fredk

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About fredk

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    Male
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    Northern Ireland, UK

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  • Interested in learning about
    anything to improve my work
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  1. As JMcC says; buff after the dye has dried. Use a pale coloured cloth and buff, buff, buff. When you think you've done buffing, buff some more. Keep turning the cloth to a clean part so you can see when its not taking any more dye off. Depending on your work and home area let the item dry for at least a few hours or overnight. If it feels cold to the touch its still drying; when its room temperature its dry. Now you can put on that thinned resolene. Patience is needed in finishing an item to top quality standard
  2. ooops, for dipping, the resolene should be diluted as well, not straight from the bottle
  3. Alternates to Leather

    Enough already Back to your corners you two Please
  4. Buffing wont remove the line marks. Forget the Resolene's own instructions. Dilute Resolene 1:1 with water [or even 2 water :1 resolene] and apply using a slightly damp sponge. Put it on wet and wipe in a circular motion until its covered and getting into the leather. A couple or three coats put on this way with time to dry between them. Or if you can, dip coat; put the resolene in a clean container like an oven tray and dip the leather item into the bath, hang up to drip and dry
  5. Bag terminology help?

    Go to a hobby shop which caters to R/C or plastic kit modellers. They usually keep sheets of plastic [aka plasticard] Available in polystyrene or ABS etcetera. Thickness is usually measured in thou of an inch, eg 10 thou, 20 thou, 30 thou, 40 thou. 40 thou = 1mm approx. Sheets are commonly A4 size and about $1 a sheet. It comes in white, black, clear and sometimes other colours. A sheet weighs just a few grams 30 thou [three-quarters of a mm] should be thick enough. Use a contact adhesive to stick to bag leather, then cover it all with a pigskin lining For mildly firm re-enforcing I just use compressed cardboard - the type which is used in the 'Do not bend' postal envelopes. Cardboard has been used like this for about 100 years. I've even used the thinner card from cereal boxes on small projects
  6. What bikermutt says. To add, I use a heavy duty stapler [staple gun?] to 'tack' the leather to the support wood. If you do it carefully the holes made by the tack/staples will be your stitching holes in that top piece
  7. Alternates to Leather

    I'll try to tell you of what I've found; nothing artificial acts like leather. I've used various faux leather materials. None have had any trade name on them; they've come from top material suppliers and fabrics outlets. Whilst ok for covering bus seats, or door cards and the like, which have been glued and sometimes tacked in place when it comes to sewing they can't take stitches without them ripping out. Leather, like fabric, has fibres which hold stitches, faux leather is just a sheet of plastic, no fibres. Some like Leathercloth have a fabric on the rear to help with stitching but I've found that the stitching still rips the plastic. I've bought the cheap Chinese made wallets made of faux leather just to see what they do. Mostly the parts are heat welded together and the 'stitches' are a heat imprint, not actual thread. A few years ago I had woman bring an expensive leather handbag to me for repair; it cost her about $250 from a good named store. The stitching at certain points was ripping out. I took a snipping of the bag material and put a flame to it, it burnt like plastic, the bag was not leather at all. After 6 months use the bag was near useless. A chap in my history-presentation society tried to under-cut me by making draw-string money bags of faux leather; 'just as good but half the price' he said. It cost him dearly. The bags were simply two same sized pieces sewn together with a lace thong going thru holes in the top edge to draw the bag closed. Within a short time of use the top holes were ripping thru and the stitching ripping out. He had to repay the buyers their money plus he was out the cost of materials and the time. My leather bags are still being used 18 years on. What I'm trying to tell you is that any of these faux leathers are not suitable for likes of bags; they wont last. There are many faux leather bags for sale but they are designed for short term use and then throw away when they start to rip. Go to any thrift store/charity shop [in UK] and find out how many faux leather bags they are given which they have to dump because of damage. If you still want to use faux leather; make a bag out of heavy weight material like cotton duck and use the faux leather as panel accents on it, where it wont be under stress Just an opinion and thoughts on it.
  8. Medieval Money Pouch

    You've not got an 'arms race' on your hands; Son gets nice knife sheath Daughter wants something else to up the one-man-ship then son wants something more to up the game it can be a happy cycle of events, but be prepared for making lots of things for ever-more just joking btw
  9. Piercing tools and techniques

    I'd use various sizes of hole punch to remove most of the leather then use a scalpel to trim the edges; a E11 and 12 blade
  10. Yes, and yes; I use a neetsfoot oil/virgin olive oil/bees' wax mix rubbed into both sides after dyeing
  11. Medieval Money Pouch

    Nicely done Yup, dads can make anything!
  12. Bag terminology help?

    A thought; dunno if this would work out 1 piece for the outside, 4 triangular gussets - right angle shape, 2 inner pieces, 2 zips Sew each inner piece to two of the gussets, along the long straight back, sewn in by about 10 mm. Sew two gussets and panel to the outside part after sewing zips along top edge of inner panel and outside, this x 2. Fold the outside sides up to meet, where the triangular gussets meet, overlap and sew together; thats what the 10mm excess was left for - this forms a 10 mm pocket, wide enough for most phones A tab and loop with a D fitting can be sewn to that gusset joint. A strap using lobster clips could be used. It will need careful measuring; the base of your triangles x 2 plus approx 10mm or what ever you want the centre to be
  13. Letter Stamping Tips?

    I bought a press for stamping, buts it not a permanent fixture yet, not till I build a new work bench. In the meantime, for one or a few stampings its quicker to just set up the wood bar and whack the stamp with a mallet What is hexnhit?
  14. Cleaning fabric lining of leather purse

    I'd not worry about damaging the leather. It'll be robust enough. Can you turn the bag inside-out?. If so, do that and wash the lining under running water; mildly warm water, no more than comfortable hand warm - not hot, the leather won't like hot. Use a mild fabric or dish washing soap, either liquid or powder to help clean the fabric. Just keep the running water going to keep flushing it. Once the water is running clear, return the bag to right way, pack with clean kitchen paper towel and place in a mildly warm area where plenty of air can circulate. Change the paper as often as needed to absorb the interior water. When you think the interior is dry; its not, thats just the beginning of the end. It'll take another week for it to fully dry out. When the paper towels come out nearly dry, put no more in, allow air to circulate into the interior; at this point you should be able to turn the bag inside-out again to speed up the drying of the lining and inside of the leather. Do NOT try rushing the drying out; thats what ruins a recovery. It takes time, patience and care. Only after this drying out period apply the leather conditioner. Applying it too early will lock moisture into the leather and force it to dry out via the lining which will cause that to either go mouldy or rot, or both
  15. Brass Drilled Solid Rivet

    If its anodised it should be ok but raw aluminium quickly corrodes blue in leather giving a blue black stain which leeches outwards from the fixing point