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About zuludog

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/25/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northwest England
  • Interests
    Backpacking, Car mechanics, Model aeroplanes, Knifemaking, Leatherwork

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife sheath making
  • Interested in learning about
    general leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. Low budget Leather working

    Welcome to things leathery! There are lots of Threads about leather on this Forum, plus loads of videos; watch as many as you have the stamina for In particular, these two instructors are frequently recommended - Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson/Leodis Leather. This is good - 'Leodis Leather Workshop Renovation' - it shows the sort of things that can be done Have a look at the home page for Tandy Leather. At the bottom there is a heading 'Leather Buying Guide'. this shows a comparison of leather weights, and the sorts of things they can be used for Do your costings & estimates; if you're starting out it will probably be worth buying into their discount scheme I live in a flat and do all my leatherwork and other hobbies in my spare room, so I don't have a dedicated workshop either. I keep everything in a tool chest, the sort that mechanics use, so most things can be stored and packed away till they're needed. It doesn't have to be a top quality one as leatherworking stuff isn't as heavy as a load of engineer's tools
  2. Push knife

    Well those two videos are interesting. Over the years I have acquired various knives for leatherwork and model making, including the type of knife shown. It's a bit too big for model aeroplanes, but I might just dig it out and try it for leather
  3. Goods Japan

    Well, a few days ago I ordered some tools from Goods Japan, all from favourable reviews by Nigel Armitage 'Kyoshin Elle Master Edger Review' - one medium sized edger Seiwa Pricking Iron Review Part 8 - Seiwa Diamond - 2 prong X 4mm; 4 prong X4mm I'll see how I get on with these, and if they're OK for both the tools and the business side of things I'll consider getting some more items Note - Seiwa offer two types of pricking iron - Seiwa Diamond Leather Stitching Chisel, Review Part 8; these had good comments, and were ordered Seiwa European Leather Stitching Chisel, Pricking Iron Review Part 9, which he did not like. 'I did not favour the European Irons'
  4. Propper saddle stitch attempts

    I must admit that I hadn't heard of using double sided tape to fix pieces of leather together before sewing, till now. Any adhesive is simply to hold the leather together in the correct position while you sew it For sewing sheaths I use the minimum smear of contact glue then clamp it together and let it dry for at least an hour. Pad the clamps with scrap leather or you may mark your workpiece Even if your thread is ready waxed it would do no harm to give it an extra waxing yourself
  5. Propper saddle stitch attempts

    I've just found this video on YT which covers most aspects of the saddle stitch 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Ian Atkinson. He also clarifies the position on JJ # 2 needles
  6. Goods Japan

    Ah yes. I vaguely recall something about import duty from a couple of years ago I've heard that the trick is to order one item at a time, with about 4 or 5 weeks between orders. That way the item is classed as for personal hobby use If you order several items as one order that is classed as importing, and you have to pay duty Since postage is included in the price it won't make any difference to the total, it's just a bit inconvenient for you and the postman. Though I'm willing to be corrected on this
  7. Goods Japan

    I'm thinking of buying a few tools off Goods Japan - Seiwa Stitching Chisel; Kyoshin Elle Master Edger; an awl; and possibly some thread Are there any dos & don'ts about this? To remind you, I live in Britain
  8. Good youtube videos for beginners?

    Although this video was made a few years ago I've just found it, and it's excellent! It covers most aspects of the saddle stitch 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Ian Atkinson
  9. Propper saddle stitch attempts

    I went to a demonstration & talk by Nigel Armitage last year and on his recommendation I have done two things which have improved my stitching - I no longer use a stitching groover, I simply mark the line of the stitching with dividers I changed from Tandy 'big eye' needles to John James size 2; but make sure they are British size 2 I think both Nigel Armitage and Leodis Leather/Ian Atkinson have some subscription free videos about saddle stitch on YouTube which are subscription free
  10. Edge Finishing

