• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MY63

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

LW Info

  • How did you find

Recent Profile Visitors

2,931 profile views
  1. I am by no means an expert however as you asked. i would not attempt to dye the whole thing black as some of the straps seem to be lined with sueded leather. I do think you could improve the look by finishing the edges with black edge kote by Fiebings it is easily available. Darker edges will change the look of the harness IMHO it is much easier than dying the whole thing. and welcome to the forum.
  2. I used a local model store unfortunately it has since closed I will most likely use this store in future as I have ordered other items from them previously. Macclesfield Model Engineers I have attached a link to their website they are very helpful and respond to email questions quickly.
  3. Thanks my customers were very happy indeed let me know if you need help with a key. Michael
  4. The leather on my bag looked good until I removed the stitching the remaining leather along the bottom turned to dust. Once I had a buyer who wanted to carry up to 20 fountain pens inked (vertical) I created a new outer cover and a folding inner section to accommodate her wishes. IMG_0584_1 by my0771, on Flickr This picture was provided by the owner 20 pen case 1 by my0771, on Flickr Having thought about it I am pretty sure the rivets were bifurcated rivets rather than peened rivets. I struggled to find the tiny rivets that held the bag edges to the metal piece so I used tiny nuts and bolts which gave an industrial look. I have a few of these small bags in my restoration queue some of which may need a leather lining I did restore a larger case which was carried in the Second world war by a USAAF Ranger. DSC_0277[1] by my0771, on Flickr I think it worked really well I wanted to dye the Kip a darker colour but the owner wanted to allow it to colour naturally. If I can be of any help please feel free to ask.
  5. I have restored such a bag in the past I used white metal rivets which I got from a model store in the UK. Those little sliders need special care I managed to release the little folded over metal tabs that secure them and even managed to get them back on unfortunately I had to remove one a second time. One of the little tabs broke off a model train supplier came to my rescue with a 1 mm diameter nut and bolt to fix it in place. IMG_0456_1 by my0771, on Flickr As you can see I had to change the leather too.
  6. I would like to order some Lin Cable thread from France if I order 12 spools there is a significant discount I cant justify that expenditure in one go. if there is anyone else who would like to order with me I am happy to share the discount. regards Michael
  7. Hi Christine I have posted a link to a member here who teaches saddle making I have not taken his course and don't know him but I have watched many of his videos and my stitching has improved. Michael
  8. I am not an expert but it looks like the front flap has been wet moulded over a cord or thong. During the forming the leather has become burnished by the tools used to mould it that is why it looks like a burnished edge. The stitching is not just to draw attention to the piping but will also secure the backing that holds the cord in place.
  9. I am sorry no one has replied I don't have any advice to offer but I have enjoyed reading your story so far and look forward to seeing how you progress.
  10. Why not combine your name and your fathers Jay Lynn sounds ok I like Jay Hoffman. My favourite would be Hoffman Lynn for a stamp you could have the capital L wrapped around the H I still miss my Dad. good luck with your new venture.
  11. I have recently upgraded from the standard clicker knife to the Vergez Blanchard L'Indispensable Flat Knife I think it is great, The grinding was a little rough I prefer my knives to have a polished edge I believe it cuts better now it has been smoothed and polished it holds its edge very well.
  12. I use Le Prevo most often as they are close to me but I also use G H leathers they are both happy to help beginners and sell one hide or skin at a time. I had a minor issue with Abbey which they corrected straight away there brass ware is excellent. Welcome to the world of leatherwork this site is full of great people who are happy to share their knowledge.
  13. I don't use holes or guide posts just plywood here are some pictures of the mould as it was made. IMG_0598_1 by my0771, on Flickr Once the shape was cut out I sanded both sides until the gap was equal to the thickness of the leather I then round over the upper edge of the inside piece and the lower edge of the outer piece. IMG_0600_1 by my0771, on Flickr This is the first pressing from the mould as you can see there are some marks on one side so I sanded a little more off that side of the outer piece IMG_0647_1 by my0771, on Flickr I thought you might like to see the finished case IMG_0915 by my0771, on Flick Thanks JLS Leather I like to keep everything simple my whole blog is the same way straight forward and to the point
  14. I am not an expert but I would have added a magnetic bag catch to the flap itself to take the weight and leave the buckles for decoration.
  15. I use marine plywood to make moulds for my cases and as others have said I round off the corners on both pieces of the mould. I cut out the shape I require and sand the edges so the gap is at least the thickness of the leather. I fix one piece usually the inside to another piece of plywood and then place the leather over that then clamp the outer piece of the mould over that. IMG_0645_1 by my0771, on Flickr Hope that helps