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About byggyns

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  1. Removing oil stain on tooled veg tan

    kitty litter and oil dry are both fuller's earth (the older traditional products, at least). As mentioned above, get some fuller's earth with the fewest number of additives possible. The least expensive oil dry at most auto parts stores is almost 100% fullers earth.
  2. I have an end grain bamboo cutting board, which works well. the end grain acts like the stump/slab,. I use the side with the channel for punching and use the flat side for cutting. The one I have came with rubber feet on one side, but I pulled those off. It's similar to this one:
  3. With the "Thunderer" (m1877) being double action, I'm fairly sure that there are some dimensional differences from the classic SAA (m1873). I know that the "Double Action Army" (m1878) was even larger than the m1877.
  4. Help Applying Saddle Stitching to Tool Bag Design

    I'll second the suggestion of adding an awl to your stitching. I use the diamond chisels for laying out my stitching on holsters, but when I stitch I have an awl and use it for each stitch. When you are punching through 2-4 layers of 7-9 oz veg tan (sometimes even more), you need the extra help. I'll also say to go with smaller needles. I use a #2 John James for 1 mm thread. When I sharpen my awl, I do it the way that Stohlman lays out in his books. Just sharpen the front edges, leave the shoulders blunt. After I push it through, I give a little twist to temporarily open the hole (which is why the shoulders have to be blunt, or it would cut), then when the stitch line is finished, a little hammering helps to close it back up. Make sure you match your awl blade size to your hole/thread size. If you go too big, you end up with more hole than you need (and more chance for the holes to tear).
  5. Here is the pattern for the old leather military sling:
  6. I have tried a mix of NF oil and beeswax, and I like it. I started out with a 1:1 mix, but I like a little more oil to make application easier. I have heard of some people adding carnauba wax to increase hardness & shine in the final coat. For heavy moisture exposure, I'd probably use resolene. I have used resolene on a 2 layer stitched gun belt, and haven't had any cracking, flaking, or obvious failure of the finish.
  7. There are several options. You could go with coats of mop & glow or Resolene, which are acrylic coatings. Or, you could go with a heavy wax/oil treatment like a dubbin or carnauba creme. Some people make their own surface treatment with neatsfoot oil, beeswax, and other waxes/oils. Any of the oil treatments will darken the leather, so you'll want to try it out on scraps before using on a finished project.
  8. Real quick question about a stencil

    My thought is that after you use the craftaid, you go back over the letters with a stylus, modeling spoon or some other hand embossing tool.
  9. The S&W number codes are sometimes difficult to decipher, but the revolvers are normally easier. The first (of 3 digit codes) are normally metal type. a 3 is normally Scandium frame, a 6 is Stainless or silver colored alloy, a 5 is blued steel or a black colored alloy. That's just the most common for current production revolvers. S&W is not always consistent with the coding. Of course, they have made different types of the model 27, the new ones are 8 shot in .357 mag, but older ones were 6 shot. As was pointed out, there is the 686 - with 6 rounds, or the 686 plus - with 7 Then you have the different frame sizes J, N, K, L, X, and several other lower production frame sizes. It can get really confusing without knowing the year, model, caliber, and barrel length. And, then you have to make sure that the blue gun you have will match what you need. I've just started to get into S&W wheel guns, and I have so much more to learn.
  10. Need help with an idea

    Neoprene is available in multiple thicknesses from like 1/8" to over 1 inch (but I would not go close to that thick) You can also do a dense foam from the craft store or upholstery shop.
  11. Desert eagle

    I like the final result, good job.
  12. You can get both chrome & veg tan suede. The veg tan is sometimes called a "split" in those cases. I have had a stainless steel knife - Pakistani - that was in a chrome tanned sheath (probably also Pakistani) in the trunk of my car in FL. After less than a year, the sheath had reacted with the stainless steel and caused corrosion. This is an unknown "stainless" alloy from Pakistan, so I can't confirm the metallurgy, but that is my experience with chrome tan and steel. My general take is that if you intend to store metal in it for extended periods, don't use chrome tan. If it's temporary transport, it should be OK unless there is a large amount of moisture involved.
  13. Desert eagle

    Yeah, that would not be the truck gun I would choose, but he gets to do what he wants with his stuff. Good luck trying to find a pattern and/or a blue gun. I haven't seen any before, but I haven't been looking.
  14. Beginner question - does this exist?

    There are certainly makers who will make these types of dies for you. I used to frequent an Amish leather shop when I needed to buy belts. They had a single die for the holes on the buckle end and one for the billet end. Theirs were made to be struck with a hammer. Their steps were really easy: cut strip from side, cut to length, use end punches, bevel, edge coat, use the punches for the holes, set snaps in the buckle end, add keeper and buckle, and that was it They primarily use latigo, so no finishing of the belt was required. I am wearing one of their belts today, and i think I bought it 13 years ago.
  15. Desert eagle

    There are multiple guides for making you own pattern that could help you make your own. With a shooter like that, I doubt he carries or uses it often, so you could ask to borrow it. It should take you an hour or so to make a pattern if you've never done one (maybe longer since that gun has some odd shapes). The key part of patterning is figuring our where to stitch based on your pattern layout (pancake or fold over). After you work out the stitch lines, everything else is added on and doesn't affect the stitch lines by a lot.