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About bondebond

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  1. That's ok. This is precisely the answer I was looking for oh so many years later. You guys are the best.
  2. I ALWAYS forget to take a lot of good "before" shots on all of my projects, but suffice it to say that it requires a complete paint job. I thought about just really getting it functioning well but the two layers of lead paint are flaking off left and right with handling. So...I'm neck deep in stripping it. The original lead based paint does NOT like to respond to modern chemical strippers (and I'm using the "harshest" kinds I can get my hands on - none of that earth-friendly stuff either). It does soften it up after the top layer of paint has been removed. It's just really slow going around all of those curves and crannies. I'm also using the heat gun and a wire wheel where appropriate. I will conquer. Eventually. The urethane belts is a great idea. For the flat belt that runs the grinder, the previous owner had a section of webbing folded over and stitched down the middle with a belt staple to make it a loop. It works but definitely needs replacing. Where do you get those? I did poke around Campbell Randall. Thanks for turning me onto that site. I found some parts to my new-to-me Consew 227 that I've looking to source somewhere. Thanks!
  3. I did go back and get it down to $75 so it is sitting in my shop. When I get to an actual computer, I'll try to post pictures. It does work but the belts need replacing due to age, along with rust removal, paint (lead) stripping and a host of other restoration work. But it is functional with a decent bell knife.
  4. Manual for Consew 227, the original

    Thanks. That at least gives me a source for a manual and know they exist. I'll search for something freely available but if all else fails, there's that. I appreciate it.
  5. I recently bought a 227 and am trying to find a manual for the original machine, not the 227-r2 that is so prevalent. The machine should arrive late next week but I know of some things I need to 1) replace and 2) read up on the operations as I suspect there are some key differences even though much of it will be the same as in the r2 manual. Also does anyone know if you can adjust the stitch length on the original? Thanks
  6. I hear you on the paperweight. I'm going to have to build a sturdier desk in that case. I will see about getting the rest of the pics off my phone so I can trim them to proper size. I've been out of town for a week on business and things are just now returning to normal.
  7. Greetings all. First time poster, long time lurker. So I'm early on in the stages of moving from hand crafting everything into using machines. And I'm still early, early in the craft. Thank you all for sharing your wisdom, experiences and opinions. That said, I ran across a tired, old Manufacturers Supplies Co. skiver yesterday at the local Habitat for Humanity store for $100. It calls to me. It would actually be a restoration project in and of itself. It has been repainted a time or two and the original paint is now flaking off. The included picture gives you an idea. It has a lot of surface rust from being stored in a self-storage unit for years. I know a little about its history as I talked to the self-storage facility's manager when I recently bought a Union Special 81200 carpet serger from him and saw this unit in the corner. I should have offered to haul it off for free for him, but didn't think about it at the time. Now, it's $100 at ReStore. I have only done a little bit of hand skiving and that is challenging of course. What I'm wondering is if this is something I'm going to kick myself in the future for not snagging now. I am a big fan of the American Restoration TV show and have no problem looking at something and seeing what it can become again. Most of everything is there but there are a few loose parts that I don't know if it is 100% so it's a gamble. The spring tension adjuster arm is just sitting on the table. It is missing one of the manufacturer plates but the only one attached is shown in the photo. It is made in Germany and seems like it is a 10A model but I don't know the difference between that and a 15A. Some questions are: what do you think is the likelihood of finding a bell knife and some of the presser feet would be? It only has the one presser foot that is attached. It seems like even from this age of machine, bell knives are a standard size and screw pattern. Is this a valid assumption? The current bell knife is pretty rusted and I'm not sure that the pitting can be overcome with careful sharpening. I know I would be taking a chance and that's part of the fun but if I can't find just those basic parts, this thing is going nowhere but the metal recycler. Thanks to someone else's previous post here, I was able to pull down the manual - thanks! Thoughts?