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About zuludog

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/25/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northwest England
  • Interests
    Backpacking, Car mechanics, Model aeroplanes, Knifemaking, Leatherwork

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife sheath making
  • Interested in learning about
    general leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. A useful website

    http://leathercoursesbritain.com I've just found this website. This company runs various leatherworking courses, and their website has some useful advice, in the blog and videos
  2. Edge Beveler Sharpening

    Search YouTube for 'sharpening an edge beveller', there are several videos. Watch the French one; even if you can't speak French the video is plain enough
  3. Cutting Questions

    There are loads of videos on YouTube about leatherwork. Watch as many as you have the stamina for to see how they do their cutting 'Making a Leather Knife Sheath' by Jacklore uses a Stanley knife 'Making a Leather Knife Sheath' by Ian Atkinson uses (admittedly briefly) a Stanley knife, a clicker knife, and a round knife Cutting inside curves is difficult, which is why one of them uses a strap end cutter, but that's not necessary, and is quite expensive A round knife is the traditional leather knife, but they're also expensive, and need practice & experience to use well Sharpen your replaceable blades, practice, learn how to use it, and take your time. If you're still not happy think about a clicker knife, Tandy sell them as Industrial knife #3595-00. Or look at videos of a kiridashi
  4. Cutting Questions

    Sandpaper - about 80 grit, that's fairly coarse But before that you can trim the edge just by running the knife almost flat along the eddge
  5. Hello from New Member

    Hello Deb, and welcome! You will find loads of advice and information here, and the answer to just about any leather related question I hadn't heard of SCA but I found it via Google. If you don't know already you might find this website interesting. It includes a guide & links to lots of re-enactment societies http://www.historic-uk.com
  6. Cutting Questions

    I've found the Husky knife via Google, it looks like a replaceable blade craft knife. In Britain we often call these Stanley knives after the best known brand. I think you call them box cutters in USA I notice it is a folding knife, which would make it bigger and probably clumsier. I suggest you get a fixed blade model such as the Stanley 199 or 199A, though there are other makes The blades are sharp, but can be improved by sharpening them yourself, because you will polish them, and reduce the shoulder of the bevel; in fact the more you sharpen them the better they seem to get You will need a fine stone; oil, diamond or water/ceramic, whatever you fancy, and a strop. Make your own from oddments of wood & leather, this will be just about the easiest piece of leatherwork you will do. Get some jeweller's rouge or proper honing/stropping compound; it's not that expensive, and a bar will last for ages. There is loads of advice about sharpening & stropping on this forum and on YouTube. In fact the key to good leatherwork is to have razor sharp knives, whether fixed or replaceable blades You could also consider other knives, like a clicker knife or a Japanese style kiridashi - search Google and YouTube. There are other types, it's a bit of trial and error really to find what suits you Whatever you get, you will need two knives - one just for leather, and a general one for opening parcels, sharpening pencils and so on; it's purpose is to make sure you use the first knife exclusively for cutting leather Mark out the pattern with a scratch awl, followed by a light cut with the knife. Concentrate on getting the shape correct, not on a seriously deep cut. Once the shape or outline has been set you can then make deeper cuts, and the blade should follow the pattern you have made. You may need to tidy up the edges with sandpaper I assume you are using a proper cutting mat I started out using a Stanley knife and resharpened the blades as they became blunt. Over the past few months I've been using a Japanese style leather knife for straight cuts & gentle curves, and a kiridashi for tighter curves
  7. Has anyone tried Un-doing saddle stitching?

