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  1. I usually use wooden moulds for forming leather so don't have any experience of printed ones. if you are concerned about strength why not add a top to the upper part. Or make them stackable and add the top part to the base of the second one to sit on top. I hope that makes sense the first base will be flat the second one will have the top of the first as part of its base. I used a similar style of handcuffs during my service the press stud fastener had a longer tab after the stud to make it quick release, generally when you need handcuffs you need them quickly.
  2. Electric Tooling

    I have some disability in my right hand/arm I have had a standard arbour press adapted with holes to allow pricking irons and stamping tools to be inserted and held with grub screws. Not quite what the op had in mind but it might help others with similar issues.
  3. Edge Creasing Iron

    I wanted to thread the end of the inner bar so I could make as many ends as I want, Unfortunately my cheap set of dies does not have any adjustment it has a tapered start but the inner bar is quite hard. So in the end I gave up and made it a push fit. In the picture you can see the failed version and the push fit attached piece. 20170807_111831[1] by my0771, on Flickr This is a combination end piece it has a flat side for smoothing two edges for making lines and a curved surface for edges. 20170808_073046[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170808_073510[1] by my0771, on Flickr I still need to practice with heated edges everything was done on the lowest 6 volt setting.
  4. Edge Creasing Iron

    I did train as a metal worker but that was a long time ago I don't have the tools other than basic hand tools and a soldering iron. All of the brass work was done with a jewellers hand saw (like a mini hack saw) and a set of files. 20170804_112631[1] by my0771, on Flickr I ordered two new end pieces one with a 4 mm ball point and one with a 3mm point. as you can see I have shaped three pieces of brass a small and a way too large and hopefully one that is just right. my original plan is to cut a slot in the 4 mm end piece slotting the brass piece in there with a tight fit and drilling through and either using a very small nut and bolt or using brass rod to rivet it in place. For the solid brass end I had planned to thread and then tap a hole in the brass not too sure about this as I don't have any taps or dies and I would like others to be able to follow should they wish. I am going to look at heat resistant adhesives for metal Costs so far two points in postage £15.76 brass £3.50 labour two hours.. I have eased the coiled wire back a little on the 3 mm and 4 mm points to expose more of the round inner bar to allow fitting.
  5. Edge Creasing Iron

    I agree it is interesting the heads supplied for the Janik system are quite small I bought a pointed one and a roundish one which is pictured above I filed it flat and it smoothed leather on the 6 volt setting it burned the leather on all other settings. My next plan is to buy more heads and make replacement ends from brass and have them welded in place by the way the Janikl heads are £6 each so I am happy to buy some and mess around with them. These are my first attempts at replacements although looking at the picture I think this is too large I need them to be smaller that the Regad units as the janik has a little less power. 20170730_222644[1] by my0771, on Flickr
  6. Edge Creasing Iron

    I did not see your post before I posted in leather work conversation. There is an option in the UK from the Turners retreat under the name "Janik" I read an older post about people using the Janik handles with a model train transformer with some success when I ordered the Janik unit this is what came. 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr As you can see from the second picture there is no mention of the Janik name made in France by REGAD it does work at a slightly lower temperature than the actual Regad units.
  7. Like many people I have been watching videos of professional leather workers using the Fileteuse by Regad electric leather creasing machines. I thought about saving for the real deal but that may have taken some time I have read older posts about the Janik item offered by More within my price range so I sent them an email asking if it was suitable for leatherwork as well as wood burning. They replied promptly but could not offer any advice about its suitability I ordered one and this is what arrived 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr Please note it does not say Janik anywhere however it does say "REGAD" the tips ate quite small but they are only £5 each I have filed this one flat to make it more suitable for edges. I am going to speak to a local engineer about adding some brass that I can shape. Others have mentioned that these end units are infract inter changeable with the regard units This is my first attempt at forming an edge using it clearly more practice required. 20170727_204630[1] by my0771, on Flickr On the technical side the Fileteuse has more power up to 20 volts the Janik unit only goes to 12 volts anything more than 8 volts burns the leather I suspect the larger end pieces of the Fileteuse require a higher voltage to heat them.
  8. Automotive Door Panel Recovery

    I think this video might help you leather stretches more than you think.
  9. Making watch straps is not as easy as it looks I have posted a video below that may help you to see how a watch strap is made. Good luck with your research
  10. Linen thread in UK

    I have bought from Hilke she is indeed a good seller. With regard to Lin Cable if you want a couple of reels then it is worth contacting Mando in Paris they sell at wholesale prices to ordinary leatherworkers without a minimum purchase. I bought from them recently and paid under 15 euro for 332 they have a web site but you have to email for prices. but be aware they only accept bank transfer for payments and they also charge for delivery.
  11. Edge slickers

    Thanks Mattsbagger I guess having worked with wood previously it is hard to break the habit of lightly sanding between coats I have tried to take a picture of the finished edges but it is quite difficult anyway here is the best picture. I did not want to use my new slickers on wet dye but I did and it worked out ok. 20170701_092222[1] by my0771, on Flickr Thanks Michael
  12. Edge slickers

    I thought I would share my first use of my new slicker on a project. I moistened the edge and made three or four passes with the slicker as the edge is going to be dyed I wont do any more in fact I will lightly sand it to allow the dye to penetrate the leather. 20170630_103610[1] by my0771, on Flickr
  13. Edge slickers

    Captquirk Yes as Bikermutt07 said it is Oak I was in the same position until I came across these guys here is one of my earlier efforts in walnut the length is about right but it was still too thin for my hand. 20170627_141207[1] by my0771, on Flickr Thanks Mattsbagger I thought Nigel had stopped doing them as they don't seem to be on his website anymore ? I had them made for my needs one has round grooves the other two have flat. As long as they slick the edges that is good enough for me.
  14. Edge slickers

    One of our spaniels took a liking to my edge slicker, I had always thought it was a little on the small side especially as I have some restricted movement in my right hand. Anyway I decided to make my own by chance I was in my local Axminster tool store and asked the assistant if he knew of a local wood turner who might be able to make one for me. He told me that they have a demonstration day on Tuesdays and they would turn one for me FOC yes free. I ordered some oak from a timber merchant and worked out that the best thickness for my hand was 28 mm looking at the items I have made I decided to have multiple grooves of varying thicknesses. I had to buy a 1.8 m piece of timber and on arrival spoke to the man doing the demonstration he basically offered to make me as many as I wanted. I asked him to make three using one third of the wood I gave him the rest. Picture one shows what is left of the original with the larger replacement the inner part is rounded to give well rounded edges 20170621_105856[1] by my0771, on Flickr Picture two is the same style but with flat bottoms for square edges it also has an extra groove which was an error but not the end of the world. 20170621_105837[1] by my0771, on Flickr The final example has much less of a taper at the end to enable me to grip it with my damaged hand 20170621_105812[1] by my0771, on Flickr I would have been happy to pay someone to make them for me as they are so easy to use if anyone is interested they are 200 mm long and 28mm in diameter I chose grooves that suited the sizes of leather that I use the most.
  15. Brass letter stamps

    It is a bit of both really I have also made a frame for my letter set however the edges are not very well finished and I find it difficult to get even impressions repeating initials is also difficult my sons initials are JJY. As I am sure you have found this is tricky I use a different letter for the second J then swap them to keep the spacing correct. There is a set on ebay for a reasonable price which I think will give the look that I want. I have also invested in an arbour press from Axminster tools I am going to adapt it to take pricking irons and some stamps. I do have some restriction in the movement in my right hand so I can only work for limited periods. I have just had some custom edge slickers made that are 28 mm in diameter so I can hold them.