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About RockyAussie

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. Singer Leather Sewing Machines

    Well that just Adlers my mind.....I'll be Pfaffed...Just Juki ng with ya. Ha Ha What is the Inverse necky on the side? Do they have an owl with its head facing backward as a logo?
  2. Piping question

    Sorry @Dunluce I misunderstood what you were trying to do. I thought you were trying to figger out how to get the piping to attach to the piping as I have done in this first picture of a back pack I made. As you see it goes all the way around on the front and gusset. What would look best is how the piping finishes short and the leather is turned in, as in this next picture following. Here you just tuck it in and keep stitching through to the end then trim it up inside.
  3. Looks like it may have been used for doing double row stitching on the uppers. I think it can be used as a single needle as well. An Addler I had could be either single or double needle used and some various widths as well.Here's one off the tube
  4. Band knife splitting machines?

    There is a huge difference in what can be done but whether the extra cost is warranted would depend on the type of leather work you want to do. For a lot of saddlery type work the fixed blades would normally suffice. For many of our products we produce we use 1mm leather split down to .4 or .5mm with often soft leathers and that I believe is not anywhere near possible with a fixed blade. Also band knife splitters have built in sharpening stones and take but a few seconds to sharpen now and again. Below are a few pics of typical pieces that go in my wallets but if you check my you tube channel some of these steps are shown better perhaps.
  5. Piping question

    If I understand this correctly.....What I do is start with the leather piping cover already skived and stuck in place and left in length over long. Start the stitching at least an inch from the end. When I have reached close to the other end I stop the stitch and take it away from the machine. I then cut the piping to the correct length and skive the end to match the meeting side and then finish my stitch on down. It is hard with some leathers to make it fully not be visible but picking the right place to start and finish helps.
  6. Personally I would think the chrome tan better for that job normally but if as you said you want a natural finish you will not get that sort of tan colour. It would be a sort of green/grey and probably last no time at all..
  7. Center Line On Edges

    Now will that me look like I'm loosing or gaining weight??
  8. Center Line On Edges

    Another thought if you don't like seeing a line as JLS said Just fold the edges instead I guess. That'll give you an exact colour match as well. I used to do all my watch bands that way once. The pictures below shows some ostrich ones I made once. The ones with the watch faces done had to be split down to .3mm and I did have a fairly high fail rate on that.
  9. Center Line On Edges

    I have used a cobblers hammer for many years and for the more delicate leathers that are easy to bruise I have glued onto the face of the hammer a piece of firm veg to further protect the job. I have got away so far using one glued on piece for about 5 years now and that is just attached with contact glue. The face of the hammer is about 38mm or 1+1/2"
  10. Singer 107w1 tension release rod

    I guess I will have to console myself with that at least it took you a while..........
  11. Singer 107w1 tension release rod

    WOW ......WOW ....I am in LOVE....What state are you in? I mean not horrified about having a stalker state ...What state of Australia? Was someone in the Singer repair business?
  12. Singer 107w1 tension release rod

    That is just beautiful Mizzy. It looks like you have a whole lot more exciting looking machines in the background waiting for their turn as well. How bout a wider view shot? I'm on the hook now...............
  13. 19th century Hugo Werteim shoe patcher

    I have an old 29k-13 here which has a hole in the main body very close to the size you have shown. Your showing around 22.48 and mine is 22.8 which could be wear as it has had a lot of use. It takes a very small bobbin about 16.3mm dia. The hook number for it is 8654 which as far as I can make out is the same as a 29k51. I have attached a pdf that may be of help if you dont have it already. 29K51_53_55_56.pdf29K51_53_55_56.pdf
  14. Singer 107w1 tension release rod

    With all this love and attention it's just gotta go well.
  15. Edge paint

    Some of those tips that @fredk has linked could be useful. What I have done for many years is use a 60 or 80 watt soldering iron as you can see mentioned and a picture of earlier in this post and with the supplied tips, the one that is screwdriver shaped I hammer it back a bit in a vice and groove it out. For temperature controlling it I have used a light dimmer switch housed into a wooden box as seen in the back of this picture below on the second shelf. Also note the extended workmate I made to help for ironing in belts and a different tip is useful for rounding in the belt tongue holes/crew punch holes etc.