spotty

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  1. Definately not threading in that part of the bobbin case. After much further tweaking it now appears to be adequately zig zagging. I can adjust the width and length and the tensions look reasonably consistent. I'll continue to continue to tweak but it looks acceptable for the most part. I did nothing different except for clean every part with compressed air and wipe clean the tension disks.
  2. Cleaning up the entire thread path and cleaning between the tension disks did help - although its still not perfect its much better. The check spring still seems quite stiff in comparison to my consew 290 machine. So I'm not sure if there is much adjustment that can be done with regard to the checkspring or if that would make much of a difference. I'm going to sew a whole load more material to determine how consistent the machine is - by only adjusting stitch width and length and seeing how consistent the stitches are.
  3. Thread is good - occurs on whatever E-Thread I run through the machine. Thread is feeding straight through the guides on thread stand. Thread seems to run fairly straight. (If I use the thread in the Consew 206 it works with zero problems and the problem occurs on different spools and bobbins) No material in tension disks - but removed and cleaned anyway. No gouges in tension disk. It does go correctly around check spring but not really much movement in spring when sewing. But spring does seem to be fairly stiff (Probably more so than on the 290 machine) Tension on bottom thread (bobbin) seems pretty consistent. I'll check under the bobbin spring. No protruding threads from the bobbbin. I can try another bobbin to see if that makes makes difference. I will try a few more things tommorrow.
  4. The following shows some examples. I'd retimed the machine and then started with some straight stitching. From left to right I would increase the tension a bit. Using contrasting threads - red on the top, white on the bobbin. Bottom stitching never looks particularly straight - till I got something that looks OK. (its not dropping stitches). Then without adjusting tension I start doing some zig zags. Now with all the zigzag I never adjust the tension further I'm simply adjusting the stitch length and width and then I'm seeing somewhat of the opposite to what I was seeing before - ie. the top side starts looking wonky but the bottom side looks reasonable. I checked the thread path was correct.
  5. The following shows some examples. I'd retimed the machine and then started with some straight stitching. From left to right I would increase the tension a bit. Using contrasting threads - red on the top, white on the bobbin. Bottom stitching never looks particularly straight - till I got something that looks OK. (its not dropping stitches). Then without adjusting tension I start doing some zig zags. Now with all the zigzag I never adjust the tension further I'm simply adjusting the stitch length and width and then I'm seeing somewhat of the opposite to what I was seeing before - ie. the top side starts looking wonky but the bottom side looks reasonable. I checked the thread path was correct. Pics https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtNFQZ6-n-pbkp0Di6bm-zJN5qXkvg https://1drv.ms/i/s!AtNFQZ6-n-pbkp0EDrSg98ErX35mSw This machine is just frustrating getting it to sew consistently. More so than the other machines I use.
  6. i have a consew 199 and am having tremendous problems getting the machine to work reliably. When sewing zigzag the top side looks ok but the underside looks like crap. I've tried adjusting the tensions on the top and bottom bobbin numerous times and it may work for a short time and then start looking like crap again while sewing the same materials. I've checked the thread path is correct and clean and re-timed the hook, but it just seems to drift and I'm rather frustrated as to what to and where to start looking to get this machine working reliably. Any suggestions for a plan of action.
  7. Size 27 needles for 132k6

    I'll give them a call and see if they have any.
  8. Size 27 needles for 132k6

    Looking for size 27 needles for a 132k6 machine. Preferably a 10 pack as machine is used rarely. Any suppliers in US.
  9. I have acquired a Pfaff 3334 bartacker which works and is functional as a 28 stitch bar tacker. Has anyone and ideas about the parts required to switch it to the 42 stitch pattern.
  10. I appreciate all the advice - and this is a great resource for people who have a lot more experience on industrial sewing machines than me.
  11. I too read those instructions but have now been told by someone who installed the clamp in the 112w140 - that you simply need to shorten the needle bar. No modification to the rock frame was required. If that was the case I would be much more hesitant as the difference in cost on parts is 15 bucks for needle bar vs 115 bucks for a rock frame. As far as I can tell there are two needle bars that can be used on a 112w140 which have different part numbers. The original had a push in clamp which was secured with a set screw. The needle bar part I'm told now that is needed is Singer PN 267267 which is threaded on one end. And the total length with the clamp needs to be cut down to 17cm in length. The timing marks on the needle bar are useless because of the increased height of the clamp but it will work just fine at that length. Thanks for thoughts...
  12. So I've got one of the flip up needle clamps to install on my 112w140 and then noticed that the needle bar is not threaded to accept the new clamp. I know that I need to cut a needle bar down to accomodate the extra height of the needle clamp but anyone know of a needle bar with a threaded end which would could be used as a donor part.
  13. Thanks. Thats what I was trying to figure out and now I'm trying to work out what the parts I need. I guess that the part is missing as it there doesn't appear to be a big pin/rod although there is a hole through the machine just behind the tension unit which certainly looks like it would function as described.
  14. I've obtained a 112w140 sewing machine and trying to get it working byt the tensions disks do no appear to release when the presser foot is lifted. I can't find an exploded view of how this linkage works on this machine and think I maybe missing something. Can anyone share any more light about the parts or diagram of how this linkage works.