zuludog

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About zuludog

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  • Birthday 04/25/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northwest England
  • Interests
    Backpacking, Car mechanics, Model aeroplanes, Knifemaking, Leatherwork

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife sheath making
  • Interested in learning about
    general leatherwork
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  1. Don't be so impatient! It's only about 6 hours from your initial post to that one. People have jobs, family life, and other things as well as leatherwork. Plus, this is an international forum, allow for the time differences I've noticed that it can take about 48 hours to get a good selection of replies on here
  2. Some things to consider Normally for leather you would use a saddler's awl or a stitching chisel, followed by sewing with a round - tipped harness needle. That would be OK on the leather, but as a saddler's awl is in effect a very small chisel it would cut through the fibres of the canvas which would lead to its fraying I assume the canvas is fairly thick & heavy - 6 to 8 oz? You would normally use a heavy duty pointed needle for that, but then that type of needle would be hard work in leather Glovers needles are designed to sew very thin leather, typically used to make gloves, hence the name. They are pointed and have a triangular cross section, so combine the function of an awl & needle together. But they are quite thin and I doubt if they would sew a double thickness of leather & canvas So it looks as though you need to pierce the leather, and penetrate the canvas by parting the fibres without cutting them I suggest doing a saddle stitch but with a round/scratch awl, followed by sewing with a harness needle. But just make a few holes at a time then follow quite quickly with sewing, before the holes in the canvas have had time to close up I've used this technique when sewing heavy canvas & webbing together in various combinations; it's a bit slow, but it works
  3. I have been hiking & backpacking for >40 years (not continuously!) and have experienced dealing with slightly different shaped feet, for myself and friends. You have done all the things I can think of, so if you still don't have a satisfactory result, why not look at the problem from a different angle? There are companies and organisations that will supply and match up different sized boots & shoes, or individual shoes & boots. You could see if they would exchange your right boot for a smaller one, though you probably wouldn't get the same model; see if they will trade in both boots and supply an odd sized but matching pair. Or contact them for advice anyway; they might have other ideas to make your existing right boot fit properly I've searched Google for 'buying individual shoes' and found odd shoe finder.com; disabled-world.com; national odd shoe exchange; amputee coalition Some of these organisations have further listings of other suppliers In Britain there is a company that will make and/or pair up odd sized boots from new - Altberg; there may be someone similar in USA Just one more thing, obvious once it's mentioned - check that your boots are actually pair, and that you haven't been supplied with a mis - matched pair in the first place! Look at the labels, and also compare them against each other, and do some measurements. I worked in an outdoor equipment shop for 5 years, and it has been known. You can have individual insoles/footbeds moulded, but that's usually expensive
  4. Well, not about dyeing or painting, but still about focussing or concentrating I once made a sheath for a knife, and followed all the stages right through to the finished artice Then I realised it was left handed, or a mirror image, or however you want to describe it; I'm sure you'll know what I mean Sort of mistake you only do once, and learn from it.
  5. That's very good and clear! I've been looking for something like that for ages
  6. I, too, started with the Tandy 4-in-1 awl. Even after I sharpened it, it still wasn't very good, so I went the traditional way, and bought a John James blade which I mounted in a haft and sharpened myself That turned out quite good, but what a performance! It took hours & hours of tedious work with oilstones and a strop to get anything like a reasonable standard. Surely with modern high tech and computer aided manufacturing techniques it should be possible to make a decent awl for a reasonable price that can be used straight away? Then subsequently just a bit of stropping as with any knife For example Mora of Sweden make excellent sharp & strong knives in their 'Clipper' range, to retail for about £12. I'm not bothered about turned hardwood handles; I'd be quite happy with plastic as long as it did the job Search Google for 'mora clipper' to see what I mean