    There are so many variations for edge finishing and burnishing. This is what I've been doing with knife sheaths mostly, for 5 or 6 years and I haven't had any problems or complaints - Trim, bevel, and sand the edges Apply gum tragacanth and burnish. If it's wet, fair enough; if it has dried, just carry on; gum trag dries quickly anyway, and dries while I'm burnishing Then apply Edge Kote, let it dry, and burnish. The whole sheath gets treated with leather grease, including the edges, though it obviously rubs off quickly I use a home made burnisher - a length of hardwood with a slot cut in it to accept the edges
  11. What to line a knife sheath with

    I haven't heard of lining a leather sheath, but I suppose it could be done You could try 0,5mm G10 which is normally used as a liner or spacer in knife handles, but I doubt if you could use it easily as part of a 'fold over' sheath, it would have to be a separate front & back. The problem I can see, though, is that any plastic that is soft & flexible enough to be formed & moulded to fit the knife would wear quickly. And conversely a tougher plastic would be difficult to form & mould; unless we know someone with a better knowledge of plastics You could try coating the inside with Resolene before sewing, but I think that would eventually wear off and be difficult to re-apply. Search YouTube for 'Applying finish to Leatherwork and the products I use' by Jacklore Knives To treat my sheaths - I have made a paste or cream by simply thinning some leather grease with a spot of leather oil & white spirit, then applying it right inside the sheath with a toothbrush, and letting it soak in. Then let it dry and polish it; the advantage of this is that you can keep on topping it up. As mentioned, I cut the bottom of the welt about 3mm short to leave a drain hole Alternately, you could make a sheath out of kydex. I have thought from time to time of making a sheath from wide webbing, like seat belt, but not yet got round to it
  12. Tandy tools are often dismissed by experienced leatherworkers, but I think their Craftool Pro chisel with 3mm spacing would be good for wallets, especially if you polish the prongs; and they are easy to obtain Synthetic thread such as Tiger/Ritza is popular, but I prefer linen. Fil au Chinois is not so easy to get hold of, but try some size 432 or 532 if you can, and see what you think of it But before you buy, let's see what anyone else thinks Yes to John James needles, size 2. But be careful; make sure you get British size 2. American size 2 is too big See this video on YouTube by Nigel Armitage - 'Saddle Stitch in Detail' from about 3-40 to 4-25
  13. Asian craftsman?

    Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on turning your hobby into a business Your standard of work is very good, especially the sewing, but I have a couple of points - I can't quite tell from all of the pictures, but have you considered burnishing the edges? And if you don't mind telling us, what sort of thread do you use, please?
  14. gum tragacanth

    You can get an idea of the required consistency from the immortal words of Ian Atkinson from Leodis Leather - "it looks like spunk"
  15. George Barnsley Paring Knife

    I'm not an expert on hacksaw blades, but as I understand it, modern bimetal 12mm wide hacksaw blades are so called because the main part of the blade is made from a flexible steel that will resist snapping; it is only the teeth that are hardened enough to cut other metals. These aren't much use to make knives as this flexible steel cannot be sharpened very well and they cannot be snapped to length Older blades were all hardened and can be made into knives, and can be snapped roughly to shape. They are difficult to find new, so search car boot sales, junk shops and so on. However, 12mm is a bit small for leather work. Now we're into the industrial sizes 25mm can make paring/kiridashi type knives. 40mm is best for skiving knives. I have also made a Japanese style leather knife from them These two sizes are stiffer, and about 1mm thick, and usually marked 'high speed steel' - or HSS. They are used mostly on automatic saws, like a donkey saw. Unfortunately as the number of traditional engineers and machine shops is diminishing, so too is the supply of used blades. Plus they are much in demand by all sorts of craftsmen for making knives & tools, so you will really have to search for one You will obviously need to grind off the teeth, cut & shape them, and make the sharp bevel edge. Be careful when you do this as it is easy to burn the steel. You will still need to do a fair amount of work with a stone & strop, but yes, you can get a very sharp edge I use the 25mm kiridashi style as it is, but for the skiving knives I grind the blunt end to a triangular shape, then fit it into a handle as for a narrow tang blade I have also made a skiving knife from a decorators filling knife. You need one with a traditional forged carbon steel blade, not the modern stamped stainless sheet. More than likely it will also have a nice wooden handle & a brass ferrule. Again, search junk shops etc; mine cost me 50p If you shorten the blade as you shape it, it will bebome less flexible