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About billybopp

  • Rank Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. Stiching thinner leather <3/4oz

    You are correct. Lately, folks have been referring to pricking irons as French or European style to help differentiate from pricking/stitching chisels that punch all the way through. It's been quite confusing for a lot of folks, particularly newbies. Maybe that terminology will help? - Bill
  2. Crackle Coating Singer 111G156, 107W1...

    Makes sense, really. A combination of marketing and, dare I say it "fashion". If you look at other machinery and equipment from the era such as WWII radio equipment, much of it had a similar finish. I suspect you'd find that right about the time this finish came to an end, around 1953 according to what Constabulary posted, you'll find that the silver and hammer finish machines started to come about -- with sewing machines and other equipment. - Bill
  3. Stiching thinner leather <3/4oz

    When you're saddle stitching and looking for that zig-zag look, there is an interplay of leather thickness, hole size and thread thickness. In a nutshell, the thread has to have enough room to cross past itself in the hole, and that's harder with thinner leather. If you're not getting what you expect, try thinner thread so that it has more room to cross. - Bill
  4. slow stitching speed

    Would you pay more for a flight from Chicago to LA if the pilot agreed to go have as fast? Yes. IF it meant that we'd actually arrive at LA and do so safely When those boys show up to plow the snow from my drive, should I pay more to the fast guy, or the guy who takes a while? Yes. If the guy that takes awhile does a good job of it when the fast guy doesn't. Does pizza cost more if it's here in 31 minutes or MORE? Yes. And I frequently do pay more and wait a bit longer when I get pizza from the local mom and pop shop. It's FAR better than the fast pizza from Domino's, and hence worth the money and the wait. The point of going very slowly when sewing is to get the precision needed to put a stitch exactly where you want it - for example at exactly the point of that English point belt end. I don't yet sew leather by machine, since I have no space for a big sewing machine. I do, however, occasionally hem pants and repair clothing using my "domestic" sewing machine. When it comes to the tricky bits and turns I frequently use just the handwheel to get things exactly as I want them. Even when sewing longer stretches, I don't go at full speed since full speed is beyond my skills to control. So, if one has the skills to sew at top speed then that's awesome. But for most folks sewing leather, I suspect that the control afforded by going VERY slow at the bottom end of the speed range more than offsets the loss of speed at the high end. - Bill
  5. As Bikermutt pointed out, the machine you need is largely dictated by the things you want to sew. But I'd suggest the first stop on your quest should be this sticky post on LWN. It will answer many questions. - Bill
  6. Curved Seam/ Hammering Out

    The closest thing I've seen to what you're trying for is in a youtube vid by cechaflo. I don't know if that will help you, but it's worth a look! - Bill
  7. As mentioned above, it's all about what works for you! I've got several poundy tools that I use, and a few that I gave up on for leather. Wooden tapered maul that was given to me: about 16oz. Liked the feel, but eventually it started splintering on leather tools, so now it's for woodworking chisels only. Rawhide mallets, also gifted to me: 12oz & 16oz. They work fine, and still see some use - but never felt as nice as the maul did. Chinesium cheapo maul from eBay: About 16oz. Not bad for $12! Still used often, but it's not tapered so still not as comfy as that wooden one. You need to hold up your arm to use it rather than rest an elbow on the work surface .. Same with most mallets. Shop Fox maul from Grizzley: 16oz & 30oz. These are tapered, rubber wrapped wooden mauls and feel really nice but the rubber is a little too bouncy for tooling leather - They're fantastic for woodworking, tho! The price was right at <$20. Dead blow mallet: 32oz. Great for those big 3D stamps where bouncing can lead to double impressions. Also great for strap end and oblong cutting punches. NO bounce on this one! About 6 months ago, I injured my shoulder so haven't done much tooling since - and what little I have done has been resting my elbow on the work surface. A tapered maul in the 14-16oz range is in the future for me, I think. I've been looking at Barry King mauls .. so ... tempted ... They all have their place and uses - it's all about figuring out what works for you! - Bill
  8. trivial trivia

    ROFL! Thanks for getting my day started with a laugh. I wonder, does perfectly normal beast really require sauce? - Bill
  9. Pricking irons comparison for Newbies

    If you're dumb, so am I, but I find them all useful in different situations, so ... Maybe not! - Bill
  10. New to Leatherworking, Automotive Upholstery

    +1 for Cechaflo! The videos are silent, but he does a great job of annotating in English and effectively showing you just what he's doing. Great stuff! - Bill
  11. Old Dr.'s saddle bags

    Those doctoring bags are awesome! Like Firewalker said - Wish they could tell their stories, and wonder when they were made! If you'd like to see a modern version, Don Gonzales posted a video on Youtube making one - this one is a saddle-horn version but goes to show there's still a need for 'em today. - Bill
  12. Something big from something little

    It's just awesome that your wife and you get to work together! The more I see the things that you can do with a 3D printer, and a skiver, and a sewing machine, and other tools the more I want them. Dang ... This is getting expensive! - Bill
  13. The first thing I'd do is figure out exactly how much space you need for the car. Then you can plan around that and put items that need to be pretty much permanently mounted in front of that - things like tooling surface, drill press, belt sander, cabinets, laser, compressor and such (like maybe a sewing machine if you have one or plan on one). You may even want to consider a smallish utility sink and water tank - useful for cleanup but also for laser cooling. You might even consider water and drain hookups if it's going to be mostly stationary. Leather storage can be overhead in racks - either open or rolled up in PVC sewer pipe. I'm not sure how the laser will cope with being mobile, but I'd mount it as near the center as car placement will allow and also put it on shock mounts to help minimize bouncing around in transit. Laser and mirror alignment are critical, so bouncing may not be a good thing! You may have to re-align things every time you move the trailer/shop. Your cutting, gluing, and spray booth/dying area don't need to be all that heavy duty - just sturdy enough. I'd consider mounting the tables to the wall with hinges and hinged front legs and some way to lock them in place up or down, so that you can simply fold them up against the wall when not needed. I'd think that your ventilation solution won't be terribly thick and can probably live behind the tables when folded, although could require that you hinge the benches a bit offset from the walls. You can probably even work out a way to make collapsible sides for the stinky stations to make a sort of paint booth. Storage for dye and glue supplies need not be terribly deep and can probably go in shallow cabinets near those stations and high enough up to not interfere with the car. You'll also want electricity, some heating and / or cooling. Most of your electrical needs would be near the front where the power tools are, but you could also run some long power strips further back for miscellaneous needs. For heating / cooling, I'd consider the sort of units that you sometimes see on top of campers. Agreed with above that natural light is best, and you might be able to put in windows or skylights, but if that's not an option choose daylight balanced lighting. Just a few thoughts - hope they're helpful - Bil
  14. Show your Shop

    I'm totally with you, Bikermutt!! I get this vision of a leather workers version of Sheldon Cooper from Big Bang Theory diving into the ball pit at Chucky Cheese ... Popping up and yelling "BAZINGA!". - Bill
  15. What is this?

    If it's all working, and I had the space, I'd certainly buy at that price! If it has a 1" shaft with 3/16 keyway, which is pretty standard for embossing rolls, they are available. The Tandy manual machine that I have is currently asking $300 + $50 shipping on ebay. Metal rolls are asking in the $100 - $120 range on ebay, but less expensive resin rolls are also available in the $30 range from seller "duckcreektraders". There are even folks that can make custom rolls on a laser cutter, although I've never checked on pricing. They are great for embossed belts, but there are other uses as well, such as the borders on these mug wraps which are a combination of embossed borders with tooled and stamped centers. :