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About fredk

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  • Location
    Northern Ireland, UK

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    bags, bonnets, boards, belts
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    google search

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  1. best punching board for leather

    I got a timber yard to cut me 3" lengths of 2x2, I then glued them side to side to make a punching block using the end grain of the blocks as the top surface. The advantages are; 1. You don't take a chunk of wood or rubber out of the surface. 2. punching on the side of wood the wood compresses either making it harder to cut a clean hole or giving you a distorted one, but not with this 3. You need to change your punching surface frequently but not with this. 4. I've found my punches stay sharper longer The black marks are my alignment marks; so that no two blocks have the end grain pattern running in the same direction. I've used this block for many years. The punches do leave circular ring marks in the end grain but have never removed any wood. This cost me just a few ££ to make
  2. I'll be making to the pattern I suggested but it'll be fancy cos I'll do it as a holster for my new cell phone Off to sort out the leather now. . . . .
  3. Question; the collar I've circled is spring loaded. When I press it the shaft for the foot-raising lever raises up. For Why?
  4. Tooling Weighted Lines

    Even tho the OP has cut his lines he can use those to guide a groover. A stitching groover would do the job too
  5. Tooling Weighted Lines

    I would use a groover to cut a, er. . . groove, rather than a cut line. I use woodcarver's V and U chisels for cutting certain grooves. I also sometimes, rarely, use the Tandy V gouge :
  6. Maybe use a slit and a big button or wood toggle - easier for wee hands. . . . and quicker cos yer cowboy haz gotta get to his ammo quick afore he's a deader edit; PS. I think I'll knock one up tonite or tomorrow, jus cos I wanna.
  7. I forgive you This time
  8. Thanks. I believe I have both roller and teflon feet which should fit this. I'll check later that I do still have them and that they fit. They were bought for the 15K
  9. Up to you how far you wanna go; I'd make a simple one. One big back piece which includes the front flap. A bit of a welt and one front piece. The flap part of the back comes over the top and is held closed by a Sam Brown stud. One wide-ish bit on the back for the belt to slip thru. The belt loop can be riveted on. Using soft leather for the front it'll stretch enough to hold a whole bunch of 8 round caps.
  10. Well no decent cowboy is gonna go around with only 8 shots. He's gonna need a lot more for those gunfights. Have you any conchos? put a star one on the pouch?
  11. Got it. It was seized up a bit tho. A bit of brute force and oiling got the stop plate moving. Moves real smooth now. Did a little bit-by-bit dismantling and oiling - yup I'm using the proper oil. Had a stiff spot in the mechanism. Turned out to be mostly a big divot of fluff between the teeth bit and the case. As the teeth moved back they jammed a bit by the fluff. Once cleared and all oiled its moving like Fred Astaire on an ice rink The plastic handle for the handcrank was in the accessory box. Its all ok, but I might change the handle to a wooden one. The shaft and release parts of the bobbin winder were slightly seized up. Once again, oiled and worked and its working fine. I thought of leaving it off but then there is a big ugly gap there. Come 'ere, I'll tell ye a funny one. I said there was no serial number. There is. On the main casting, just under the front lip. Each time I'd opened it up to see under I'd been putting one of my hands right over the serial number plate! big Doh!
  12. umm, are ya gonna make an ammo pouch for them 8 shot cartyriges?
  13. Lucky nephew with an Unc who just made him a real cowboy gun holster. He'll be all set up to catch those dastardly piggy-bank robbers
  14. Oval buckle instructions

    To cover the bases as it were; the belt strap just folds around that bar and the hook just hooks into the holes on the other end of the belt