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  1. Italian Shoes Antique Effect

    I don't make shoes I don't have that skill set. I was recently asked to make a Fountain pen case for some really large pens inspired by a pair of English brogue shoes. This is what I came up with. 2018-04-22_09-22-19 by my0771, on Flickr I left it with a mat effect burnishing and polishing will bring it to your desired finish. I used Fiebings Antique finish which I applied with a dauber and wiped off with dry kitchen towel. If it remained dark in an area I wanted light I rubbed it with a wet towel. Air brushing dark dye over a lighter finish would give a similar effect.
  2. UK Tannery - Leather Fair 30th - 31st March

    Your Instagram is great. If you don't mind me saying your website could do with some updates especially in the sale section. I would like a brochure if you have one.
  3. Electric edge creasing

    I posted more information on this thread The Janik unit is made by Regard and I believe it will work with their end pieces as you will see from the longer post I made my own end pieces from solid brass which I drilled and tapped holes to accept the Janik end pieces which worked out at less than £10 each. I think it works well if you can shape the brass and drill and tap the holes it is quite easy to make the end pieces. I have to be honest the type of work I have been doing lately it has not been used much I have an old Dixons screw crease that I use for belts.
  4. Skiving stretchy leather

    I share your pain I also struggle with skiving. One thing I found useful was to strop both sides of my knife, I used to strop only the front of the blade after sharpening and paid very little attention to the back of my blade. Now that the back of my blade is polished by stropping it slides easily over the leather. Unfortunately I am still useless at skiving but at least I can no longer blame my knives.
  5. Hi Dunluce I have been using 532 I have four or five reels and find they all have a similar issue. It might be partly my fault in that I don't like joints so I tend to work with long pieces of thread. Mando are nice people who sell to leather workers at a reasonable price as listed above. The best way to contact them is via email I dealt with José who was most helpful. Michael
  6. Hi Geoff I have to be honest it is not my favourite thread, In use I find it coils up on itself and appears to fray and snap easily. Mando were very efficient to deal with but only accept bank transfer which costs extra. Michael
  7. I usually use wooden moulds for forming leather so don't have any experience of printed ones. if you are concerned about strength why not add a top to the upper part. Or make them stackable and add the top part to the base of the second one to sit on top. I hope that makes sense the first base will be flat the second one will have the top of the first as part of its base. I used a similar style of handcuffs during my service the press stud fastener had a longer tab after the stud to make it quick release, generally when you need handcuffs you need them quickly.
  8. Electric Tooling

    I have some disability in my right hand/arm I have had a standard arbour press adapted with holes to allow pricking irons and stamping tools to be inserted and held with grub screws. Not quite what the op had in mind but it might help others with similar issues.
  9. Edge Creasing Iron

    I wanted to thread the end of the inner bar so I could make as many ends as I want, Unfortunately my cheap set of dies does not have any adjustment it has a tapered start but the inner bar is quite hard. So in the end I gave up and made it a push fit. In the picture you can see the failed version and the push fit attached piece. 20170807_111831[1] by my0771, on Flickr This is a combination end piece it has a flat side for smoothing two edges for making lines and a curved surface for edges. 20170808_073046[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170808_073510[1] by my0771, on Flickr I still need to practice with heated edges everything was done on the lowest 6 volt setting.
  10. Edge Creasing Iron

    I did train as a metal worker but that was a long time ago I don't have the tools other than basic hand tools and a soldering iron. All of the brass work was done with a jewellers hand saw (like a mini hack saw) and a set of files. 20170804_112631[1] by my0771, on Flickr I ordered two new end pieces one with a 4 mm ball point and one with a 3mm point. as you can see I have shaped three pieces of brass a small and a way too large and hopefully one that is just right. my original plan is to cut a slot in the 4 mm end piece slotting the brass piece in there with a tight fit and drilling through and either using a very small nut and bolt or using brass rod to rivet it in place. For the solid brass end I had planned to thread and then tap a hole in the brass not too sure about this as I don't have any taps or dies and I would like others to be able to follow should they wish. I am going to look at heat resistant adhesives for metal Costs so far two points in postage £15.76 brass £3.50 labour two hours.. I have eased the coiled wire back a little on the 3 mm and 4 mm points to expose more of the round inner bar to allow fitting.
  11. Edge Creasing Iron

    I agree it is interesting the heads supplied for the Janik system are quite small I bought a pointed one and a roundish one which is pictured above I filed it flat and it smoothed leather on the 6 volt setting it burned the leather on all other settings. My next plan is to buy more heads and make replacement ends from brass and have them welded in place by the way the Janikl heads are £6 each so I am happy to buy some and mess around with them. These are my first attempts at replacements although looking at the picture I think this is too large I need them to be smaller that the Regad units as the janik has a little less power. 20170730_222644[1] by my0771, on Flickr
  12. Edge Creasing Iron

    I did not see your post before I posted in leather work conversation. There is an option in the UK from the Turners retreat under the name "Janik" I read an older post about people using the Janik handles with a model train transformer with some success when I ordered the Janik unit this is what came. 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr As you can see from the second picture there is no mention of the Janik name made in France by REGAD it does work at a slightly lower temperature than the actual Regad units.
  13. Like many people I have been watching videos of professional leather workers using the Fileteuse by Regad electric leather creasing machines. I thought about saving for the real deal but that may have taken some time I have read older posts about the Janik item offered by More within my price range so I sent them an email asking if it was suitable for leatherwork as well as wood burning. They replied promptly but could not offer any advice about its suitability I ordered one and this is what arrived 20170727_200838[1] by my0771, on Flickr 20170727_200845[1] by my0771, on Flickr Please note it does not say Janik anywhere however it does say "REGAD" the tips ate quite small but they are only £5 each I have filed this one flat to make it more suitable for edges. I am going to speak to a local engineer about adding some brass that I can shape. Others have mentioned that these end units are infract inter changeable with the regard units This is my first attempt at forming an edge using it clearly more practice required. 20170727_204630[1] by my0771, on Flickr On the technical side the Fileteuse has more power up to 20 volts the Janik unit only goes to 12 volts anything more than 8 volts burns the leather I suspect the larger end pieces of the Fileteuse require a higher voltage to heat them.
  14. Automotive Door Panel Recovery

    I think this video might help you leather stretches more than you think.
  15. Making watch straps is not as easy as it looks I have posted a video below that may help you to see how a watch strap is made. Good luck with your research