RockyAussie

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About RockyAussie

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Website URL
    https://wildharry.com.au/

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. Zipper installation multipurpose guide

    I will do that Wiz as best I can. I would be honoured to send you a range of the different sizes as soon as I can get them done. If you decide to get them done faster mention that the scale part in a program like Curra will allow you to make them as long as you want or short and wider as well for various width zips. I don't know with out checking if the piece is made wider for a number 5 zip if the gap from the stitch would be good or not. It may be fine. Your shop address alright to address to? That is a glue pot that I converted over from being a brush on style. If you want one H. Leffler and sons should have them. I have plenty of old brushes worn out here and I just break away the outer aluminium part that retains the brush and insert a brass tube that you can get at the hobby stores. I cut it to length and flare one end and force it into the hole. I then hammer around the top edge of the aluminium next to the brass tube to really tighten it into place. A little bit of an angle grind to the tip helps the spreading out. I keep the tip from drying out by keeping it covered by a bigger tube that I have the end squeezed shut on. The one in the picture is a bit of brake tubing. A bottle made up with a bolt inserted as shown helps to keep a swap over tip or brush ready to This pic shows the brake tube cover Another handy thing to store multiple brushes in thinners is a army food dish. As to the glue (NE - 1820) I buy it from a chemical company in Sydney (PCA Barham pty ltd) in 20 litter drums but your local shoe repairer should be of help. Its just a contact glue. Freight is a killer to get it here. Brian
  2. Bobbin holder case

    Thanks for that ......I think?? . Here is the results of the print out below. Note I mentioned there was a triangle thing hanging out which I was worried about, well I ignored it and it worked out alright. Those that are good at cleaning up this stuff please feel free to do so. I don't generally get these when I draw up and can'r remember the steps to get rid of it. It was faster for me to scape it off with a sharp knife. Clean up time on both pieces was about 1 minute if that. This first picture is as the stl files will give you without alterations and with bobbins installed ready to shoot. It works and spins well and the bobbins are easy enough to get out. I had a failure on my first print which for some reason the stepper motor on rare occasions jumps or misses a step and every thing thereafter keeps printing above on the wrong line. This next pic was that print and it failed about 10mm up Z. As the fill was set at 30% I changed the next 1 to 20% and slowed the print speed a little. Here I dropped the first print beside the new one once it was passed the same fail point and relaxed again. This pic shows how bad that triangle spike printed out. Not so bad. When things stuff up I sometimes think there's a reason and I think the failed print made me think of a top cover and I kind of like it and as well it shows if you print the axle piece longer you could place another on top if you wanted. This makes it easier to handle as well. If you are using the Curra program you can unlock the padlock in the scale section and just increase the Z height to make it as high as you want it. I had one off a different project and used it instead and that is why the top hole is not showing in this example. Showing the double up idea. Keep in mind that if you do the same scale trick in Curra to the Z height you could shorten the revolver part to make a better lid as well. As I said this can make the handling and revolving quite nice. Lastly now here are the stl files. Jeffs Bobbin Revolver1.stl Jeffs Bobbin Revolver2.stl Please post your results and versions here as well. Woops nearly forgot here a link to another progect you may find useful. Brian
  3. Zipper installation multipurpose guide

    Note: I will try and get a No5 chain nylon and metal guides done over the next couple of weeks. I got a lot of bags to catch up on first. Brian
  4. Zipper installation multipurpose guide

    With the purpose made guide It is inserted into the hole and marked around the edges onto the back as shown. The width is the same as the outer edges of the zip. This is shown on one of the line up cardboards that is used for lining up the clicker knife when cutting the inside slot hole but this is what is done on the leather backing prior to gluing in the zipper into place. With the new guide the leather can be lowered over the hole to attach or leather can be butted up to the guide on each side. I found that you can hold the unit in one hand and apply with the other but this was hard to photograph by myself so ...... If you are not needing to glue into place it can be done by most sewing machines by holding the guide up against the foot and feeding in the leather against the guide as it goes through. I did a wobble first try but once I learned how to hold it it went quite easily. Other side is easier still As shown below the guide hangs on quite well but can pull out when you want to easily as well. That's it for now except here is the stl file ZIP JIG3 chain ny.stl Please if you make it and use it.... post some pics on here for other to see. Brian
  5. Awhile back I was asked about what guides were available for installing zippers into handbags and the like. Over the years I have made a huge range of jigs and guides for various different products but I knew of no multi-purpose type tool that could do this job with out making up special tools like my line up table I've detailed somewhat previously on this forum. What I have come up with no doubt will be improved in time but for my first effort I can say that this guide has performed better than I expected and for those that would like to make copies for themselves I will attach the stl file needed here which you are welcome to use for your own private use. If you just want to buy the parts let me know but I would like to offer it to @Uwe for his rights to sell within the US (if he wants it). This is due to the fact that I admire his contribution and help to so many on this forum and is just my own way of thanking him from us all. Also he has now the equipment for making this stuff and his integrity to service and quality I would trust. For those that want to print it out I will attach some pictures as well. In this first pic it shows the orientation I recommend to print as it give good strength to the 1mm legs and it works pretty well. I decided on a 30% fill using pla. In this case the 3 pieces took about 17 minutes I think. Bit rough and would be better on my old thing a bit slower perhaps. This is what it looks like finished on the platform. Bit rough above the holes but they work strongly anyway. Each piece I cleaned up with a knife and some sandpaper on a flat surface. This takes about 2 minutes to do well each. Now showing after cleaned up and ready to try out. A few more printed and cleaned up and pressed down onto No3 YKK nylon chain zip. Once the guide is pressed on the lot can be handled well as a single unit to work on. In the picture above you can see another printed guide made specifically for that length zip to make the position on the back for gluing the zipper into place. These bags linings below were all done using that method I will show more of further down. This shows what is wrong with doing good quality work......toooooo many bags to make. Over 50 croc bags in this lot and probably near as many to follow next month. Sorry I went off subject there a bit. I will load this now and have a coffee and be back shortly.
  6. Bobbin holder case

