• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About fredk

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northern Ireland, UK

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    anything to improve my work
  • How did you find
    google search

Recent Profile Visitors

1,622 profile views
  1. Battery bag

    and skive the long edges and one end of the gusset piece and the corresponding length of the main piece. Make the bottom corners rounded, not too much, just a bit to ease the the front/bottom/back piece around without any tight corners I like to make my gussets longer than needed, then skive and fold over the top end; give a neat finish
  2. whatever you have for me fredk it would be appreciated.


    my address is


    Dale Prezgay

    4800 crimson glory lane

    Las Vegas, nv. 89130

    702 768 3335




  3. Stamps for Scouts

    I have a few duplicate Tandy 3D stamps. Can't just remember what they are. Can I send them on to you? Might have a few other odd duplicate tools as well
  4. Anyone else do this?

    I'll not be doing that; I prefer to keep my blades covered up where they don't need to be for cutting
  5. Maul. Doubts with the purchase

    you can make a maul out of old [uk] milk jugs, ie hdpe its easy; one of my 'winter' projects
  6. Medieval Helmet pattern help

    That looks just grand so it does.
  7. How to post pictures?

    I use a photo hosting site. I resize my photos to under 800 x 600 pixels in a very basic photograph program; save them to the photo-host site, then copy and paste into the forum Some photo-hosting sites such as smugmug allow you to choose the smaller size there before copying
  8. Medieval Helmet pattern help

    The helmet in the above photo may or may not have actually existed. Its more of a fantasy medieval helmet. I have never seen one like it in any of my research books. This leads to; make yours like it but don't slavishly copy it. Just do the sides staight down*, but bring it down past your ears. As for the Tandy one; Helms/Helmets were made in hundred of ways, it depended on the skill of the armourer and the blacksmith who had to mend it. I've seen helms made by riveting pieces together, joining by hammer welding and even the remains of a Great Helm which had been cast in one piece * if you really want to do a tapered side; think of a hot-cup holder - its long sides are curved so that when the ends are joined the top and bottom long sides are parallel. Take piece of card, draw a line, a curved line. Make this central line the length I told you, make the top line about 4 inches away about 1.5 inches longer, make the bottom line about 4 inches away 1 inch less. Cut this strip out of thin card. You need to cut it so it curves. Try this against your head and by trial-and-error you'll find the right curve
  9. background idea

    Very artistic, very eye catching thank you for sharing that
  10. Medieval Helmet pattern help

    Yes, each helm/helmet needs its own suspension inside. You could make yourself an 'arming cap' with the padding attached to it. Then each helm won't need the padding inside A basic 'arming cap' is dead easy to make up in leather. Just three pieces of leather sewn together.
  11. Medieval Helmet pattern help

    1. Tandy does a pattern for a Great helm. With care it can be adjusted to make the face pot helm above, 2. History lesson; A; Helm padding was attached to the wearers arming cap or maille coif. It was no less than 2 inches [5 cm] thick. Modern repro are about 3/4 inch [2 cm] thick. The padding was a linen tube stuffed with sheeps wool and/or straw. This was tied or sewn to the cap or coife at about upper brow level B. The suspension system in medieval times was as used now; a strip of leather sewn or riveted round the inside of the helm, at about high brow level. Then six/eight/ten/twelve straps of leather or heavy cord attached to this crossed from one side, thru the centre to the other side. 3 of these gives 6, 4 gives 8 etcetera. Sometimes these straps, or a few of them at right angles went through a centre leather disc. On a WW2 helmet I have adjustment of the cords is just by untying a couple of cords, retying at a different length and pushing the central disc back into the centre. On a medieval helm I inspected it looked like there was no adjustment provsion. Possibly it was made exactly for one head or adjustment was through the amount of padding at the top of the head. The chin strap attaches to the inner leather strap as well. Adjustment of the strapping not only adjusts how high or low the helm sits on the head but it can bias the sit to front or rear or to either side. 3. Having worn different styles of medieval helm in anger I would suggest that you have an absolute minimum of 1.5 inches padding at the sides and rear and 2.5 inches minimum at the front. You will not be wearing a leather helm to fight in so its not for protection, but the padding keeps the helm away from your ears and nose. You could attach the padding to the inner support strap running around the inside. Make it thick and it'll crush down to a tight supportive fit. 4. If your head circumference is 58.4cm then it has an average of 9.3 cm radius; add 4cm average for padding = 13.3 r = 83.5cm [32.9 inches] circumference. Note; the human head is not a perfect circle. Depending on your genetic origins in might be an egg shape, flatish at the rear, flatish at the front, etcetera 5. For hat making I use the polystyrene heads hairdressers use for wigs. Available in most normal sizes, both male and female. If you shop around you can get them for less than $5 and are really useful
  12. Contact Le Prevo in Newcastle and ask them. They just might know something
  13. newbie leatherworker in UK - accessories and such

    Hi, You'll find lots of good stuff on here and get good advice from friendly [mostly] [ok, I jest] folk with loads of experience Whereabouts are you located?
  14. Cow Skull Drink rest

    Very nicely done
  15. Mop & Glo finish question

    Its similar but not quite the same. Our version of 'Pledge with Future Shine', formerly called Future or Kleer is as thin as water. Its is really like painting with water. I have used it on a couple of stiff knife sheaths. Only to lock some hand painted designs the colours of which I found would run with Resolene put on them. On one I put two coats, on another I used three. I would not go any more than that. None of the sheaths have shown any sign of varnish cracking or crazing I've used it a couple of times on flexible items, but only one coat. No adverse affects. All applications were by broad brush