels for laying out my stitching on holsters, but when I stitch I have an awl and use it for each stitch. When you are punching through 2-4 layers of 7-9 oz veg tan (sometimes even more), you need the extra help. I'll also say to go with smaller needles. I use a #2 John James for 1 mm thread. When I sharpen my awl, I do it the way that Stohlman lays out in his books. Just sharpen the front edges, leave the shoulders blunt. After I push it through, I give a little twist to temporarily open the hole (which is why the shoulders have to be blunt, or it would cut), then when the stitch line is finished, a little hammering helps to close it back up. Make sure you match your awl blade size to your hole/thread size. If you go too big, you end up with more hole than you need (and more chance for the holes to tear).
  12. Here is the pattern for the old leather military sling:
  13. I have tried a mix of NF oil and beeswax, and I like it. I started out with a 1:1 mix, but I like a little more oil to make application easier. I have heard of some people adding carnauba wax to increase hardness & shine in the final coat. For heavy moisture exposure, I'd probably use resolene. I have used resolene on a 2 layer stitched gun belt, and haven't had any cracking, flaking, or obvious failure of the finish.
  14. There are several options. You could go with coats of mop & glow or Resolene, which are acrylic coatings. Or, you could go with a heavy wax/oil treatment like a dubbin or carnauba creme. Some people make their own surface treatment with neatsfoot oil, beeswax, and other waxes/oils. Any of the oil treatments will darken the leather, so you'll want to try it out on scraps before using on a finished project.
  15. Real quick question about a stencil

    My thought is that after you use the craftaid, you go back over the letters with a stylus, modeling spoon or some other hand embossing tool.