  7. Finding a good edge beveller seems to be a frequent request on this forum! I have seen other threads, and I, too, am thinking of changing up from my basic Tandy model. I would want a #2 I don't want to import from USA, or pay for the very best & most expensive, so I've been considering these, and have converted all the prices to euros for comparison, which is as near as dammit to USA$ Leatherhouse.eu sell the Pro Edge beveller, which looks very much like it is the Craft Sha edge beveller & sharpening kit, for 20-90E, Tandy Craftool Pro Edger 83001-04 is 36-80E with Gold Club discount Vergez Blanchard is 29-84E Abbey have the Osborne 125 at 37-76E I wouldn't mind the Vergez Blanchard, but they have a minimum order of 100E. No doubt the Osborne has better steel, but it still looks like the basic Tandy model, and I would like an edger that gives a slightly rounded effect, as opposed to a straight bevel or chamfer So I'm thinking of getting the Tandy Craftool one. I can visit their new Manchester shop on one of their open afternoons and try it before I buy; also I'm now old enough to have a free bus pass, so there will be no transport or shipping costs. Any other comments or suggestions?
  8. Bash the stitching down with a hammer or burnish it with something like the back of a spoon or a rounded plastic screwdriver handle, but clean any dirt or grease off it first I made a flat burnisher/slicker from a broken axe haft easily enough. Copied the style from illustrations on The Net, including Goods Japan
  9. JENGRANGER - I've just been on Tandy USA website. They currently have the Craftool Pro Stitching Awl # 83020 - 00 for sale at $ 19-99
  10. Besides the suppliers listed in the link there is http://jwoodleathers.co.uk but I haven't had chance to visit them yet Don't forget Tandy, they have recently opened a shop in Manchester; Google for 'Tandy Leather Manchester'. Get on Tandy's e - newsletter, they sometimes have reasonable offers Sorry, can't get the link to work. Google for 'leather supplier keighly' and that should find them
  11. Probably, but it would be a tedious process IMO this is one of the times you are better off scraping some money together and buying the proper tool in the first place
  12. I'd say about 2 mm, but a bit thinner is OK Get on to Tandy Leather's homepage, and scroll down to the bottom; there are several lists of information & advice. These two both have descriptions of the types of leather and suggested uses; also conversion tables between measures - oz, mm, and others Leather buying guide Leather craft ABC
  13. The Range Rover was, and still is, a top class vehicle, with trim & fittings accordingly - not to mention the price! Alright, perhaps I'm a bit biased, but when restored those seats would show classic British understated quality. So you can probably guess my opinion, which is to restore them to their original standard . This would obviously require some careful, patient work, but probably not as much as re - covering them completely. I think it would be extremely difficult to recolour black leather How old are the seats? If before 2002 they would have been covered with Connolly Leather; search for it on Google Over time the foam interior of car seats deteriorates, so check that as well There is an apocryphal tale of a millionaire Texan ranch owner who bought a Rolls Royce, but took it back after a couple if days as he was very annoyed to find that he'd spent a lot of money on a car, only to find that it was trimmed in PVC. The dealer had to explain that it was, in fact, leather; very good leather. It seems the ranch owner had never seen such perfectly smooth, blemish free leather before.
  14. The Range Rover seats don't look too bad. I've searched YouTube for 'repairing leather car seats';' how to restore leather car seats'; how to repair a leather tear in a car seat'; and there are lots of references Besides the actual repairs there would also be general leather clean & restoration, there are lots of kits available. Watch a few videos and see what you think IMO the oak/pecan is too garish
  15. However there are a couple of places where I think you should be prepared to pay full price A cutting mat, the usual green thing; get the biggest you can manage; they're not too expensive An awl. For sewing leather the blade has slightly flattened section, and is often called a saddler's awl or a harness awl. Traditionally you buy the blade and the handle separately then fit them together and do the final sharpening yourself; which is a right pain, so it's easier to buy an awl ready for use Do not be tempted by the 4-in-1 awl you often see, especially at Tandy; it is expensive and not very sharp or good. On the other hand I have tried this from Tandy - Craftool Pro Stitching Awl #83020 - 00 and I think it's pretty good. Shop around for the best price you can find; at the moment it's on offer in Britain for £20, about $26 There are loads of videos on sharpening on YouTube, and a complete section on this forum; however I think this is one of the best. Although it is about chisels the techniques can be quite easily used on leather tools 'Preparing and Sharpening Woodworking Chisels' by Paul Sellers Come to think of it, a 1'' or 1 1/2'' wood chisel would make a decent skiving knife; see if there is a secondhand tool stall near you