OLDNSLOW

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About OLDNSLOW

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    Leatherworker
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    belt and holster making
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  1. stamps

    I sent an email yesterday with my IPhone asking for a catalog as well but in the event it got lost in the shuffle would you please send one to ronpadilla1@hotmail.com Thank you very much.
  2. I am not really adding anything here but, it is a horizontal mag pouch if that does help any and Blackhawk and another company sells them on amazon for like 25 bucks. I was going to buy one to dissect it but never did.
  3. Eric, did you ask any in depth questions on the printer? I had an Epson 7200 many years ago that use pigment dyes, it would print on canvas but don't know if it would do 8oz leather.
  4. There has to be a method to the madness, I have not seen any of Savoy holsters in person but it seems like it might be a similar fashion, and if that is the case maybe a printer will be in more holster makers shops in the near future. Maybe something could be looked researched and shared with the group!!!
  5. I think as long as you keep the bottle closed it will prolong the life of the oil, I have bought some from a local guy who gets it in 55 gallon containers and it is ok. Now what I realized here lately is that there is 2 different types so to speak of Neats foot oil, one is the oil the other I think is called neats foot oil compound, the compound I found out gives the leather a very nice buttery look after 2 light coats.
  6. yup what I thought, all kimbers are built on the 1911 like frame from subcompact up to full size, so just figure out the size then the pancakes you guys have should work for the builder. Ron Padilla
  7. just need to figure out if that is a full size, mid size, compact, or subcompact 1911 frame then use that holster. lemme check what it crosses over to and i'll be right back.
  8. heck isn't that a basic pancake for a 1911 type gun all the Kimber's I thought are basically a 1911?
  9. what thickness? and how long do you wet it for?
  10. there is nothing wrong with the belly specially if a guy has a bunch of cash it'll stretch out to carry it and when its all gone it'll pull back in, but on the serious side it is because of the stretching that workers wont use it, except maybe a few saddle makers as there is a few spots where the leather needs to stretch when making a saddle. but when you dye the belly section it will harden up like any other leather because you have drawn out more oils from it, so if you don't over oil after dyeing it might not return to a soft mushy state. That's my take on it anyway and I am gonna stick to it.
  11. the odor of fresh leather is almost better then your wife when she's fresh out of the shower, it aint something you want to admit to, that could lead to death call.
  12. a photo would help in proposing an answer for you and try and make it a close up. What you could try is some saddle soap and water on the area that is showing the dirt then once dry you could try and reapply the super sheen and it might fill in the scratches.
  13. If you want the inside smooth you can take gum trag to it and that will smooth out the leather and also act as a blocker when you go to dye the outside.
  14. if it is for burnishing the edges anything up 1700 rpm is good I wouldn't go much faster than that.
  15. like mentioned above if you take some gum trag and slick it down real good then seal with what ever you use on the front side you shouldn't have any problem at all.