DrmCa

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About DrmCa

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dressmaker.ca

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    All things sewing.
    Metalworking.
    Woodworking.

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3,008 profile views
  1. Machine Recommendation

    Wholeheartedly agree that a cylinder machine is not everyone's ideal setup, but if you ever fixed zippers on boots and purses and made hats and purses etc, you'd appreciate them immensely. Yes, a cylinder bed machine in the same casting is around 2x the price of a flat bed, but when you need it and don't have it, it hurts. Boy am I glad I spent $950 Canadian dollars for 335!
  2. Machine Recommendation

    I would recommend staying with a Pfaff and looking at 335 in the old casting (yes, I own one, so I am not impartial). You gain cylinder arm and walking foot and can do lots more than on a flatbed. From reading this and other forums I gathered that Consew is good when it works, but when it does not, it's a RPITA. And strangely or not, I saw many more posts re trouble with Consew than with other machines. This was the reason I chose Pfaff at some point. Adler 67 is very similar, but has a drive belt where Pfaff has a drive shaft with gears and is somewhat more reliable. HTH
  3. Back stitch capability - how critical?

    For leather backstitch is not absolutely critical, but it is a huge time saver for textiles.
  4. Setting snaps

    As you mentioned portability, let me tell ya that mine is screwed onto a 14" of 2x4 which I carry around and attach to tabletops with 2x clamps.
  5. Deep Cleaning a Juki 563

    And I have vast experience degreasing with acetone. Dangers of acetone are highly overrated. Did you have any specific hazard on your mind to discuss? If you are concerned, you should probably google MSDS for acetone right now instead of spreading rumors.
  6. Deep Cleaning a Juki 563

    Someone used linseed or vegetable oil as a lubricant. Hate those types. You can try soaking in acetone, but it evaporates quickly so you need to insulate the small area you are soaking with aluminum foil, heavy PET bags or similar.
  7. Setting snaps

    I just bought my first twisty press made in Italy and that is the best sort of press money can get. The top lever sort of press is actually intended to be used on a foot operated stand. This is what I have - the green one on the right - and highly recommend:
  8. That explains my confusion then. Where I am from, linseed oil is literally brought to a boiling point and kept that for many hours or even days if it had high moisture content, then had manganese peroxide added, cooled and sold as BLO. And that stuff dries up after 8 hours. I literally used drums of that staff and painted square miles with it in pure form, and with oil based paints thinned with that BLO. If back then it was like you are describing, everyone would be in a severe state of shock, as everyone knew BLO dried up and solidified by the night fall if you painted in the morning. It did not have to be exactly linseed, but that was the most common ingredient, others being flax, sunflower and other oils. This bottle was the very first one I bought in North America, and without knowing that BLO is not really BLO, I assumed that the label was telling the truth where it said "let dry for 8 hours". It is going to be the last one as well, as I am going to order stuff overseas where they know what they are doing.
  9. First trade as a leather worker

    Nicely done! I'd wear the brown one any day and time.
  10. No need to go full Morgan Freeman on me, thanks, I'll make a new one anyway. Stay away from Recochem BLO , unless this is just an isolated incident with a bad batch, but I don't care anymore. BLO is not something you can generally get wrong - you either boil it, or you don't, there is no middle ground. Chiao!
  11. It was labeled, smelled and felt like boiled to me. Recochem are either crooks, or totally incompetent. Unfortunately this is typical for everything for DIY sold in Canada: they want you to waste time and money, end up ruining the project and having to call a contractor. If I will use any solvent, the cost will be more than making a brand new one and coating it properly.
  12. Made an awl from a patio umbrella shaft and a 1/4" mini chuck from the eBay, and coated it with Recochem boiled linseed oil. It said on the label to let dry for 8 hours, and from my past experience I knew it took about that long for boiled linseed oil to dry up. But this does not dry up at all. It is still sticky after several weeks in sunlight at a room temperature. I can imagine someone's horror and frustration if they coated their home reno project or furniture with this. Oh boy!
  13. Thanks DC, Is this machine for light or heavy textiles? Does it have its own feet, or takes standard tall shank feet like Juki DDL 553 would? And what needle system?
  14. Another strange Pfaff I came across, looks like 463, but has 2 strange thread guides on the top and the one on the front is way longer than what I am used to. What is special about this model? Also it looks like the stitch length dial is missing, or am I misunderstanding the purpose of the part right of "PFAFF"?
  15. adler spare parts?

    This can be TIG welded with steel or bronze rods. Find a good TIGer and it will be like new.