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  1. I've used both, Kydex is easier in that you can sew through it if you need to or want to for some reason, the only reason that I started doing it is that I was being asked if I did any that way by guys who have seen the adds by the companies that offer it. So I looked into doing it that way and it has helped in selling some belts. On some what I have done is rubber coat the tips of the metal or in the case of the one I am finishing up I added a small piece of leather to the ends of the metal. Over all it is not hard to add, in my case I just picked up a splitter so I can take some skirting split it put the strip of stainless in between the 2 pieces glue that down let the glue dry then glue in the other piece then sew it all together, would 1/4 leather do the same sure, but, to be competitive and some one asks for something ya do what ya gotta do. that's how Bill Gates got rich someone went to him and asked about an operating system he said sure then went out and figured how to do it and the rest is history.
  2. What hasn't been said or if it has I missed it, but you have to figure out your market, there are different factors in each even when it comes to how someone will be led to your website to look for an item they might be interested in, but you have to be able to charge what the market will bare. There has been mention about weekenders full time artisans on and on. Again what it will come down to is how you present yourself and how you click with the client. Its like looking at Ansel Adams and his work, Ansel was a much better darkroom person than he is given credit for, he is given high accolades for his photography but, his work was printed by him and he knew how to bring the best out in the dark room. I myself am retired and spend a great deal amount of time talking to people to promote my fledgling leather business with hopes that I will hit the right note that will reverberate with the potential customer. Here are 3 of my belts the one on each side sells for 60.00 the one in the middle sells for 75.00 these are all H/O leather 1/4 inch thick with a stainless steel liner. Do I wish I could get more sure but it is going to take time to get there, but it will come from sales outside of my immediate area.
  3. if your looking for a buffing like brush to use on the other side look up Pilgrim Shoe Machine they sell buffing brushes and machines as well as supplies. the owner seems to be a grumpy old dude and don't tell him that a brush is going to be run at high speed, he says that the brushes should not run above 7 to 9 hundred rpm or you'll burn the leather.
  4. I moved out of Cali 4 years ago but when I started to look for a machine I searched the L.A. area craigslist and found a machine. Your six maybe seven hours from L.A. so you could look there for a machine. And to answer your question and considering what it is you want to work on something like a Consew 206rb1-5 would work and is a good walking foot machine for lighter duty leather work.
  5. I had to read your post twice, its just me today and things not registering. I have tried doing the kydex and leather 2 different ways and neither one really worked all that well, but here is a thought. I think that in order for this to work you will have to get the leather split down as far a you can get it, like almost 1 oz. So my thought is, was, to do the stamping work and stamp as deep as you can on a regular piece then spilt it down as far as you can so that it will take to the contours of the holster you have to work with. Will it work, I don't know, I have a belt here that I am working on and it started of as saddle skirting, I did the stamp work that was ordered then I split the leather so that I could line it with stainless. The splitter had no affect on the stamp work as the leather was very stiff and didn't take the stamping very well anyway, also when I split it I had tested the splitter with a cut from the same strap then made a slight adjustment, but It spilt the top piece a little thinner than I would have liked but it all still worked out. Once you get the piece split down it may take to the contours, it will take some work, and you will have to work in small sections at a time, lay down small areas of glue, work the leather in that area, then more glue and so on till you get it all done. Not sure if this all made sense and if it will help and you will maybe need to find someone in your area to split the leather for you. And or you might find all that to much to try and do and back out, but the caveat there is 2 side it could lead to a lot more work like that or may not.
  6. They all look good, where did you obtain the memory foam at for the build? Thanks Ron
  7. I would be interested in a few as well if it helps drive the numbers up and the cost down.
  8. Thank You
  9. I have one of the plastic hammers er uh what everit is made out of, one of the yellow ones that I could use.
  10. well ok then
  11. I looked around a harbor freight for a set of automotive body work hammers I thought they sold them in a kit, the hammer in the kit has a very round and flat head on that I think might work perfect, I guess I will have to go back and look again.
  12. only from what I have read is that it very hazardous, has a low flashpoint, and if it were to catch fire it is hard to see the flame, If all of that is true, why not using something less dangerous and has a proven track record in use as a proven diluting substance for dyes.
  13. I haven't googled for the answer, and haven't looked for mold handcuffs, and the real deal for both styles if the pattern for the chain type and the hinged type would run anywhere from 60 to 100.00. So instead of buy a set of cuffs that I would be stuck with and never use again I thought I would ask here. I don't know should I post this over in the adult section really didn't think about that someone there might have something. Y'all let me know please. Thanks
  14. I decided to go out and sacrifice my foot as well, the photos show what I came up with and was not all that difficult doing, even without all the proper tools we were able to get it done. Now I just need to get the plate from Uwe and I'll be all set. thanks for the inspiration to get this done.
  15. well sort of I generally machine stitch but would like to flatten the thread, I watched a video today and the guy used what looked like some think plastic to smooth out his machine stitches and it looked good.