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About zuludog

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/25/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Northwest England
  • Interests
    Backpacking, Car mechanics, Model aeroplanes, Knifemaking, Leatherwork

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife sheath making
  • Interested in learning about
    general leatherwork
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. What to make?

    Search YouTube for 'leather', 'leatherwork', & leathercraft'. There are loads of videos and ideas, including pants. dress/skirt, jacket, gloves, bags, tool roll, and so on Once I found videos of a lady who unpicks old jackets made of leather, waxed cotton, canvas & similar heavy materials, and turns them into bags. Search YT for 'making bags from old clothes', and 'making bags from old leather jacket'.
  2. Veg Tan Leather Finish (for best patina)

    Well, if you want to keep the natural veg colour, the obvious thing is not to dye it; but you'll still have to treat it in some way I had a large tub of leather grease that I used on my hiking boots, but now I use synthetic trail shoes I hadn't used it for a couple of years. I spooned it into an old jar and thinned it with white spirits, (which I think is the British term for mineral thinners or turpentine substitute) to the consistency of a soft paste or thick cream I apply that to both dyed & undyed veg tan leather knife sheaths & soak it in. Let it dry for a couple of days then buff with a soft cloth. I've been doing that for well over a year and had no complaints It will darken the leather slightly, usually to a sort of dark yellow or mustard colour, then it develops a patina as you use it. When you first apply the grease the leather looks blotchy, and you think you've made a mistake, but it evens out if you leave it I can't remember what make the grease was, you'll just have to play around with some scrap
  3. Suggest a first project for a beginner

    Welcome to the Forum! There are loads of videos about leatherwork on YouTube. Watch as many as you have the stamina for, but to make things a bit more manageable, use the Search box to narrow things down. I like those by Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson/Leodis Leather; Jacklore Knives has a couple of good videos on sheaths, or just Surf away! Note that SilverForgeStudio made a mistake - Leodis Leather is run by Ian Atkinson, not Anderson Perhaps calling key fobs a project is too grand, but they can show you - pattern making; cutting out; stitching; edge bevelling; edge burnishing dyeing; tooling/stamping/carving, depending on how far you want to go.
  4. Leather Knife Sheath

    Search YouTube for 'Japanese Leather Knife' There are several videos showing these types of knives and how they are used I have one, and use it mainly for straight cuts and skiving. Many people find them a bit strange to use at first, but they're OK once you get the hang of them
  5. Thankyou Sheilajeanne; my computer skills are even worse than my leather work
  6. Have a look at this video. Although it is for a knife, he shows how to measure & allow for a thick item, and you could use a similar method. It is well worth watching the whole thing for the assembly, finishing, and other techniques, and is a masterclass in leather work 'Designing and Making Leather Slip Cases' by Ian Atkinson
  7. storing oils/dyes/paint

    YES! And I thought it was just me!
  8. storing oils/dyes/paint

    I got a cheap waterproof plastic storage box from a local discount store, and made some divisions or 'nests' from cardboard. I don't need to carry it anywhere, it just sits on the floor in a corner of my work room. So far nothing has fallen over or spilled, but if it did, the liquid would be contained in the box Handsome is as handsome does
  9. Have a look at these two videos by Ian Atkinson. They are a bit long, but are masterclasses in leatherwork; in fact anything by Ian is worth watching. He shows what kind of glue he uses; how it is applied and used; and subsequent burnishing Designing and Making Leather Slip Cases & Making a Leather Rat Cutlery RC-3 Sheath
  10. Question re. Punches

    I sharpen my punches by hand in a similar way to immiketoo. I lay a piece of wet & dry paper on a surface that has a bit of 'give' or softness to it, like 3 or 4mm leather or an old mouse mat; then draw it along, rolling or turning it as you do so. Lubricate the paper with water or window cleaning spray, the thin pale green stuff If you use a hard surface like a sharpening stone or wet & dry paper on a sheet of glass there will be a tendency to produce flat spots.. You should only need a needle file on the outside if the punch is particularly blunt or damaged For the inside I use a round/rat tailed needle file because it's difficult to roll wet & dry paper around a stick or rod of a small diameter; use a fine grade one, and go gently. I follow this with a bamboo barbecue stick coated with stropping compound directly onto the wood The wet & dry paper I use has grit sizes from 400 to 2,000; if you keep up with the sharpening you won't need the coarser grades so often. Then I finish using the same technique on a strop
  11. Sheath knife

    Make a 2 part sheath - front & back; build up the lower part of the back, where the blade fits, with extra thicknesses of leather so there is a step at the hilt. Thus when viewed side on the knife will lie horizontally, and not tilt down towards the tip of the blade This video shows exactly the sort of thing to do. It's a bit long, but well worth watching; it is a masterclass of sheath making 'Making a Leather Rat Cutlery RC - 3 Sheath' by Ian Atkinson It would be difficult to make a sheath with that sort of step in it which would also cover the handle. As bikermutt07 states, the sheath design is dictated by the knife. I suppose you could try making a wooden pattern and some wet moulding
  12. Help me undestand

    KENNETH M Have a look at this video - 'Designing and Making Leather Slip Cases' by Ian Atkinson Although it's about making slip cases and not wallets, they are similar, and it is an excellent video on how to mark out and assemble thin leather items
  13. Stohlman's Book Method

    I have two awls - one from Bowstock, I think, which has a narrow blade, about 2mm, and I got a blade only from John James and mounted it in my own haft; this is the more usual wider size at about 3,5mm They both needed to be shaped & sharpened, which took ages, especially the JJ. I used a medium and a fine oilstone, then a strop, spreading the work over 3 afternoons. Trying to do the work in one go would be tiring and probably not produce as good results I find I like the narrow awl. I tried Tandy's Craftool Pro Stitching Awl 83020 in their shop a while ago, and have just bought one when they had it on offer at half price It would be interesting to try a Japanese awl, especially the Craft Sha I like to think I'm fairly good at sharpening, but recently I tried the Scary Sharpening System - find it on Google and YouTube, and I'm impressed. I sharpened a head knife and an awl blade very well, easily, and quickly. I'll report on that soon in the Sharpening section
  14. Stohlman's Book Method

    I've just had a look at Crimson Hides website; just Search Google Made up awls are a bit expensive at $95 Singapore = $68 USA = £52 presumably as the hafts are carefully shaped to fit your hand But the blades alone are more reasonable at $20 Singapore = $15 USA = £11, so you could fit a blade to your own handle these prices are before shipping and any import duty
  15. Stitch grover

    About 18 months ago I went to a lecture & demonstration by Nigel Armitage. on his suggestion i have done two cheap & simple things that have improved my saddle stitch - I no longer use a stitch groover, I just mark the line of the stitching with dividers; and have changed from Tandy 'big eye' needles to John James #2 needles You're not looking at precision draughtmanship. I got a pair of dividers from a secondhand tool stall at my local market for £2-50, about $3