    Hey Jeff ...you know that's off topic now in this forum? You gonna get us kicked back into the sewing machine section again as there is no wood work section that I've seen yet.. I been thinking about your drawing and the only thing that bothers me is the lack of seeing the colour clearly of me bobbins and with my bad shi memory I would not know where the hell I put that colour unless I painted beside the top or something like that. You being into holsters and guns and stuff I came up with this idea I have called Jeff's Bobbin Revolver The pic on the left shows both pieces assembled and able to revolve and the pic on the right ...blah blah. This pdf file below should open in a 3d way if you click on the picture when it opens. Unfortunately there is some little triangle thing you can see that I have to work out to remove maybe. I will give it a trial print tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I would have done it today but the printers been busy doing the new click together zip line up guide and more dam ring boxes. I'll post the zip stuff tomorrow as well in the sewing machine section first. They'll move it for me probably Jeffs Bobbin Revolver1.pdf Brian
  7. Bobbin holder case

    Filament quality and even different colours can give a lot of variable results so I tend to do mostly work with this silver colour and run it on the hot side. Keeping the room warm can help a lot with that also. I'd like a large Perspex box over the top but that's just another on the gotta do list.
  8. Bobbin holder case

    I thought about a lid but to be honest the cylinder machine that it will live with gets use every day and changing bobbins happens a lot so I thought it would just be a waste of time. with its flat base I don't think knocking it over is going to happen but I guess it could be stuck in place with double sided tape or something. Pla and a heated bed run at 65 degrees C. The plate is cleaned well with Isopropyl alcohol before every new print. Constabulary's idea looks good but I don't think the magnets should be needed at least if the 2 ends were blocked off. Might be a bit easier to knock over and lose them though. Yes ...that was my thinking as well and I suppose it should be there as well perhaps as a link or something.
  9. Bobbin holder case

    Not sure if this would be best in the 3D printer section or here but I thought I would share this bobbin rack case that I made up today. I have attached a stl file so it can be printed out if you like. I used a 20% fill with .8mm shell thickness settings on the printer. It uses 108 grams of filament at that and in Oz that's about $4.00 worth. It holds 49 bobbins and the L is 172mm x 125 W. The hole size for a bobbin is 12x23mm. BOBBIN CARRIER.stl 2mm thick base The hatch area is the gap area needed between bobbins to get your fingers onto each side of the bobbin to remove and replace easily. Works good .....I think I'll make one for the big Cowboy ones next. Am working on a snap together zip installation guide at the moment which all going well I will finish this week end. Cheers Brian
  10. Mallet Dies

    If your really stuck you could just make one.I have in the past made many with various pipe pieces like this one in the picture. I try and remove any seam bur inside the pipe a bit first then find a bit of metal the width I want the hole to end up in width. I squeeze the end in a big vice and hammer a bit until I get what I want. AS you get close to the oval put in the metal piece to help keep the width right and in shape. Sounds harder than it looks. Normally I find a bolt to fit in the top hole and hammer down on it.
  11. Cobra 4 presser foot leaving marks

    Stick the cardboard to the feet? just kidding......answer I think is just get wider feet under there.
  12. Cobra 4 presser foot leaving marks

    Is it possible to use the blanket foot set with the teeth ground down smooth on that job? I would hesitate before reducing the foot pressure spring too far as in my experience the small foot footprint is likely more the problem. On that sort of thickness you could run into the job lifting up with the needle if you reduce the pressure too much. Another alternative is to get a wider foot from kwokhing like in this pic of mine and grind the side bit off if you don't want that guide part of it. http://www.kwokhing.com/ It is right on the last page in their catalogue from memory. First pic shows small contact area of the standard feet 2nd pic shows the kwoking feet with about twice the amont of contact area The picture below shows most of the range but you can get a wider front foot for a bigger gap and that may be a better one to cut down. You may find some thing more about these feet in this post I did awhile ago. Brian
  13. My take on the Dopp Kit

    Very nice work there. I think you have done it well and in great time considering you hand stitched it. $150 would be a bargain for that sort of work and construction as a 1 off for sure.
  14. I've been using a couple of band knife splitters for many years and I doubt I could do my business without at least one. Keep in mind that they can pay for themselves fairly quickly if you offer the splitting service to others as well. My main belt competitor in Australia I have been splitting their belt backing and cutting the strips as well for many years now and I think I get more profit from that than making my own belts. They get around 1000 strips every 2 or 3 months and that normally takes me a couple of week ends to get done. Something to think about.
  15. I think those may be the Adler 69 type of which I have one here. They are pretty similar to the Pfaff 335 type. I prefer the smoothness of the Pfaff. I'll give you a call shortly.