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About zuludog

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  • Birthday 04/25/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Northwest England
  • Interests
    Backpacking, Car mechanics, Model aeroplanes, Knifemaking, Leatherwork

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife sheath making
  • Interested in learning about
    general leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. uk, getting myself all confused

    This video is good & straightforward Essential tools to make leather goods by Harry Rogers
  2. uk, getting myself all confused

    Welcome to the fun! You can be sure in the knowledge that whatever you get you'll wish you'd bought something else It would help if you let us know what sort of things you want to make; if you have any idea of a wants list yet; and what sort of a budget you have Your basic decision is whether to get something fairly good, and hence a bit expensive, straight away, or to get a few cheap tools to get you started. The problem with the first choice is that if you're going to be buying here & there you need a bit of knowledge & experience in the first place. My choice would be to see what you have already, or in discount & craft shops, and get the minimum of specialist tools I don't think Tandy are as bad as people make out; you can try the stuff, and it's a convenient one stop shop.Then you can make a better decision for the future. Somewhere on one of his videos Nigel Armitage suggests starting that way Don't forget that as well as tools you'll need gum trag, stains, and various other bits & pieces, so get a wants list together and do your sums, and it will almost certainly be worth joining their discount scheme
  3. newb from the UK

    Welcome! Here are some assorted comments Search YT, and this forum for past threads, espec Getting started & tools; as many as you have the stamina for Ask your library for books on leathercraft, they usually have something, even if you have to order it cutting mat - the usual green thing, at craft shops and The Works discount book shop. Get the biggest you can manage Knife - lots to choose from, basically sharpen yourself or disposable blade. Start with a Stanley knife, you probably have one already. then as you gain experience you can think more carefully if you want something else Awl - aka diamond; harness; or saddlers awl. You will need one of these even if you get a stitching chisel. Traditionally you bought separate blade & haft then fitted & sharpened it yourself. This is a right pain and takes ages. Shop around for one that's ready to go. I think Bowstock & Tandy sell them for about a tenner. don't get the 4-in-1 awl sold by Tandy and others. It's expensive and not very good round awl, aka scratch awl - used for general poking & prodding with holes & stitching, and marking patterns, though I usually use a pencil. Cheap enough You will need to mark the position of stitches. Try a 2-prong 4mm chisel and take it from there. You can start off hitting chisels & tools with a steel hammer but this will eventually damage them, so get a soft hammer asap - hide, plastic, or wood. Don't get a rubber mallet, they will bounce too much Needles - Tandy are OK but many prefer John James #2. They're cheap enough to buy both Thread - Synthetic or natural, ie linen? Ritza is popular, but expensive as you must buy a large roll. Some people, myself included, prefer linen. Get a small roll of natural 18/3 linen, and Tandy's nylon 1227-01, and see how you go Tandy - this is a chain of hobby leather craft shops. As with any hobby enthusiasts will prefer specialist (& usually more expensive) brands, but this is a convenient place to start. If you're buying quite a few things in the near future it would probably be worth joining their discount scheme. They have shop in Manchester; I have always found the staff to be pleasant & helpful, so you could give them a ring. They often have offers that are not on their regular website. Search t'Net for 'tandy leather manchester' and you will get the prices in £. Get on their email newsletter to hear of offers Here are some other suppliers - artisan leather; bowstock; h webber; leprevo; abbey england; these are good on YT - Leodis Leather; Nigel Armitage; Leathertoolz Leather - start with 3mm veg tanned. At the moment Tandy Manchester have veg tan single shoulder #99606 - 03 on offer Make your own strop from oddments of wood & leather, but get some proper stropping compound. This will be just about the easiest piece of leatherwork you will do
  4. Sewing Velcro to leather

    Sewing Velcro is straightforward enough Does it have to be leather? I've sewn Velcro to nylon fabric & webbing by machine, no problems, and nylon webbing would be easier to keep clean. Just seal the cut ends with a candle or lighter flame If you use belt leather that could be too thick to sew by machine, and hand sewing would take longer. I think in this case nylon webbing would be a better choice than leather
  5. Pricking irons comparison for Newbies

    Confusion reigns - they look like stitching chisels to me
  6. None of your beezwax!

