RockyAussie

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About RockyAussie

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    https://wildharry.com.au/

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    Rockhampton Queensland Australia
  • Interests
    improving skills

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saltwater crocodile leathergoods
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    developing metal accessories for leatherwork
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  1. Making straps for shoes

    Strap could end up a bit less than 3/8" but that may be ok. I assume you would try and use the the full 2.5oz kid without splitting or skiving so watch the tape and your lining is not too thick.
  2. Tension

    Sure does. Slippery threads need more holes and rougher threads need less and a bit likewise with your thickness at times. Most cases you can get away just using 2 on the second point instead of 3. The top I would try and use them both.Brian
  3. Making straps for shoes

    Here is an earlier topic that shows a bit on the folder subject . http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73224-leather-strap-folding-machine/ Here is a very nice folder that is pretty much the bees knees if ya got the bickies.https://campbell-randall.com/product/model-star-3000 With regards to the elastic You should find examples in dance shoes and in particular ballroom dance shoes for women. Some have just fed the buckle tongue right through the elastic and attached to the shoe upper and some have a leather strip through the buckle and sandwich the elastic between that piece then stitch the elastic to the upper. From memory the elastic unstretched is about 1/2 to 3/4" long. The backseam tape is usually very thin if I remember but neither above is in the width you want. I checked the site and could not find any in the right width for making a 10 mm (3/8") strap. You would be needing a 9mm tape if you were doing a normal folded strap so I had a quick look on the net and found this http://www.textilesleon.com/en/catalogue/adhesive-and-reinforcement-tapes/ Half way down the first page you should see a range of colours at 9mm wide. Sorry I cant help much more at the moment as I am drowning in Christmas orders. Brian
  4. Making straps for shoes

    By folded I mean that the strap folds in from the edges to the middle. Old trick is to make over long to start and put a tack in the end after it has been glued up fully. Carefully with index finger and thumb whilst holding the other end you can get slide them down the strap and close it up. It does take some practice and a folder is generally less of a frustration. For higher quality a tape around 8mm in this case is attached in before or during the folding.Not sure where you would get the tape where you are but over here shoe repair suppliers normally have them. ( square buckles are kinder to the leather wear than the rounded shape ones). Also elastic in the strap that holds the buckle can help with wear as it allows the strap to expand and contract with out over stretching the attachment. Brian
  5. Inline Cowboy presser feet on Cowboy CB4500

    Did you get a Manuel???? The diagrams and descriptions would make it a lot easier to understand and I would think best to understand what to adjust and why before adjusting something wrong and end up not knowing how to get back. Here is a video that may help but I would be reading and understanding the Manuel as well.
  6. Making straps for shoes

    I am thinking that the thickness of your straps is a bit thin for that method but I don't know your lining thickness so cant be sure. I mostly only used folded straps when I made them and then lined them in with about 2oz. If you are not using a clicker press knife it will be easier to make the top strap up to width first then attach to a lining that is cut wider (about 1/8" all around then carefully trim up to that after attaching and stitching. A small pair of sharp scissors works well for this also. This is the same procedure whether the strap is folded or not. Trying to cut through both pieces together on a 1/4" to 3/8" strap will be very difficult to get it to stay where you want it while cutting. Most straps tend to break where they go through the buckle in time. Brian
  7. Tension

    I have to ask...have you used this machine before or is all new at the moment? If you have nothing to compare it with it would be very hard without pictures and perhaps even a video to determine what you may think is too much clicking or twanging etc. The needle can often move or deflect some when you pull the thread through the needle as there is generally some tension other than the tension discs on the thread. I can see by your past thread path that you would have a bit of tension and especially with a size 20 thread. If you have not used this machine before at this point I would have to suggest that you check out another similar machine to see how it sounds and performs if that is a possible. Brian.
  8. G'Day from Australia

    Welcome fellow Aussie. Plenty of good help down that way and great suppliers right on your doorstep. Brian
  9. Tension

    I think here is your answer. You are not getting enough tension at the top when you are sewing as seen in your example pictures. Your tension discs as shown in the pictures are nearly completely loosened off but that may be not as you have tried at the time of your example pictures. You replaced recently the tension disc assembly and I am thinking that the rod that Wiz is referring to has gotten jammed and is now not sliding back as it should when the feet are down and in the sewing position. This is likely stopping the tension discs from fully closing.Check this by looking for the tension discs opening and closing when you lift the feet up high. If they do not appear to open and close easily this is the problem unless you've lost the rod altogether. Not likely or you would at least have tension coming to the top. It may just need degunking and an oiling. Brian
  10. That will explain why I have been able to use either size in mine... it does not have an ejector spring in it. I had not seen an ejector spring in the Juki or Cowboy parts lists so I just didn't know they should have one. I guess I never get up any sort of serious speed with mine so as long as it keeps on stitching good for now I will keep it in mind if I ever need to get it up a bit faster. Thanks Wiz
  11. There are a few very knowledgeable sewing machine people on this site and experience has shown that they tend to give their advise back more so, when the questions are asked in the Leather Sewing machines section. I would repost it there and see how you go. I have a 441 clone but it can take either long or short bobbins. Brian
  12. IF you happen to lift the foot and the tension discs release (early?) it can happen that the thread tension return spring can come into play and pull the thread up. Personally I have found no problems with keeping the tension tight while lifting the foot and turning. In the past I did. Brian
  13. This sounds like a promising potential solution. If you are lifting the foot when turning the corner I would be tempted to also check that the rod that opens the tension discs is operating as you would like. I have often shortened mine (on other machines) to give me more room not to loose tension when I am lifting the foot. I reckon my foot just cant always lift the foot just that little safe bit to turn so I'm just going to cheat a little bit. Brian
  14. Working with Saffiano Leather

    The edge coat method would alleviate quite a few of the folding issues I'd say but to do well will take longer. As long as they are happy to pay ...$$. and the bigger the challenge, the better your skills will be the reward at the end. Hey...did I say that...? I do wonder just how many of us do charge enough for this type of work??? Sometimes I charge thousands and not really want the work and they just keep happily coming on back and sometimes to the bone $ and they still want to bargain for less... Still I keep learning.
  15. Working with Saffiano Leather

    That's not so bad.....a little bit of strategic padding and stiffener before lining and I'd say you'd have it about right. Brian