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About billybopp

  • Rank Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. Sheridan tote bag

    tooling took 66 hours... the whole thing took a little over 100 hours... Yes... I'm a very slow leathercrafter! ... If slow gets you that kind of results ... then by all means go slow!! - Bill
  2. The belts are looking good @mogwild! I bought the same embosser and a bunch of rolls several years ago when Tandy was discontinuing it, and love it! I've done a number of belts, but there are other uses for it as well. The nice part about this design is that you can run larger pieces of leather through it to emboss the edge! Below are some pics of mug wraps that I've made using the embosser for edges,3D stamps, letter stamps, carving and tooling for the center part: One of the first things that I did with my embosser was to make these little boxes to keep the rolls and small bits like keys in. They are each embossed with the roller that they contain to make them easy to identify. I've attached a picture below . Rolls like the barbed wire are great for borders on skinnier items, and there is probably a plain line roller included with it to leave a nice edge crease, or even make a stitch line. It looks like you have the majority of the original Tandy rolls, so keep your eyes open for new ones (if you're interested). Bunkhouse tools has some inexpensive rolls that will work but the fit isn't perfect so you may need to use a bushing to help keep them from wobbling. They sell on eBay, as do others selling both new and used brass rolls, so give that a look. Just one more thing, be sure to keep the roller shafts dry and even oil them a bit. They are steel and will rust easily. Happy Embossing! - Bill
  3. Antique C.S. Osborne draw gauge

    Blades for these metal draw gauges are pretty much universal, and fairly inexpensive at about $10 from C.S. Osborne. I have a Civil War era Sauerbier draw gauge, and bought a CSO replacement that fits perfectly. It will need some sharpening, and I suggest rounding off the end of the blade a bit for safety. Alternatively, Terry Kinpschield offers a blade for $45 that will arrive razor sharp. - Bill
  4. @bikermutt07 I found it, I forgot it, I lost it, and then found it again. ... Welcome to Senior Moments! ... And thanks for posting this! I was thinking the same thing. As a saddlemaker of some renown, Seidel probably has need of a tool like this on a daily basis, so it would make sense for him to have some bench space permanently devoted to is. For most of the rest of us, some sort of temporary setup makes more sense. I was thinking a piece of wood or plastic with the jig mounted to it then clamped to the table, but I like your idea of using a vice mounted jig even better. Sometimes, the simple ideas are the best ones ... You know, the ones that you see and then think to yourself "Why didn't I think of that?". And that is especially true when it's something as easy to make as this! I've tried different methods for this problem, with the best being a dowel to run the leather against, and holding it down with the same hand holding the tool holds it down which worked OK, but eventually got uncomfortable and let the leather ride up sometimes. I'll be making something like this for sure! - Bill
  5. Xmas came early

    Sad to hear about your friend, but I'm sure he takes comfort in knowing his tools will be used and loved. If he is survived by loved ones, a little gift of something made with those tools as @Grumpymann mentioned above would be a wonderful touch for both him and them. Bill
  6. How do I keep from cracking

    Skive it down a bit thinner and wet before bending should help. Some leathers are just difficult tho. Bill
  7. Tandy diamond awl blade a bad thing?

    Tandy 4 in 1 is garbage. - Bill
  8. Sinking cards

    I suspect that is a ribbon pocket. Check out this link... - Bill
  9. Moulds for veg bags - wood or steel?

    For a hobbyist, steel molds would be more trouble than they are worth. Hard to make, and easy to rust without proper care. Rust would stain the leather. The only advantage I can think of for using steel would be that they might be able to be heated to speed the drying process a bit. I've seen people using wood, plastic, foam and just about everything else to make a mold. As long as it's somewhat sturdy and not damaged by water it should work! Whatever you use, you may want to seal the surface, such as a polyurethane varnish on wood, to protect from moisture. That should do the trick just fine! Here are a couple of videos that might help .... Making a mold for wet molding leather and making a molded bag . - Bill
  10. Cutting table top material?

    You could try HDPE from McMaster-Carr ... or from WW Grainger .. - Bill
  11. Sheridan tote bag

    Lookin' great... once again! -Bill
  12. First aid kit cover

    I love it! May you never need to use it. - Bill
  13. Simple Basketweave Belt

    Great looking belt, and brilliant insight into doing angled basketweave. Thanks so much for the detailed info for all of us! I know I'll be using your method! - Bill P.S. Do you think Santa's belt is basketweave?
  14. fingertip protectors for hand sewing

    I wrap some cloth athletic tape around my fingers at the "wear points". It's cheap, protects my fingers and provides a little extra grip. - Bill
  15. Reversing DC servo motors

    A sewing machine will not sew when turning backward. That would reverse the hook, etc and it won't pick up the thread from the needle then. - Bill