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About Uwe

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Garden City, Michigan
  • Interests
    Leather, sewing machines, making things.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Refurbishing vintage sewing machines, making sewing machine accessories

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  1. Grease for 206RB

    After cleaning I usually squeeze some grease directly onto the gears before installing the gear covers again. That way I know for sure that the grease is actually ON the gears rather than just inside the box. You can always add more grease through the access holes you mentioned. Tri-Flow grease is what I use on my machines and I like it. One thing to watch out for is that if you separate the gears during cleaning or to make adjustments, make sure they go back together meshing with the same teeth. Some gear sets are matched pairs that are intended to be meshed with specific teeth on both gears. There may be a factory mark on both gears to line them up. You can also add marks yourself with a sharpy pen before separating the gears. The gears should still work even if they're meshed in a different position, but they may be noisy.
  2. There's a set screw on the bottom right that locks the post of the check spring unit in place (I was so focused on the check spring unit when I made the video a few months ago that I didn't notice that the tension discs weren't threaded)
  3. Bobbin Loading Issues

    It also looks like the incoming thread is BEHIND the two tension discs instead of BETWEEN the two tension disks. Unless the thread is between the tension disk you'll have no top thread tension at all which all but guarantees loops on the bottom.
  4. Bobbin Loading Issues

    Don't change things there. It may never be the same again. You may not yet be aware of Rule #1 of sewing machine maintenance: Never loosen a screw unless you know what it does. I'm also a little concerned that your Juki DNU-241H looks quite different in the head area from the one that Leif Labs describes in this blog post: Can you please post detailed pictures of your machine's name plate and other identifying marks? Also a few pictures that show the whole machine. Try not to have pictures backlit (strong light in the background) - it' makes it very hard to tell what's going on. Turn the machine around or shine a bright light at the front (or touch and hold the area on thor phone screen you want to be in focus and well exposed.). I know it's a pain to fuss with lighting, but it makes all the difference in the word.
  5. Thoughts on singer machines

    All three machines you listed are garment/embroidery machines in the domestic range. The 191-20C appears to be the strongest of the three. The only thing heavy duty about the Singer Heavy Duty 441 is the marketing hype and the paint color. None of them are well suited for sewing leather beyond a layer or two of very thin, soft garment weight leather. Plan for two machines, one that does your light garment work (domestic is fine here), and a second machine to do the leather work properly. Check out this thread to get an idea on the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather:
  6. My upload speeds were super slow tonight, so here's a second video I made earlier tonight about using that adjustment screw Bob mentioned to set stitch length.
  7. I had to fuss with my Singer 153-W102 quite a bit to get the stitch length adjustment to work right. My thread were broken and jagged, too. I used a Dremel grinder to clean up the threads and make them smooth again - that made a big difference on how smooth the adjustment knob turned.. I had made a video a few months ago that goes in into a little more detail of the mechanism. Hopefully it will help you get your stitch length adjustment knob too cooperate.
  8. I'd stay away from Ebay until you know what you're doing - it's a gamble under the best of circumstances. Buy from a reputable dealer or somebody you trust. Most people on Ebay do NOT know how to ship a sewing machine and thousands of machines have died in transit. In general, industrial sewing machines are designed to sew whatever you can fit under the foot. Look for unison feed (bottom+top+needle) machines with at least 10-12mm foot lift. Resist the temptation to change the question every time you get an answer. For sewing multiple layers of leather, a bottom-only feed machine will not make you happy.
  9. You may not be able to use your braided waxed thread in a sewing machine, at least not for long. You'll spend two hours cleaning the wax out of the machine every time you use it. Consider not buying from your local dealer, especially if they're all weird about even giving you a price. You're country is part of the EU and the Schengen Zone, which makes for super easy cross-border travel and purchasing. Take advantage of that. Personally, I'd plan an overnight road trip to Bayreuth in Germany (6 hours drive) and visit Sieck. Germany is place to be to get good, used original Durkopp Adler machines. Sieck has lots of nice, original machines both new and used and their prices are very good in my opinion. The Sieck website lists prices for almost everything they sell - it's a great reference. Consider the SIECK 267-373, which is their version of the Durkopp Adler 267-373 for 1.800 Euro with a nice servo motor. They also have the original Durkopp Adler 267-373 machines used for even less.
  10. Consew 206RB

    Congratulations on finding a great bargain! The simple thing to do is to get a servo motor with a small 50mm(2") pulley first and see if it is slow enough for you. If you then find you need it to be even slower or have more torque, you can always add a speed reducer pulley later on.
  11. Since your budget is limited, you'll probably get a Golden Wheel, the brand of the Chee Siang Sewing Machine company. Luckily, Chee Siang is one of the very big companies that produces high quality copies of many original designs. They make nearly everything, or so it seems. I have yet to find a famous machine design that they don't make. The Golden Wheel brand doesn't have much of a presence in the U.S. But I strongly suspect they are behind many of the aftermarket brands that are sold in North America. Check out the website at http://www.golden-wheel.cn/en/product-2 in the "Heavy Duty" section, either under Flatbed or Cylinder bed. Each of these categories have a "Unison Feed" section. There you will find all the candidates for your work. For example they have cylinder arm machines of Juki TSC-441 (CS-441) , Durkopp Adler 205 (CS-205), and Pfaff 335 (CS-335) designs. That small sample right there covers the majority of machine designs people on this forum use and recommend. On the flatbed side, check out their version of the latest Durkopp Adler 867 design, the CSU-8671 (not cheap, but it's the machine design I would buy new right now - it's bound to be a future classic.) The other flatbed unison feed machines are all designs you'll recognize from discussions on this forum. One other nice part is that Golden Wheel posts most manuals right on their website, which is how it should be. They also make and sell parts for their machines, not all aftermarket companies do. Good luck with finding a nice machine!
  12. Sold to a good home in Indiana.
  13. Yes, the motor is just a temporary test setup to check stitch speeds and take measurements. I'm building a proper table for the machine to get it ready for demo (and sale.) I'm not sure exactly what parts are involved to add reverse to a Singer Class 7, so I don't know which Singer 7 subclasses are compatible with the retrofit. I know Singer Class 7-31, 7-33, and 7-34 can have reverse, but there may be more.
  14. Some Singer Class 7 models can be retro-fitted with reverse. The lever is on the back and usually operated via foot pedal or pneumatic cylinder. With the right motor control you can even program automatic back-tack and other tricks. Adjustment screws at the top and bottom allow to balance forward and reverse stitch length. Here's a picture of my 7-31 that has the retrofit reverse lever:
  15. Bobbin Loading Issues

    I'm still putting my money on the top thread snagging somewhere below the throat plate. You don't get big loops of top thread underneath like that unless more top thread is pulled from the spool at the wrong time, leaving the take-up lever without a chance to pull the knot tight. I may sound like a broken record to some: Take the belt off the hand wheel and do a few very slow, hand-turned stitches and really look, feel, and listen for anything that is not how it should be. Knowing how things should be is often the hard part. "Smooth and without hang-ups" is a good starting point.