Seagrove59

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About Seagrove59

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    Male
  • Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada

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  • Interested in learning about
    Tooling

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  1. Yes with the stiffing material it is a tight closing. Another 1/4 should make it better
  2. Old case fell apart so used it as template with some scrap leather and used old hard frame. Couple of dying issue and will make centre section wider in n next version, but am pleased how it came out. PGY The back
  3. Also picked up a C.S. Osborne, handle did not survive the removal, made new one by joining the butt end of original handle with a piece of birds eye maple I had. Used brass to made pins to join two pieces of wood and epoxy filler with saw dust from woods used to hide the seam. Then shaped and sanded like mad. Had New Edge Sharpening clean up the knife edge as there were some small chips in it. I like how it turned out, also repurposed the remaking top piece of handle to make an awl handle.
  4. Another photo
  5. Finally finished the Rose knife, I feel it turned out nice. Was unable to get the blade separated from handle so for ferrule I utilized a twine wrap soaked in an epoxy resin the sanded up the grits to smooth. Had blade fixed by a Halifax local guy who sharpens with Japanese water stones, New Edge Sharpening, Peter Nowlan.
  6. Thanks to all, there is no wiggle to the blade at all, don't see any wedge. Raining tomorrow so looks like I have a weekend project.
  7. I recently purchased this small Rose round knife. Was looking for this size 3 1/4 " to 3 1/2" blade. Got it fairly cheap as it appears someone was using it to pry things open. I have a local sharpener who I figure can help me with the blade damage. I am looking to remove the handle to replace the ferrule and also to tidy the handle up. However I cannot find how it connects to the handle. There is no pin that I can see. Can someone with experience with Roses give me some idea of how to get it off?
  8. Thanks for the reply, the working surfaces came out very smooth, lots of hand sanding through grit levels. Good idea re the waxes, hadn't thought of that but it does make sense. I did put a beeswax/mineral oil coat on it and let it set over night, will likely just use the waxes from the edgings from now on. Peter
  9. I made a slicker/burnisher this date with a left over piece of Birdseye maple. Reading some of the forums by people that make the power burnisher I see they use a natural oiled wood that are superior to native woods. As I don't have access to those woods and am kinda proud of how this one turned out, Any suggestions as to how I should finish this one. I have access to danish oil, mineral oil, beeswax and a beeswax mineral oil combo. Any suggestions welcome
  10. KingX, so you go 8-6 oz less, why is that your preference, I have seen your blog spot and can see you are turning out nice work. Thanks for the reply. Peter
  11. Oltoot, thanks for the reply, why the heavier wt for shading is it because it needs to go deeper. New to this and want to start moving toward tooling. Peter
  12. For tooling, how do you determine what weight maul to use? Peter
  13. Art, My apologizes, need to proofread my messages obviously. Was just trying to get an idea of the knife maker on this one. I will give it up as a lesson learned. Thanks again for your reply. Peter
  14. Art, sorry my 2nd post might have lead to confusion, as I was indicating I had spelt Osmond wrong. Do you think this knife might be an Osmond, does not have any markings, and from what it can see in other photos, older Osmonds see to have pretty deep stamps? Thanks for your reply Peter
  15. Just re-read this post, before you think I cannot write a coherent sentence, I know it is Osmond, and last line should be good Cdn connections for vintage leather tools. Tiny keyboard and big fingers. Peter