kellyblues

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About kellyblues

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  • Birthday 10/29/1969

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  1. I had that same thought
  2. +1. Stick to what you set up and it's easy.
  3. Okay, I'm glad someone here is looking at that. I was gonna make myself drive to get it. That isn't a machine to let pass you by. Haven't seen one in a good number of years.
  4. Only part I can make out for sure is it was made by a company in Michigan. Any info out there?
  5. I've been a professional mechanic all of my adult life. It's taken a toll on my hands. And my elbows,kness , back and shoulders. If I have a large project to tool I do it in stages. I've gotten pretty good at covering parts with saran wrap and letting my hands rest.
  6. First thing I ever tooled was when I took a class several years ago with Jim Linnell during the IFLOG show in Indianapolis. I had made small pouches and such for years before I got into tooling. This is my very first tooling in my life.
  7. It looks like a clone of a juki ddl 5550 or similar. Needle feed but no walking foot. Also is likely to be designed for high speed stitching. That's what I'm seeing. Hopefully one of the regular SMG's on the board will chime in. I have 3-4 DDL-5550 automatics and 2 manuals. The heads look almost identical to that.
  8. All good
  9. Osborne's are sold. The craftool is still available.
  10. Totally awesome! That young lady will never forget that. And she did a really nice job too!
  11. The valley in a 4 cycle, fossil fuel, internal combustion gasoline engine is the area below the intake manifold b, between the cylinder heads and encompass the castings for both the camshaft bushings and the valve lifters. You would lose that bet sir. That is precisely where it cracked. Now, I'm not going to pull the intake manifold and the valley pan off that engine just to take pictures. I've seen external cracks near coolant passages JB'd and lasted the life there after of the vehicle. I personally wouldn't do that, but I've seen it done. I've also seen someone JB a harmonic balancer on the crankshaft of a 355 Buick engine and drove it that way for at least 10 years that I know of like that. Being a Master ASE Certified Automotive technician , home and industrial sewing machine mechanic, industrial machine mechanic for the last 20+ years I've seen many different ways to achieve the same goal. If the goal is functional, it's a one hour job. If the goal is reconditioned, it's a job of many hours. Stick weld,gas weld, bracket, JB weld, bracket and JB weld will all achieve functionality. If this was let's say a 1880 Singer model 12 with gold shell paint and a hundred small pieces of MOP inlay all done by artisans I would ( and have) weld it. Well worth every last minute it would take. Or the one of a kind Faudels parlor machine that I have for that matter. This is a machine that Singer made hundreds of thousands of if not millions. Heck I probably have 10 of them in my storage container. I don't buy them anymore unless they are dirt cheap. This machine is the 66 of the industrial machines. The cost of time to weld it and refinish the bed if needed along with the necessary adjustments would replace it twice. I've shared my opinion and some of the experience it's based on. Over and out.
  12. Osborne's are sold pending funds.
  13. +1
  14. I have a 1970 Ford 390FE that has a JB'd crack in the valley. That was done , oh..... About 17 years ago.....Still holding as strong as the day it cured. I had planned on pulling that engine when the JB gave up and weld it but it's still holding strong. And about 30-40 sewing machines that have come to me with a small pieces ( non visible) busted off here and there over the last 20 years , and various other repairs .....JB weld in this country works quite well if the proper cleaning and prep work is carried out. Yes welding is the best permanent repair. But the over all time it will take could purchase 5 more of those heads. They aren't rare by any means. Unless of course someone has that much free time. If you decide to weld it let me know and I will email you a copy of the Singer service manual for that machine. One thing I forgot to mention. If you weld it make sure you have a heat sink source on the bed of the machine. The lacquer coating known as " Japanning" can ignite . At a minimum it will likely bubble. Making a bracket is the simplest long term functional repair. Just depends on how much time you are willing to spend on it.
  15. Take it from someone who has handled a good bit of machines with very similar issues. Your best bet it to JB Weld it. I can weld cast,or braze it. You cause more problems than you are trying to fix by heating that machine up enough to braze or weld it. Oil and grease that's been in places for years will run out and the machine will be very sloppy. You will spend a stupid amount of time adjusting everything. And that thread is proprietary. I have all of the singer taps and dies though I don't loan them out. JB it or make a bracket and move on.