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  1. Wow you have a knurling tool as well for the lathe very nice it is one of those dreams that went loopty lew.
  2. oops forgot to say that the finish is one coat of Fiebings Roselen applied with a very lightly dampened Tandy sponge. I will keep working what is soaked in to the sponge till I think it is just right and it goes on both the outside and inside. I don't like sponges on a stick or brushes I found that the damp sponge works best.
  3. ok let me try and start at the top, the leather is W & C L really like the leather, as Jeff stated I know him from the board here and we have shared a few private messages and I have several of his patterns beyond that we don't know each other. As far as the edges I was asked one time some time ago when I posted my work on a site if I could show a picture of the edges, now I don't know what the person was looking for, either total thickness or quality?! We have to figure that the public is becoming more edumacated about what makes for quality stuff. My son keeps harping at me that Dad you need to get a makers stamp, I don't think I know who made it and the buyer knows who made because it was made for them specifically! if a customer chooses to show it off or keep it under cover it is up to them, I did deliver that holster today to the customer and he has been around firearms for oh 65 of his 73 years! He thought it was nice and it was the second one I have built for him, in fact he works for midsouth shooters supply if any of you know who they are, and could have picked any number of holsters they get in and at whole sale! the color is dark brown and took on a very deep color on the second coat, I also use Fiebings neatfoot compound oil I think it is called that I have found will take most colors and make then much deeper and darker. As for the belt slots it does not present a problem in fact it helps contribute to the cant of the holster and again I have not had any complaints to this point, as I noted I have and use some of Jeff's patterns but not this one but I did incorporate his sewing idea around the belt holes but could only make it work on the one side, I felt the other side had a close enough stitch line anyway, and this was sewed on a Cobra 4. thanks
  4. the front view and a side view of the edge work That I have been able to achieve. pile on the wagon and give It to me.
  5. I really like that, there was a lot of talk around the board here about some body setting up and making some, I had put in a request for one but it never came to fruition so if your up to another one hint hint, I'm in.
  6. That stamp can be a bear to work with if one goes wonky it kind of all goes caploowie. Nice job! what did you use for the lining?
  7. it is one of those dinosaur stamps from way over yondure, well I wanted to change the process to see if I would get more definition in the leather when molding. I would usually dye everything before gluing and sewing but wasn't happy with the definition, and the reason for doing it that way was that if it was dyed I wouldn't have to worry if I got a little glue on the leather, so now I just have to be a little more careful, but all I use is 8/9 oz leather when doing the holsters. So I wanted to try doing everything just the opposite and see what the def would be like, I also wet the leather for a little longer than usual. When it came out of the vacuum press it was still fairly wet and I applied a coat of dark brown and it looked like it was going to stay that way, but it didn't, but it only took another coat to get it to the darkness that you see here. the other thing I did when it came out of the press was to work right away on the edges and I must say that this holster has some of the nicest I have done and I have beat myself up trying to get them better with every process written, it was just a weak point for me, but these came out spot on. I have another holster that the glue is drying on now then will sew up tomorrow and will repeat the process again, it seams like everyday is still a learning curve but the holsters keep getting better and as long as my hands hold up I'll be good, I am trying to get a bunch of stuff knocked out before next month as I am scheduled for a total knee replacement, so that is going to have me down for a little while with that. hope this makes sense I went back and added a few thoughts.
  8. I did try another method today but would like to know If you sew them tight how do you get the rod in after the fact. I noticed that in order for them to stay it has to be a tight stitch line.
  9. I just switched to a different Arthritis med and it makes my hands feel better, but they still don't work 100 % when it comes to stamping so haven't done a lot, but I bought this one and been wanting to use it. I also changed my working process a little with this one, I dyed it right after wet molding so it was still very damp from the water but took the dye real well.
  10. ya I was having a hard time sewing in close to the clip bar and not hit it with the needle, I did hit it in one area and ruined a needle.
  11. I have some exotic that I thought I would use for a couple of these card holder money clips, I hadn't done one that I liked so and I thought I would give it a go, there's 2 in regular veg tan and 2 in two different color exotics that I have.
  12. nice job I really like that, but if you would please take one more photo of how the wrap around strap attaches. Thanks
  13. Are you sure you don't want to just sell them a sewn together holster that they can then dye their favorite color and sell, incase they aren't proficient at sewing? If everyone had a laser it would simplify life, there would be no need to use a sharp knife and cut perfectly along a line that has been drawn on the leather. But I digress you must have studied your market needs and what will sell in the market you wish to reach, sort of like a point of equilibrium!? soap is bad it dries out the skin and makes it dry and flaking like, soap is no Bueno.