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About fredk

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    Northern Ireland, UK

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    anything to improve my work
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  1. The "Slant" to Saddle Stitching (??)

    Sometimes I do, or a beer, or fruit juice. I make my own meade; I have red and white, I drink it when and with what I like
  2. The "Slant" to Saddle Stitching (??)

    Its what I call the 'Kings New Clothes' symptom. It has to be xxxxx because 'everyone' says it has to be. Like drinking white wine only with fish meals; I'll drink white wine whenever I please. Learn to never listen to those people who try to dictate 'rules'. There are certain ways of doing things because that way has worked out best/more efficient, but they are not the 'rules' When all is said and done, the stitches can be zig-zag, straight, herringbone, baseball, done by hand, foot or machine, as long as they are strong and fit for purpose is all that matters
  3. Plz, identify these guys

    Thats exactly what they are
  4. Snap problem

    Nice to see a result
  5. Question about pricing

    just add up the square inches of each piece. Add a few more square inches for bits you cut off. Divide that total by 144 for your square footage eg; you do a wallet 9 inches by 4 inches = 36 sq" for the outside, x 2 for the inside as well = 72 sq ". Four card pockets, each about 4 in x 3 in = 4 x 12sq" = 48sq". . . . . 48 + 72 = 120 sq" .....1 sqft =144 sq" . . . . . 120/144 = 0.833 bar, or about 0.85 of a square foot 0.85 sq ft was used but the parts were cut from a larger piece, so I'd round that up to a full 1 sq ft.
  6. Advice on cutting a side up

    5 oz - 2mm approx. You'll need to double that up for a decent belt. I don't use any thinner than 3.5mm for belts. We use thinner belts than our US chums as we have no requirement to carry heavy items on our belts. Our belts merely serve to hold our trousers up
  7. Advice on cutting a side up

    29 ft is kinda average for a side in the UK. We have big cows
  8. Advice on cutting a side up

    Not really; depends on just how stretchy it is. Try pulling it in different directions. It'll stretch most going away from the back bone. The leather will stiffen up a wee bit as you work it. I find belly is decent for womens' bags, as they try to cram the whole house hold into it. yup, they are. choose carefully, buy wisely, but they are an investment, just like a good knife. But try here too; Via that library you can download most of Al's books - at a price of course, but often cheaper than a paper copy
  9. Advice on cutting a side up

    Generally the thickest and stiffest part is along the back bone, it gets more stretchy the closer you get to the belly. Belts from the back, purses & book covers from the middle, light weight occasional bags from the belly, but as there is no hard line from one area to another a piece has to be judged on its own merits I never cut a side up. I cut a number of belt strips from it and then just use it as required. I'm not sure but I bet Al S said something in one of his books
  10. How do I properly use embossing plates?

    The largest is about 3.25 by 3.6 inches - about 82 x 92mm
  11. How do I properly use embossing plates?

    May be this helps. maybe not. I use the Tandy press - It is about 1.25 T pressure. Whilst is good for single letters using the adaptors, the ram bar has a small cross section/area. I have several embossing plates bigger than this. I put a 3mm steel plate between the embossing plate and the ram bar which has the wider letter adaptor fitted. I press the embossing plate centrally first, then I move the leather around carefully doing the outer edges of the embossing plate; its usually - top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right, centre left, centre right. As long as the embossing plate doesn't move out of register on the leather this gives me a pretty good even impression. My embossing plates are made of brass and of magnesium. I've recently purchased a couple of those from Bunkhouse, but not yet used them. Maybe in December. . . . Bunkhouse recommends a plate of steel over the resin plate and they supply a piece of hard rubber to go under the leather whilst pressing.
  12. Coffee Cup Coaster for a Friend

    The stamping and colour is nicely done However; I find those bright rivets holding the name tags on very intrusive. If you really needed to rivet them on I would have used a dark coloured rivet with a much smaller head
  13. Snap problem

    I've found that many conchos have slightly different screw threads but generally they are about M3. I've bought some of these [link below] as spares for conchos. Some they fit and some they don't, even ones from the same batch! Generally for the ones these screws do not screw into its they are touch too small so I screw them in with some two-part epoxy glue in the concho screw thread hole, or with some gap filling superglue gel. They ain't goin nowheres after that! Next purchase for me is an M3 screw tap Search thru sellers like the one in the link and you'll find quite a range of M3 screw bolts
  14. The "Slant" to Saddle Stitching (??)

    The angle of the hole; in hand stitching the hole is made with a diamond shaped awl blade or triangular needle. If you align the points of the diamond on each hole, when you pull the thread tight, it will cut thru the leather, thus the holes are made at an angle so the flat faces of the diamond are nearest each other, this gives the leather between stitches greater strength. Then when you sew each thread should go in and wrap around that stronger part.
  15. St. Louis, Missouri ? From what I remember BM leather is about 1.25mm thick, quite stiff, some parts are backed with a thin layer of foam stuck on. I'll be down at my son's place either Wednesday late or Thursday and I'll look at his stock of BMW interiors, to see just what that leather is like. Regular upholstery leather will be about the right thickness but too flexible in comparison, perhaps also too stretchy. Motorcycle, lightweight leather, for 'leathers' over suits might be what you need. Although meant for clothing it is much stiffer than clothing cowhide.