fredk

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About fredk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    medieval history, leatherwork, woodwork, cooking, vintage car racing, model making.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    medieval repro, bags, belts, hats, games
  • Interested in learning about
    anything to improve my work
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  1. Also; when hitting with a hammer/mallet, don't just rely on the straight down impression. Tip the stamp to the top, hit again, tip to right, hit, tip to left, hit, tip to bottom and hit again. Takes care to do it so the stamp doesn't move and give you a 'ghost' image. Strike - North pole, then North, East, West and South.
  2. Beautiful to see, but not to be messed with. The pups are wise
  3. A tip; if you are using regular printing paper, you can make it semi translucent and waterproof by giving it a good coating of beeswax/neetsfoot oil mixture
  4. Chemically smells are retained and carried by oils. You need to replace the oils in that leather. If its veg tanned try giving a really good fresh dose of neetsfoot oil, to push out and replace the old oils. Then hang it up in a warm airy place to let the neetsfoot oil evapoarate out a bit. If the smell is really bad you may need to do this again
  5. interesting I must look out for this
  6. Did you case [wet] all the leather before doing the stamping? Did you let it dry completely [or near completely] and evenly all over before dyeing? If I see a part of cased leather drying faster than the rest I redampen it with a slightly wet sponge to make sure it all dries at the same rate, evenly.
  7. Maybe the original is Wookiee hide?
  8. I would use 1 to 1.5 mm upholstery leather for this. Sewing; place two shaped parts grain to grain, sew edges with a saddle stich, turn inside out, pad out with wadding. Fold over and glue the strap lengths Can't see signs of stiching around that bit on the front. For that I'd cut out the shape on the main piece and glue the insert in place on the inside, pad it out a bit with wadding, then glue a thin lining leather, eg pigskin, over that wadding and the insert part. Assemble as above. If the original was leather and the insert on the front was sewn; I suppose it was done by cutting out the area, leaving an edge to fold inwards, the insert and welt were sewn to that edge [grain to grain], folding the sewn part against the inside of the front panel. That would keep the stiching hidden
  9. Historically; sword scabbards were not made of wood and covered in leather, very few were, most were just thick leather From studying actual scabbards for both swords and daggers found in London and Dublin digs there can been seen evidence that a scabbard/sheath was folded over, sewn with flesh to flesh joint then put on the blade and twisted round until the seam was along the back centre of the blade; thus no need for welts. The sewn seam was trimmed down and sometimes hammered flatter. I refer you to archeology dig records publications from the Museum of London and National Museum of Dublin A cardboard or thick paper pattern is a must for this project I think.
  10. Another vote for LePrevo. I've been using them for nearly 17 years now. Never a glitch.
  11. I've only ever needed to cover the base of a snap a couple of times. On those I glued the head of a rivet onto the base with the wee short stemmy bit fitting tightly into the centre hole of the snap's base
  12. How about a bobbin box, like this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIXES-25-Bobbins-Spool-Storage-Case-Box-/391409322411?hash=item5b21d049ab:g:a40AAOSwLnBX2q6g
  13. A pencil, 2 or 4 B
  14. You don't need to be a whiz at wood work to make your own molds. Get some cuts of MDF [medium density fibreboard] from a DiY place and use a heavy duty knife [like a Stanley Utility knife] and rough sand paper to cut and shape, Then smoother sand paper to even out the curves. Then a few coats of quick drying varnish to seal it from the damp. You can shape up a block for a bag in about half-an-hour MDF is available in thickness ranging from 1mm to 25mm so even if you can't find the excact thickness you want/need/like layers can be glued to gether to make it up. You can even glue thin shaped bits on to the main block to raise portions during the molding
  15. oooh yes, didn't feel like pacing it out today