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About alexitbe

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  1. As Eric said, all these fur or glove machines have a small footprint and are portable and weigh at most 16 kg. I would say that the single thread overseamers are only good for fur, where there is little risk of the thread being broken as it is protected by the fur itself on the oneside and lining on the other. double thread can be used for gloves or Ugg boots( I just checked my girlfriends)..It does not unravel if broken. Eric, perhaps I can ask your opinion on one of my overseamers?... The timing is wrong and I cannot fix it. The wheel either does not feed or feeds at the wrong time time when the needle has penetrated the leather. It is not a Bonis, but a Textima. Cheers Alex
  2. Hi Eric, I would never have thought of doing that, but it makes sense as the Bonis machine's stitch can easily unravel when broken. However, it must take a lot of skill to sew the seam twice and I know I couldn't do it (atleast at the moment). I have enough trouble sewing in a straight line. There is a big market for Bonis machines. If you were to sell, I am sure you would get a good price. Cheers Alex
  3. Thanks Eric, Bob and Trash Treasure... Glad you found it interesting. Eric, thanks for the kind offer, but I have managed to a parts list, just not a maual. It would be nice to somehow find a manual. Today, I had another play with it and it managed to sew some shearling really nicely. The thread was too thin really, but here are both sides of the same piece. needle thread Spool Thread. I might try making a tester shearling mitten just to see how it gets through it. I would say that thread size of upper and lower have to be the same...Otherwise it doesn't sew. well.. I am using Gutermann 120, which is a little thinner than the Gutermann sewall thread. It is used particularly for sergers and I would say that it is happy in 80 nm sized needles.. Cheers Alex
  4. Well I thought this might be a bit different to what we normally see on here... Its an old glove making machine which is unusual in that it does a standard lockstitch. In my experience most glove machines are like fur machines and do a single or double thread overseam stitch. It took me severall attempts to thread, and it might still be wrong, but its sews well with only an occasional pull through of the upper thread (red) to the underside (black thread). The machine is full of fluff, especially in the spool ad hook area so I think a quick clean will do the job. The spool is not turning smoothly by hand, so I think this is the source. Lower or spool thread side. Upper or needle thread side Enjoy something different... You can ask me questions, but I really know nothing about it. It has a variable stitch length adjuster, which is handily writtine in SPI. The largest look to be about 5-6 mm, which for gloves seems to be extremely long. In addition, as with a normal sewing machine one must hold the threads at the begining otherwise the upper thread gets pulled through and there's a bit of a mess underneath Cheers Alex
  5. Hi Constabulary, I will post a picture of what I have... It is a real bastardised Singer 111w It has a lever for stitch length adjustment and also does reverse. Its German made and is called Singer 111wd180. I can find no information on it.. It came with a spare presser bar with a roller attached. So I have installed it and wish to set it up properly. Cheers Alex PS I now have a spare shuttle carrier for the Claes. Maybe you can convert your 201 to the larger spool 203... I can lend it to you for an extended period...
  6. The Patent Elastic is the forefather of the Claes patcher and the Claes patcher can do 12 mm. It is far superior to the Singer, in that respect... The Slaes patcher is rebadged for the US market as.... hmm I have forgotten...I will find out later. Alex
  7. Hello all, I have a strange singer 111w, which is needle feed only. I have an old singer rolling presser foot, but no matching needle plate or feed dogs. I understand that I need a single line feed dog, but there seems to be two types. One with a teeth both infront and behind the needle hole and another type with teeth only behind. I will need to do sharp turns and I wonder if the feed dog with teeth behind the hole would be best. Do you have any advice? Thanks Alex
  8. Thanks for posting... I think I am going to give it a go... I have a few tools from a cobbler, a press and a few other things.. I am waiting for this book, "Handmade Shoes for Men" by Laszlo Vass and Magda Molnar,to arrive before Christmas and then I'll have a crack... First, I might try replacing a leather sole on an old pair of shoes.. Cheers ALex
  9. Despite not owning one of their machines and being on the wrong side of the pond...Ryan O ' neel has been nothing but helpful and courteous, despite me not spending big bucks... That's great service.. I just wanted to let my appreciation be known.. Cheers Alex
  10. aw.... "handy?!" that's terrible... Thanks Tom for the work on making it a searchable pdf...That's a real bonus... Does anyone have anymore glove resources, maybe we can add them here? There is not much around.. Cheers Alex
  11. Well, I am going to give it another go this year after last year's disasters.... Someone has taken the time to upload this information from a long out-of-print glove making book from the 30's... Have a look here... and let us know how you get on... Cheers Alex
  12. Hello YinTx, You certainly do some neat and careful work, which is a joy to look at. I have never seen such polished tools, and I guess they help you. Can you remember where you bought them from? Cheers Alex
  13. As Constabulary said, its very close to a Claes. The arm looks to be the same in shape and form. Check out the very early Claes machines... Its seems to be somewhere between them and the later CLaes RPX. However, the take-up lever with its spring system is different to what I have seen. ALthough i have not really researched it.. Cheers Alex
  14. This sounds the most sensible and easiest thing to do. The grinder/sander is something that almost everyone will have access to Cheers Alex
  15. After removing the teeth, why not simply sandblast the base to make rough and then polish by hand to the smoothnes you wish?