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About kseidel

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  • Birthday 02/25/1965

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Cody, Wyoming
  • Interests
    Fishing, Hunting, Riding Horses, Shooting, Reloading, Silversmithing, Camping, Traveling, Art,

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    other leatherworkers
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  1. Book recommendation for beginner

    The books you have listed are good places to start. Also Lucky seven for wallets and lucky eight for belts are good how to books that would be good for beginners. Lucky seven has small projects that you can do in a sitting. All have good pointers and tips. Once you get a good understanding of the principles in these books, Sheridan style will not be so intimidating. The principles of stamping are the same regardless of the style of pattern. Good luck!
  2. Saddle repair

    I can repair this for you, but I would recommend that you contact John Fallis and have him do the repair for you. He is most familiar with the particular construction of the saddle, and his prices are considerably lower than mine. John's address is 17402 N. Franklin Blvd Nampa, ID 83687 Phone: 208-461-7252
  3. latest roughout

    Now I am confused.... Did you stitch your horn and cantle using a "saddle stitch" using two needles crossing the threads in the hole as you progress, or a "lockstitch" using a hook and pulling a loop from one side that the thread from the other side is threaded thru and then pulling the "lock" into the center?
  4. latest roughout

    Yes, raising the rear dee would have been the proper adjustment to maintain the shallower, larger radius of the rear jockey to match the skirt.
  5. latest roughout

    Nice looking saddle Jon. Clean and neat and well made. May I add a critique...mostly related to design... skirt shape does not match seat and jockey shapes. Skirt should have a fuller rear corner to match jockey (or change jockey shape to match skirt). Side seat jockey is a bit too deep down the side, and a bit too short front to back. Follow the cantle line around the seat jockey and back thru the front of the swell. This is cosmetic, and wont affect the functionality of the saddle.
  6. bleeding saddle stringd

    Interesting to read the replies and hear the "guesses." The proper way to bleed strings is to cut from the bottom up, as shown in your pic labeled "UP". This allows the strings to lay down smoothly and is more attractive.
  7. Your swivel knife is not a tool to skimp and go cheap. All of your tooling depends on the swivel knife... right down to the borders. You will use it more than any other tool. The cheap knives produce a lot of friction in the barrel as you carve since you are applying pressure to the top of the yoke. This leads to ragged cuts and tremendous fatigue! You will never regret spending a few more dollars on the swivel knife. If you want professional quality results, get a professional swivel knife. Chuck Smith also makes a blade machined from cobalt bar stock. This material offers a nearly drag free cut. I seldom even strop these blades, they carve so smoothly. Total cost of knife with blade about $125. Not that much in the scheme of leather working tools. It's not like buying a stitcher!
  8. I prefer Chuck Smith Ol' Smoothie. Shaft and yoke are mounted with a ball bearing and are balanced and smooth. Barry King's are not. Both are the same price. No comparison. I have them all, and carve many hours a day. I mainly use the ol' smoothie.
  9. First Saddle

    Well Jared, congratulations on making your first saddles. By the looks of your facebook page and reading your posts, it will be the first of many. You are ambitious for a 16 year old in this society. If you are willing to work as hard at perfecting your skills as you seem excited about promoting yourself, you will enjoy a bright and successful future. Just last week someone sent me a pic of one of my first saddles and it reminded me of where I started. I was 14 when I started making saddles, and they were pretty rough! But I didn't know any better, and I was proud of them. Big Sioux gave you a direct and accurate critique... and he didn't cut you much slack. I appreciate that he was willing to give you and honest evaluation. I would like to encourage you to burn the book and video that you used on this saddle, and start fresh with a qualified maker. Then make it a priority to study saddles. Expose yourself to all that you can find. You will learn much good from saddles made by masters, and maybe more of the bad made by inexperienced and commercial makers. Learn to evaluate what you are seeing and to be able to duplicate the designs. It is apparent that you do not have a very good base of knowledge regarding the finer elements of a saddles' design. As you evaluate the saddle that you have just finished, you will see the glaring design flaws. Later, you will see the more subtle elements that you can improve in the future. If you want to make a career as a saddlemaker, consider getting some personal training. Your swell cover is testimony that you respond well to personal help as this may be the best part on this saddle. You can learn a great deal from books and videos, but many times more from training in person. Get some GOOD books and videos, and invest in some personal training. Maybe take some classes at a leather worker trade show, and find a local saddlemaker (or several) to teach you some tricks as you develop. You could learn the hard way and take 20 years, or get some training, and shorten that learning curve by many years. Don't get discouraged, this is a great career, and very rewarding. I wish you the best of luck in your venture. Keith Seidel
  10. Wedding ring Metal type wet leather

    The metal not what causes the black marks on the leather. It is from your hands... sweat, oils, etc. The tools you handle, the water, even your diet can create black stains on your leather. A simple wash with oxalic acid before oiling will neutralize any black marks on your leather.
  11. order right & left skirting sides?

    Sorry for delay in response... I am not getting notifications on this post for some unknown reason. Your assumption is incorrect. Both fenders will cut out next to each other from the butt of one side. The riggings come next to the fenders and mirror each other side by side. Then one skirt. The seat will cut out of the butt on the other side. Then the rear jockeys nest to each other to match, and then the other skirt. Both skirts are cut lengthwise on the hide and will be back of the skirt toward the butt of the hide, and bottom of the skirt to the back or top of the cow. They will now be consistent in surface and have the best leather toward the back for consistent visual and stability of the back corner. Front will have shoulder wrinkles running from top to bottom and are covered with the rigging.
  12. Crowner?

    Impossible to answer without seeing the same video. Can you post a link?
  13. order right & left skirting sides?

    I would not say the tensile strength is different from hide to comparable hide. However, the strength varies throughout a hide. Cutting one skirt lengthwise and another crosswise will most certainly affect the strength from one to the other. Cutting riggings from different hides, but from similar positions and directions in the hide will have comparable strengths and is acceptable practice.
  14. order right & left skirting sides?

    I always make my saddles from one right and one left side of skirting. It is possible to make a quality saddle from two rights or lefts, however, I prefer to make from matching pairs. This is largely for the symmetry of the skirts. It is especially beneficial when making in-skirt riggings and single rear skirts without jockeys. I believe that the location of a part on a hide and its orientation has a critical relation to the quality of a saddle and how well it will hold up under hard use over the long years. Keith
  15. Handsewn saddles

    Sounds like you are a prime candidate for a good hook and awl stitcher!