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About Sonydaze

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  • Location
    Qualicum Beach, BC
  • Interests
    leatherwork, woodwork, metalwork & motorcyles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Marine, animal, industrial & adult leather products
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  1. Take a good look at Uwe's tables. I replaced the dealer supplied table with Uwe's and am very happy with the change. You will love the magnetically held plate for seeing what you are doing when changing the bobbin. I would be trying to return the one you have... very poorly done or for a different machine.
  2. Sunstar km-380 cylinder arm machine

    I have three KM-590BL Sunstar machines. They have proven to be reliable, hard working machines. The KM-590s are made for up to 1/2" thick and will sew it all day long. I think the KM-380 is rated for up to 3/8" thick materials. @Uwe Mason Sewing in Vancouver imported and sold Sunstar for a bunch of years, they also tend to have a good parts inventory. The guy to talk to there is Marc if you are trying to find something.
  3. LK-1900A-HS

    I bought it used, it came with a custom foot for sewing labels sewed a rectangle. I use it most of the time for a straight bartack. (example 1" straps use pattern 17 with X:185 & Y:100) You can get software to create programs for it (or you dealer may be able to make them). My understanding is that it can be programmed to sew just about any pattern in a 20mm x 40mm area. You need to make sure the feet on it are compatible with the pattern you want to run. If you don't have a manual, I have a pdf... somewhere. PM me with your email, but please note your machine is newer and may have some differences.
  4. LK-1900A-HS

    I have had one of these machines for about 10 years. It works great for sewing on buckles and can replace riveting in many applications. One thing I have found is that they like to sew fast rather than slow...dial up the speed! I run #92 nylon thread on top and #69 in the bobbin through a size 20 (125) needle
  5. Cutting extra thick leather

    I use a band saw with a finer blade. It cuts quickly with no burning of the edge.
  6. Snap Setting Issues

    This is most often caused by too long of posts on the domes and studs or crappy snaps. Get posts the correct length and stick to quality brass snaps. Correct components are inexpensive compared to the time wasted fighting with problems or damaging leather (that you have a lot of work invested in).
  7. Pricing leather goods

    My suggestion is to price your materials (including shop supplies) at a reasonable markup, add on your labour at a real wage and view that as your cost. Then add a reasonable amount for a profit. If you do less, you are likely working for a not great wage. My .02.
  8. Leather Piping

    If you contact any sewing machine dealers that advertise at the top of the forum page, they should be able to offer you feet for making different thicknesses of piping.
  9. Glad to hear that you have it solved. Electrical issues can be very frustrating.
  10. I had a similar problem with my old Atom clicker. It finally turned out to be a broken wire where it attached to a connector. It would make contact most of the time but not all of the time. Also if your USMC clicker has the hytronic feature on it, a problem with this could cause it not to cycle. If so try it in the stroke mode.
  11. I keep a small piece of bee's wax on the machine and rub it on the needle shaft when things start lifting (usually glue not completely cured) This helps and also seems to polish the needle so it slides out easier.
  12. Skiving Machine Ripping Leather, please help !

    Yes, we make a lot of straps with a buckle on one end. The buckle end gets skived down so the fold over isn't as thick. With the straight foot on the skiver. it can be set up to quickly and nicely bevel the end of the strap as well.
  13. Weaver Easy Edger

    I have the 2 edged one and think it works great.
  14. Leather splitter (EU Sale)

    You may want to talk to #Mocivnik He is in Slovakia and started this thread: