• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About arz

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Brasov, Romania

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets, belts, watch straps
  • Interested in learning about
  • How did you find

Recent Profile Visitors

1,205 profile views
  1. Have you checked the below companies? You can also order direct through -Adam
  2. @Matt S Thanks! I tried two things yesterday. 1. With a quick burnish with water and soap and then a two coats of bee's wax (well 50% bee's wax and 50% paraffin); 2. Quick burnish with water and soap and then a final coat of pearl glue. The pearl glue was a much better finish. I scratched the edge VERY hard with my fingernail. The pearl glue was much better, it showed very few marks. I am very happy and think that is what I will go for. I am told that pearl glue will stay flexible and will not crack like some other hard finishes. That said, I will try some tallow before I apply the final finish as that has been highly recommend to me. I don't particularly like the smell of hide glue, but it is non-toxic and my wife is less bothered by the smell than I am I also like that it goes on quick. Here is the video I found that shows the pearl glue method for anyone who may read this: -Adam
  3. @Matt S Thank you for your help! I searched for bridle edge finishing and somehow missed your post I will continue to look for some kind of tallow. I might have to order it online. I do have the Sedgwick leather conditioner that has tallow in it. It seems too soft though for filling in the voids. From what I read in your previous post, you first quickly burnish, dye, apply burnishing compound and then bee's wax. Are you using PVA glue as your burnishing solution? I find that the pearl glue gives a hard shiny finish that is easy to apply. I am not applying bee's wax after. I am still testing to see how well it will hold up. I can get the fibers to lay down great with a variety of burnishing compounds: water + saddle soap, Tokonole, etc. The leather burnishes very easily. But, unlike the Italian leather I use, the fibers about a day or so later want to come back up or a rough spot will appear. Anyway, it is nice leather to work with! -Adam
  4. Hello, I am having a small problem finishing the edges of Sedgwick English bridal. I bevel, sand, burnish with water and soap, dye, then apply a finish. For the final finish I have tried bee's wax and pearl glue (a traditional English technic). I have of course tried other methods and the order etc. I am not new to burnishing (but I am new to English bridal) and can get great looking results. What I am concerned about is wear. One thing that has been recommended to me is to use tallow fat as a filler/burnishing gum. I just can't find any at the moment Here is my problem: The edges look fantastic! Smooth, great color and shiny. seems they simply will not last. After a day or so of normal use, parts of the edge seem to dry out and then the edge get fuzzy or slightly rough again (especially around the buckle). It is not bad, it just doesn't look 100% anymore. I want my customers very happy and don't want the belt wearing after a week of use. I am currently waiting to see how my latest attempt will hold. Is this normal? Am I just being overly picky? Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong or how I can resolve this? Thank you for any help you can offer! -Adam Here are some photos of how my edges look when "new" Sorry but I do not have a photo of the problem I mentioned. I will try to get a photo when I get a chance.
  5. These are all very good ideas, that is what I like about this forum! Unfortunately at the moment I am already trying to do 10 things at once I'll save these ideas for a later day. I have searched all the online sites here in Romania for every term possible. Other than new Chinese machines, and a few expensive used ones, that is all I can find. I'll keep an eye open though, maybe I'll find something! Sometimes I wish I was living back in the US where these machines show up used all the time But I can get better leather here! -Adam
  6. Thanks! This machine does not have one. I had a few scraps wanting to come up, however most of it was taken away with the vacuum. It is a cheap part, I'll order one. -Adam
  7. Yesterday I was able to get the knife sharp and it is skiving great! I was able to skive down to about 0.4mm :). Now just to get a teflon or roller presser foot and some other small parts. The vacuum works pretty good but I need a new filter. I do want to get a new cover for the knife. It makes me nervous having that blade spinning all the time and only half covered! The machine cleaned up nice and I was able to get the covers working pretty good. Is it worth it to get a scrap ejector, or is it a waste of money? Like this one: Thanks, -Adam
  8. Welcome to the forum! -Adam
  9. @Trox Hmm the lasers might work. I used the double sided tape when I had mine. It was still a mess Changing out dies was not something I looked forward to! You are right, for what most leather worker's need the large flat presses are not needed. I only need one for my logo and then maybe for people's names etc. If money was not object then a Kwikprint, Kingsley, or Metallic Elephant from the UK would be my choice. If I could find a good deal on one in Romania I would but it! They seem to be rare here. -Adam
  10. @trox Thanks for the info. I hope to be looking for a hot foil press soon. Years ago I bought a large flat bed model (from China) when I did printing, wish I still had it! These machines can be picky, the key is the heat, amount of pressure and dwell time. What I did not like about mine was aligning the magnesium logo/type with the work on the bed. The machine just had a flat head and metal table. I used large magnet bars to align the covers I was stamping. It was a pain! When I buy one for leather work I want one with a way of aligning the work on the bed. Also a much easier way of attaching the dies. -Adam
  11. Hello and welcome to the forum! I can't think of any books at the moment. If I do I will try you let you know. I would think making straps (belts etc.) would use very similar technics. Maybe start by researching that. What I can suggest is looking at Abbey England ( They specialize in selling leather and hardware for harness and bridle. Great resource for the kind of work you want to do. You don't have to be a business with them to get an account. I have ordered from them a few times. I hope someone with bridle/harness experience can help you! -Adam Beautiful photos by the way
  12. Also, as someone once told me "I'm not paying for the leather, I'm paying for your skills." Fine quality leather for a watch strap in reality is the cheap part, it is the skill and time involved that cost... -Adam
  13. @RockyAussie Thanks for the info! You are very creative I like playing with things like this, but like most people my time is very valuable. I will keep playing with my machine and probably buy a roller from China. The 50mm roller from Italy is 178 euro! The 50mm teflon is about 80 euro. I need something because the normal foot can mark some of the leather we use. Either way, I'm learning a lot and think the skiving machine will really help us make the high-end fine wallets we want. It is really a must have tool! Have you ever used the teflon feet? How does it compare to a roller? -Adam
  14. @RockyAussie Thanks! In my machine manual and also online I have seen smaller feed wheels. For example on the Fratelli Alberti website they recommend the 34mm roller with their 34mm feed wheel. If I use it on a 50mm feed wheel the shape may not be right, that was my concern. Thanks for the link! -Adam
  15. I agree, watch straps are not easy. Much harder than it looks I am not sure if there is an advantage between the different styles, probably just personal preference. For me it depends on what the customer wants (rustic, classic, etc.) There are a few different ways to make them. I would suggest doing a YouTube search and see what others are doing. The video My63 suggested is great! I watched the below videos and they helped me understand how they are constructed. Also, look on Instagram, lots of photos of how they are made. -Adam