    I mostly make sheaths which have relatively sort runs of stitching. If I see that a problem or mistake is starting to occur I unsew/unpick/ tease out the stitching with my round awl or a dart head. Straighten or pull out that thread with your fingers or through beeswax and you can carry on sewing without a join I sew leather by hand, but I also sew tents, rucsacs, and outdoor clothing by machine. Whether sewing leather or fabric, if I need to cut through stitching I use either a stitch ripper or a number 3 Swan Morton scalpel handle with a number 10 or 10A blade
  8. This supplier has Fil au Chinois and other European brands of linen thread. http://www.kurzke.co.uk Besides full reels she has sample packs of 5 and 10 m . This supplier has Campells Satin Laid Linen Thread http://www.marchand-medieval.com
  9. MYJ Waxed Linen Cable Thread

    Thanks. I've read your message, and you're right, the supplier's website is all in Chinese so I'll look out for Etsy Perhaps you could post on this forum when it is available, I'm sure other members would be interested It would be interesting to compare it with Fil au Chinois
  10. MYJ Waxed Linen Cable Thread

    It looks good, I prefer linen thread to synthetic, even the much recommended Tiger thread But - please can you tell us how to get it, I can't find it on Google. Do you have a supplier in Britain? And prices?
  11. Has anyone ever tried cutting a Poundo board?

    I've never used a Poundo board, but I understand they are made from thick, resilient rubber You could try using a hot knife, like a cheap vegetable knife heated in a gas flame. But let's see what other members think of that
  12. Thread snips /nippers/ snippers...

    Options - Get some good quality stitch nippers Use a scalpel or craft knife with disposable blades Get a wood carving knife with a suitably shaped blade. You will need to sharpen this now and again
  13. Complete newbie.

    There are about 10 to 12 pages of leatherwork on YouTube, each with bout 20 videos; watch as many as you have the stamina for, you'll soon pick it up. Sounds like you're already working through the relevant sections of this forum Keyfobs are good, Tandy sell a packet of the rings quite cheaply. They can help you learn pattern making, cutting out, saddle stitch, edge bevelling, edge burnishing, dyeing, stamping, and generally getting used to leather and the tools.
  14. Basic stitching tool related question

    I've just re - read my post This part should be obvious, but lets clear up any possible misunderstanding When I wrote about lubricating the prongs with beeswax I meant, of course, as you knock the chisel through the leather, and not when you polish them with abrasive paper Use the buffing board dry or with water I've just searched YouTube for 'leather covered walking stick'. there are 3 or 4 videos that look relevant, but I haven't watched any of them
  15. Basic stitching tool related question

    That chisel looks good value, but I think there could be a problem or misunderstanding You can sew leather with thread, and the chisel needs to have prongs that have a diamond shaped cross section, and set at an angle to the body of the chisel You can also sew leather with thin strips of leather, called lacing or thonging. The chisels for this have prongs with a flat section, like very small rectangles, and are set flat in line with the body of the chisel I can't quite tell from the picture, but it looks to me that this is a lacing chisel, which is not what you want. I think the word 'diamond' in the description just refers to the tips, which is confusing. Check with the supplier before you buy. Just tell them what you want to do, and they should advise you accordingly. I'd say prongs with 3 mm spacing Whatever chisel you get, it can be improved by polishing the prongs, especially the cheaper makes. Make a small file or buffing board by gluing some 500 or 600 grit wet & dry paper to a sliver of wood like a lollipop stick. And lubricate the prongs on a lump of beeswax as you use it In the short term you can hit the chisel with a steel hammer, which you may already have, but eventually this will damage the end of the chisel. You should use a soft hammer, like plastic or hide. Don't get a cheap rubber mallet, they will bounce and be difficult to control. Don't hammer on your cutting mat. I use a plastic kitchen chopping board about 12 mm thick Don't be tempted to wiggle the chisel around as you remove it, as this will distort the leather and possibly bend the prongs. Use a small length of wood to hold the leather down and go for a straight pull; the polishing & wax will help Depending on the thickness of your leather you might find that the prongs do not make perfect holes, in which case you will need to do some extra work with an awl, but cross that bridge when you come to it. I was going to reply anyway, as I don't think you can get 3 - prong chisels, you'll have to get 2 or 4 If you are going to make wrist straps they will be more comfortable if you bevel and polish the edges. Search YouTube and this forum for advice on that