stormdevil

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About stormdevil

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  • Location
    Falkirk
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, archery

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  1. I'd rather rivet than hand stitch :-) It wasn't too bad once I had everything marked out.
  2. Here's my latest laser engraved offering - a vanity tray made for my daughter. Laser engraving done on an LS3020 desktop laser: http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=92 It's a hobby machine and not cheap - but my husband bought it for doing some wood work, so why wouldn't I take advantage of it :-) Dyed first with vinegaroon, then finished with Fiebings black oil dye mixed with irridescent medium (to give it some shine) Dragon painstakingly painted with Angelus leather paint (pewter)
  3. Hi Here's the final product. Well - actually two. I did a cartridge belt slider and a full belt. The slider was to make sure I had the spacing correct - (I did do a couple of loops on some scrap first so I was pretty sure, but didn't want to ruin the belt). Then I finished the belt. I went with military grade elastic webbing - which works well, and rivets.
  4. Hi Dikman It's for hunting. The guy I'm doing this for is a game-keeper. He'll be out stalking deer etc. PS I don't even know what Single Action is ;-)
  5. Hi I've been challenged to make a shotgun cartridge belt for a friend. I wanted to ask some questions of anyone who uses one. I've had a look at various pictures online, and have seen some quite nice belts. I've also seen some discussion on whether they are easy to use or not. So here go the questions: I don't have a machine for stitching, so was thinking of riveting the loops with brass rivets. Any thoughts whether that will be OK? I know you can make holes and loop the inner strip through them, but that probably needs a tool to make them nice and neat and even. Also I've seen in some forums discussion about how easy it is to get your cartidges in and out. One person had the loops done with elastic webbing, which seems quite a neat idea. I've seen some 2" military elastic webbing that would do the job. Any thoughts? How much bigger than waist size should I make it? I'm thinking about 6" with obviously some belt holes either side of that.
  6. Hi Sam Ok - more details: Laser is an LS3020 desktop laser: http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=92 It's a hobby machine and not cheap. My husband bought it for doing laser cutting / engraving on wood. Since we already have the machine, I've been experimenting with using it on leather. 1st attempt was OK, this is much better. You give the laser cutter your design (imported from Adobe illustrator or something similar), tell it how powerful you want the cuts and speed you want it to go, then let it get on with it. I'm using just about the lowest power and speed, otherwise it will burn right through the leather.
  7. Here's my second attempt at an ebook cover using the laser to engrave the leather. The front is 3mm thick leather, the back is 2mm. The pearlescent blue is angelus leather paint, on a Fiebings Royal blue background. The laser cutting is definitely getting better. I'm quite pleased with this one.
  8. Love the eagle :-) Your carving looks great.
  9. Yes - we have an extraction system. It doesn't smell badly when cutting leather, but it does smoke some which needs the extraction. I use the laser on pretty low power. The software is what comes with it. We use Adobe Illustrator for preparation but any vector graphic software would do - the AI files can be imported into the laser cutter software.
  10. I did try speeding it up by heating it (water bath with almost boiling water), and the window sill is room temperature, but it still took a couple of weeks to get to full strength.
  11. Ok - more details: Laser is an LS3020 desktop laser: http://hpclaser.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=92 It's a hobby machine. My husband bought it for doing laser cutting / engraving on wood. I knew it was possible to use on leather - this is my first time trying. I used the newly made vinegaroon all over - instructions as given here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73637-my-guide-to-the-best-vinegaroon-youve-ever-made/, but it took a lot longer to make than the thread suggests. I started it off in the garage, but at this time of year - it's cold, so I moved it into the kitchen. The thread says it reached full strength after a few days - try a couple of weeks! My second batch has been sitting on my kitchen windowsill for 3 weeks now, and from testing it's ready to use. I used the threads suggestion of neutralizing with bicarb of soda before dyeing the piece. That leaves gritty bits of bicarb all over, but I just washed it off. Applying the vinegaroon - I swabbed the neutralised solution on with a dauber - front and back - though I didn't need to do the back. The blue is Angelus pealescent paint - Pacific blue, applied after the vinegaroon.
  12. Here's a set of firsts: 1st time using the laser to engrave a design 1st time using vinegaroon to dye the leather black. I did end up going over part of it with oil based dye. I've still got some experimenting to do with the laser, the 2nd cut of the same design was better - but I've still to finish that one off.
  13. Arm Guards

    I like the bracers. I use eyelets on one side and hooks on the other - I find it easier to put on. Most bows you just need the arm guard to keep your clothing out of the way, but if you shoot an english longbow the bracing height is about 5 inches, so you get string slap and that's why you need a nice thick leather bracer :-)
  14. Here's a quiver and bracer I did recently. The hardest bit was doing the wolf head design, since I'm not much of an artist. I think it turned out OK.
  15. Here's the one I just made for myself. Shiny blue :-)