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About RockyAussie

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. OK. I did it quite a few years ago and the pics above of Uwe's 145 may have made me think that the spring rested on the doo hicky. As long as it works,as it did for me that's the main thing.
  2. Although the thickness you want to sew can help, knowing the types of product would be better and how far your budget can go. There are just to many machines suitable for various applications and sometimes no one machine can do the job either. I regularly use 6 different types in my production and have many more not so useful past purchased ones in storage.Knowing as close as possible to what you are wanting to make and getting the right advice here can save a lot of $$$. Regards Brian.
  3. I think by raising it as I have done the outer spring has less tension on it and the inner spring then allows more of an adjustment. As I did this for wallet type work I would say if you wanted it to do heavier type work you would only take the sleeve up 1/4"(6mm).In the location I have this one the adjustment bolt does not feel to touch the inner spring until about 3/4 way down. As for my 335.... its staying in the sin bin.The Adler 69 as Uwe pointed out has a more logical adjustment system and I only every use that when I want to do thick bag handles and such. The 331 does most things just right, It's just a shame they stopped making them.
  4. It deserves it. It's got one foot tooo many for my liking..
  5. Here's the pics of the 335 with the sleeve pulled up about 3/8". This still allows the screw when wound down to come into play and have some meaning I guess. Note the sleeve is no longer visible from inside against the outer spring. Sorry the pics are not the best, it is quite dark down the back in that container.
  6. Just found a pic that shows the 331 and it's adjuster.
  7. I will try and take some pics tomorrow of a 335 I have put away in a storage container. From what I can see it looks as though I have lifted the as Uwe calls the extension up about 1/4 to 3/8" and run with that. From memory I think it required vice grips and ample swearing.My 331 has a far nicer set up (Like the modern one a bit) but inside of it there is a rod that when you screw the extension down it pushes the inner spring down. As I use very small feet and on light duty leathers I take that rod out thus making the inner spring do nothing. I gauge the tension by lifting the foot by hand first then adjusting the pressure until the job will just not lift when the needle pulls up.When I use heavy veg I put it back in.
  8. Well said!
  9. Thanks Bill, Here is a pic of a tote bag array that are all basically the same pattern but as you say make a wide variety of looks using different mediums and such.I hope as I get a bit more used to (confident) in this video making stuff to show a bit on how they are made etc.
  10. Thanks again. I hope to see your new bag as it develops. What sort of design are you wanting to do may I ask?
  11. Thanks for the nice compliment Stetson912. but I have to say that it takes an awful lot of hard work to make it look easy. Regards (and Respect) Brian.
  12. There can be quite a few reasons for having the flap as a separate piece. If the bag is fairly large skin cutting use can come into it. Many manufactures use clicker presses and getting a large cut can be difficult to cut through well. Often the front of the bag and the back can use the same size knife and the lid flap can then be this shape or that shape thereby getting for a lesser knife cost different bag designs.Also when a bag is lined it can be easier to apply the linings separately as the flap lining needs to be a bit shorter in length in order to not wrinkle up. Some bags make use of putting a pocket in the back and therefore needs to be separate.The bags I've made in the picture below all have back pockets on the outside.
  13. I have not had to deal with charred edges from a laser before. trying to sand clean inside those little thumb holes and such would be hard and time consuming I think. I would try using an edge coat thinned 10% first and see if the edge can be become stable enough to hold. In the video of this link you can see me applying edge coat to belts and I can assure you I have seen some of these belts many years after being made with the edging in good condition.
  14. I have a piece of steel rod made up to the same diameter with a pointed dome shape on the end to help push it through. I normally put in over night to help the leather to set in that shape.Sometimes a bit of powder is still necessary.
  15. Although the racks come in handy for repetitive work the application technique with the edging method I think should be useful on one off projects as well. I hate seeing people playing around with pencils and little brushes and such when I know a good finish must be applied quickly and evenly. If I do a single key tag it's pretty much the same technique. Regards Brian