    I don't do any tooling or carving, so I don't need a thick, heavy slab. But for skiving I use the glass oven door off an old cooker. I got it originally for painting model planes on; it's very easy to clean
  7. Name that tool

    As Bodean mentioned, it looks like some kind of safety knife used to cut string in a mill or packing hall As there is no point there would be less chance of damage or injury to the product or the worker, and the hooked end meant that the cord would not slip off the end as it was being cut
  8. What is this?

    It's a set of borers for cork or rubber bottle stoppers, as used in laboratory glassware. I used this sort of tool years ago when I studied chemistry at school, college, and then worked as a lab. technician. The sizing was so arranged that the unwanted plug could be pushed out of a cutter by inserting the next smaller size or two. The final tool was a solid rod to remove the plug from the smallest borer/cutter. The ends should be sharp, and there was a special angled knife for doing this. It was hard work using them, and rubber & cork bungs were being rapidly superceded by 'Quickfit' and similar makes of standard glassware with ground glass joints It would have helped if you'd shown the complete set, as you have, and an individual cutter I suppose they could have been used on leather, sheet cork & rubber or any similar materials where you need to make round holes, discs, washers, and so on The numbers are the diameter in millimetres Search Google for 'cork borer' and 'cork borer sharpener'; also 'quickfit jointed glassware' to see what replaced cork bungs
  9. Home made Stainless Steel Burnisher First Stage.

    Ah, now I see; thankyou Why not ask around to find a woodturner or a woodturning club to make a wooden handle? That sort of thing is meat & drink for them
  10. Problems With A Dremel

    All good advice. When you have taken it apart give the threads a very light smear of oil or Vaseline to prevent it sticking in future
  11. Home made Stainless Steel Burnisher First Stage.

    I don't see how this is a burnisher. Are you sure you don't mean a leather fitter's hammer or smasher? Whatever it is, you've done a good job; it would be nice to see it when it's finished
  12. Pricking Chisel

    I make sheaths from 3 to 3,5mm veg tan and 3 or 4mm stitch spacing, which is about 6 to 8 spi; and linen thread. So that's about the same as your use I use - Tandy Craftool, the ones with the round handles & black finish, about $18; and Tandy Craftool Pro, the ones with a flat handle & steel finish, about $ 30. Mainly because they're easily available. I haven't tried any other makes, but I'm happy enough with these But I've polished the prongs with small files or wands I made by glueing 400 grit wet & dry paper to flat lollipop sticks
  13. Just a little curious...

    I was born in 1950, one of the Baby Boomers That means I'm 67 now, and will be 68 in a couple of months time Who'd have thought when I had shoulder length hair and wore red velvet flares that I would make it to my bus pass & pension?
  14. Awl or chisel?

    The traditional method of sewing leather is to mark the stitching holes with a pricking iron (which has short teeth) or a stitching wheel then transfer the work to a saddler's clamp and make the holes with an awl Then the stitching chisel was developed to combine the two jobs; it both marks and makes the holes. It is, in effect, several awl blades mounted on a handle, but because it would be difficult to push through several blades by hand, it is made into a chisel so you can hit it with a hammer. Some people find this method faster and easier A chisel can be used just to mark the hole positions if you only tap it in slightly So those are the two usual methods - an awl & a clamp, or a chisel on a flat surface. Using an awl on a flat surface is a bit unusual, but if it suits you, fair enough. Presumably you mark the hole positions first with another tool? I make mostly knife sheaths from 3 to 3,5mm veg tan, so the combined thickness is around 10mm. It can be difficult to pull out a stitching chisel when it has been knocked right into that thickness so I have developed my own technique. I only knock in the chisel about half way then transfer to a pony and finish it with an awl. That means the chisel is easier to pull out, and it is easier to push the awl through a thinner layer of leather. As the saying goes 'it works for me' I use Tandy chisels and I've polished the prongs with a small file or wand I made by glueing wet & dry paper to a lollipop stick I used to hammer the chisel onto an old plastic kitchen chopping board, but recently I use cork. I bought a set of cork table mats, about 10" x 12" and use 4 thicknesses of them. Don't glue them as the glue will blunt the prongs; also you will not be able to swap them round when the top layer becomes worn. Just tape them together along the edges
  15. Single Bevel Clicking Knife

    I've also found this video - Making a carving knife from a jigsaw blade by Meighan Workshop