billybopp

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About billybopp

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    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. Rose Round knife! New! (To me!)

    From what I have seen, I'd expect that one to go for something like $100. In really good condition, more like $150+. @bruce johnsoncould give a better idea on value for this knife. I looked at his website, and found a bit more info there: It seems that they made these from around the end of the Civil War to around the beginning of WWI It's in decent condition without very much pitting on the blade, and most of the blade still there. It's got MANY years of useful life left! As for the handle and ferule, I think I'd leave it unless it's uncomfortable to use. The dents, dings and burn detract some from the value, but they also tell a story. We don't know exactly what that story is, but its kind of fun to look and wonder what happened. My guess would be set down too close to a burner used to heat a creaser, what's yours? BTW, it's interesting to note that the design of this knife is good enough that Terry Knipschield decided to make a copy and include it in his lineup. - Bill
  2. Rose Round knife! New! (To me!)

    Congrats! These older round knives are really great tools, whether collector or user. I've been looking for a rose, myself if I find one in good condition at a good price. Not that I need it, I have a Gomph and a CS Osborne that I love to use, but I live in the West Philadelphia neighborhood where that one was made and think it'd be kinda nifty to return one to its home! W. Rose is still around, but has moved several miles outside of Philadelphia now, and are known for their masonry tools. Unlike most of the other leather tool makers, Rose seems to have ONLY made round knives - no edgers or anything of that sort. I'm not a collector, but AFAIK they aren't super rare, and seem to be a bit more rare than CS Osbornes, Gomphs, and some others and hence take a little higher price. As you have discovered, the Rose knives are known for being considerably harder than others! So they can be a bitch to get sharp, but tend to hold that edge extremely well. I wish I could tell you more about the bevels, but again I'm not really an expert. As far as patina and collectibility is concerned, my own thoughts are remove any rust that you can get at. It's rust, not patina, and will deteriorate the steel with time. If fine steel wool won't get at it, chemicals might be the ticket, but get rid of the rust. I use paste wax on my blades to protect them. For the rest, I don't entirely agree with the trend toward "preserve the patina" and think it's really overdone. In most cases, it's corrosion and dirt to me. Take off as much "patina" as you need to make it usable if you intend it for a user. If you intend it for a collector, THEN worry about the value and leave the dirt! My Gomph came pretty clean, so I keep it that way. The Osborne was not so clean. I left the blade alone, but the handle was sticky in my hand (GROSS), so I cleaned that up. Maybe somebody that knows more about collector value will come along and give you better advice, but above is my take! Hope that helps! - Bill
  3. Please advise for wood sided leather bag

    Here are some pictures of a bag I made last year using leather and purpleheart. The leather is about 6 oz dyed yellow, with mahogany dyed straps and the wood is 3/8" purpleheart attached with brass escutcheon pins spaced about an inch apart (sadly hard to see in the pictures). I pre-drilled holes for the pins to avoid splitting the wood. The stitching went a little wonky, sadly. My woodworking tools are very limited, and had I known how stinking HARD purpleheart is, I would've chosen something else! - Bill
  4. ROFL ... I wish I had that joke in my arsenal when I used to work with drug companies, they would've loved it! And as you said, content is king! I can put up with quirks, a bit long-winded, and even awful background music as long as I learn something good! - Bill
  5. Just a 'lil coaster practice

    I wouldn't mind havin' that under a nice glass of old enough to vote Laphroaig. Looks good! - Bill
  6. Ancient Greek Armor

    I just came across this on eBay ... It looks about right, and might be helpful if you ever do similar armor again! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Hand-made-Leather-Punch-Cobbler-Saddle-Maker/302989484499?hash=item468b94a1d3:g:0dEAAOSwhfRcDGRw - Bill
  7. Antiquing is generally done with something darker than the surrounding leather. You can't get darker than black, really, so can't exactly antique that way! But, you could try using a lighter color dye or paint that will settle into impressions and wipe it off the same way you would antique. It'll highlight the tooling for sure, but may not be a look that you want!! - Bill
  8. I don't make holsters, and probably never will unless somebody asks me to make one for 'em. But still learned a thing or two that will be helpful for other items! I love to learn. Agreed about Sam's voice - and feel badly for his wife LOL. But I suppose like anything you get used to it.... There are other youtubers that I check out often and have to cringe through their voice, but the content makes it worthwhile. There are one or two others that I just can't get past. LOL. But, this does bring a question to mind @JLSleather. I know you do your own designs, and curious if you "get it right" first time every time now, or go through iterations? And if mostly first time, how many did it take you to get there? Just curious and food for thought! - Bill
  9. Caster wheels for machines

