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About fredk

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  1. Look at the title of this thread; under it you'll see four greyed arrows with words in them. Those are the tags. AFAI can see only the thread starter can add tags on this forum. By using those 'tags' anyone searching for Tandy eco-flo dye will get this thread in their search return as well as any other using those words
  2. Water based final finishes should be OK. They are usually acrylic. The water is just the carrier for the acrylic resins. Once the acrylic has dried it cannot be disolved in water again. To remove it the usual fluid is an alcohol, eg IPA, methylated spirits, vodka I use beeswax/neetsfoot oil mix to feed leather but it will wash out*. Resolene, which I also use: on sportsmans bags, wont wash out. When using the Resolene I thin it 1:1 or 1[R]:2[W] with water and apply multiple coats using a children's art brush or sponges - just whichever I have handy or can find. I dip coat sometimes on things that go into my tray, bags ain't so easy so they get it by brush/sponge * Just after I started leather working several years ago I made a bonnet [hood] hold down strap for my vintage racing car. I used beeswax/neetsfoot mix on it. My vintage car doesn't get used much but I found I had to give it more beeswax/neetsfoot after just a few months. A similar strap I made for the 'boot' [trunk] at a later time got Resolened, after 7 years it now needs replaced as its showing its age
  3. Looks like the harness for a donkey to carry peat baskets on each side, or perhaps just for harnessing a donkey to a trap
  4. go onto ebay; you can get bars which have a concave dome on the end for for setting domed rivets. Make sure its the right size for the rivet you want to use; bigger is ok but not smaller eg;
  5. I would prefer solvent based glue for laminate For leather on natural wood I've used regular PVA [water based] and Evostik Contact [solvent based] glues I've found that the Evostick Contact, whilst giving a superior bond, can leech through thin veg tan leather, but no problem with chrome tanned
  6. The main thing you've left out is where you are located
  7. I can only see the thumbnail sized picture. Resolution is not good for enlarging. Thus I can't see any of the detail to make any comment about the band
  8. well thats me out voted but wat da ya expect - I'm colourblind!
  9. find some images, maybe free ones, on line and print out to size on card stock
  10. I think the pocket needs to be deeper/longer, to bring more of the mag lower
  11. I use both methods. I now only use double-head rivets. Never yet had a problem with them and some have been put to great trial. That chaps statement don't make sense; one head is made as part of the base and is soild with it and the other head is hammered on. It doesn't matter if its single or double headed we can't see how well the head is affixed. As for strength; I attach the guige strap to battle-ready shields with double head ready rivets. I've done loads of shields and not one rivet has failed. The shields, weighing about 15lbs, hang by the guige, and get flung around by it.
  12. Very different I like 'em
  13. But are they not using chrome-tanned leather? and not veg tanned?
  14. no pic here, but in his other posting of this same question there is a pikky