Uwe

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About Uwe

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Garden City, Michigan
  • Interests
    Leather, sewing machines, making things.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Refurbishing vintage sewing machines, making sewing machine accessories

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  1. One other thing to check is to make sure your top and bottom shafts are synchronized properly. The thread take-up lever needs to be in the very bottom position precisely when the thread is being wrapped around the farthest point around the hook. It's an easy visual check, just remove the hook cover plate and turn the machine slowly by hand. If the take-up lever timing is late due to incorrect timing belt position it will not provide enough slack and more top thread will be pulled from the spool as the thread gets forced around the hook. In this case the thread take-up lever will never get a chance to pull the knot tight, regardless of thread tension settings.
  2. Clone family tree

    The short answer is a general "no", I'm afraid. Here's a thread that talks about just that:
  3. That's a habit you should discontinue. It's like resting your left foot on the clutch (or the brake) while you drive - nothing good can come from it. Your foot lift thread tension release mechanism may be engaging too early or not releasing properly. The pin (no. 20) that pushes from the back of the machine against the plate behind the tension unit should have a little bit of play during normal sewing. Perhaps this mechanism is gummed up or sticky and never really lets go properly, thereby always working against the tension spring. One way to check this is to remove the pin 20 altogether for testing. To do this remove the tension unit, pull out pin 20, and the reinstall the tension unit. This will disable the foot lift activated thread tension release mechanism and lets you verify if the thread tension unit itself is working properly. If the machine sews fine without pin 20, then the problem is in your foot lift thread tension release mechanism. If you still cannot adjust thread tension properly, then it's time to carefully check how the thread gets wrapped around the hook. It may snag somewhere or your bobbin case opener may not work properly.
  4. Cobra class 18 or 20

    You really need to call the (Leather Machine co. ) Cobra folks for info and a sales pitch. There is virtually no information published on either of theses machines, no specs, no manuals, only one postage stamp size picture on their website and a price. They say they do this on purpose so that you call them. That approach must appeal to some subset of the market - it certainly doesn't work for me.
  5. Kenmore e6354 vs Singer 4452

    The Kenmore is a domestic machine and the Singer is a domestic machine pretending not to be a domestic machine. Neither of them will do what you want to do well, if at all. Save your money towards a proper industrial leather sewing machine Read the sticky note near the top of this category : Watch canvas bag master @AlexanderDyer sew a heavy canvas bag and note what types of machines he uses:
  6. Shrinking the Table

    $279 according to the Merrow.com website. Not really big bucks, but in the USA, any table over $100 is considered big bucks. I wish there were more Merrow and Kessler tables out there.
  7. Small Motor Pulley with 5/8" Bore?

    That Rex motor looks very much the Family Sew variety. Your main problem may be that these motors originate in the metric part of the universe and you're trying to match up an imperial pulley. My Family Sew motor has a 15mm shaft and I got some SM50 50mm pulleys at UniversalSewing.com a while ago that fit nicely.
  8. I'm normally a Pfaff fan, but I'm getting bad vibes from that CL ad. To me it looks like it's been driven hard by uncaring people, and then suffered a botched paint job. It ranks on my desirable-o-meter scale right up there with a once-fabulous 80's BMW that now has a body by Bondo®, a window held up with duct tape, and a spray can paint job. It may also just be a clone, not a genuine Pfaff, like Joe suggested. $600 for a serviceable genuine Pfaff is okay, but $600 for a worn-out clone is too much. It may look better in person, but normally it's the other way around. For the archive:
  9. Singer 45k1 Restoration Decals

    The problem with links to Ebay ads and their pictures is that they will disappear very soon. That link will be useless a few months from now. Only images that get uploaded directly here on LW stick around for a long time for future reference (site admins willing.) It would be great if some motivated person with an interest in vintage decals (yay Tony!) could download the pictures from the ebay ad and then upload them here.
  10. Zig Zag Machine Advice

    Yes, Ebay vendors will often do all the research for you. For LW archiving purposes, I copied the list of suitable industrial zig-zag machines from the Ebay ad below. I have a feeling that just about any of these machines can join two pieces of hair-on-hide leather: Artisan : 457 Brother : B851, B852 Consew : 175RB, 275R, 276R, 347 Juki : LZ-271, LZ-391, LZ-582, LZ-583, LZ-583, LZ-1280, LZ-1285, LZ-1286, LZ-1287, LZ-1290, LZ-2280, LZ-2282, LZ-2284, LZ-2286, LZ-2290 Mitsubishi : LZ-710, LZ-720, LZ-760, LZ-780, LZ-790 Singer : 107G, 107W, 143G, 143W, 457W, 457U Stager : DZ-S31 Toyota : AD550
  11. Zig Zag Machine Advice

    There are modern day versions of the Singer 20Uxx series (e.g. Singer 20U43 from Techsew for $800). The knee-operated zig-zag width adjustment is probably not an essential feature for patchwork rugs. Other vintage zig-zag machines might be good candidates as well, examples: Singer 107W3, Pfaff130, Pfaff 138-63, and others. These folks also appear to be using a vintage industrial zig-zag, but I can't quite tell what model that is just from the foot:
  12. Juki 1508NH Bobbin tension

    Yes, you can. See page 31 of the Juki LU-1508N user manual (Juki LU-1508N Instruction Manual.pdf) Be sure to read the rest of the manual, too.
  13. Post bed recommendations

    If you come across another machine that meets your requirements, I'd like to know about it. We live in an age where a Toyota Camry is more of a true American car than a Jeep. For "true German" machines designed and made in Germany while the company was still a German owned company, you have to go back a few decades. I have two very nice Durkopp Adler 268 post bed machines that meet that criteria. I might be willing to part with them to fund my Durkopp Adler M-Type H868 Classic piggy bank.
  14. Post bed recommendations

    The only machine in I'm aware of that meets your requirements is the Durkopp Adler M-Type H868 Classic, which is on my list of machines to own before I die. Make sure you sit down before you open that quote.
  15. Singer 45k1 Restoration Decals

    @Parfektionisto No, I didn't make the decals myself - they were part of a larger sewing parts inventory I bought last year. Sorry, I don't have a decals reference.