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About billybopp

  • Rank Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. singer patcher on battleship Scharnhorst

    Oddly enough, a day or so after I saw this post, this popped up on youtube. If you look at about 14:30, you'll see a Landis sole stitcher and shortly after a garment machine, probably a Singer. Of course, being a carrier there's also a lot of great footage of Viet Nam era jets, and even a few piston powered aircraft that were still in use. (for those of us that are also aviation buffs!) I meant to post this sooner, but 12 hour workdays don't leave much time for the things we actually want to do! - Bill
  2. Wallet - slim card slots

    The card slots look to be "ribbon slots". You'll find me info about that by searching "Ribbon slots" here on LWN. - Bill
  3. Hand Stitching a Belt

    Either way can work, but there are trade-offs. Natural fibers such as linen tend to fray and pick up more color near the needles. Synthetics such as polyester also fray and pick up color, but FAR less than do natural threads. Dye pick-up and fraying tend to occur most in the last few inches near the needles, so allow a good amount of extra thread for that. Lighter colors will show dye-pick up more than darker. As @Matt Smentions above, shorter lengths are easier to work with, but you can't totally hide the splices. Longer lengths are harder to work because they can get tangled, but there's nothing to hide other than the overlap where stitches begin and end: you just have to work a little differently to prevent tangling and a bit more work pulling thread but note, as you move along you're dealing with less thread after each stitch and it becomes easier. There's pretty much no choice with natural thread than to go with shorter lengths and splice. Synthetics give you the option to go either way as find comfortable to you. My personal preference is to go with synthetic and no splices. - Bill
  4. Question re. Punches

    They all get dull eventually, it's just that the better ones keep their edge longer. They can be sharpened a number of ways from inside, outside, or both. A little sandpaper or a stone for the outside and just twirl the punch will do the trick. Inside is slightly harder, but I've had good luck using a pointy stone meant for use with a Dremel works well for me (although only by hand, as IN the Dremel would probably overheat and spoil the heat treat). I suppose a pointy stick with some sandpaper would work nicely for inside as well. I'm sure there are other ways to do this as well! Most punches are tapered, so as you remove metal from the edge, you very slightly change the diameter of the hole, but that should not make much difference until you've removed a pretty substantial amount of metal (hopefully after years of use and sharpening!) - Bill
  5. Stohlman's Book Method

    You might try an awl blade from Barry King ($30) or LeatherWranglers($25). The Leatherwranglers blade is Osborne, but will come profiled an sharpened, and might serve as a reference for your own blade profile and sharpness! A truly sharp awl blade will go through well over 1/2 of stacked leather without all that much effort. It'll also go right through the backside and into your finger almost without feeling it. :D - Bill
  6. Slicking and Burnishing

    Lol. Are you sure your name isn't really Tom Sawyer?
  7. Semper Fi My Marine

    I yelled at the folks below me and was yelled at by the folks above me quite regularly. We were always made to feel like as good as we were was never good enough. It was rare to receive praise. So just like regular corporate America job!
  8. Gold dye

    Tandy's eco-flo waterstain is a pretty decent looking metalic-ish gold color. I think it is designed to be an additive to other colors to give them gold fleck, but it has worked well as a stand-alone for me. - Bill
  9. Pictures Please? How do you store your hardware?

    I don't see a teacher's desk. I see a big ol' solid work-surface with five storage drawers. Maybe get a big ol' piece of HDPE that's a little longer than the top and there you have a good solid cutting surface for your leather - it's sometimes easier to use a slightly shorter table to cut on so that you are above your work. A nice wooden sliding till in the file drawers would help make better use of the space there - I suspect there are already file hanging rails that the till could ride on. As for storage, I use these and organize items in a grid with size going horizontally and color vertically. So, for example I have a row of Line 24 snaps with the setting dies in the first column then silver, gold, black, brass, antique brass, etc - and the same for rivets and such with the last few rows for miscellaneous small items. I also use one of these for larger items like rings, buckles, etc. The drawers have a divider in them, so I sort snap / rivet parts within the drawer too. Fortunately, I found these containers on sale and paid about half the price you see listed in the links. Currently they sit on the floor since I don't have a work room, but when I do have one they will be wall mountable which will keep them isolated from work surfaces to help keep from bouncing them around when pounding / tooling. I'll probably do the same for tools and hang them on the wall as well. What you do, though, has to suit you and the way that you work. Since we each work differently, we'll all have different solutions. Just food for thought - Bill
  10. He means a pinned topic in the sewing machine forum. Pinned topics are sometimes called sticky ( like a post-it note too).
  11. I think you're going to like the pro dye! It's FAR nicer than the Tandy water-based. 1. As most, I use gloves when dying, but OOPS happens. By far the best hand cleaner I've ever used is "Dye-Gone-II". It leaves a little bit of a smell on your hands, but removes dye pretty darn well. It also works on fabrics, at least to some extent. Whether hands or fabric, if you can get to it quickly it's easier. 2. It's thin enough to go through an airbrush just fine, but I thin it about 50/50 so that I can control it a little better .. More spray, darker color. I have used dye reducer, but mostly use 90% rubbing alcohol now and can't tell the difference. 3. I don't pre-oil. I've tried it and again couldn't tell the difference - but that could just be my technique. YMMV. I do post oil most of the time since alcohol / dye tends to dry and harden the leather a bit. Sometimes tho, that hardening works to your advantage! 4. I don't really know how long it takes to dry - that probably depends on how much dye I guess. I just let it sit overnight and that works fine. - Bill
  12. ... So THAT'S what happens to cell phone slip covers when they go to die. - Bill
  13. Barry King dot so-what

    How is the blade, tho?
  14. Sewing machine from china???

    Did you notice that the post machine has a minimum order of 10?? They are both head only - up to you so sort out a table, motor, and such. And, as stated above, don't count on any support really. None of which makes them for the faint of heart, probably even for somebody with a lot of experience much less a beginner. - Bill
  15. Slap or blackjack ..

    Is this what you're looking for? I expect lead shot might be hard to come by, but BBs would probably work as well. - Bill