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About RockyAussie

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  • Location
    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
  • Interested in learning about
    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. I've used open and closed and I have not had much problems with either. The product being made and what it does for for it is more the issue as to which to use. Open or closed come in a wide range of soft to hard ranges.What type of product are you wanting to pad. Brian
  2. I checked out one of these and I think the quick change is excellent and the overall quality looks good as well. I'm not sure about cutting spacers out of pvc pipe as the steel and aluminium ones I have made need to be lathe finished to size to get dead square and to the finish length as well. Holding pvc pipe in a lathe to cut would be hard to do because as the jaws tighten the pipe will distort. A sharp tip will cut in and upset the alignment and a blunt one will give an unreliable cut to size. Aside from those issues I would be concerned about how long they would hold up to wear and tear. With mine I have a heap of thin spacers for adding up to the sizes I want if needed. They go about 1/2mm,1mm,2mm and 3mm and so on.Metric or not it should not matter much. I am sure you will like that wide cut on that machine. Brian
  3. I just checked out a video on it and i think that should be a very handy machine. Having the guides adjustable that way will make different thicknesses a lot easier to do . Hope it all goes well for you. Brian
  4. Hi Matt S, I would love to give more time than I do but that's life I guess.The knurling does indeed help and generally every 3 or 4 years I have to refresh the knurl probably because they are only aluminium and fairly soft compared to stainless. The knurling tool was surprisingly inexpensive from the toy shop here, about $40.00 I think at the time.
  5. I made this machine quite awhile before my cad drawing days unfortunately but I will try and get you as much info as I can with regards to sizing and close up pics etc asap. As Bill rightly said I am flat out on some 300+hornback belt orders for a couple of more weeks to go to China and I cant be later than I already am. It is fairly simple but some decent welding ability is needed. The trickiest bit was working out how to make the wheels turn in toward each other but once I worked out to run an idling cog inside and used the back of the chain on the left wheel to drive it, it was easy. For the moment I will post a few still shots which may help a bit. The bucket and wheel on the right don't swing in and out but the right one does to allow adjustment for size widths and has a spring inside to allow to move in and out with tapers etc.The wheels were cut out of some 1" flat plate aluminium and some 1" round was set into that and welded on and then bored out to about 5/8" hole. Once the hole was done and the rods threaded it then was lathed and knurled. I will take a lot of pictures and measurements and try and put them together in as easy way to understand as I can. Thanks for the positive comments Regards Brian
  6. Just a word of caution, when removing or making a foot right or left be sure to leave a bit in the middle behind the needle and remove back more if needed. If you remove too much you will find the needle can want to climb up the side a bit and leave needle marks on the side. I made that mistake before. I took back one a bit too far for stitching the rope filled round handles and had a lot of trouble keeping it from climbing up the rope. Rope type handle in picture below and note the trimming happens after the stitching . Regards Brian
  7. Thanks Chuck .... I wouldn't say great but on the bright side I can only get better at it. Lets hope we get to see some other people sharing how they do it.
  8. Generally I have been able to get cheap standard feet and just grind them down until they suit the job I want it to do . Sometimes if I have to I just make them from scratch but that can take 3 hours or more sometimes. I don't know this machine type so some pics could help.
  9. In this short video I show part of the process of edging hornback crocodile belts with a machine I made for the job. It allows width of strips from 1/2" to 2" and thicknesses of strips up to 3/8". The thickness of the fluid edging can be adjusted thicker or thinner as required. Normally these type of belts get 2 pre coats and then sanded to smooth out the bumps and holes followed by another 2 or 3 coats and then some final hand edging is done where the machine sometimes can not get higher up on the bones. Normal leather belts generally only require 2 to 3 coats on this machine for a high level of finishing.There is a hand edging video as well on my you tube along with a few others. Here's the link -
  10. 30 minutes on a plain leather style maybe but not with Crocodile unfortunately.Next video will show some of the headaches of working with croc and how I go about getting them to thickness.
  11. I have only ever done 2 at a time myself laying down or the folding but with these women working together ....well you now how it is...
  12. I'm way under the hammer at the moment but will get you some close up pics and some basic measurements with in the fortnight. Brian
  13. Congratulations its a Boy Looks like he'll be walking reel soon. Ha ha
  14. Here is a video showing off a device I made for quickly laying down wallet card pockets and getting them straight and evenly spaced. It is also used for lining up and attaching the strips to be folded and sometimes for line marking and pre creasing leather and cardboards etc. In it you will also see how I have converted a hand folding machine over to a foot operated in order to give better control and speed. I hope to load a longer and more detailed version showing more of the steps of the making of these wallets sometime soon. If you care to subscribe to my You Tube channel or follow me on LW here you will get notifications as new ones come up.Hope they help and please comment. Brian