LumpenDoodle2

Contributing Member
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    402
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About LumpenDoodle2

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1960

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.detectinggoodies.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Scotland
  • Interests
    Making interesting stuff, out of canvas, leather, fabric. Vacuum forming, hot foil, bookbinding, woodwork, and old Singer sewing machines.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Western re-enactment
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything

Recent Profile Visitors

3,342 profile views
  1. I did a bit of shopping on Amazon for some summer ciders, and they arrived in these cute little protective jackets. As soon as I saw them I just knew what their alternative use was. Here's a piccie for you
  2. Just to add my tuppence worth. For cutting thin strips of leather, I have used several methods, including the Tandy lace cutter. I finally plumped for the wooden strap cutter for everything. Personally, for thin, narrow (to very narrow) strips, I find it easier to control the cut, if I push the leather through the blade. I use my left hand to guide the leather.
  3. Makes more sense, otherwise it starts to get a bit silly. Can you guarantee the needles are made in America, with American steel. Difficult to guarantee an unimpeachable source nowadays.
  4. Invest in a good quality stitch ripper, it is a less damaging way to remove stitching than using a sharp knife. That just leaves removing the old lining from the belt proper. So far, gently teasing up enough lining to get a grip of, and gently pulling off, has worked for me. I have then used a knife to gently 'pare' or skive off any stuck lining. All done gently, and controlled. I agree, pictures will help here.
  5. The prices are pretty good. Gone are the days of proper old model shops (must be getting old).
  6. I ordered the solid brass rivets from EKP Supplies (www.ekpsupplies.com). New territory for me, so don't know if they will work, but you never know till you try.
  7. One or two? I'd be filling the time machine.
  8. Want one.......... want one NOW!............ (Just to add, that machine is taller than me)
  9. Thanks. I can guarantee your customers are chuffed with the results. Hope mine turn out even half as well. I've ordered some tiny brass rivets from a model egineering firm, so will give them a go, although the tiny nuts and bolts sound easier, and practical if the lining ever needs repaired/upgraded.
  10. Thanks for the reply, I've got to make new handles for both bags too. I had wondered about haunting the model shops for the pins, but never thought of metal rivets. Well done eith the repair. Did you have to redo the much of the bag itself? One of my bags just need a bit restitching, and a patch where the leather has been punctured. The other one is quite sad, but I thought I'd try glueing a second leather 'skin' on the inside. My idea is to preserve the original leather, but also make it useable, but if it deasn't work, I'll use the leather as a pattern, and make it from sctratch. I've already touched up the leather with dye, and a good coat of Aussie conditioner. Have you hit any other snags, other than the tags. Believe it or not, this is the better condition bag.
  11. I got hold of a couple of old leather bags in need of repair, and will have to remove the closing mechanism to sort out the stitching, and fit new lining. I managed to grind out the little pins holding everything together on one of them ok, but was wondering about what's best for refixing. The pins are little brass domed chaps, which have been peened down just like a copper rivet. I wondered if anyone knew of a source for these, or will any olld brass pin, once cut down, do the job.
  12. If you can't get your hands on a riveting hammer thingy, then I have a cunning plan. In the same position, I raked about the hubby's shed, and came across a thick cold chisel thing. A good thump, and it flattens the rivet enough to then finish off, by turning the chisel upside down, and flatten the rivet completely. Same principle, but cost me nothing. It worked well enough to have the cold chisel upgraded to my toolbox.
  13. Never tried it, but can't see any problem with the idea. Certainly, a rubber stamp, and archival ink would be cheaper and easier than a 3D stamp. Also, to be honest, there have been occasions where I haven't really had any space on a project to fit a 3D stamp.
  14. What? But I do my best stabbing, er, no, I mean stitching after my second bottle......hic!........... (I'm in churge here!!! I have opposable thumbs!!) Sadly, I have discovered that I am quite capable of stabbing myself while stone cold sober And regularly do.
  15. Neatsfoot oil will soften the leather, but then soft leather will lose definition, and shape by flexing. This will defeat the purpose of wet moulding a pancake holster. No doubt, in the not too distant future, the customer will complain about the look, and 'grip' of the gun in the holster. Tell him you've researched it, and the idea isn't practical, even if he is happy for you to still go ahead, just say no. Some things are just not worth the hassle. (Unless someone wiser comes along)