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About arz

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  • Location
    Brasov, Romania

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets, belts, watch straps
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  1. How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

    Very nicely done. Your skill with fabrication always amazes me! -Adam
  2. I will give the tallow a try! If it is more efficient, great -Adam
  3. I use the wood strap cutter. To me the edges are not OK, just not as smooth as I would like. Maybe if I used a plough gauge it would be better. I just can't invest in one at the moment. I agree that I probably used too much glue. I will try again. I also found some beef tallow, that will probably fill in the voids I am sanding out now. I found it at a fancy food store Thank you for all your help! -Adam
  4. Thanks for the tips! I really liked the way the hide glue looks, goes on very easy etc. However, it was very humid in Romania this Summer and the edges got sticky, and then turned just a little off-white and cracking. Probably the heat/humity reactivated the glue. Maybe I put too much on??? At this time I will just go back to using Beeswax. I have found, sanding, edging, burnishing with just water, dying, and then burnishing/sealing works pretty good. I also think I am being too picky with the edges. I can't spend an 1-2 hours doing the edges on one belt...I would never make any money Perhaps a motor burnisher and sander would speed things up... Thanks! -Adam
  5. I bought two of the Pro Edge Burnishers for a Dremel. The quality is good. I wish the grooves would have been a little deeper. They work good for small things like wallets. I don't really like them for belts, I can do it quicker by hand. I think for belts a larger one in a drill press or grinder would work much better. -Adam
  6. Tool brands

    It depends on what tool you need/want to buy. Here is what I have learned. I find I need a tool, I research what is available, then buy the very best tool in that class. I am not brand loyal, I buy what will get the job done. In most cases you pay for what you get. Normally if I try to save money it comes back to hurt me! However, I bought some $5 hole punches from leathercrafttool in Japan and they work very very well. I bought a French skiver by Barry King, very well made. I also have two english point punches from Jeremiah Watt, also superb. I really, really like the $20 Japanese knife I bought from I can get the knife so sharp it scares me! Overall the tools from Goodsjapan and leathercrafttools are good, in fact better than most Osbourne tools. Osbourne is mixed for me. The quality is OK, but not close to Barry King, Jeremiah Watt, etc. They are however one of the only companies for example to make a V groove tool. If you know how to sharpen tools I have heard their punches are OK. I have some Blanchard tools. I think they are better than Osbourne but not as good as some of the American tool makers. Their shoe hammer is nice and I like their awl. I use Wuta pricking irons and they are great for the price. I would really like a set of KS blade pricking irons and punches! I have heard they are amazing. I hope this will help! -Adam
  7. Safety beveler vs a spokeshave

    That is interesting. I have the sliver Osbourne and have mixed feelings about it. Sometimes it works great...other times I give up in frustration! Sometimes I think the angle is not right. I never thought the black Tandy might work better. I far prefer a very sharp English paring knife, skiving knife from Japan, French skiver etc. The nice thing though about the safety skiver (potato skiver) is that you pull, so for very small items etc. it works nicely. Maybe in the future I will try the black skiver and see if it works better than my silver Osbourne.... -Adam
  8. Edge Creasing Iron

    I can't think of anyone else in the US that sells them. I am located in Europe so I order from Mando. It "might" be cheaper to order through them. You would save on the taxes and they will ship worldwide. You have to be patient when ordering from them. Also, they will be on vacation for the entire month of August. -Adam
  9. Edge Creasing Iron

    Have you checked the below companies? You can also order direct through -Adam
  10. @Matt S Thanks! I tried two things yesterday. 1. With a quick burnish with water and soap and then a two coats of bee's wax (well 50% bee's wax and 50% paraffin); 2. Quick burnish with water and soap and then a final coat of pearl glue. The pearl glue was a much better finish. I scratched the edge VERY hard with my fingernail. The pearl glue was much better, it showed very few marks. I am very happy and think that is what I will go for. I am told that pearl glue will stay flexible and will not crack like some other hard finishes. That said, I will try some tallow before I apply the final finish as that has been highly recommend to me. I don't particularly like the smell of hide glue, but it is non-toxic and my wife is less bothered by the smell than I am I also like that it goes on quick. Here is the video I found that shows the pearl glue method for anyone who may read this: -Adam
  11. @Matt S Thank you for your help! I searched for bridle edge finishing and somehow missed your post I will continue to look for some kind of tallow. I might have to order it online. I do have the Sedgwick leather conditioner that has tallow in it. It seems too soft though for filling in the voids. From what I read in your previous post, you first quickly burnish, dye, apply burnishing compound and then bee's wax. Are you using PVA glue as your burnishing solution? I find that the pearl glue gives a hard shiny finish that is easy to apply. I am not applying bee's wax after. I am still testing to see how well it will hold up. I can get the fibers to lay down great with a variety of burnishing compounds: water + saddle soap, Tokonole, etc. The leather burnishes very easily. But, unlike the Italian leather I use, the fibers about a day or so later want to come back up or a rough spot will appear. Anyway, it is nice leather to work with! -Adam
  12. Hello, I am having a small problem finishing the edges of Sedgwick English bridal. I bevel, sand, burnish with water and soap, dye, then apply a finish. For the final finish I have tried bee's wax and pearl glue (a traditional English technic). I have of course tried other methods and the order etc. I am not new to burnishing (but I am new to English bridal) and can get great looking results. What I am concerned about is wear. One thing that has been recommended to me is to use tallow fat as a filler/burnishing gum. I just can't find any at the moment Here is my problem: The edges look fantastic! Smooth, great color and shiny. seems they simply will not last. After a day or so of normal use, parts of the edge seem to dry out and then the edge get fuzzy or slightly rough again (especially around the buckle). It is not bad, it just doesn't look 100% anymore. I want my customers very happy and don't want the belt wearing after a week of use. I am currently waiting to see how my latest attempt will hold. Is this normal? Am I just being overly picky? Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong or how I can resolve this? Thank you for any help you can offer! -Adam Here are some photos of how my edges look when "new" Sorry but I do not have a photo of the problem I mentioned. I will try to get a photo when I get a chance.
  13. Budget Heated Foil Press

    These are all very good ideas, that is what I like about this forum! Unfortunately at the moment I am already trying to do 10 things at once I'll save these ideas for a later day. I have searched all the online sites here in Romania for every term possible. Other than new Chinese machines, and a few expensive used ones, that is all I can find. I'll keep an eye open though, maybe I'll find something! Sometimes I wish I was living back in the US where these machines show up used all the time But I can get better leather here! -Adam
  14. Thanks! This machine does not have one. I had a few scraps wanting to come up, however most of it was taken away with the vacuum. It is a cheap part, I'll order one. -Adam
  15. Yesterday I was able to get the knife sharp and it is skiving great! I was able to skive down to about 0.4mm :). Now just to get a teflon or roller presser foot and some other small parts. The vacuum works pretty good but I need a new filter. I do want to get a new cover for the knife. It makes me nervous having that blade spinning all the time and only half covered! The machine cleaned up nice and I was able to get the covers working pretty good. Is it worth it to get a scrap ejector, or is it a waste of money? Like this one: Thanks, -Adam