    The best casters for you really depends on your situation! There are a ton of choices all with pros and cons. Personally, I'd go with something like this from Woodcraft (and probably available elsewhere as well). They won't raise your stand at all until you are ready to move it, and the wheels won't go out of round if things aren't moved around for a long time. You just flip the wheels down when you are ready to move stuff! The only downside to that particular wheel it that they are smallish and could be a pain on carpet or uneven floors. Maybe somebody makes something similar with bigger wheels? - Bill
  10. Braided Leather Dog Leash

    It's a single LONG strip of leather with bleeder knots in three places. That video that @Mattsbagger linked should be very helpful, and I agree with him that if there is any concern about strength of the rivet, the leather will tear before a properly set copper rivet lets go. - Bill
  11. I rarely make the same thing twice. And even when I do, there are usually minor changes from the previous version, so I'm always in prototyping mode. When it comes to gussets, I cheat and just make the gusset a bit longer than needed and trim off the excess! Works every time (it's not really cheating if it works, right?) . But yeah, gussets are one item where going from concept/paper to leather is a bit weird. I have pre-punched, and it works fine but it is tedious to me. You need to count an equal number of holes in panel and gusset so that they match and I work with far too many numbers in my day job to unnecessarily do 'em in my off-time! I tend to most often do it they way that @JLSleather mentioned, mark the panel, tack the gusset in place and to at it. But as I said, I leave the gusset a little long to be sure it comes out at exactly the right length. If I were making the same item repeatedly, I'd zero in on the exact gusset length and just use that, but I don't roll that way. You are right, resources that carry you from design through completed item are scarce to none. There are design books (mostly akin to idea sketchbooks from what I have seen), and there are technique books, with very little that covers the in-between part. That's probably not a bad thing, since that in-between part is where creativity comes in. With that said, Arthur Porter on Youtube has some videos series that take you from design to completed item - Mostly fashion bags and accessories using garment leathers. Nigel Armitage has a Youtube video in which he constructs a messenger bag, and explains many of his design decisions - worth a watch. For print resources, if you poke around on Amazon and search "Handbag Design" you'll find a number of books, but I have not personally perused any of those to recommend one or another. For construction technique, I always recommend The Art of Making Leather Cases Series by Al Stohlman: There are 3 books in the series and all excellent. The specific projetcts in them are mostly outdated (Are you old enough to remember instamatic cameras with flash cubes?) but the techniques are just as sound today as ever. - Bill
  12. Lacquered Maple Butcher block for table top

    A LOT of what is being sold as butcher block isn't end grain, which is why I asked. End grain really is a fantastic cutting surface. It tends to not pull your knife off-course, is more or less self-healing, and certainly good and solid! Long grain is just not as nice (although also not terrible!) If you are trying to cut along with the grain, your knife can pretty easily be pulled off-course, and cutting across the grain leaves scars. They also tend to be thinner and lighter weight with less wood in them, and easier to make, which probably explains why the marketing folks are trying to pass them off as a true butcher block. More profit. They both need a little maintenance here and there, but more so the long grain kind. Also, with either one of them, I wouldn't worry about finish. If it came lacquered, no worries - leave it as it shouldn't hurt anything. If it is shellac'd you could have an issue with dyes or other alcohol-based stuff, and I'd remove it (alcohol softens and dissolves shellac). At some point you'll want to clean up the surface by planing, scraping, or sanding and any finish will come off: I'd just leave it off at that point. Workbenches ain't made to be pretty, although just natural wood is pretty without any finish. - Bill
  13. Lacquered Maple Butcher block for table top

    If the wood grain-end up, or long grain?
  14. Ancient Greek Armor

    Outstanding! Really impressive work. - Bill
  15. question on doing a mexican round braid

    Chief retired from leather work and sadly took his videos down. Bill